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Showing most liked content on 01/10/2017 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    I am doing up a more detailed coverage of this for the ICMJ, but I want to post at least a little on this here: I've gotten several contacts in the last month from folks who have bought claims through ebay or by other means over the internet. These are people who don't know much of anything about mining or claims or anything else. They make old weird beard on Gold Rush look like a know-it-all mining genius. They ask me for help in recovering the millions and millions of $$$$$$$$ they just know are on their claim. I've also been contacted by folks who have filed legitimate claims and had encounters with these folks who stake over their valid claims to sell them to the inexperienced. Now don't get me wrong, it is totally legitimate to stake and then sell a mining claim. it's totally legal to stake a claim with the idea that you might sell or lease the claim to another person. No problem there. The problem is mis-leading your buyers with things that just really are not true. Leading your buyer to believe there is valuable ore on the claim when you have no sample data to show that is simply fraud. What they sell is more like a dream than a business - the buyer thinks something like: ooooh! Owning my own mining claim sounds so dreamy.... Those of us who have been doing this for a while are less dreamy eyed and more practical about it. I know most of the guys who regularly post have a reasonable level of experience. I post this to the new guys and those who lurk here to learn. Here are my iron clad rules about buying mining claims that you should always follow: 1. Take everything the seller says with a giant grain of salt - they want to make a sale and will tell you what you want to hear. Let the buyer beware! 2. Never buy a claim until you have the skills to go out and sample the claim and evaluate it for yourself. Until you have those skills, you have no business trying to buy a claim. 3. Never consider buying a claim until you have the knowledge needed to go out and stake your own claim independently and maintain it with the government in good standing. You will need this information to determine if the claim you are buying is valid or not. 4. Never, never buy a claim without first inspecting it on site and in person, and performing a full property evaluation for yourself as noted in No. 2 above. Buying a claim is a business decision and should be made like a business decision, not made as a daydream to seek and hope for something good.
  2. 12 points
    Thought I would share my first hunt for the alluvious , with a break in the weather, I headed out early Sunday to an old patch , confidence high for the new year. Was looking for to trying out some different settings ( JP's advice ?) . Well I had found some bits there before but after about a ten hour session had been SKUNKED ?. JP's settings had worked though I managed to find a pocket full of old shot gun pellets. Set up camp , as I pondered on the day's events under a awesome bright three quarter moon, couldn't help thinking need a change of plan . The next morning up early coffee and of to another patch, well I was confident as still had settings close to those advised by Master JP ?Ten minutes and then I got my first mellow signal a nugget I thought, was excited ? Scraped about 2" off and checked target moved , after sorting out found a JW special .12 of gram ? First gold of 17 yeah . Had a break, back to it , about 20mins later had a faint repeatable signal , was fairly broad, might be GN , I took a scrape and signal improved , then started to dig , down 1foot still in the hole ?Sweet I was on to something ? 10mins later and a large hole approx between 1.5 to 2feet deep signal was out,so was I of breath and hot as ! Was a nice 14.8gramer?. I then got my breath back and backfilled the huge hole ? Continued to proceed toward some more open ground about 300 meters away where a mate had found a couple of peaces . Blow me down was there for 3 minutes and was on a target, different signal mellow but broken , like wire . Turned out to be a little specie .By this time I was out of water in me camel back and it was starting to hot and clouds building , making detectin a bit difficult due to noise. Called it a day and made tracks for home , happy for the first outing of the year ?. I would just like thanks to all that have been posting settings and GB control as has been interesting to read and apply. To those who doubt it makes much difference, the only thing I regret was not having a camera to take a picture of the depth of the hole in hot ground where I got the 14.8 grammar ,with just about JP's settings ?Thanks mate! Best luck to all for coming year, Squizz
  3. 9 points
    I would add to the above that if you lack the mentioned expertise - hire a qualified person that does. Best insurance money you will ever spend! There are companies that will file all the appropriate paperwork each year, etc. I filed my own paperwork for decades and still managed to screw it up finally so even people that think they know how can get caught. Arizona has a page on mining scams at http://www.azgs.az.gov/mining_scams.shtml More from http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/mine_fs/investig.pdf (on Alaska mining claims but similar issues apply elsewhere): ASK THE SELLER: 1. Is the claim State or Federal? What is the claim name and number? If it is a state claim ask for the ADL (Alaska Division of Lands) number. This is the identifying number for state records regarding the claim, and will help you research claim history, status, staking and maintenance. 2. Who is the owner of record? Claims can have more than one owner. In such cases, remember if only the interest of one owner is being transferred, you will be a partner with other owners of record. 3. Ask for a recorded copy of the claim location certificate. A recorded copy of the claim location certificate will have on it the Recording District Office stamp, date of recording, and document number or book and page number. 4. Whether Annual Labor or assessment work has been accomplished on a continuing basis; was acceptable; and has been properly recorded and filed according to State or Federal regulations. (NOTE: Again, regulations vary considerably here! Detailed information can be obtained by contacting the appropriate information source for State and Federal claims.) ***Be careful of claims offered for sale after September 1. This is the end of the annual labor year on both State and Federal claims. Assessment work must have been accomplished for any specific year prior to that date and recorded no later than November 30th for the State claims and December 30th for Federal claims. Have the seller show you a properly recorded affidavit. 5. Whether the claim is in conflict with other mineral locations. Claim conflicts do occur and often end up in court when the parties involved cannot resolve the problem themselves. You should verify the answers to the above questions through your own research or by engaging a professional agent to help guide you through the claim purchase. Other factors can enter into claim validity – factors that are often challenged in a court of law, especially if claim conflicts exist. These may include: 1. Whether the claim was located following the guidelines of appropriate State or Federal regulations, including: • Whether a “discovery” of a locatable mineral actually took place. The seller should be able to prove what type of discovery took place, i.e. geochemical sampling, panning, or drilling. If a visit to the location is possible, obtain permission to do your own sampling. • Whether the claim was actually staked in the field. Were posts or monuments erected and notice posted according to law? Or, was the claim “paper-staked”? • Whether the claim was properly recorded within 45 days of the date of staking in the District Recorder’s Office where it was located. 2. Whether annual labor has been done and properly recorded. Errors in the “essential facts” required on the annual labor affidavit are grounds for abandonment of the claim. 3. Whether annual rental has been paid in a timely manner. On State mining claims the rental year begins at noon on September 1 and ends at noon on September 1 of the following year. Payments must be received no later than November 30 of the same year. The penalty for failure to make a timely payment is abandonment of the location. See the Annual Rental Fact Sheet available on the Mining Section web page or at the Public Information Centers in Anchorage or Fairbanks. • NOTE: A word of caution, if the staking date of a mining claim on State land is prior to September 1 of a particular year, two annual rental payments will be required during that first year. The first is due no later than 45 days after the staking date of the location, and the second, no later than November 30. As a buyer, there are other important concerns you should be aware of or have clarified before taking the big plunge of investing: 1. Is the seller legitimate and reputable? What is their mining, prospecting, or geological background? How can it be verified? 2. Have any valuable minerals ever been produced or found on the land? Historical and geological reports on most areas in the State are available through the State Division of Geological and Geophysical Survey or the U.S. Geological Survey. The USGS maintains the Alaska Resource Data Files (ARDF) at http://ardf.wr.usgs.gov/. The ARDF files contain descriptions of many of the mineral occurrences in Alaska, and are a good quick reference. 3. Can the seller produce proof that he has operated on the claim? Depending on the type of equipment used, permits are normally required before any type of mining operation can begin. Operators who have submitted Applications for Permits to Mine in Alaska (APMAs) for intended mining activity involving mechanized equipment can be confirmed through a State Division of Mining, Land and Water Permitting Office. 4. Be aware of what rights you have with a mining claim! A common misconception is that the buyer is actually buying the land. This is not true, unless the mining property has been patented under Federal law and the owner has title to the land. (Patents are not issued under State mining laws.) Without a patent, the seller is only transferring their interest in the mineral rights to you. Ownership of the land remains with the State, Federal, or local government. As a claim owner, you have the right to possession and extraction of the minerals; but: a. You may not use a mining claim for purposes other than mining. Incompatible uses include residential use, placing any surface improvement on the claim without written approval; and use of the claim to pursue recreational or business interests such as hunting, fishing, trapping, guiding, or outfitting. b. You may not restrict public access without written approval from the land manager. c. If a third party has interest in the surface estate of a state mining claim, such as a grazing lease or surface ownership by a borough, you are required to reimburse the lessee or surface owner for damages caused by your use of the location for mining. 5. Is the claim compatible with the type of mining you intend to do? For example, if you intend to conduct suction dredging activities and the claim is located on a salmon spawning stream, be aware of the time frame restrictions as to when dredging can take place – generally from May 15 to July 15 annually. Note that on federal lands (federal mining claims), suction dredging is authorized at the discretion of the Authorized Officer. 6. Access – Are you familiar with the claim’s general location? Is there reasonably accessible? If travel “cross country” is involved, check land status along the route. Native corporation land, parks, refuges, stream crossings, area plans, type of equipment, time frame for intended travel, restrictive right-of-ways, etc., are potential problem areas. Charter flights to a “fly-in” only area can be expensive. 7. Water Rights – Are existing water rights associated with the claim? Water rights are registered with the State of Alaska and a certificate issued by the State’s Department of Natural Resources, Division of Mining, and Land & Water. Will they be transferred as part of the purchase? What is the availability of water in that particular stream during the course of a mining season? 8. What permitting requirements are there for mining activities, including transportation of equipment; exploration; or actual mining, in Alaska? It’s important to know any such activity must be fully permitted before “start-up” can begin. 9. Can mining even be conducted on your claim? In recent years, lawsuits against the State and Federal governments have restricted or stopped mining activity altogether in certain areas.
  4. 6 points
    North Fork of Cosumnes River, El Dorado County 2 hrs. ago 1 pic at Gold Beach 2nd Pic Sand Ridge Bridge
  5. 4 points
    I have one of these that I don't really use but the concept is solid. http://treasureproducts.com/vibraphone.html It works but it has been made for mounting on a tube when it should be some other type of mount. I used it briefly with my 5000 by using a splitter for the phone jack. (You can also use it instead of headphones but this was going to take a learning curve ... especially on the faint targets!) One had headphones and the other this vibraphone. It does work. It says on the advertising it doesn't work on Minelabs but I had no problem. It sits in my box for further testing one day. Why? Well ... it does convert the target energy into vibrations that can be felt rather than heard. What I discovered was that my sense of vibration was not as sensitive as my sense of sound (even with some frequency gaps). That is my personal choice to abandon use of it but for someone with very limited or no hearing (or if I lost my hearing) I would use this in a minute. When I bought mine I chatted with the manufacturer and I don't really know why it is not a more widely used product. Mitchel PS Check out the other products. I've considered one of the pointers in the past but haven't gotten one.
  6. 4 points
    I see a fella took advantage of the opportunity to wash his tractor. Why didn't I think of that?
  7. 3 points
    I got into this Sport by watching videos on Youtube...Thanks Zaqqazz22 for coming across my screen 9 years ago w/ a 6oz. "Sunbaker" that got me going...Anyhoo if you like to watch videos and you need some other tips ? I just found this on youtube tonite rightnow and watched 4 of the videos.....because I have a gpx and am always wanting to learn! heres the link... I will say however that i "ve never seen "anyone" w/only 30 subscribers ,,put up 17 videos including Minelab GPX series training all in "Only 3 weeks outa the gate and "Never say a single word! "Bizzare makes you wonder "who's really behind the vids?? Could it be detecting season in OZ......maybe the sticker is a Clue! LOL I learned something and seen alot nice pieces....Happy New Years from Idaho
  8. 3 points
    Hi all from my limited experience l would have to say most of the quiet faint signals have mainly been slight variations in the threshold response rather than the audio response. However there is usually a fair amount of what l would call spurious detector noise going on at the same time but l was able to pick out the slight threshold variation amongst the spurious noise. It is this background spurious noise that would render lights and or vibrations unusable because mostly the quiet threshold breaks are quiter than the spurious noise but are disernable to the ear. If you are strugling to hear the threshold breaks because your hearing. I would suggest getting a set of earphones with individual volume and tone control for each ear as like our eyesight we usually have better sight out of one eye than the other and the same applies to hearing one side hears better than the other and it is that imbalance that affects what we hear and what we don't. So by adjusting the individual volume controls to ensure our hearing is equally balanced will enhance you ability to distinguish the faint threshold breaks. Balancing out your hearing is better than blasting out you hearing by using too much volume to compensate. Use tones that are comfortable to your hearing.
  9. 2 points
    I couldn’t find a wireless delay specification for the GPZ 7000 WM 12. So I tested it. The attached oscilloscope display is the audio waveform envelopes from a US nickel passing over the GPZ-19 coil at approximately 40 inches per/sec. The upper yellow waveform is from the earphone jack on the back of the GPZ 7000. The lower green waveform is from the earphone jack of the wireless WM 12 receiver. The waveforms are sweeping in time from the left side to the right side. The entire display is divided into 10 horizontal increments of 50 milliseconds (0.050 sec.) each. The audio (wah-wee sound) created by the nickel is spread across 9 divisions (450 milliseconds) with the nickel crossing the center of the coil at approximately 4.5 divisions (225 milliseconds). Close measurement of the green trace displacement to the right indicates that the wireless WM 12 receiver audio is delayed by 20 milliseconds. The nickel speed of 40 inches per second is equal to 1 second divided by 40 = 0.025 sec. = 25 milliseconds to move 1 inch. So a delay of 20 milliseconds is less than a 1 inch position error which would be imperceptible during normal searching. When slowed down to pinpointing speed it would be a minuscule error. A 50 ms delay would result in an approximate 2 inch position error which at sweep speed is probably not that noticeable to most of us. Again at pinpointing speed it should not be a problem. For information; the scattered positive and negative spikes are noise spikes from the GPZ 7000 transmitter pulses. The wide bandwidth / fidelity of the oscilloscope allow it to capture these spikes. The spikes are too high in frequency for the human ear to hear. Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) that we randomly hear resembles the waveform envelopes shown in this display. This is somewhat technical so I hope I have made it understandable to some. Have a good day, Chet
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    Remember back in 2014 when that massive five pound gold nugget was found in California - the Butte Nugget? At the time what detector it was found with was shrouded in mystery. Maybe the detector model was revealed at a later date and I just missed it. Regardless, this issue of Discover just cleared the mystery up....
  12. 2 points
    UP RR tracks near Clio on C road, a few miles from Graeagle.
  13. 2 points
    River has stabilized now. The roads are a little nessy now.
  14. 2 points
    Mokelumne River at Big Bar on the Amador/Calaveras County Line
  15. 2 points
    Just my 2 cents worth. Those bastards you talked about are out there waiting for you. It took me about an hour to get into buying the claim and 4 months getting out of and getting my money back from the claim. Usually once the flim flam men get your money they are gone. Luckily I had used a credit card and after 27 pages of documentation and 3 months of waiting, the credit company did a charge back against this guys account. That didn't of course pay for my 4 trips to county offices and 3 trips to the BLM office in Sacramento or all the paperwork and fees for the non existent claim. So, if you're still interested, Steve and Chris have some great advice when it comes to claims. As for myself I'll join a club that has some viable claims.
  16. 2 points
    went to Dvllefrom Sierra City today river down 5' from a few hours ago...dvlle had recorded 12"+for 20 hrs. High water line on my claims below Goodyears was within one foot of 97 level where my equipment is stored. NYUBA ripped! Ausome Allen
  17. 2 points
    There is still lots of good open ground where you can file or pay to have a claim filed for you, its still out there. First learn to use a Pan, use a shovel, and sample many places, the more the better. Dig down a few layers to bedrock if possible and sample again. There are open areas where the old timers came thru and removed all the fine gold, screening off the nuggets for us :) Down side is a few passes by a good detector operator and most of the gold is gone so you should begin checking for fine gold first! Use your shovel and pan until you find a good pay layer then Drywashers, Recirculators, or a Sluce if your near a stream will be the tools of choice, Dig and run a 3x3x3 foot area, weigh up the results and good Luck.
  18. 2 points
    All great advice... unfortunately once someone gets the dream in their head they often refuse to be rational. That is what keeps the flimflam bastards in business. fred
  19. 2 points
    Blood, sweat, tears and a million dig holes! I, remember many of them. It's the hunt for them and the sweet sound in my headphones, that I cherish! Until the next hunt...when ever this rain ends? LuckyLundy
  20. 1 point
    Out of boredom and while cleaning up around the garage I decided to re make my pac vac using my old blower ang an old back pack weed sprayer, hope it works out better than carrying the 5 gallon bucket...already was great for wasting a couple hours.
  21. 1 point
    A Park Selection Primer for the aspiring Jewelry Detectorist – My Method Image: Urban prospecting for refined gold The jewelry detectorist is a different breed. They tend to like a challenge, a challenge to both their selves and their skills. The jewelry detectorist may also be creative, a bit stubborn, and generally think outside the box due to the elusive nature of their quarry. Certainly they have little fear of work. Compared to the average butterfly, the jewelry detectorist accepts more digging and more trash as part of the game and they often enjoy it. When a choice patch is discovered they will happily work the same park for many years by working smartly in layers. Some patches might even merit a more serious approach; dig it all to get it all – nails and up get it all! Nobody except avid historic relic hunters tend to get so extreme on a site. There is no doubt many other detectorists find jewelry, but to the jewelry detectorist that targets gold jewelry those other detectorist’s recoveries are quite often incidental in their searches and they tend to fall mostly into the large and/or high conductive range. One can verify this by (assuming the reports are truthful) looking at hundreds of annual “Best finds of the year” and “Wrap-up Annual Totals” type forum posts on any metal detecting forum – heavy on the silver; light on gold. An avid gold jewelry detectorist often targets only the low to upper middle conductivity and will find gold items regularly and lesser valued “trash” jewelry almost every trip to a patch in working progress. This primer is meant to address jewelry hunting in general and gold jewelry hunting specifically and how I’ve discovered to locate patches time and again. The intent is to help any detectorist find more gold jewelry by placing them into a “patch”. I liken it to one more piece to the Au puzzle. (Credit to Mr. Mike Hillis for inspiring me to write something hobby related and introducing to me through his writing, the term ‘patch’, which I’m adopting. Thank you.) Image 1: 14K designer wedding band recovered from a city park. Let’s get to it then. Assumption one – Generally the more quantity of jewelry a site holds the more gold that site also tends to hold. Assumption two – Gold can be found anywhere but it tends to be found more frequently in certain locations and conditions. Just like people gold is predictable, and just like people gold can surprise you. Assumption three – Adults lose the most and most valuable gold. Follow where they play, entertain, socialize. Follow the money. I also use a simple 5 stars or 5 point rating system on parks. Each factor that positively applies to a park equals one point. At 3 points a half point scheme kicks in and allows some wiggle room when filtering the best from the best. A half point is generally reserved for multiple features, special features, community events, etc. This rating system is meant to assist in field time management. In selecting a site in search of gold jewelry there are several factors that contribute to specific sites being better prospects for gold than others. These “better” parks possess several of the factors and features that positively contribute to increased loss thus increased productivity. The scope of this work will be limited in the main to those contributing factors that make one park better than another. Features within a park will be considered outside the scope of this work except when related. The four primary factors in summary: U.T.H.H. 1. Usage – All the various kinds of use currently allowed and permitted in a given park. 2. Topography – All the facts about the park’s property- size, type, elevation, grade, vegetation, layout, etc. 3. Habitat – The physical surroundings immediately adjacent to the park. This can include the perimeter of a park property. 4. History – all the past details of a park prior to establishment to present. This builds a park profile to assist in detection strategy. Usage - The current usage and allowed activities in any park is the primary consideration. The more opportunities a park has for strenuous physical exercise and/or athletic contact between groups of people the better. Parks that support large open fields favored for athletics often double as community event locations. Pay attention to your local event calendars to increase the chances of finding a prime site. A new use of parks I’m seeing more communities adopt is the summer outdoor viewing of a featured “Movie in the park” on Friday or Saturday nights complete with vendors. These events are perfect for losing stuff in the dark. Another common event in parks in my area are those community fundraising “After Five” events with live bands, alcohol, and lots of people overdressed and milling about. Often they are so packed people stand shoulder to shoulder rubbing and bumping even when not dancing. The more varied uses a park sees the better the prospects for gold. Topography -The type of terrain in a park is important. For turf hunting at least, gold tends to be found in the flats more than the hills. The land’s grade is important. Nobody is playing team sports in the hills. Large groups of people do not usually congregate in the hills either, and have less incentive to do so in the woods. Focus primarily on flat open terrain. One exception to this: hilly parks with trees and disc golf courses - gold could literally be anywhere on a disc golf course. Also, don’t get too hung up on total park size. While a large park is great for accommodating large crowds for events, many smaller parks are often better prospects when they contain a greater percentage of level open surface areas. In discussing city parks I consider small parks to be 10 acres or less. Parks around 60+ acres I consider large. Habitat – If a park were a living organism then the surrounding community is the natural habitat. In locations with few public parks the surrounding habitat becomes a more important aspect of site selection. There are certain surrounding features that positively impact a park. Any school or church that shares a property boundary with a park is notable. Any apartments, condos, or townhomes sharing a boundary with a park is notable. Single family homes sharing a property boundary are more common and are less notable than the other types of surrounding habitat except for county parks and rest-stop parks. Don’t discount the remote county parks completely though. Keep in mind the first two factors when evaluating them as a potential prospect. Other things we want to consider in our evaluation of surrounding habitat include adjacent streets, off-street parking, ease of pedestrian access, demographics, population density, and proximity of other parks, or park density. Find a park that rates highly in these aspects and one might more easily forgive a deficiency in factor one or two. History - It’s important to know as much history on a park as possible. The age, past use, past detecting pressure, current use, current detecting pressure and any historic images and maps all interest us in evaluating a park’s best potential to hold gold. Some history must be inferred, such as detecting pressure, but these days many county governments and city Park and Recreation departments list all the other facts online. In my area select parks are even provided good historical information with images and descriptions of past use. Don’t put too much weight on age of a park. The reason being is that it is possible when a park has the best of the first three factors that a 10, or even 5 year old park in the suburbs will produce more gold than a 60, or even a 100 year old park elsewhere. You gold-a think outside the box! Example Search: I have visited St. Louis for events but never been detecting there. I’ve never visited a park in St. Louis other than the Zoo. I randomly chose a city to illustrate a typical search and actually located a very promising park for anyone in the area. I’d be working it regularly if I lived within 5 miles and it was not prohibited. Image 2: Tilles Park, St. Louis potential area of interest Using Google maps I examine the city first with the map view for likely prospects. A typical search would be entered into the map search bar as: St. Louis school, or St. Louis church. These are not the only parks under consideration, but the locations of these indicators hold a promise of greater success. I generally start from the Downtown area and work outwards in pie segments looking for green shaded parks. Nearby large bodies of water always interest me so I’ll give those areas extra attention. Continuing outwards working in pie segments we note park density, park sizes, and adjacent streets and structures as the initial focus. Major roads that run along a park boundary are notable. Once a promising prospect is located I’ll switch to satellite view and zoom in, examining first images of the park itself looking for clues to the current use, and then the surrounding habitat, structures, and streets afterwards. Just this simple browsing of parks in Google Maps is a huge asset in quickly locating the best potential sites if you use a formula. With this single tool one can quickly cut out a lot of lesser quality parks with occasional random drops and hone in on the likely patches with regular or frequent drops. Image 3: Tilles Park, St. Louis aerial showing a two park comparison. Quickly my eye was drawn by the moderate size of the park, a major road, the dense single family homes, and preliminary usage estimates I infer from experience. I liked the size and especially the two larger streets adjoining the park, Hampton Ave. and Fyler Ave. The nearest park seems to be around a mile away which is close but not too close considering the density of housing. There is a lot of single-family homes between them. Zooming in a bit closer, the positive surrounding features I immediately notice (in addition to the housing densely packed on 3 sides) - two residential streets terminating at the park boundary. That’s a history flag! At this point I strongly suspect this park has some age and the land was used for something else in the relatively recent past. This park warrants a closer inspection and historical research but at this point I wouldn’t rate it any higher than a 3 at best. It has good potential but further research is needed. Image 4: Tilles Park, St. Louis showing an arieal in map view. The Parks department’s website gives an overview. Ordinance Year: 1957 Size: 29.00 Acres. It also lists basketball courts, racquetball Courts, tennis courts, 3 softball fields, one baseball field, a soccer field, a pavilion, a playground, and a skate hockey rink. Outstanding! Features in multiples and a few unique features earn one more point! We’re now a 4 star prospect and I’ve never been there. Image 5: Tilles Park, St. Louis topography map showing elevation Another site like Historic Aerials will assist with confirmation on topography ID and possible past uses. Unfortunately it only goes back to 1958 in St. Louis, but we still can glean information that can inform our actual hunting strategy. Image 6a and 6b: Tilles Park, St. Louis aerial showing park feature history A couple out buildings have been lost near the main structure prior to 1971 (red), and the pavilion had been established by 1958 (green).The park’s vegetation looks stark in 1958. Cycling through the available years trees don’t show up with any size until around the mid-1990. That’s about 40 years of wide-open park land, which means the whole park has good potential to be a nice patch. The walking paths have not been altered. Another important note is the streets have not been widened as of 1996, so plan to extend your coil all the way to the parking. So far I’d have to rate this particular park a solid 4 at this time. If further research reveals regular community events, and/or positive demographics in the surrounding habitat, and/or some historical significance then it might turn this particular park from a 4 into a 4+ and possibly a 5. Tilles Park is one public park I’d spend some serious time getting to know if I lived in St. Louis. It was good fortune in locating such a promising prospect so easily. It doesn’t always go that way. Some locations take hours and others have so few parks there are not any real options. You may have to settle for 2 and 3 star parks in your area, in which case my 3 star becomes your 5 star. Don’t let me box you in - think outside of it! I estimate thousands of parks have very nice undiscovered gold patches and 10,000 more will have at least one gold item lost in them. Locate those patches and you’ll regularly locate the gold. This information comes from my own personal experience and observations gained through thousands of hour’s field time. My methods are fluid and something I’ve developed along the way while working towards my own personal challenge to master this game. Please feel free to critique, make suggestions, add to, question, and challenge what I’ve presented here. This is the first time I’ve put it down in writing…and if you made it this far, thank you for your time. Best of hunting to you!
  22. 1 point
    Made another 3D map, this time it's Barringer (Meteor) Crater in Northern Arizona. This is a small map, if you would like better resolution I have it but it will be a slow load on most connections. You can move around in the 3D environment with your mouse. Pan, Zoom and get Information from the features. Try typing in an "r" and watch the mountain spin in 3D. Type an "L" to turn on or off the labels. The "I" in the lower left corner will show you more options.
  23. 1 point
    I get a kick out of reading of the $250 additional fee when purchasing an eBay paper claim. Proof positive that there is no existing claim, rather just a promise to file a claim and deed after you pay the additional $250. I've seen it done and the stupid seller forgot to file it at the county. Buyer has been filing his annuals, looks good on the BLM Serial Register Page, but still not a valid claim. I've also seen buyers go directly to BLM and purchase 160 acres (4-40) and guess what, still no county recording 6 months later. BLM doesn't care, they got their money. THANK YOU TODD HOFFMAN
  24. 1 point
    Is it coincidental that this topic has come up? In the last 3 weeks I have had 3 people call and ask me how to handle claims problems. I won't go into details here but perhaps we need to start policing our own. Very touchy subject. Steve- You have listed 9 important points to consider before getting involved with a claim. Do you intend to list the next 217?
  25. 1 point
    Fred, it is. We got 14" of snow overnight. Going to check the river here in a bit.
  26. 1 point
    there would be no surprises if everyone did it your way, Mitchel! great story, I liked it. fred
  27. 1 point
    It's a fella off one of the Oz forums. Been detecting for about 13 years from memory. A fair few of the forum members have met him. He has held a few days to help people read old diggings, hot rocks, ground balance, etc. Members say that he is a thorough gentleman. Not sure why he uses the auto reader voice. Only joined the forum in Oct last year I think. Handy bit of video if you've got a GPX.
  28. 1 point
    First, try to edit the post. Some will let you edit the title and others won't. Good Luck. Edit: I just looked at one of my posts and sure enough you can edit the title of the post. I'd say: Over Half Ounce of Gold and a Specimen for 2017
  29. 1 point
    Apologies Mitchel should have put first day at the end! Squizz
  30. 1 point
    Within a foot of the Veterans Memorial Hall . I was able to walk to the trees in the forefront this morning . It has risen approximately 3 feet since this morning . My house is at the same level as the hall, but I have hwy 70 to buffer me slightly. Although, the flooding is working it's way up the drainage ditch towards my house. Safe for now. Will update in the morning .
  31. 1 point
    Boy, you can say that again. Its like once I try to talk a little bit about reality, I am seen as if I am personally trying to stomp on their dreams. Sorry gents, there really aint no free lunch. The people who sell the claims have been around for years, and some are more and some less dishonest. However I've seen a big uptick in the number of these folks out there. Its like one outfit has made some good money with this technique and so competition has suddenly sprung forth. If you get a GPAA magazine, there is a big two page spread for one. I saw another that gave itself a name like it was not a business, but a government agency. Its a game of whack-a-mole.
  32. 1 point
    I live close to the foothills of the Sandia Mountains and its normal to get snow on them at nearly 11,000 feet elevation. When the weatherman says snow I figure I'll get an inch or three in my area but it will be clear by the time I get down into the valley. It looks like this one caught us all by surprise and snowed across the whole valley and it was followed by extremely low temperatures. So that measly little 1-1/2" turned the roads into snow pack and ice covered rinks. Basically the more it got drove on , the worse it got. That and the city didn't have the cinders out. I think we just get rain later in the week this week. I don't mind hunting in the snow as long as the ground is dig-able. I have even hunted in blizzard a couple of years ago. But when I have to use a pick to get past the frozen surface I have to wait a bit. HA! HH Mike
  33. 1 point
    Got lucky and paid 6.00 bucks plus 4 bucks shipping for a brand new hardcover. Came in a week ago but have to finish a great book I am reading now called Blood and Thunder, a story about Kit Carson and the conquest of the American west. If anyone enjoys Western history this is a must read, chronicles Kit Carson and John C, Fremont's exploits and adventures.
  34. 1 point
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  36. 1 point
    Another shot of Downieville, late in the afternoon. This is the back of the Downieville Pizza parlor. Steve and I and Bill (another member of this forum) had pizza one evening a couple summers ago at the table on the right side of this photo.
  37. 1 point
    NF Yuba at the confluence of Ladies Canyon Creek and he NF Yuba. Again, remember this is from when it was still light, hours before peak river flows. Looking forward to doing some sniping this summer!
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Chet for explaining it. I just wish we had these machines now, I`m going to call Trump and see what he can do for us.
  39. 1 point
    There is more signal information to be gleamed and some of the easier and cost effective ideas will be built into future detectors ahead of other more expensive features. Many experience hunters can sense if it is a big chunk at depth or if it is a small nugget near the surface. In future models more depth and size information might be displayed in a % of probability value. That would be similar to what the White’s GMT does now for % of probability of the target being iron. Refer to the many posts by experienced persons stating the best settings to use under different ground and electromagnetic interference conditions. Future models will be able to evaluate those conditions and change modes and adjust to the environment without any operator actions. False targets such as clay hotspots and hot rocks have some different characteristics from metal objects. Another % of probability that it is a real target could be displayed. Digital / computer mathematic and statistical methods will continue to make improvements on these ideas and in other areas. It is a slow process due to the small market for metal detectors. Small detector companies cannot afford many engineers and computer software personnel. And they cannot spend years in research and development. They have to get attractive stable machines into the market to stay in business. If the market was anywhere as big as cell phones or television we would already have fantastic detectors at low cost. Have another good day, Chet
  40. 1 point
    Well, to my way of thinking what you are describing is exactly why we want to listen to a threshold tone as opposed to a silent machine. If the machine is silent, you do not know how much target signal it takes to drive the audio into the range where you can here it. With a threshold, you are already listening to the audio and so all you have to discern is a change in the tone or volume. Studies have shown our ears are much better at sensing changes in volume or tone then they are at picking faint sounds out of silence. If you are in a totally silent sound proof environment your brain will even start making noises for you. That is why even though I have poor hearing it does not worry me because I set the threshold volume to suit my hearing. Maybe it sounds too loud to somebody with much better hearing but it does not matter. All that matters is that I am able to hear the threshold, and then that I can hear when it changes in volume or tone.
  41. 1 point
    Happy New Year everyone! Here is my 2016 detecting year review. This was my first full season running the CTX 3030 and I used it almost exclusively for all my detecting. The Makro Gold Racer is responsible for a few of the finds and I plan on giving it more swing time next year. In fact, besides my Chinese coin my Gold Racer found my oldest coin of the year. An 1875 Deutsches Reich 2 Pfennig. Almost all hunting was done in Public Parks with a few curb strips and private home sites thrown in but I would say over 90% of the finds were from parks.. My goal for the year was 100 Silver Coins and I just made it with 106.. Next years goal is to NOT set a goal. It kind of took some of the fun out of detecting towards the end of the year with the pressure on and unusually bad fall weather cutting in to hunt time as I was trying to reach 100. Once I hit my number everything was good again. I was able to slow down and enjoy the hunt. I didn't get a chance to do any nugget hunting this year so I hope to change things up a bit in 2017 with some nugget and relic hunting too. 2016 Totals: Wheat Cents 328 might be missing some Indian Head Cents 30 Silver Coins. 106 V Nickels. 9 Buffalos. 8 Silver Rings 11 Misc Silver Jewelry 10 Gold Rings. 2 Key Date and better date coins 1921 D Mercury Dime 1895 S Barber Dime 1917 S Buffalo Nickel 1931 S Wheat Penny 1909 VDB Wheat x2 1911 D Wheat x2 1912 D Wheat 1912 S Wheat x2 1913 S Wheat x2 1914 S Wheat 1915 S Wheat x2 1926 S Wheat x2 Foreign Coins No Date Victoria Quarter 1870-1901 1907 1956 Canada Dimes 3 Fish Scales (5 Cent)1892 1909 and a no date 1875 Deutsches Reich 2 Pfennig. (Gold Racer) Chief Lung Tung Pao 1736-1795 Several older Canada pennies My favorite finds of the year are probably my Key Date 1921 D Mercury Dime (VF-XF) And my Sterling Type 1 Eagle Scout ring 1930-1940. I also remember the Sterling pocket watch belt clip being an exciting find also with its booming high tonesand lots of silver flash when I opened the plug. Although my area in the Pacific North West lacks some old history and does not produce really old coins like other parts of the country, it kind of makes up for it a bit with a lot of S and D mint marks.. A lot of the key date pennies I found are really nice and should still have some good value even after coming out of the ground. Coins hold up well around here for the most part with a few exceptions. I found quite a few VF XF coins. I moved mid year so lost a lot of hunt time and am missing some of my misc. finds like buttons, keys, pins and tokens. I'll find them eventually if I ever get fully unpacked. The more serious I get about old coin hunting the more I don't care about the quantity but rather the quality of my finds and the hunt itself. Might not ever find a hundred Silvers again in one year and that's ok with me. Funny how you perspective of things can change over a year. Thanks for looking and enjoy the hunt. Bryan
  42. 1 point
    Here is a picture of the actual Gold Hill Pocket I took in 2012. And a picture of a 4 oz nugget found on the other side of the Gold Hill pocket in the Rogue River dredging in 2012. Yes, that is my hand holding the big nugget! The Rogue river is on the backside of the Gold Hill pocket in the pic and it was fed by many many small pockets and a large pocket complex that ran from inside the river all the way to the top of the next hill over from the Gold Hill pocket and stops at the bottom of a house's basement on top of the hill with an explosion of red iron oxide dirt that the pocket complex is contained in (contact zone). On both sides of the pocket complex are two different types of dirt, bushes and trees. Tale tale signs of a large contact zone. The less rich side of the pocket complex can be identified just by looking at the dirt, good farming type dirt. (dark brown color). The richer side (gold) of the complex the dirt is high in iron, quartz and drives a VLF crazy and is red and more deep orange color. Even the vegitation is different on the rich side. This is where I find gold in every piece of quartz I pick up (after crushing). Very thick quartz veins that ran across the river here contained large quantities of gold. This is the epicenter of the beginning of the gold in that area. Go 2 miles up river - no gold... Thanks for the info Steve. I really like pocket gold hunting with a metal detector. I know of 5 rich strikes within 40 miles of this Gold Hill pocket in 2014. I mean rich...sworn to secrecy though. Its still out there folks! GPZ 7000 anyone?? Oh yea...
  43. 1 point
    I have been out gold prospecting with the Garrett ATX recently and wanted to share my latest thoughts on the unit. That, and show off a particularly nice nugget I just found with the detector! I got my ATX right at a year ago. The machine has easily paid for itself and remains one of my favorite detectors. With all the other new detectors I have been using lately I have not had it out enough however, and so I have made an effort to start using it again the last few weeks. I guess my constant prospecting these days is making me tougher as I have no problem using the ATX for long hours with no extra support. Still, for long days I like to use a bungee support off the shoulder of my Camelback style rucksack. Garret was kind enough to send me a set of scuff covers for my coils, and I find the solid scuff cover for the stock coil to be very helpful. It prevents the coil from hanging up in stubble and in northern Nevada allows me to let the coil just ride on the ground. There usually is just a little grass or weeds that act as a buffer for smooth riding. If I get directly on hard rock surface I still pick up some coil falsing but not so much as when the bare coil edges would catch on rocks. The only issue with the solid cover is that it collects debris and must be shaken clean on occasion. I think I will get another scuff cover or even just a flat piece of plastic to fix in place over the top to prevent this from happening. I have been using the headphone adapter so I can run the ATX with my Sun Ray Pro Gold headphones, which sound a bit better to my ear than the supplied headphones. The Garrett headphones are pretty good but I would rather keep them available for backup use. I have toyed with the idea of using my B&Z booster along with a shoulder mounted external speaker but have not quite got around to trying that yet. I think that would be preferable for long hours in very quiet locations. I like to hear what is going on around me. Related to that, I normally run the ATX with a very faint threshold. I have also experimented a bit with running it set just barely quiet, and for patch hunting wandering around I am thinking I may do this more often. The performance edge lost is minimal, and I do enjoy the solitude and silence. Many days detecting for me is nothing more or less than a wonderful long hike over the hills in the middle of nowhere. No headphones and no threshold buzz just might be something I do more of in the future. I know, I should be preaching the opposite but my primary goal these days is enjoying myself and those little things make a difference. Being able to hear a wild horse in the distance or a coyote howl is important to me. I usually dig it all but I do like the ferrous check function on the ATX. It can only be trusted on targets I really know to be junk anyway - nice loud surface signals. But maybe, just maybe that signal is a large shallow nugget! It is nice to push the button and get a solid ferrous indication from the ATX allowing me to work more efficiently in areas with lots of surface nails and other ferrous trash. I don't trust it on weak signals however, especially in very mineralized ground. The waterproof part is nice but really not needed. What I do appreciate is being able to collapse the unit down into a compact package and toss it in my truck. That the ATX uses rechargeable AA batteries is also a bonus because I am starting to standardize on them. All other things being equal I try to get detectors or accessory items that use AA batteries, and I have a lot of AA batteries and chargers due to this. This makes having plenty of extras available for use in the ATX very simple and cost effective. The bottom line is the Garrett ATX is a very capable nugget detector with good performance on a wide range of target sizes. I appreciate the solid, stable performance. I have got no problem going out and finding gold with the ATX. Better yet, I use the ATX for more than nugget detecting. It is my preferred water hunting detector and so in that regard a true bargain. I was just out and hunting an area where I picked up a few nuggets with other detectors recently. I got the ATX out of the truck and wandered down to the wash. I had barely really got the unit ground balanced up and the soil I was walking on just looked like sandy mud with grass growing on it, so I decided to walk upstream a bit for a better location. I got a whisper of ground noise as I walked and a couple steps later stopped and thought "hmmmm... was that really a ground noise?" It had that little something and I was just assuming I did not have the ground balance spot on yet. I backed up and checked, and sure enough there was a soft signal in the grass. I gave a little dig and came up with a 0.7 gram nugget. Well ok then, that was more like it. I started to work the immediate location and just six feet away got a largish signal, probably trash. I dug a bit and it was still in the hole. So I gave it a vigorous scoop and up pops a mud covered nugget. A large nugget! It later weighed in at 26.3 grams or 0.85 Troy ounces. I was ecstatic. I have to tell you that nugget really means a lot to me. Why? Because the location I was hunting was nothing anyone pointed out to me. I was running around looking at some old prospects and had a theory going on the geology and where the gold was coming from. I decided the location would be good on my own just based on what I was seeing, and I scored a really great nugget. The satisfaction of figuring things out and making a good call means more to me than the nugget. It is what real prospecting is all about. The fact that it is also one of the nicest nuggets I have found so far in Nevada certainly does not hurt though. It is a beauty, solid and chunky with a nice kind of flat matte finish. A bunch of hunting later and I scored another small 0.6 gram nugget, for a total of three nuggets and 27.6 grams with the Garrett ATX. I am sure there is more gold waiting out there to be found so can't wait to get back at it. Just a great time in great country, and I have to say I am not missing being in Alaska at all. This beats being in cold rain ate alive by bugs any time. I am getting ready to have a major weeding out of detectors and accessories. My collection of gear has ballooned too far in excess of what I need, and in 2015 I want to just focus on detecting instead of detectors, if you catch my drift. I need a few good machines to cover the bases for my varied detecting needs, but all the rest need to go. I am not much on clutter. One thing I do know for sure though, and that is that the Garrett ATX has earned a permanent spot in my collection. In particular I plan on being on California storm watch this winter, and at the first sign of major beach action I am grabbing the ATX and heading for the coast. The California beach boys will be seeing a new face this winter. And I am very sure there are many more nugget hunts in the future for me and the Garrett ATX.
  44. 1 point
    Hi Steve, I think our approaches are the same, mine is just due to 21 years based in an extreme environment that requires tweaking of the equipment to drag every scrap of depth possible and the fact I'm HUNGRY for every gram of gold that might be available to help pay the bills. (I'm sure you are too BTW) Believe it or not the gold I find is generally on the small side too, it is the stuff I'm always chasing as its the gold that keeps me fed. As an example getting a 1 gram piece at 14 inches is very exciting for me, especially if it is due to a deliberate change in the way I've gone about getting it, getting an ounce of small stuff in quick order especially at depth is right up there with my all time favorite occasions. The ATX was fun for this very reason, it required a lot of input from me, drawing on every ounce of skill I had to be successful, something I found extremely satisfying when I started to find gold with it. I'm sure if I had had the time I could have found decent gold with it, but alas time is something I only have in short supply, so I have to go with the machine that has the most grunt in the ground I work. Your forum is fast becoming a favorite hang out of mine Steve, keep up the good work, I cherish my morning coffee time reading it's pages. JP Can you see the sun baker, heard a tiny little whisper, looked down and there it was.
  45. 1 point
    I would say that hits the nail on the head. If you just lean one way or the other based on what the primary use of the machine will be it is hard to go wrong. I prefer my Gold Bug Pro to the AT Gold for prospecting simply because it focuses more on that task and I do not like changing coils on the AT Gold. This will tell you how highly I think of the AT Pro and AT Gold however. The only reason I sold my AT Gold is because I have a CTX 3030 and for me they served the same purpose. Waterproof coin and jewelry detector. If I had to trade the CTX for something else it would be the AT Gold. The fact is I believe the AT Gold or AT Pro compare very favorably with the CTX 3030 and that says a lot. They are a couple super bang for the buck detectors. I was using my Gold Bug Pro in wet brush the other day though and water dripping off the brush got a bit of moisture in the box and the display fogged up. The attractions of waterproof are obvious.