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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2018 in Posts

  1. 32 points
    With summer on it’s way, its back to work for me at my seasonal job. 😩 But the combination of Minelab’s Gold Monster 1000, GPZ 7000 and the warm, sunny weather of the desert southwest all made for a nugget shooter’s paradise this past winter. Super-sensitive VLF technology along with the deep punching power of ZVT made finding gold of all sizes, types and depths a wonder to behold - and all from old patches. Total weight: 6.5 ounces troy.
  2. 28 points
    So I headed to the hills yesterday to get acquainted with the Gold Mode of the EQX 800. Equipped with ear buds and the WM08, I used Gold 2, and only deviated from the factory presets by adjusting the volume to 5, the tone volume to 5, and notched in the 0 segment on the discrimination scale. The ground mineralization was a little too hot to run max sensitivity; backing it down to 20 quieted the ground nicely, but still allowed the targets to really pop. I chose an old thrashed patch that I’ve worked with many detectors in the past, including the Gold Monster last summer. Seems someone had been detecting the area recently , as they left their excavations open. I powered up the EQX, and performed a noise cancel and auto ground balance. Not 5 minutes into it, and the Nox got a nice hit in the bottom of one of the shallow dig holes; scraping out an inch or two revealed a bright little nugglet. Just a few feet away I got another good response, this time in virgin ground. After removing the overlying carpet of moss, the target was still in the ground and much stronger. Digging another inch or two into the weathered quartzite bedrock, and the target was out: another golden bit.😉 After hitting a small patch of tiny foil bits, the ground yielded one more yellow goodie. During most of the hunt, I was running in all metal, unless I got into a healthy patch of hot rocks. They read a consistent -7,-8,-9 on the EQX display, wheras the nugglets were at 1 or 2. Iron falsing on square nails and such was much higher at anywhere from 11 to 35, and was easy to identify because the numbers weren’t consistent and wouldn’t pinpoint. All up, 0.25 of a gram.
  3. 20 points
    Well, up until now I have been running a pre-production Equinox 800 but Minelab did tell me all along that an actual production model would land on my doorstep someday. And so one just did. It was fun to see one nicely packaged in the box - good job with the packaging Minelab! Funny true story is the one I got is one that has a looser upper twist lock that others have experienced. Even with the twist lock firmly engaged the junction is looser than my prototype unit. Looks to be something that snuck into the early production line models. In my case I will do something about it on my own rather than look this gift horse in the mouth. Anyway, I have been wanting to get the Equinox into the water, but frankly I did not trust my prototype as regards how waterproof it might be. I had visions of mine failing after being submerged and so have resisted the urge until I had a backup - which the pre-production model now is. The fact they sent me this means that production must be catching up. Or that they had one of these loose rod units to get rid of so sent it to me. (just kidding guys at Minelab - thanks)! Up until now I was kind of focused on how well I could hunt coins with Equinox and plenty happy on that count. Now it's off to the races for a little jewelry detecting this week.
  4. 20 points
    This is a little premature perhaps since we are still waiting to see any accessory coils at all for the Equinox detectors. First up will be the 6" round DD followed by the 12" x 15" DD coil. What next? I think the Equinox has genuine potential as a gold nugget detector, but that the open spoke coil designs slated so far are not optimal for that purpose. Plus, some relic hunters etc. want something narrower than the stock 11" coil but do not want to give up the ground coverage as much as the 6" round coil does. Minelab has a couple molds for elliptical coils. There is the 5" x 10" DD coil for the X-Terra but that coil is not fully waterproof and too buoyant for water use even if it was. The better option in my opinion is the newer 6" x 10" coil made for the Gold Monster. The Minelab Gold Monster uses the exact same lower rod/yoke size as the Equinox, meaning the coil, coil bolt, and even the coil connector are already the proper size to fit perfectly to the Equinox. Here is my Gold Monster 6" x 10" DD coil mounted to my Equinox 800. As I said, a perfect fit. The Equinox version might weigh more due to more windings required for Multi-IQ but the coil as is weighs less than the 11" coil. My Equinox with this coil mounted weighs 2 lbs 13 oz or 2.81 lbs, slightly less than the 2.96 lbs with 11" coil. It does make for a little better balance. For nugget detecting in particular a solid bottom coil helps prevent snagging on rocks and stubble. I imagine the farm field hunters would love the coil for similar reasons. Anyway, I have no hints that this will happen but I am going to be referring to this thread over and over until it does. With a mold in hand half the work is done, and with the extreme popularity of Equinox no good excuse for this not happening. I personally think it is a requirement for Equinox to be all it can be as a prospecting detector and for many other uses also. Nope, not going to turn it on to see what happens!! Anyone who thinks this is a good idea and wants to aid in the lobbying effort has my express permission to use these photos in posts on other forums, etc. The direct link to the first photo is http://www.detectorprospector.com/forum/uploads/monthly_2018_04/minelab-equinox-with-6-x-10-dd-coil.thumb.jpg.07f2d166da68ca4c6e39bf21759c7c4f.jpg Click photos for larger versions....
  5. 19 points
    I haven`t been putting up any finds lately because I`ve been in a bit of a drought but I like posting pictures of gold so here is a couple of quartz specis I found about 200 yards and 4 years apart out at Moliagul. The one on the right total weight 980 grams with about ½ gram of gold and the other 250 grams with about 1 gram gold. Dave
  6. 18 points
    Walter - First of all, hang in there. It is going to be a frustrating journey because you are being forced out of your 14-year XLT comfort zone. It is not going to be love at first sight. You apparently picked a tough site situation and without experience on the machine did not have enough familiarity with the machine to be able to tweak it to compensate for a tough situation (sprinkler pipe and few targets). The XLT and the Equinox are very different in their speed and range of target sensitivity so you can easily get overloaded by what the Equinox is telling you. I was coming from a Deus which is similar to Equinox in terms of speed and tonality (i.e., target dig decisions are based primarily off tonal cues rather than off visual target IDs), yet still am climbing somewhat of a learning curve. So despite your years of detecting experience, there will be some getting used to a different beast and that may take a few outings to get both your comfort level with the machine up and your confidence in the machine up. This will come with time and certain things will click. Couple of friendly suggestions. First - see if you can track down Steve H. and follow behind him. Lol. But seriously, grab some popcorn and try the following: Site Selection - Try taking the machine to a site you are familiar with, that produced at one point and preferably is still producing. Do not challenge the machine or yourself the first few times out. If you have no choice but to go to a hunted out spot, at least try to find a site that is free of other issues like plentiful ferrous and non-ferrous trash, nearby interference (power lines), and other similar difficulties that are normally fun to overcome when you are on top of your game but that you don't need to deal with when learning a new machine. Since you are not familiar with the machine, at least go to site you know like the back of your hand. Mode Selection - Pick the mode appropriate for the site and stick with that mode regardless of the results. By appropriate for the site I mean appropriate for the targets you want to find and that you are most likely to find at that site, not just the landscape. If you are coin shooting - go with Park 1 or Field 1 as those are geared towards hitting harder on high conductive targets. If you are going after primarily mid-conductive targets (gold, brass or lead relics, small jewelry, nickels) then you can go with Park 2 or Field 2 which are geared towards those targets. Note, however, the "2" modes are hotter and will hit hard on aluminum trash and small trashy objects which can be overwhelming. That is why I recommend Park 1 or the oft ignored Field 1 (because it is a two-tone ferrous/non ferrous beep mode) as the best "training ground" modes for newcomers to the Equinox and to fast detectors in general. Beach modes are also great learning modes (esp. Beach 1) if you are at a salt beach, especially. But since this is likely not the case in Reno. I would stick with Park or Field 1. Don't bother with Gold modes for now because they are a different animal with respect to tones (VCO-based) and you only need to learn one detector at this point. I am not kidding by the way about learning one detector. Each of the modes behave so differently, it is literally like you are taking out a different detector every time you switch modes. Folks have advised to not over tweak the settings. But I am advising you to not over select the modes. Pick a mode and stick with it. Learn it. Love it. It is a multifrequency machine after all, so even if you stick with one mode you will not be stuck finding only one type of target. So don't be afraid to use your "go to" mode at multiple different sites even if you are looking for different target types. Once you gain confidence, feel free to shift around and learn what the other modes can do. But if you shift modes every half hour out of frustration, it will be like running to grab a new machine every half hour. So avoid the temptation to do "Mode Hopping". Settings - Once you have settled on a mode. Your goal is to set your machine up to run as quiet as possible. Do NOT get into a reactive mode and start tweaking settings because you are not hitting targets. Adjust settings, if necessary, because the noise is keeping you from hearing the targets. Equinox is set up for success when you have maximized signal to noise ratio not when you have maximized signal gain. Here is what you do - Auto Noise Cancel - keep the coil in the air when you do this. If you have relatively mild soil - you do not have to ground balance because the machine is pretty forgiving if GB is not set precisely to match the actual ground phase, but I go ahead and do an auto GB (hold the accept/reject button and pump) regardless and let the machine zero in on the right GB reading, especially if I know the soil has some mineralization. Do not adjust recovery speed or Iron Bias from their defaults. Once you come out of the settings menu if the machine is still chatty, then dial down sensitivity as necessary to get rid of the chattiness. Don't be afraid to go low because the machine is pretty sensitive at the default and will still go deep - you need it to quiet down, though. Take Steve's advice. Once you think you have the machine running quiet then start swinging. If you are using a mode that uses 50-tones (Park 2, Field 2), you might want to adjust that mode back to 5-tones to keep from getting overloaded. The "1" modes default to 5 tones (Park 1) or 2 Tones (Field 1) which makes them a good starting point. 50 tones really gives you a feel for tonal nuances on targets so you may eventually want to go there but if you find it overwhelming, no problem just going with 5 tones or even 2 tones. Swing technique and Target ID - Use your test garden to gage the best swing speed for the recovery speed setting you are using. This may take a little getting used to. The faster recovery speed of the Equinox will tend to force you to swing perhaps a little faster than you are used to in order to get a good target signal response. You can, of course, overswing and also not get a good response but you should practice and listen to what good targets sound like and get to the point that you can just wiggle the center of the coil over them to get the response you need. Listen to the good tones and bad tones. Dig probable junk to verify your suspicions. This will build your aural muscle memory and get you use to the tones. Rely on target ID to back up your tonal ID and look for target ID bounce indicating likely junk. Also, make liberal use of the All Metal Horseshoe button to interrogate a target and listen for iron tones which may indicate that the tone you are hearing is iron falsing. Now I will say the depth meter has been reported to be a little wonky - I don't use a depth meter anyway so I am not missing it on this machine, but there does seem to be a love-hate relationship with it amongst Equinox users and the pinpointing feature is also a little quirky, but I have gotten used to it and like it not because it helps me pinpoint the target better (I use the wiggle off method primarily) but because it is a non-motion mode that gives you some good audible information on the target to help determine relative size and depth. As you gain confidence in your abilities with the Equinox you can start tweaking other settings, but don't do it without a purpose (remember - the key is getting rid of unnecessary noise or falsing, but it is always a balancing act against losing target depth or inadvertently missing a target due to overfiltering - e.g., overuse of iron bias). The default settings are good for 80 to 90% of your detecting situations. Also, you may gain some insight based on what you wrote above. In one post you said you went through all the modes, you tweaked recovery speed and iron bias, you dialed down on sensitivity. In the next post you said all you did was switch modes and left the settings at their defaults. So there may be a little new machine confusion going on. To ensure you are starting at the default settings for your next outing, you may want to take Bill's advice and do a factory reset. Again, Walter, hang in there and stick with the machine for awhile. It will grow on you after a bit, you just need to snag a few keepers to gain confidence in the machine. Once you get on a roll, you will steadily climb that learning curve. But the best thing you can do is minimize the variables that force you to take backward steps. Good Luck and Happy Hunting, sir.
  7. 17 points
    I went to a park in Yonkers, New York, the second "hilliest" City in the United States, just behind San Francisco, and detected a park that has been heavily hunted since the 1970s. It is in a very old part of the City, that is now run down, and dangerous. I was approached by two sets of policemen during my 90-minute hunt, and after short conversations, me giving them my business card, and them warning me to "keep your eyes open," I continued detecting. Not my best hunt ever, but the Multi Kruzer, three-tone, 5kHz, gain 80, really sniffs out copper and silver missed by countless other detectorists over the last four decades! Really starting to get a feel for the machine as I approach 100-hours on the headphones. I got out of the area without being robbed or assaulted, got some wheats, an IH with a marble beside it, and a silver. Happy-happy!
  8. 15 points
    I was metal detecting the beach in the water about Waist Deep, when I hit this signal that was large and the Equinox was giving numbers from 12 to 18 with the occasional hits around 26 to 32 At first I thought bottle caps! I have found groups of them before... and as I started to walk away I thought to myself I've never had bottle caps hit up in those High numbers before... So I went back and started digging and my first scoop had two Rusty bottle caps in it... went back over the hole and now the signal still bounced around but was more solid than before... My next scoop was another bottle cap and as I ran the coil over the hole again, a solid 28 the next scoop brought up a completely crusted black ring! I just thought cool it must be silver with a little star of gold.... I didn't think much of it... when I got back and cleaned it up, I started thinking this is not just an ordinary silver ring, this is some kind of fancy designer ring! It's made in France by a jewelry company Mauboussin that's been around since 1858 I think it was... And a quick search of the internet they sell for 500.00
  9. 14 points
    Well today was beach hunt #7 with the Equinox. There wasn’t a lot of detecting room, with the way the tide was today. Also, a lot of people walking and laying out on the beach. It’s getting crowded out there. I was hoping to keep the streak alive today and I didn’t have to wait very long. First good target was the pink stone 14 K Gold ring. I almost didn’t believe it. That made the rest of the hunt less stressful and more enjoyable, as the gold streak would continue. But I didn’t expect to get too much more, but the finds kept coming. All the time I just kept shaking my head, I can’t believe what Minelab has done!!! 4 gold rings, some silver and a small amount of clad. The broken class ring was found in 2 separate holes about 60 ft apart. The breaking points match up perfectly…they were part of the same ring. The tiny targets were out in full force, as well as the pull tabs too. A small price to pay for the good finds that can come with it. Probably the smallest chain this machine can pick up. Had a hard time locating it once it was out of the hole. I was glad to get out today… a picture-perfect weather day!
  10. 14 points
    found these little guys and had fun! thanks RT for all the help and info!!!!!!!!!
  11. 14 points
    Hi all! I wanted to share a real-world hunting report, from yesterday, at a local public park. I was hunting with my CTX and 17" coil; sensitivity manual 25, ferrous discrimination only, 50 tones, Ferrous-coin separation, deep off, fast off. My buddy was hunting his Equinox, Park 1, 23 sensitivity, recovery 5, iron bias 2, 50 tones, no disc. I was moving along slowly, and "hunting deep," and I hit a soft, repeatable high-tone that I figured was a coin -- around 12-39 to 12-41, so I figured wheat cent. Depth meter showed about 9"-10". I dug, and it was indeed an 8" to 8 1/2" deep 1920 wheat cent. I filled the hole, and started swinging again. A foot away, I hit a very similar signal, but this one just a bit less repeatable. There were a couple of angles where it was hard to get an audio signal on, maybe one out of every 3 or 4 passes I'd get a tone; most angles though, it was fairly repeatable, giving a good, soft high tone on 3 out every 4 sweeps. I could tell this one was nearer the depth limits of the CTX (at least in my dirt, for my skill level), and the depth meter was showing 10" to 11". Again, 12-39, 12-40 type reading. So, pretty sure I had another deep coin, as part of a "pocket spill," this time I called my buddy over to give a listen with his Equinox. He got a soft, entirely repeatable high tone as he rotated and "Minelab wiggled" the target, average ID readings in the mid 20s, right around 25. He guessed copper/wheat cent. So, I handed him the CTX to listen (he knew how to interpret the CTX, as his "other machine" that he's used for nearly 10 years is an E-Trac), and after working the target, he felt the CTX signal was similar to, or maybe not quite as good as, the Equinox. So, next, I listened to the target on the Equinox, and concurred. The signal was indeed a bit more consistent/repeatable on the Equinox as I worked the target. I dug it, and it was a 9" deep 1928-D wheat cent. So, I filled the hole, and started sweeping again. Less than a foot away, I got a repeatable-from-all-directions but inconsistent-sounding signal. I would NOT have dug this signal normally, as it would not have caught my attention if I were just "moving along, hunting normally." It was all over the place, audio-wise, ID numbers teens to mid 20s, more 20s than teens. BUT -- being less than a foot away from the two wheats I just dug, I was listening carefully for ANY repeatable tone, to see if there were any more coins -- and so I gave this one way more attention than I normally would have. That plus the fact that it was showing 8" to 10" on the depth meter, had me interested. Again, moving along hunting "regularly," and not scrutinizing every sound because of working a "pocket spill," the predominantly high teens and 20s ID numbers, and audio "all over the place," would NOT have caught my attention enough in this trashy park for me to stop to investigate. One final reason I was interested, was that I knew this is how a fringe-deep nickel behaves in my test garden. Consistently registers a tone from all angles, BUT nowhere near nickel ID (13 CO number), but instead generally upper teens and 20s conductive numbers. So, I called my buddy back over with his Equinox. I was almost sure he was going to get a very solid-reading, 12-13 IDing target, as I was almost sure it was going to be a deep nickel at this point, and I knew that lots of 12s, and a few 13s, is generally how my Equinox behaves on deep nickels. And that's exactly what he got. A solid, repeatable-from-all-directions 12-13 signal, with an occasional blip of 11, or 14. Mostly 12's. I let him listen on the CTX, and he said "wow, those tones are all over the place." I told him that that is why I dig few deep nickels with the CTX. He let me listen on the Equinox -- a perfectly diggable, easy-to-call nickel-type signal. So I dug it, and it was about an 8" deep Buffalo. Finally, about 5 minutes later, about 10 feet away from the other 3 coins, I got another deep, repeatable high tone. This one showed 8" to 10" deep, with mainly upper 30s to around 40 CO numbers. I called over my buddy, and it was the same as on the first wheat he listened to -- low to mid 20s, with an occasional higher ID, soft but solid and repeatable. I popped the plug on this one, and the numbers for me were now showing a bit lower -- 12-37s in the plug. At that point, reading a bit lower "in the plug" than it did in the ground, we both guessed Indian instead of wheatie. Sure enough, about an 8" deep 1898 Indian Head penny. My long-winded point in all of this, is to share a direct, in the field, head-to-head comparison of the Equinox to the CTX on three different, un-dug targets. This perfectly mirrors the results in my test garden, with the Equinox being just as deep, if not a tad bit more solid on each of the targets I have buried -- pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters (with the largest advantage in the Equinox's favor showing up on the nickels, but still a small advantage on all the coins). This also mirrors most of the comments from other hunters who are posting results. It's for real, guys. While there are still things the CTX does better (such as providing better "dig decision" information, visually, in a much more thorough way, AND allowing you to avoid more trash, more easily), the Equinox is a very, very impressive performer. Just as deep if not a tad deeper, and a better hunter in trash/iron... Steve
  12. 13 points
    It is rare I would dig a nickle on a hunt let alone 3! Was a quick 3 hour hunt in a very small 1800s park I have hit for many years. Most of this stuff had to have been previously masked by screw tops and iron. More than a few of these had a nail come out of the plug first or after I retrieved the target. One wheat has iron oxide on the obverse from where it has been resting on a nail, cant get a date off of it. I had such a great time! I had to share, thank you for your time and looking! What a day! 1941 Jefferson 1909 V Nickle x2 1916, 1919, cant see date Wheat 1903, 1893, 1890 IHC Sterling Ring 2 piece great seal button 1951 Canadian Cent and other tiny non FE stuff!
  13. 13 points
    A friendly reminder here for those who posess Equinox units or those who plan on getting. Pay particular attention when transporting your units. What I am referring to here is the magnetic charging port on detector as well as the magnetic port on wi stream headphone module. These both can pick up metal things when exposed. Hence there could be a possibility of you shorting out either or your detector's battery or the battery in the wireless module. My headphone module picked up a nail today when I laid it down briefly. Just thought I would share.
  14. 12 points
    Hi all, My name is Joseph and am a lifelong resident here in Fairbanks, Alaska. After about 8 years of searching for gold with a pan, homemade sluice and 2" suction dredge, I'd decided to take a leap (after reading a few spectacular in-depth reviews here) on purchasing Minelab's Gold Monster 1000 at the beginning of April. I have a older Bounty Hunter tr/bfr detector and a older Fisher 1212x I'd found at a pawn shop although I learned they are both ok for finding decent size metals like keys/coins and hot rocks on the surface and the Bounty Hunter has helped me find black sands a few times, but not so good on the small sub-gram gold I normally find. The snow is still on the ground here, maybe 1ft in my yard and still around 7 feet in the area I like to spend the summertime prospecting. This past week I'd taken a short drive to one of the local fishing lakes to see if I could find some ground to get a little practice in and luck was in my favor. Not being to familiar with detecting non-ferrous metals, I thought it would be a good idea to chase after some of the tin foil and lead sinkers that had been scattered all over the beach from years of people that like to hang out there. With the large coil on, I'd held the machine off the ground to power on, let it complete the air test and started out in "All Metal Mode" at "auto plus one" sensitivity and was about 30 seconds before I'd heard the first loud beep with the meter slamming to the right, it took a few moments to find out it was the first small split shot lead sinker! So on to the next few targets I'd noticed plenty of beeps with the meter going the other direction (ferrous) I'd dug them anyway to make sure and turned out being single fish hooks. What got really annoying was how overly sensitive the GM1000 is on tiny pieces of foil and I mean tiny! It screamed like it was a large target until I turned the sensitivity to manual to the 6th bar which calmed things down and helped me focus on some actual large targets. After about an hour went by I had 14 lead sinkers, 5 hooks and a few pennies, I just had to check out the 5" coil. Round 2: I'd returned to full auto plus one sensitivity and found what cherry picking really was by simply lifting the coil up just a little to see if I could make any difference in the sound getting lighter response from the smaller targets and seemed to do the trick of avoiding some (not all) of the tiny foil pieces and continued to score some good size lead, a few dimes, nickels and then my first silver which looked to be a part of a bracelet or?? Didn't matter so much as it made my day! I was happy to then try out the "gold mode" for a while as I felt really comfortable with the full auto/all metal settings. I did not like the beep..beep sound it made while ignoring the ferrous targets after hearing a more wha-zip sound I had gotten used to and doubt I'll ever use it in that environment again. (maybe in the hills?) Although the meter seemed to be spot on still. So back to it, I got to dig a few more hooks, sinkers, 2 fly's, more coins, a broken cheap ring, some tiny shotgun pellets, a few bullets, a pellet gun pellet and then the magic happened, a beep like I hadn't heard yet... My first gold with the GM1000, first with a metal detector and first gold of the year was a 1" tall pendant (brass plate) with gold flakes and is my first Initial! A true blessing as the silver was a great find for me, it still blows my mind and if I never find another flake with this machine, I couldn't be happier with how my first experience went! Thank you to all who have posted about this detector and other forms of prospecting knowledge, I hope I can do the same as I get more familiar with the gm1000 and will do my best to help contribute to any info I may provide in the future! Joseph
  15. 11 points
    Hi All, I like H.Glenn Carson's books. I like the way he tries to get you into the right mindset for what you are hunting for. I wrote this little article several years ago kind of along his view of trying to get you to think rather than just telling you where to go. I find it helps you to own the information. Maybe some will find it helpful. HH Mike So you want to find gold with a metal detector? There are three forms of gold you can find with a metal detector; gold coins, gold nuggets and gold jewelry. I’m going to focus on gold jewelry, and further refine that focus to just gold jewelry found at inland sites, like parks, schools, athletic fields and play grounds. Tip number one: You hunt gold jewelry with your mind. Next time you are out and about, take a look at what type of jewelry people are wearing. What do you see? Who is wearing the gold? What type and size of gold is being worn? What part of the body is it being worn on? Almost everybody is wearing some type of gold jewelry. It may be in the form of a chain around a neck or wrist, to a ring on a finger, to an earring in the ear, but nearly everyone is wearing something. Married couples have wedding bands. Most post adolescent girls, young ladies and women are wearing multiple rings and often bracelets of some sort. The high school and college graduates are wearing class rings. Both female and males are often wearing gold chains. The males often just wear a chain, while the females often wear a chain with a pendant attached to it. You’ll even see ankle bracelets and toe rings. You will notice some cultures wear more than others. Some cultures will wear more and larger gold jewelry. But there are more things to look for than just culture. Pay attention to life style as well. For example the hip hop and rap lifestyles tend to wear bigger and larger jewelry. Can you say Bling Bling? What type and size of gold? The smallest gold is often worn in the ears. Little round studs and small designs, sometimes with stones. Various size loops. Often it is hard to tell but maybe you can notice what type of backing is used to hold them on. Probably easier to look at the women in your own life or visit a jewelry store or the jewelry counter at a big box store and learn about the different types and styles of making earrings stay in your ears. While you are there, study the clasps of chains and bracelets and the various sizes of rings. The girls/women wear the small diameter rings, ring sets, and often they will contain stones. The women will also wear the small gold bracelets, sometime with pendants, sometimes with stones, and small diameter chains, often with pendants. The men will wear the larger rings and the larger chains, and as mentioned above, certain cultures and lifestyles will wear even larger than normal gold. I was in a gold buyers shop a few months back and I saw a gentleman in there that had to have had at least $5,000 dollars worth of gold chain around his neck. Big links in the chains with big pendants in the shape of initials. He wasn’t selling, he was buying. So you have spent some time studying people and the jewelry they wear. And you have made the trip the jewelry counter or store and looked at how they are designed to stay on the body part they are intended to be wore on. You have seen the various earring retention systems; you have looked at the clasps of chains and bracelets. You have noticed the styles and sizes of rings. The next question is, “How is the jewelry separated from its respective body part?” That is a very good question. How do the earrings get out of the ears? How do the chains get off the neck? How do the rings come off the fingers? There are only two answers to that question. 1) They are taken off by the owner on purpose, or 2) They are accidently dislodged somehow. Let’s look at these individually. The first reason identified for jewelry separating from its respective body part was that it is taken off by the wearer on purpose. What is going to cause someone to remove a piece of jewelry? When I was young I remember my mom and grandmother taking off their wedding bands and placing them on the window sill before they did the dishes. Why? The main reason, of course, is for safe keeping. The item is removed so that it wouldn’t get lost or damaged. Let’s take that same thought pattern outside. So now we are outside. Folks are taking their jewelry off for safe keeping but where do they put it? Where is the first place you would put your ring if you took it off for safe keeping? In your pocket of course! What if you didn’t have a pocket? You’d give it to someone else who did have a pocket, or you’d put it somewhere you were pretty sure it would be safe. Somewhere you were confident you wouldn’t lose it, most likely with other stuff that you had to do the same thing with, or you would put it into something else, like a bag you brought with you. The second reason identified for jewelry separating from its owner is by it being accidently dislodged. Let’s think about that. What type of activity does it take to dislodge something that is designed to stay on your body unless you purposely remove it? Let’s use a men’s ring for an example. What type of activity does a man need to be involved in to lose his ring? He either has to have his hand in something that could potentially remove his ring when he removed his hand, or he had to engage in some sort of activity that would cause the ring to leave his finger. What would cause a chain to be dislodged from around a neck? The clasp has to either come open unexpectedly or the chain has to be caught in something that causes it to break. What would cause an earring to leave an ear? It has to lose its fastener, or be caught in something that would pull it from the ear, or both. How is something that is placed in a pocket or bag for safe keeping accidently leave its place of safe keeping? It has to fall out or be spilled out, or be accidently pulled out. Tip number two: Gold has to be hidden from eyesight for us to find it. How come when a piece of jewelry is lost the owner of the jewelry didn’t recover the lost piece? There are only two answers to this question. 1) They either didn’t know they had lost it, and/or, 2) It was lost in some type of media that could hide it from their eyes. There was something that prevented it from being found by only looking for it with their eyes. It could be sand, woodchips, gravel, grass, trash, leaves, anything that once something is dropped onto it or into it that makes it difficult to find with just your eyesight. Tip number three: Learn the loss characteristics of the items you find. Seek the answer to the question, “Why did I find what I found where I found it?” Once you think you have the answer, validate it by hunting other areas where that loss characteristic could be repeated and see if you find jewelry there. A validated loss characteristic is more valuable than the jewelry find itself. A few examples where I have found something and identified the items loss characteristic(s): I found a nice herringbone style 14kt gold chain on an athletic field. It was intact and the clasp was attached to its respective counterpart. The guy would have had to lose his head in order to lose the chain. But here it was down in the grass and there was no severed head with it. So how did it get there? This is an example of an item that was taken off for safekeeping and then lost. It wasn’t torn off, or flew off over his head, this had to come out of a pocket or bag, and I believe it was from a pocket as it wasn’t in a location where bags and such are normally staged. So what activity would normally take place where I found the chain that would cause it to come out of a pocket? Since it was a soccer field, I deduce it was something to do with running or perhaps falling down. I have found many items on athletic fields that were originally placed into a pocket or bag for safe keeping that was then subsequently lost. I found a little 10kt gold chain and pendant with a broken chain in the sand at a school playground. It was quite obvious from the broken chain that it had been torn from a child’s neck in some type of play activity. From the equipment around the find, along with subsequent chain finds in the same area around that equipment I deduce it is a great area for games of tag or some such activity as all the chains I found in that area have been broken. (a validated loss characteristic) I found a nice 14kt gold wedding band with three .20 carat diamonds mounted on it about five inches deep in some woodchips. Studying the situation, it was easy to see that a parent had been sitting on the curbing around the play ground, leaning back with their fingers buried in the loose wood chips watching their children play in the adjoining playground. When they removed their hands from the woodchips the ring was left behind and the parent either didn’t notice the ring was gone or noticed it but couldn’t find it. (validated loss characteristic) I found a nice wide wedding band near a goal post on a soccer field. It had obviously been left for safe keeping in that location, either with other possessions, or by itself and was either not recovered or fell out of a bag when the other possessions were recovered and hidden by the grass. (validated loss characteristic). Ok. So you have figured out the most likely reason a piece of jewelry was lost. Now what? Once it is understood why or how a particular item was lost, the next step is to seek out places where that particular loss characteristic can be repeated. Tip number four: Don’t dig trash, dig gold trash. Gold jewelry is a low conductive target on a metal detector and is found in the same range as aluminum trash. It is often a small target. Remember all those earrings and chains and rings and bracelets you saw at the jewelry counter? Small, low conductive objects that hide in the aluminum trash range can be tedious and hard to find. Even more so if you have to factor in ground minerals that can skew or even hide the signal of the jewelry item. So let’s think about that; small valuable targets mixed in with small aluminum trash that produces the same type readings on your metal detector. That means that to find the gold jewelry you will also have to sort through the trash. Doesn’t sound very promising, does it? Am I saying that to find the gold you have to dig it all? Nope. That is not what I am saying at all. What I am saying is that to find gold jewelry you have to dig all targets that have the highest probability of being gold. Now there are sites like woodchip and sand playground areas where you will want to recover every signal. But to do the same thing in a high use grassy park, athletic field or playground, trying to recover every signal is counterproductive. From your visit to the jewelry counter, you may have noticed that some of the chains have quite a bit of weight to them. A nice gold chain is a good find! Good money! So off I go to hunt chains. I’ve already used my mind, located a promising turf spot to hunt for chains and start digging all the pull tab signals. Hours later I have a hundred plus pull tabs, but no gold chains. Why? I was digging the wrong signals. Pull tabs would be the right targets to recover if I were hunting large rings, but worthless targets to recover if I am hunting gold chains. Especially so if you were in a site that you were confident would produce chains but not large rings. Get the picture? Let’s look at it a little differently. Let’s say that I get to my chain site and start digging all the signals. Now I have a chance to find a chain if it is there, but because I am digging everything I make very little progress on my site coverage, using up energy and time on non-chain targets. I have essentially cut done on my odds of actually finding the target I went out to find. To have the best odds of finding that gold chain I went looking for, I need to focus on signals that could actually be a gold chain and only recover those signals that could actually be a gold chain. Which leads to: Tip number five: the more ground you cover, the better your odds of recovering what you are looking for. By focusing only on the signal I’m after I can cover more ground and increase my odds of actually finding my desired object, which in this example is a gold chain. Tip number six: Gold is where you find it. Gold prospectors have a saying, “gold is where you find it.” That means that you hunt gold where it has been found in the past. Believe it or not, that same saying is true for jewelry. The characteristics that cause a piece of jewelry to be lost and hidden for you to find it with a metal detector are apt to be repeated again and again in the same location. When a gold prospector finds one nugget, he hunts the area carefully again, hoping to find another. When he does find another nugget in the same vicinity, it is called a “nugget patch”. As inland jewelry hunters we, too, are looking for a “patch”. In our case, a patch is a site or location where a particular loss characteristic can repeated again and again. We are not looking so much for that random find but rather that site location where that loss can be repeated again and again. That is a “patch” for a jewelry hunter. A successful jewelry hunter locates patches and then hunts his patches. Many of my jewelry items have come from the same locations that I have hunted again and again, another words, I have found them in my “patches”. Tip number seven: Hunt clad (modern coins) to improve your site reading skills. You say, “Well Mike that is all well and good for you. You have been doing this for a while now and know where to look. What about those of us which are new to the hobby, or maybe coming over to inland jewelry hunting from hunting relics or old coins?” My answer to you is to ‘hunt clad’. Sounds counter intuitive to hunt clad to find gold, but it’s not. Just like the relic hunter hunts for the iron to find the hot spots, so the inland jewelry hunter hunts clad to find the hot spots in parks, athletic fields and school playgrounds. Remember, unlike relics or old coins, jewelry is lost on a daily basis, just like modern clad coins, and often for the same reason. Clad will validate your site reading skills. Recovering the gold: The equipment. If you are going to focus on inland jewelry hunting with a metal detector there are certain features that make it easier to find. Just like any tool, the more appropriate the tool to the task, the easier the task becomes. Working on your car is much easier and efficient with a socket wrench set as compared to having only a pair of vise grips. You could still get the job done with the vise grips in many cases but it would be a tedious and tiring affair. The same thing can apply when it comes to your jewelry hunting tools. You can find jewelry with any metal detector, but it is easier if the metal detector has certain features. The first feature your detector needs is the ability to focus your attention onto your desired target signals. The easiest way to do this is with tone ID. Tone id allows you to discriminate the audio signals with your ears. If you are hunting ladies rings, you have to be able to tell the foil signals apart from all the other responses. Tone Id allows you to do this fast and easily. The better you can focus the tone id onto a certain conductivity range, the better the detector will function for jewelry hunting. A second, and a complimentary feature to tone id is Notch Discrimination. Notch Discrimination is the ability to discriminate out (or in) a range of target signals independent of the base discrimination setting. Again, focus is the key. The more you are focused on the desired signals, the more of the proper signals you will recover for the amount of area searched and the greater will be your success. The third feature is sensitivity to small low conductors. Traditionally this has been accomplished by using higher frequencies units, and is still preferred; however there are some machines on the market today that can give the needed sensitivity with lower frequencies than has been used in the past. Still, the bottom line is that your detector needs to be able to put out some heat on the lower conductive targets. The forth feature is recovery speed. How fast the machine resets after reporting so that you can hear the next target. This is important as the objects you are looking for are lying next to, below, or above other objects that you are not looking for. And they are small. My first gold jewelry find was two gold rings on a large paper clip. The paper clip response nearly completely masked the ring responses but the Fisher CoinStrike I was using at that time had a fast enough response speed that I was able to hear them as distinct, separate signals. I consider those the four most important features a metal detector needs to be a useful gold jewelry hunter. If you live in an area where the ground minerals are influential on signal responses like I do then you have to include ground cancelling features. There are other factors that can make one machine better than another like visual signal presentations, coil selections and such like. But as long as you have a unit that is fairly quick responding and will let you focus on a desired signal and put some heat on it, you are good to go. HH Mike Hillis
  16. 11 points
    I posted this on the Minelab Equinox Parts & Accessories thread but wanted to make sure it was seen so here is a new thread on the subject. I took the basic price list informations, spruced it up, and added the prices from a couple U.S. retail websites. All the MAP or Internet Prices for all the Equinox accessory items except the 15" coil. EQX 06 Double-D Smart Coil (includes skidplate) Part No. 3011-0333 $179.00 EQX 11 Double-D Smart Coil (includes skidplate) Part No. 3011-0334 $229.00 EQX 15 Double-D Smart Coil (includes skidplate) Part No. 3011-0335 Unknown EQX 06 Skidplate Part No. 3011-0376 $10.00 EQX 11 Skidplate Part No. 3011-0377 $18.00 EQX 15 Skidplate Part No. 3011-0378 Unknown USB Charging Cable with Magnetic Connector Part No. 3011-0368 $20.00 2-Way USB Car Charger Part No. 3011-0375 $20.00 4-Way Universal AC Charger Part No. 3011-0374 $40.00 WM 08 Wireless Audio Module (includes Charging Cable) Part No. 3011-0371 $259.00 Minelab Bluetooth / apt-X Low Latency Headphones Part No. 3011-0370 $139.00 Waterproof Equinox Headphones Part No. 3011-0372 $149.00 Headphones (wired) 3.5mm / 1/8-inch Part No. 3011- 0364 $30.00 Headphone Adaptor Cable 3.5mm (1/8-inch) to 6.35mm (1/4-inch) Part No. 3011-0369 $40.00 Screen Protectors (Set) Part No. 3011-0379 $12.00
  17. 11 points
    Tom and I got out for a few hours after work yesterday to one of his "back-pocket" spots that's been well worked over the years. It's getting stingy with targets, but I still managed to get a few keepers, including the oldest seated dime I've found, as my previous oldest seated was an 1840 half dollar, and an 1840 seated half dime. Hunted in Field 2, auto GB, noise cancel, 22 gain, 50 tones, multi-freq, default settings for everything else. If anyone has any idea what this do-hickey is, I'd greatly appreciate an ID. It's about an inch long, and the ID of the circle at the top is about the diameter of a U.S. nickel: Big ole piece of lead was super deep (and super disappointing at the reveal), two old pieces of green copper, we find at Spanish era sites. The large piece is 4.75" long, surprised that wasn't dug up long ago, but just goes to show that there's still potential for large silver, or relics to still be there. Nice old late 1700's/early 1800's flat button: And the grand finale - lol This seated dime was deep, came in as a high tone whisper, and even the pinpoint audio was weak/soft. I've been fooled with plenty of deep iron that sounds similar, but this sounded good enough to go for, took several shovel loads of dirt to get to it, and finally the pin-pointer was sounding off as I saw a dark black disc fly by in the dirt movement. I felt around for it, and located it, and before looking at it I felt it to see if it had a loop as I suspected it was going to be a button, no loop, OK, time to check it out and it was an 1838-O seated dime!! Thanks for looking and HH, Cal
  18. 11 points
    Last Saturday Phrunt (Simon) turned up at my place at 9am. I had the Zed all packed up & ready to go. Simons "new" GPX 4500 hadn't turned up in time so he was taking along his GM 1000 & Gold Bug Pro to compare the two. On our arrival at the car park area we were the only vehicle parked there. We had a bit of a hike to get to where I wanted to take him. We broke the hike up with a detect at some old workings that I hadn't been to for ages. I had never had a VLF over them & as there was a fair amount of shallow ground & sheet bedrock I thought it was as good a spot as any for Simon to swing his VLF's. I think he started off with the GM & was making a hell of a racket with signals every other step. Using no headphones & just the internal speaker, gezzzz your a noisy bugger I said to him... He was just getting shotgun pellet after shotgun pellet & no gold. I had been over this area quite few years ago with my GP 3000 & little Coiltek 10 x 5 joey mono & done pretty good. The wild thyme bushes had taken off & trying to swing the Zed's coil among them was impossible to get down to the ground. So I headed off to the side of the workings & targeted the sheet bed rock. I was walking up a small gutter covered in grass growth when I got a good hit. Turned out to be a fragment of tin from an old tin matchbox. Moved on a few feet & got another good solid hit. Thinking it was just going to be the same I was surprised when the signal lived on down through the gravels to the schist bedrock. scrapping the bed rock the signal finally moved. A sassy little bit of gold. Ye Ha .69 of a gram That was a loner though as no more came to light. Nothing for Simon either. So after maybe a couple of hours I made the call to carry on with our hike. After probably another hour of walking we came to the workings that I wanted to get stuck into. Well bugger me. On getting there there were two other chaps in there detecting. One with a Zed & the other with what Simon said was a GB2. They weren't overly talkative & were probably pissed off that we had come along. Bugger I said to Simon. We moved up the workings a bit & dropped our packs & detectors. I said to Simon, lets just go for a walk over to the next gully & have a look. Did this, came back to our gear & these other two had packed up & were heading off further up. They had ridden up here on Electric mountain bikes & they were gone in a flash. I had contemplated an Electric mountain bike a few years earlier but the price of them put me off. Seeing how easy they just rode off up the hill did impress me. So I am looking at them now 6.5 & up to 12 grand is pretty daunting though. Few ounces of gold there. Any way....they were gone so we jumped "their" spot. I then noticed another chap walking up the hill with a detector. Bloody hell I said to Simon....check that out. 5 of us up here detecting. Never have I come across so many. I don't normally see another soul. He walked right up this gully & I moved off detecting to avoid him but he bailed Simon up & must have gassed to Simon for an hour. Wasting valuable detecting time. Simon said he kept trying to get away from him but he just kept on going. He had a 4500 so I think Simon may have picked his brains a bit. So it wasnt all a waste of time. Mean while I was getting a few rubbish signals & no gold. When Simon finally got into some detecting he just picked up right where he left off...with shot gun pellets ever step. I finally got a faint mellow signal. It lived on down a bit, more so than pellets , I did get my share but nowhere near as many as Simon. It was a small bit of gold. .09 of a gram I walked up past Simon, who had been targeting old turned over throw out piles. In this pic he was swinging the Gold Bug Pro & still getting more than his share of pellets. You will see his GM to the right lying in the thyme bushes & my Zed hard center left. After taking the pic I headed to that pile of stones back this way from Simon. Left click once to enlarge the pic. Let it refocus & left click again & it will go full screen for better detail. I got a faint but definite signal. I called Simon over & marked the spot with a light boot scrape. Said to Simon to try there. He got a faint hit. I scraped at it until it had moved. Simon pinpointed it for me & it was a tiny shotgun pellet size piece of gold. .06 of a gram Unbelievable. But that was it. I went off elsewhere leaving Simon to explore around there. But I got nothing more. Dark wasn't far off & l wondered back down using Simons noisy racket from his continued shotgun pellet signals screaming out from his GM as my homing in pigeon to locate him . Told him we had better make a move as we had a bit of a walk to get back to the car. Got back just on pitch black. Wouldn't have wanted to have been any later. There was a bit of stumbling & lurching as it was towards the end. Unfortunately Simon got skunked on the gold but made a fortune in lead. Three for the Zed for not even 1 gram. Simon now has his 4500 & a new Coiltek 10 x 5 Joey mono coil is on its way to him. Look out this Saturday. Cheers. Good luck out there JW
  19. 11 points
    Water, water everywhere, / Nor any drop to drink . . . (I apologize in advance for the length of this post. You super-pros will want to skip the first part of the story as it's written for the rookies.)Last Saturday was an interesting day indeed.The weather certainly was interesting. Mother Nature truly had dealt a mixed hand of cards: one minute the weather was sunny and warm; then it would cloud up and get cranky; the sky would darken like the face of some angry ancient god; heavy clouds, pregnant with the promise of rain would swirl overhead, releasing giant drops of icy water and sticky wet snow; then the wind would fill its lungs and blow a mighty series of gusts to clear the sky yet again. Spring, the season that imitates all other seasons, but imitates them only briefly; spring, the season that is the great imposter and yet the great bringer of hoped for change.As the weather cleared, I broke out my detecting gear. I'd packed the Gold Bug Pro and the Makro Gold Racer for the day; however, before I could head to the spot I'd chosen, I was approached by a young rookie that noticed what I was up to, and he wanted me to show him how to run a metal detector. He'd bought one for himself, but that day he was out without it, and he wondered if I could give him a few tips on what to do to set up a detector and how to go about finding gold.So, I set up the Gold Bug Pro for him, showed him how to ensure the coil wire connection was tight at the box to avoid falsing, how to secure the coil wire above the coil so it wouldn't false either, and how to ensure the connections on the coil rods were snug. Then I spent some time showing him how to ground balance. I spent a while on that subject with him so he understood how to do it properly, how to check to ensure there were no targets under the coil where he wanted to ground balance, some quick tips on EMI, etc. I gave him tips on keeping the coil level on his sweeps to avoid rising on the ends of the sweeps, how to overlap his sweeps for better coverage, how to keep the coil as close to the ground as possible to maximize detecting and target response, how to pinpoint by moving the coil 90 degrees to the original target response, and I also showed him how to do the coil "wiggle" to get the nose of the coil in the sweet zone for target recovery. Furthermore, I showed him how to properly set the threshold and sensitivity, how to adjust for EMI, and I walked him through the all-important aspect of investigating any slight break in the threshold as most of my targets are initially detected in that manner. As well, I instructed him on how to use a scoop, how to sift and sort a target in the scoop properly while using the coil to verify that the target was still in the scoop and how to use the coil to isolate the target by dropping material onto the coil. I also talked to him about the advantages of using a plastic pan for capturing multiple targets for later speed panning. In addition, I gave him my telescoping aluminum rod with the super-magnet on the end, and I went over the advantages of using it first, if he hit on a shallow signal, to quickly check if the target was ferrous or not.I turned him loose on the road and he soon had a signal. So, I went over everything with him again as he started on his target recovery, and he quickly had the target out of the hole. Well, it was a nail, not one from the 1800's, but a modern nail; regardless, he was a quick study, so I let him keep the detector to work the road for a bit, and he soon recovered several shavings of track and bucket steel.Because he was doing things exactly the way I'd instructed him to do, I was impressed (Lots of people I've tried to help learn to detect in the past have either misunderstood or ignored many of the tips I've given them, but not this guy: he was dialed-in and there to learn! It was easy to see his keen desire passion.). I watched him for a bit more, and he was ground balancing properly, using good sweep technique, slowing when he got a response, checking 90 degrees to the original signal, using the scoop properly for target recovery, and he'd really caught on how to use my extendable super-magnet-wand to eliminate shallow, ferrous targets.In fact, he was doing so well, that I invited him to check some bedrock. He soon had several more signals, all ferrous, but he was really doing great. So I said to him, "This section with the hump, the small area completely surrounded by water is virgin. Have at it." So, he went to detecting, and I went to setting up my Gold Racer. He'd call me over every once in a while to check some strange signals he was getting (hot rocks and cold rocks, so I instructed him on their various target ID aspects), and then he'd tear into detecting again. I fired up the Gold Racer and started checking a spot where an old crevice had once bottomed out.The rookie gave a shout and came a running! Now, as I've stated in other posts, "You can't make this stuff up!", he had his hand tightly closed around something, and that something was a nugget that was close to a gram in weight!! Well, I'll tell the world, he was some excited for sure. And, who wouldn't be! Rookie luck? Did he have a natural knack for it? Good questions, but regardless, he'd done it on his first outing ever. Quite remarkable actually, even if you factor in that I'd put him into a target rich environment, still remarkable as I've put others into similar settings in the past, and they've flown right over the nuggets and left disappointed.Do you think he's going to get out and give his detector a good run first chance he gets? Well, wild horses won't be able to stop him I'd say, because he had that dreamy look in his eye as he left, and all of us that chase the gold know what that look does to a person; it keeps the fires lit!I detected that little hump, with water, water everywhere, and got no gold. (I did however wade out into a couple of feet of water just beyond the hump and recover another small nugget.) So, the rookie got the only nugget in residence on that hump, but my day was just beginning.The spot I was working could best be described as small bedrock islands, water, water everywhere (and as it says in The Rime of The Ancient Mariner), Nor any drop to drink! (I certainly would never drink any of that standing water, so that's why I always pack a bunch along in my five-gallon multi-purpose mining bucket.Those plastic buckets are such handy items for toting all manner of prospecting items to a site!)Well, I carefully waded through a couple of feet of icy water and hit a bedrock rise. I slowly started working the bedrock with the Gold Racer. I soon had a soft signal that sounded like small gold. Just to be sure, I worked that spot carefully with the wand, but no ferrous. Then I took my small pick and scraped the surface, and sure enough, there was some clay riding on top. More scraping revealed some little rounded stones, iron-stained sand, and small bits of ironstone. I swept the spot again, and still the same soft, yet sweet tone. I then worked out material from all of the little cracks and crevices, tossed the material into my plastic pan, then swept the spot again. Still a soft tone, but not as loud, so more scraping with the pick and checking with the detector's coil until the area was completely silent.By this time, I had quite a collection of material in the pan. So, I waded into a deeper spot and panned it out. Well, lots of golden goodies in the pan were peeking out of the super-heavies, and as you can tell from the previous pictures, lots of small stuff, but pretty nonetheless. (Please remember that the purpose of the last two outings has been to deliberately target areas that I've either already swept with the Gold Bug Pro or to check virgin areas just to see what the Gold Racer can find.)To make a long story short, I kept at it for several hours while working those little bedrock islands, and I had many similar encounters with soft signals (with some of them broad in nature [some had great concentrations of fine gold!]) that had me doing lots of pick work to worry material from the bedrock until the detector went silent over the areas the Gold Racer had so expertly sniffed out. As I was about ready to pack up, I looked out at the water and noticed a boulder, about the size of a laundry basket, and thought, "What the heck, why not try to wade out to it if the water's not too deep?" So, I did.Well, the water was getting deep fast, and the tops of my boots just held the deluge at bay. Very careful not to swamp my boots, I slid the coil of the Gold Racer around the boulder, and eeep!, eeep! I had a solid tone, not a quiet signal like all of the others from earlier. Well, immediately the brain thinks ferrous, but the meter said gold. So, I wanded (hit it with my super-magnet wand [making up my own word?]) the area, no ferrous! Tiptoeing around the boulder to keep my feet dry, I started to work the signal underwater. (I've posted about the frustrating nature of trying to capture underwater targets before, and this outing was no exception.) However, after multiple failures, I finally had the target in the scoop along with a whack of clay and broken bedrock.I tiptoed back to shallower water, then hit the bedrock rise where I'd left my pan. I threw the material into the pan, worked the clay and bedrock material until it cooperated, then panned it down. Bam! A sassy nugget was revealed. A 3.5 gram little beauty! A keeper for sure, no catch-and-release with that one.I packed everything up and hiked or waded back to where I'd left my snacks and water. After a refreshing break, and because the sun was beginning to head west behind the mountain peaks, I broke down the Gold Racer and packed it away. I loaded my tools back into one of my buckets but noticed that my wand was missing! What the?!?Well, the last place I'd used it was way back where I'd found the nugget, so I fired up the Bug Pro and headed back across the bedrock wetlands to find my wand. On the way, I kept the Gold Bug Pro lit, and I let it sniff around underwater every time I had to wade. Three small nuggets later, I hit the bedrock rise adjacent to where I'd found the 3.5 gram nugget. There was my wand, right where I'd put it down when I'd panned out the contents from the scoop.Now, I find it curious how on a return trip to the exact same place I've already detected, the brain sharpens the eye's focus somehow and the eye notices details I've missed the first time around. This time was no exception.There was a small ledge, just above the water's edge, that held some iron-stained gravel and dark material. I couldn't remember having seen it on the first visit, but this time a switch had flipped for sure, and the old brain was screaming, "Run a coil over that spot you dummy!"So, I did, and EEEP!, EEEP!! Now, the Bug Pro really yells (unlike the Gold Racer) when it sinks its teeth into a meaty signal, and I'll tell you what, it surely had my attention. I scraped off all of the loose material, no target in the scoop, but I threw it in the pan just in case. I scanned again, and EEEP! Now, here was a bit of an enigma, wrapped in a bit of a mystery to boot. I was staring at solid black bedrock. So, just for the heck of it, I wanded the spot, but no friends.After I'd swept the area again and the meter was pinning close to 60, I carefully went to work with the pick and broke out some material. I grabbed it with my hand to put it in the pan, and the weight was more than the small amount of material should have been. A very black 4.7 gram nugget was resting in my palm.As for the material I'd tossed into my pan, there was good flake gold in it. I swept the edge of the bedrock and was rewarded with some nice soft signals, so I broke more bedrock until it went quiet, and then I panned it out: more pickers and flake gold, a nice catch.Well, darkness was not becoming "my old friend", especially as I had to wade to get out, so I abandoned my workings and headed back to the truck.What a great day! (For me and the rookie.)All the best,Lanny These pictures are of the combined find from both Saturday gold hunts, with the Friday coin hunts of both weekends added in:
  20. 11 points
    So...started working the second block of demolished housing on base, but the pickings were slim on that block. Too much debris from the homes that were torn down. Worked it for about two hours, and got a severe headache, so I headed home to Ibuprofen, and some rest. Couldn't go back due to my son coming home from school in an hour, so I decided to just hunt a couple of the vacant homes right across the street while I looked out for his bus. Surprise! The two front yards yielded their hidden treasures. So many more homes to go and the demolished areas as well! Changed up a bit today. Went with the factory setting for Park2, and only switched to 5 tones while I still get used to the 600's quirks. Today's take: Copper Pennies: 19 Clad Dimes: 5 Clad Quarters: 4 Nickels: One 1961 Fishing Lure: Side Winder in great condition Find of the day: 1957 Silver Quarter....found in the median strip between the sidewalk and street. BIG surprise seeing that silver color in the plug! Tomorrow it's family hunt day with my wife and son learning their ACE 300's and me swingin' the Nox! Surprise find where least expected:
  21. 11 points
    I am loving my Equinox 800 relic machine (soon to be my Equinox beach machine and my Equinox water machine and also my Equinox park and gold machine). Hit the PA site I lovingly refer to as the relic hunter's amusement park which has been the site at which I have obtained several firsts and bucket listers including my first CW plate of any kind which I posted a few weeks ago. I have hunted it the last few times with the Equinox and it sets up well for that machine. For relic hunting, I generally favor Field 2 at the default settings. I have been experimenting also with Park 2. While the default settings for both are similar, there is definitely a difference in the underlying Multi IQ secret sauce based on the way the targets sound and also the way they hit the targets. I found Park 2 to hit a little bit harder on higher conductors, but this could just be my imagination. In this field, I like the Field 2 disc breakpoint at 2 because hot "rocks" in this field (from steam tractor coke tailings) come in at 1 consistently, and the Field 2 breakpoint is 2 vice 9 for Park 2. This is somewhat of a moot point because I generally run All Metal, but occasionally cut in disc when my brain needs a break and just listen for high tones. But the jury is still out as far as I'm concerned as to which of those modes I prefer most for relic hunting. I set up the machine to have the "main" program be Park 2, but with some Iron Bias cut in (3). I have Field 2 loaded up in the User Profile slot without modification from the defaults. In this manner I have a setup where I can quickly interrogate a target with or without iron bias with just a press of the User Profile button. Works great. I also cut in GB tracking for both modes in this hunt. The field has mild mineralizaation and Ground Phase variations typically seen in a plowed field with different crops and it worked well. Well, Equinox delivered once again. Scored a beautiful 1858 Seated Dime (she turns 160 this year, no wonder she is sitting down) and my first Rifleman's Eagle Button ("Eagle R"). Rounded out the hunt with a minie ball, a Williams Type III "cleaner" minie ball (my first Type III), and another Eagle button. Not shown are a 1936 Wheatie and various tiny non-ferrous odds and ends including lead, brass, and copper fragments. Pulled some large ferrous objects too as I had the time to chase some iffy signals and did so. Large, flat iron rings high and forces me to investigate, but in all metal, you can hear the iron grunt too and know you are likely digging some iron and not a masked keeper. But if you have the time...dig 'em because you never know... The site really helps, I have had success here with the Deus as well, but no doubt the Equinox can, will, and has delivered the goods and I gain more confidence with it in every successive outing. HH
  22. 11 points
    Phrunt, the developments I have mentioned in regard to the QED have been mainly cosmetic, with improvements to the battery compartment, exterior wiring, and the stem and handle. A couple of improvements have also been made to the functions, the model that Steve has been kind enough to show is the current model, with the Detech carbon fiber collapsible handle and stem. When first introduced in early 2017 the QED was available in a DIY format where you could purchase just the control box and add your own choice of battery, stem and handle, and coil. The QED will operate with any Minelab or aftermarket (Coiltek, Nuggetfinder etc) PI coil, giving you a great range to choose from, and operates well on all sizes provided they are mono. If you use a DD it will operate only on one D. Electronic updates have been provided free, with a charge only for freight. The control box is quite small and light, and is all that is required for updates, with turnaround times being very fast. The QED has auto ground balance, but not auto ground tracking. It is a manual GB machine, but in saying this it is quite forgiving, requiring only occasional re ground balancing. It does not have discrimination, and is primarily a gold hunting machine, although recently tested on a beach in Nha Trang, Vietnam where it performed really well. Howard has added a beach function in the current model, and you can detect from dry to wet sand with no problem, and no change in performance. Several coins were found in only a short time of testing. I hope this has been informative, and that the QED will soon be available to gold hunters in the USA. In closing I would just like to state that I have no financial interest in the QED, but would like to see it get the recognition that it and its inventor deserve. Cheers, Reg.
  23. 10 points
    Not a chance. That website specializes in spreading misinformation and stirring the pot. Here is the thread that started it all. By a first time poster on Dankowskis. I follow all the Equinox forums etc. and have never seen this brought up as an issue anywhere else. I think the worst possible thing everyone can do is start pulling batteries and messing with things. If you do nothing and the Equinox leaks, you are covered under warranty. Pull the batteries and add silicone, and now if it leaks you have provided evidence of tampering and likely rejection of the warranty claim. My advice is don’t fix what ain’t broke.
  24. 10 points
    Yes I had a screen protector other than that I have made no modifications. I guesstimated the amount of times I used the pinpoint mode. As of yesterday I topped over $200 in clad. I get probably 3 quarters to every dime and usually average 10 pennies per hunt. I am guessing I dug over 1600 targets and used pinpoint 800 times. If it is a real shallow coin I use the wiggles method or I just use my TRX to pinpoint it if I get a beep or vibrate. If not I use the pinpoint mode on the detector. About 50% of the time the coins are 4" or deeper so I go to pinpoint mode on the detector. 800 times in 42 days is a lot of pinpointing and 1600 times dropping to my knees to dig a plug is even more. I never use a shovel unless in an open field so my lesche trowel gets a lot of use. I have to sharpen it again because I been in some really dry and hard soil. Since I hunt everyday for at least 2 hours and some days I do 2 two hour hunts and have had great success in parks with lots of coins I probably use my pinpoint more in 6 weeks than most guys do in 2 years or more. Now a word about Minelab customer service. I wrote last night and I had a shipping label by 8:23 this morning. I also wrote a detailed letter to Minelab explaining how I hunt and how often I used pinpoint to help them understand what went wrong. I am in no way upset since this is a new product on the market. Actually as a gesture of good faith I am getting an Equinox T-shirt from Minelab. My experience with Metal Detector Manufacturers has been nothing but great. Hard to find companies that care about their customers as much and Metal Detector Manufacturers. I am not even frustrated this time because I have my 600 as backup. I am a bit upset because my E-800 does not get frequent flier miles from UPS.
  25. 10 points
    My neighbor has been coming over my house asking for a snow shovel I have since he knows I'm moving. Saturday he came over and I gave it to him and asked if I can detect his front yard quickly. My neighborhood was built in the 50's and I've found silver in almost every yard I've been to. My first target was a 28/29 and sounded like it was right on top of the ground. I dug down a little and saw a silver edge and grabbed the coin and I didn't realize what it was at first but I saw the queen and a date and realized it was a Canadian quarter, 1963. That's all the good stuff I found there Later that night I went back to the baseball field that I found the white gold band in and got this horrible sounding signal (Park 1, 50 Tones) I thought it was just big iron so I dug it to see if I was right. It was down pretty deep and when I got it out it was still not a great sounding signal but then I realized why. It was on edge and I was catching it off the edge of the coil, not in the center. Again I pulled it out and saw a silver rim, this time it was a 1952 Washington quarter. I also found 2 junk earrings about 3 feet apart, the first one I found rang up as 18 and I swept around that area and got another solid 18 and dug the other earring. Pretty funny that I found both but I used the ID from one to determine where the other one was. On Sunday I went to an old baseball field (on the 1940's map) that's kind of overgrown now. My cousin just got an equinox 600 and I was helping him out trying to learn it. He yells over to me "What's a 17" I said I have no idea but if its solid dig it. He did and yelled over that is was a 1943 P nickel. I was telling him how awesome it was that he dug that and that it was a coin that was still eluding me. Then right after I said that I got a solid 14 and dug it and it ended up being a 1942 P nickel, sweet! About 5 steps back I got a 25/26/27 signal and was hoping for a silver dime and out popped a 1924 Merc. After that I walked to where I thought the infield was and got a solid 12. I thought maybe an older nickel but out popped another 1942 P war nickel. Now that's 3 that all rang up different. We were both in Park 1. He was in 5 tones and I was in 50. Later on I got a solid 18 and got a shield with a cross, fleur de lys and lions on it. I typed that into google when I got home and it turns out it was part of a brooch from the 60's. Last, I got a 20/21 but it was reading deeper so I dug it and it ended up being an old toy car. Here are some shots...If you've read this far and are interested in the car it's all yours. Otherwise I'll probably toss it...Oh, my cousin also found a flat button with loop on back (shank I think it's called) that rang up a solid 22 he said. I dont have a picture of that though