Jump to content

GB_Amateur

Members
  • Content count

    407
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

GB_Amateur last won the day on November 6

GB_Amateur had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

383 Excellent

2 Followers

About GB_Amateur

  • Rank
    Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Southern Indiana
  • Interests:
    Any and all metal detecting; geology of gold
  • Gear Used:
    Fisher Gold Bug Pro, White's TDI/SPP, Minelab X-Terra 705, Fisher F75 Black, White's TRX, White's ProStar

Recent Profile Visitors

1,771 profile views
  1. Equinox Weight & Balance

    What is the correct feet--coil distance and what is the correct elbow angle? I'm probably doing it wrong, too. I'm pretty sure I'm causing my back extra stress and I don't even have heavy detectors.
  2. AT Pro For Gold Detecting???

    Others have recommending switching your brand prefernce, and I'm not going to weigh in on that. But if you're sticking with a Garrett you'll be better off with the AT-Gold for finding nuggets. It also will find coins, jewelry, and relics. (KG and Ringy from the US TV show Diggers, who are supplied/sponsored by Garrett, chose the AT-Gold over the AT-Pro for their relic hunting.) Biggest downside vs. Pro is that it won't work in salt water (but it will perform in fresh water). Here is a comparison chart, including the new AT-Max, which Steve posted recently: Also you'd be wise to carefully read through Steve's reviews. He mostly covers gold detectors there so you won't find the AT-Pro, but the AT-Gold is reviewed and receives good marks: http://www.detectorprospector.com/gold-prospecting-equipment/metal-detectors-metal-detecting-accessories.htm Since your budget is limited you should consider buying a used detector, for example on Ebay.
  3. Need Help With Possible Meteorite ID

    http://meteorites.wustl.edu/realities.htm Don't be put off by the 'commentary'. This seems like a pretty good DiY meteorite identifier site. A ton of info including lots of photos.
  4. It's not obvious to me that this is true. It does appear as though there's a slight 'ding' (warning: not official numismatic lingo) on the cheek but the overall grade looks similar. Anyway, just a fantastic find. Did you post more info (here or elsewhere) you can link to? In particular I'm wondering what detector you found this with. Upon further review: I think your 1858-S is closer to VF-35 and Cal_Cobra's 1865-S between EF-40 and EF-45. Still, it's up to the professional graders to make the final call. (Even they don't always agree, as has been shown by people resubmitting coins for grading.) Here's the place to go to try one's own hand at grading. That's what I just used: https://www.pcgs.com/Photograde/#/5Lib/Grades
  5. Now I know I'm moving to California. Survival estimate on that one is only 275. (Note there are large uncertainties on these survival esimates, but still.) What was its condition? Back to that rare $5 gold piece. I wonder how it got to be there in the first place. Did people really walk around the gold coins in their pockets? $1 maybe (but these are so darn tiny it seems like you'd have trouble finding them when you needed to spend one). I always figured that finding gold coins was mainly done by finding caches -- intentionally stored/hidden coins, not accidentally dropped ones. Apparently -- from what I've read -- even (silver) dollars weren't carried by individuals much in the East because of their bulkiness, at least after official US paper money was issued. From the same article/book, though, it points out that in the US West there was less trust in paper money so dollar coins were more common. Still, the fact that most of the Morgan silver dollars never made it into circulation (and were either melted or stored until the 1960's when they were made available to collectors) is a sign that in general they weren't popular. Gold denominations were likely (just my opinion) even less circulated, at least partly because those denominations were a lot of money in the 1800's. If you compare the conditions of surviving silver coins to surviving gold coins you get some evidence for this. Most surviving silver coins (Morgan dollars a possible exception) are in low grades whereas gold coins tend to be in high grades. I'm still fascinated you've found such rarities. You have to be in the 99.99th percentile of coin hunters to have found even one of such rarities. Two of them? Wow! Want to share with me that location? Just post it here, I won't tell anyone.
  6. Multi-IQ Frequencies & Tones

    Correct, you are mistaken. The number of tones and the number of (radio) transmit frequencies have no relationship whatsoever. (Correction: I thought you were talking about the Minelab Equinox and my response was regarding that dectector. All I know about the Minelab Excalibur is that it is highly regarded by many underwater detectorists. I've never seen one in person, only a few on treasure hunting TV shows.) From what I've read here, that is exactly it, nothing more and nothing less. I don't know any more than what I've read here on this forum, and if others know more than what has been posted here they aren't talking. As mentioned in my previous post, a lot has been written in this http://www.detectorprospector.com/forum/forum/53-minelab-equinox-fan-club/ sub-forum, and most of the informative posts are those done by Steve because he is one of very few worldwide who actually has a prototype and one of even fewer (among those) who has posted info on the performance.
  7. Maybe every detectorist in California. Got any room in that state for one more? The 1858-S is almost twice as rare according to its estimate of 45 in existance. (Do they know about yours??) Coins this rare just don't 'appear' often. For comparison sake note that the very desirable/coveted 1916-D Mercury Dime has an estimated survival of 10,000. Understandably most of those are in the lower grades. http://www.pcgscoinfacts.com/Coin/Detail/4906 You guys are to be envied (and I'm doing that right now)!
  8. Multi-IQ Frequencies & Tones

    There are a lot of threads on this <Minelab Equinox Fan Club> sub-forum. If you haven't looked through them I suggest at least a quick scan of each. Tons of info posted by Steve. Unfortuantely 'frequency' is often used without a qualifer and it can be confusing, for me particularly. The reason I have trouble is because an Inductance Balance (IB for short, which includes all true VLF detectors and sometimes detectors labeled VLF which aren't operated in the 3 kHz to 30 kHz range) transmits radio frequency signals. Even Pulse Induction (PI) detectors pulse at a regular rate which technically also qualifies as frequency. But the real overlap in terms is audio frequency (sometimes called 'pitch') which is where the 50 tones on the Equinox comes in. Here is a thread (one of several) which illustrates the five radio frequency transmissions of the Equinox:
  9. You've reminded me that I need to review some of my literature, including the detector manuals. It usually takes me 3 or 4 readings (with usage in between) to really get everything out of a manual/book/article. With the long, dark, cold days ahead here in the northern hemisphere (well, for most of us in this half of the planet) I'm going to read for the 2nd/3rd time the following: http://www.detectorprospector.com/gold-prospecting-equipment/book-fists-full-of-gold.htm And it's a great Christmas gift for anyone interested in gold, where you can find it, and how to extract it. Chris is a contributor here and a prolific writer and editor of the ICMJ journal. It would be hard to find someone who knows more about finding gold than he does. Top that off with the fact that he conveys the information very well in his writings.
  10. If you haven't read the following, It comes highly recommended. Written by one of the design engineers of the Gold Bug, and in fact a design engineer for many gold detectors over his 35+ year career. http://www.fisherlab.com/hobby/davejohnson/DavesGoldbook-reders.pdf
  11. Not silly at all. The dial ID reading (some call it a 'speedometer') on the Gold Bug family of detectors uses the discrimination circuitry. As such it's not as sensitive as the all-metal (first derivate) ciruitry. So weak signals won't give a reading on the dial. Typcically the ground phase will drop on a conductive target (including iron but also including positive hot rocks). So this is a good sign in general but specifics (especially in widely varying ground) can complicate things. I have used the lowering of the ground phase for weak signals as an indication to dig. Gold detectors (I think it's every one) are meant to signal when the threshold sound changes. (Obviously this requires you to set up a low volume threshold. Kevin Hoagland says "you want the threshold to sound like a mosquito buzzing around your ear.") Even with strong enough signals to get a dial reading on the Gold Bug, gold can be all over the map, including in the upper iron range (i.e. 30's). From what I've read and heard, most successful gold hunters (fossikers?) hunt by ear most of the time. Others here can give you better instruction on that. Bottom line is your detector is working and you are working to try and understand what it's telling you. Keep it up!
  12. Good deal at Sam's Club: https://www.samsclub.com/sams/24in-protective-case-member-s-mark/prod21372505.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1 Apparently not carried in all brick-and-mortar Sam's Club stores but mine has them on sale for $40. Below is a picture showing it next to my ($150 from Amazon) smaller Pelican case. Note the long lower shaft from a White's TDI (26.75 inch length) which fits diagonally in this larger case. I had to improvise when travelling with my TDI and the Pelican. (Despite what my cat thinks, these are not qualified as a cat carriers!) The Pelican shown is allowed as carry-on although I haven't used it as such. The main value to me is that most cases can be damaged by rough (human) baggage handlers of checked luggage. Both of these came filled with polyfoam blocks. The retractable handle on the Sam's Club case seems a lot cheesier than the one on the Pelican. The Pelican wheel housings are more recessed (so less likely to break off with rough treatment). Other than those they appear to be of similar quality. NOTE: I don't think it is as well made as a Pelican case in the fine details, but I think it would do the job of transporting metal detectors, for example, just as well. I've travelled with both the White's TDI/SPP and Gold Bug Pro simultaneously packed in the Pelican, with two coils each, extra batteries, Lesche hand spade, etc. (Exception being the long lower rod section of the TDI as mentioned above.) I'm thinking I may be able to get three detectors into this larger case. ("How many detectors do you need??" I'll answer that when I have enough!)
  13. I missed seeing what detector you found this with? Could you remind me? This is worthy of an article in one of the hardcopy magazines such as Western and Eastern Treasures or Lost Treasure. It also would likely be highlighted by the detector manufacturer in their newsletters, webpages, etc. It could even make the mainstream media. That's just how impressive this find is, IMO.
  14. Northeast And The GM 1000

    And that coin even more so. The swastika has been around for millenia in one form or another. You can read until your eyes tire here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swastika#Historical_use
×