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GB_Amateur last won the day on July 10 2016

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About GB_Amateur

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    Copper Member
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  • Location:
    Southern Indiana
  • Interests:
    Any and all metal detecting; geology of gold
  • Gear Used:
    Fisher Gold Bug Pro, White's TDI/SPP, Minelab X-Terra 705

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  1. Of the various things I've attempted in my life, Rudyard Kiplings poem 'If' has applied to every one of them. My favorite line in that poem (of which every line is powerful): If you can meet with triumph and disaster, and treat those two imposters just the same
  2. Agree. But actually my concern was a price increase in the near future from the market $190 (compared to the market $290 that Coiltek retailers were charging). As has been mentioned here before, price reflects more on what the sellers feel the market will bear than the manufacturing+marketing costs. Maybe it's $50 cost for them.... Just bought a used Coiltek, so I should be good-to-go. Thanks for the helpful responses.
  3. Thanks, Bryan. This is exactly the kind of response I was hoping to get here. Show me a site that even comes close in cooperation/assistance among members! What makes me a bit concerned is this: I can understand why Coiltek&Minelab would go into a cooperative agreement here. Coiltek apparently has a superior product and Minelab has the marketing and sales network. What I don't understand (and thus makes me suspicious) is why the price went down so drastically. One thing I've noticed about coils (not necessarily tied to one manufacturer) is how the prices fluctuate. And it's not just the downward direction. It's Minelab's business and decision to set the prices where they feel they will make the most profit in the short run and long term, and we've seen this in the past; it's no secret. But are they going to continue to sell a coil they don't build (and thus share the profit) at 2/3 of what Coiltek was asking, or is this just a hidden introductory offer?
  4. A couple things to consider given your choice: 1) Used ones sell frequently on Ebay for $1500 and occasionally less. One advantage to buying used is that often you can pick one with the exact coil you want, instead of the factory/box stock coil. 2) Steve wrote an article in the January 2016 ICMJ Prospecting and Mining Journal titled "Detector Prospecting Accessories" and the second paragraph begins "One of the first things to consider but that many people ignore is ergonomics." He goes on to describe methods of reducing the arm/elbow/wrist/hand stress. In fact on the first page (page 10) is a picture of Steve loaded down with a Garrett ATX. I don't know for sure, but think the ATX is the heaviest treasure detector on the market. (I qualify 'treasure' to set it apart from military land mine detectors.) 3) To continue on the ergonomics topic, although on the webpage Steve references above he indicates the ATX control box is not hip-mountable, I seem to recall somewhere links/references to article(s) where others have done so (without Garrett's blessing, of course...). However, balance is also a key component so if/when you remove the control box you still need to alleviate the heavy searchcoil torquing the shaft. Where there's a will there's a way. If you're in water you gain the advantage of (upward) buoyant force, but on land, 6.9 lb is nothing to take lightly (another pun :) so I recommend finding a solution equal to or similar to those mentioned above.
  5. I'm considering buying (yet) another coil for my ML X-terra 705 -- 15 inch DD operating at 3kHz. Often Minelab and Coiltek offer complementary (different size/frequency/winding) coils, but in some cases, as what I'm considering, they offer coils that appear to be quite similar. Given that the Coiltek costs about 50% more, I'm wondering if I should apply the "you get what you pay for" standard advice or save $100 for a future coil purchase.
  6. It's surprising to me how appropriate this book still is, and just imagine the reaction of a young person who thinks everything worth reading is on the internet (or Facebook or Twitter -- gag) and been written in the last few weeks. I can't find a date on mine but it highlights the Whites 5900 DI and 6000 DI detectors, so I'm thinking > 20 years old. Thanks for this post, Mike. I like learning by reading, and when it's cold and dark outside (like now) it's the best option I have. Those other books were just added to my wishlist.
  7. If the word gets around (and it might), I predict a boom in detector sales in the US. I'd be thrilled with a random 5% of your finds for a year. I agree with the first part. However, for me, any silver (coin or jewelry) fits in the 'quality' category. I have a couple questions: 1) How many hours (or if easier, days) did you spend finding all this stuff. (Sorry if you said that already and I missed it -- I may have been too busy looking at all the pretty pictures.) 2) Based upon the number of mintmarked 1909-1915 Wheaties, I'm wondering if you found some kind of timewarp zone (for lack of a better term). I.e. were you in a place(s) that was preferentially visited during that time period, such as an old church/park that was closed in the late teens. Do you have a count of the number of non-mintmarked Wheaties that you found last year that were minted in that decade?
  8. Hey, Joe. I know Westminster (used to live at 72nd & Samuel Dr., but that was long ago in 1980) and I know the feeling of warm weather turning to bitter cold overnight. Do you belong to the Eureka Treasure Hunters Club ( Still wonder why modern detectors don't have bigfoot (style) coils as an option. They're "no contest" in contests, and sounds like they do great with recently dropped treasures.
  9. One button to toggle between all-metal and discriminate. Got it right = Minelab X-terra 705. Got it wrong = Fisher Gold Bug where you have to re-adjust threshold of all-metal every time you change from discriminate to all-metal. What were they thinking? (Except for that I love my Gold Bug Pro.) If knobs are installed, they should either be a) out-of-the-way, or b) lockable. Got it wrong = Whites TDI (which otherwise I really like). Got it right = ?? Both screen view and (multi-tone, at least for coin and jewelry; less important for native gold) sound have their place in my toolbox. Since I wear bifocals, it's straining on my neck to have to look down at the screen too often. But seeing a 2 digit ID is helpful (really like GB Pro full 2-digit 1-99 discrimination scale). As far as screen readout features, I'd sure like to try out the Whites V3i with all its bells and whistles. (Again, these features are more valuable to coin and jewelry hunters.) You hear/read plenty of "don't need that; never use it", but detecting in iron infested sites I'd like all the info I can get. Weight -- keep it light!!!!!!!!!!! If I can find a detector that does the job, even if not the absolute best job, I'm likely going with it (and I have). So far my arsenal has a 3 lb max limit (at least for small coils) and I'd like to keep it that way. Got it right = many (VLF's) and Whites TDI/SL (PI). Balance -- does anyone make a detector with adjustable balance for when coils are changed? Movable control box, movable battery box,.., seems like there are ways to do this (and in fact I have when tinkering with my TDI/SPP).
  10. Excellent video, and of course appropriate to many branches of metal detecting. I always try and determine the age of finds, not only because, as mentioned in the video, to improve one's knowledge -- leading to improved quality of finds -- but also because I enjoy history. Sometimes we're lucky enough to have dates (besides on coins), often patent dates. Most of the time, as in the video, it comes down to figuring out when an item was in common use. One of my favorite trash finds in parks is the ring-and-beavertail pulltab, which dates its loss to the 1965-75 time window (as Jason mentions). Because older detectors weren't so good at discrimination, these should have been dug up back in the 70's-80's and even 90's. Even with today's detectors, because the r&b pulltab shapes vary (with bending and broken off parts) the ID can vary enough to overlap coins, especially if you're in a site which might have the full range of 19th Century US coinage. Bottom line is if you find trash others should have found, then either you're doing something different (and better) than what they did, or they haven't even been there. Win-win!
  11. Glad that worked for you. Here is what it says in my Garrett Pro-Pointer AT (aka "carrot") owner's manual: "When the battery becomes low, the detector will sound an alternating dual-tone alarm. Replace the 9V battery as soon as possible." Sounds simple and obvious. Except users such as yourself, Cabin Fever, my sister, and I have all experienced different behavior than the manual describes, then changing the battery and having it be just fine afterward. Apparently it starts acting flaky before the battery is low enough to cause the unit to emit the dual-tone alarm. Great device; don't leave home without. But be careful getting it too close to your horse's mouth!
  12. I think you can safely replace the word 'Geotech' with 'internet' and everything else you say is 100% valid, IMO. Unfortunately there isn't a 'driver's test' required before allowing someone to use it. And we're seeing the results at an alarming level.
  13. Informative review of all kinds of rechargeable batteries: Might answer some of your questions.
  14. Here's a decent article, written some time ago (I think last updated in 2014) which talks about the state-of-the-art at that time and a homebuilt solution similar to Goldgetter's above. Since then we have more universal, commercial solutions such as Deteknix and now Garrett products. Last year I considered going the Sennheiser route but decided Deteknix was just as cheap and I wouldn't be "rolling my own". Now I'm going to get the Garrett and use my own (comfortable!) headphones.
  15. Not trying to clog up the forum with ebay item(s), but this looks like a hard-to-find item someone here might want: Never seen one of these myself and have never heard of this company (if 'Cannon' is actually a company name -- maybe it's not). Says 17 microsecond or longer delay is recommended, which takes it out of my wheelhouse since my TDI/SPP is locked at 10 us.