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GB_Amateur

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GB_Amateur last won the day on July 10 2016

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About GB_Amateur

  • Rank
    Silver Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Southern Indiana
  • Interests:
    Any and all metal detecting; geology of gold
  • Gear Used:
    Fisher Gold Bug Pro, White's TDI/SPP, Minelab X-Terra 705, Fisher F75 Black

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  1. Usb Camera Again

    Don't know if it matters, but here's the link through Ebay(US), just in case you're in North America and don't want to wait a couple months while your package travels half way around the world and then back. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2MP-20x-200x-Zoom-8-LED-Digital-Microscope-Endoscope-Camera-Magnifier-USB-2-0-/121968217513?hash=item1c65df4da9:g:6VMAAOSwiYFXH2OP
  2. I stand corrected. By 1738 they obviously were using better presses, dies, equipment in general. So your slug has a chance of being the real deal ('real' as in 'authentic' not Re-al, the spanish denomination. Then it's only half-real? ) You seem to have gotten into a good relationship with that Infinium since you purchased it earlier this year. Well done. Goes to show one doesn't need a $5k PI to find good stuff. Hope you have a true 18th Century or earlier Spanish coin there, even if it's deteriorated to the point of no detail. Always fun to pull things from the ground that were lost over a century ago. Certainly thrills me on the rare occasions I do that, and Spanish shipwreck treasures are way more 'romantic' than what I've found.
  3. Intriguing, for sure. It seems quite circular. Aren't the early Spanish American-Colonial coins way out-of-round? Does it ID close to the dime? (Looks a bit smaller than the dime, but if silver it should still hit pretty high.)
  4. Target Masking

    Got out for 6 hours today (which is about my limit, currently) running the Fisher F75. I started with the 5 inch DD at gain of 50 in a schoolyard which has produced Wheats and one Merc. It's typically not that noisy (in terms of iron) and I decided to switch to the 5x10 concentric after about 1.5 hours. That didn't help. I ended up finding several modern coins (clads, Zincolns, and copper Memorials) but nothing with age after a total of 3.5 hours. The last 1/3 of the day I switched to a 43 year old park established on a piece of property oringinally composed of two 19th century homesteads. I went back to the 5 inch DD and after about 30 minutes with a gain of 50 I decided to drop to 40. (Note: max gain on the F75 is 99). I was searching in my most hunted (by me) section which has produced a Merc and and a couple Indian Head pennies, where I've been at least half a dozen times with all my IB/VLF's. I ran mostly in FA(st) process but occasionally I switch to other processes and even into all-metal to get a better reading on ID, location, etc. What I noticed (and it's not a figment of my imagination) was that with the lower gain I was getting more clear non-ferrous signals. That doesn't guarantee a non-ferrous target since (for example) vertical nails will masquerade as solid non-ferrous in my experience. But I was digging non-ferrous (unfortunately nothing either old or valuable) that I have passed over previously. BTW, my F75 ground balance is in the ballpark of 60 (between 56 and 64 depending upon location) at all my sites. I consider that mild to moderate but you be the judge. (Different values but similar quality ground balance figures with my other VLF's as well.) Another thing I notice with the gain lowered: the FA(st) process of the F75 has fantastic recovery time. I'm sure experienced F75 users know this, but when you see (for example) the video from England last month of the Equinox ripping through a series of closely spaced nails, I gotta say the 8 year old F75 can do that, too, without a hickup. In extremely noisy (again I mean loaded with iron) soil it sounds like an automatic weapon going off. Unfortunately I don't have any prize trophies to show (so far) with my new settings. So in some sense this is a hollow post. They will come. Again I thank all those here on this site who have enlightened me on the complications, challenges, and solutions of hunting in heavily iron enfested locations. I just wish&hope I can pay you back.
  5. Seems like you're off a couple decimal places. 1 ft/s = 0.6818 mi/hr. So 850 ft/s = 580 mi/hr. Or am I misinterpreting how/what you are measuring? Are the units ft/minute?
  6. 3"x6" DD Vs. 5" Round DD For Vlf?

    Thanks for the detailed reply. Here by "10x5 elliptical" do you mean the open concentric or the closed DD?
  7. My New Commute - Sigh

    Hey, could be worse. You could be driving by seeing an excavator loading them into a dumptruck while a bulldozer levels the land and covers it with fill! "...So, there's a chance..."
  8. A Good Month

    No posts yet from our European members here. I would think they are in better position to tell you what your button is, given its decoration. To me it appears to be an ancient (possibly Roman) coin. The key word is 'appears'. Let's go from there into a little more detail. 1) Buttons typically are decorated on the outer face and either blank or with manufacturer ID on the inner face. This is decorated on both. That makes me think it wasn't initally meant to be button but was later converted to one. 2) For coins in modern circulation, made by governments, there is a law discouraging copying (counterfeiting). If the government overseeing the coin's mintage either goes away or decides the coin is obsolete (and thus carries no value outside of intrinsic metal or collector value), you typically can get away with copying it. That seems to happen with ancient (for example Greek and Roman Empire) coinage, as well as Far Eastern coins of antiquity. So putting 1) and 2) together, my best guess is that your button was made from a replica of an ancient coin. However, it might be the real deal. If so, does that make it valuable? Possibly, but it would have to be a quite rare and collectible coin to begin with. Its value will have been severely reduced because of its modification and anything short of very rare and collectible would have rendered it worthless (except metal content, of course, as well as among button collectors, but I wouldn't hold my breath on the latter). I'm pretty sure there are certain coins from the Roman Empire which are worth only a (US) buck or so, and maybe not even that. (Again, some of our European members here who specialize in these kinds of finds can correct me and give more detail.) The reason is they are quite common and there isn't high demand for them among the collectors. So even if your button is an authentic ancient coin it probably isn't valuable. But then there's the "...on the other hand..." clause which keeps many of us going out week after week with detector in hand and optimism in brain.
  9. 3"x6" DD Vs. 5" Round DD For Vlf?

    Yes, in the heavy iron infestations. If the iron isn't so bad I use the 5x10 concentric. I use the 7x11 the least, but it's a good coil and the deepest. Given its size and my style of hunting, I need to be in pretty quiet ground (meaning few nails) to be able to take advantage of the depth. Thus it stays in the cabinet most of the time. Now I say that probably having run all these coils at too high of a gain for the sites I'm hunting. But from what I've read and experienced, the more iron, the smaller the coil that works best. I'm getting a lot of good responses. I think I'll sit tight with what I've got for a while. I have a couple other detecting purchases on my list so I'll move those up and a tiny F75 coil down for now. Thanks to everyone for your info and advice, but don't let me silence anyone. I'm still listening....
  10. I have the Fisher F75 black which comes with both the standard 7in X 11in DD and the 5 inch round DD. They also make a 3 in X 6 in DD (among others). I like coils but don't like wasting $. My question is simply: "Is it likely I'll be able to see much difference (in the positive direction, that is!) if I buy the 3x6?" I have read a couple posts on another forum reviewing the F75 3x6 coil positively, but I don't know if those people actually had the 5 inch for comparison. BTW, I'd be happy to hear responses from those who have used 3x6 coils, whether or not they've used the Fisher. For example, the White's MXT has both a 3x6 and a 5.3 (the latter a concentric, though).
  11. XP Answer To Minelab??????

    Did it happen to get posted on October 1? That's the Anti-April-Fools Day.
  12. Quest For Silver

    Excellent post, Tim. This sounds very much like a site I've been hunting this summer (and maybe again this weekend) -- new school built in the early 90's to replace a much older one (don't know how old...). I've found a few Wheats and one Merc. Here are my impressions of your site: 1) Finding Wheats is a great marker, IMO. I can't imagine many detectorists who refuse to dig copper coins but then have the ability to instead select silver dimes. The ID's are so close (on my detectors anyway) that trying to distinguish would seem to be hopeless. Thus I think you should find silver dimes where you're finding wheats. There just aren't as many of them. This summer at various sites I've found about 40 Wheats and five silver dimes -- that's an 8::1 ratio in this small sample. So just continuing to go over that area which has produced wheats could produce more goodies. 2) Again, from my experience at the site mentioned above, the street sides of the location of the old school are where I've found most of my oldies. In my case there was less excavation/backfill done there. Any old indicators (old trees, old sidewalks, etc.) are good places to search. Another 'trick' is to look for uneven ground (especially sloped) where water has caused some erosion. This can expose deeper old ground and even turn some buried coins into surface coins. I can't tell from the photo how flat the area you are searching is. 3) I like Cabin Fever's recommendation of searching near those houses. That is far away from both the new school and the old school, possibly meaning there wasn't much excavation done there when they tore down the old school and built the new one. I agree with you that sometimes backfill brings in old stuff, but more often than not it adds too much baren overburden to good ground making the old stuff way too deep for detection. Good fortune in your next hunt(s) there. Don't discount the wheaties (there may be some scarce dates+mintmarks among them!) and hope you find some silver.
  13. Need Suggestions - Selling Gold Coins

    There is an organization known as the Professional Numismatics Guild which has extremely strict requirements on ethics. There are, of course, a lot of honest, ethical coin dealers who don't belong the PNG, but the chances of getting ripped off by a PNG member should be next to nil. If you don't have time to shop around, this would be you best option, IMO. They may not necessarily be in the position/need to buy you coins but I'm sure under the circumstances they would be happy to give you some indication of value and likely recommend someone who would want to buy them. I searched thru their website (pngdealers.org) for PNG members in AZ and found these four. The first guy (Grovich) sounds like the right guy, but I don't know how close you are to Carefree (which I think is ~25 miles north of Scottsdale). The others could certainly advise and very likely appraise if they aren't interested in buying. Even if you aren't in driving distance I would at least call and tell them of your situation. They will help. Nicholas Grovich Member No. 553 Since 12/31/1997 American Federal Rare Coin & Bullion P.O. Box 5810 Carefree, AZ 85377-5810 United States Hours: 8am-5pm MST Phone: (800) 221-7694, (480) 553-5282 Fax: (480) 553-5290 eMail: nick@americanfederal.com Website: http://americanfederal.com, Specialties: We trade in all types of gold, silver and platinum bullion. We specialize in buying and selling both rare and bullion type coins. Cash offers. We purchase all types of coins from Indian cents to proof gold. We will travel to inspect collections and pay on the spot, or you can take advantage of our Consignment Program. Cory Frampton Member No. 682 Since 08/09/2010 World Numismatics LLC P. O. Box 5270 Carefree, AZ 85377 United States Hours: 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri Phone: (480) 921-2562, cell (602) 228-9331 Fax: (480) 575-1279 eMail: cory@mexicancoincompany.com Website: http://mexicancoincompany.com, Specialties: Mexico and Latin America PNG Awards: Robert Friedberg Award - 2010 Richard Snow Member No. 707 Since 05/18/2012 Eagle Eye Rare Coins, Inc. P.O. Box 32891 Tucson, AZ 85751 United States Hours: 9-5 Mon-Fri in store Phone: (520) 498-4615, (866) 323-2646 Fax: (520) 529-1299 eMail: rick@indiancent.com Website: http://indeancent.com, http://greatcoins.com Specialties: Flying Eagle and Indian Cents, Eagle Eye Photo Seal Brett Sadovnick Member No. 760 Since 09/02/2014 Tucson Coin & Autograph 6350 N. Oracle Rd. Tucson, AZ 85704 United States Phone: (520) 219-4427 Fax: (520) 797-1482 eMail: tucsoncoin@theriver.com Website: http://tucsoncoin@theriver.com,
  14. Need Suggestions - Selling Gold Coins

    You can simply post those photos right here on this thread and we can all share in the fun (I'm serious) of valuing them. Hey, we all hear you on that -- there are many who have detected 40+ years and have never found a single gold coin let along a cache of them. Right now (I'm really only a couple years experienced) I would be thrilled to find a silver half dollar. While I'm at wishing, might as well make that a Walking Liberty..., 1921(any mint -- I'm not greedy)..., Extremely Fine condition....
  15. Target Masking

    I didn't even think of this -- that the reason I may have missed these small targets before but picked them up now is that I had the gain set too high previously. Just another example of why it helps to post here: others can point out details/reasons/etc. that I've missed. When I was in Colorado a month ago and was able to pick the brain of an experienced F75 user he told me that he often runs at a gain of 50, which is just halfway up the gain scale. He suggested I try that. John, your post clarfies why he said that. Thanks! This also may be another emphasis of "simple isn't better" when it comes to understanding how an MD works. In one of Dave Johnson's posts he mentions how unrealistic it is to think of the zone of detection of a coil as an inverted dome or cone. He goes further to say something about over 24 degrees of freedom (>24 variables) that affect how a target will signal. (The number he specified may have been 27.) And I'm pretty sure he was talking about a single target. How many variables when you add another target in range, and another.... Further speculating, suppose you have a small nail at 6 inch depth and nearby a dime at 4 inch depth. The signal you get will not only depend upon where the coil is with respect to these targets and the direction and speed of motion, but also on the gain. If you can reduce the effect of the nail more than the effect of the coin by turning down the gain then you come out ahead. Is this (still an overly simple explanation ) a description of what is happening?
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