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Found 259 results

  1. Today I got a 10 - 12 signal with iron and mid tones mixed, sure sounded like a bottle cap. Typically I'll dig a scoop to try and determine if it is a bottle cap by how and if the signal changes. . After 1 scoop all I had in the hole was an iron tone. I decided to look in the scoop and there was the mid tone.....3 grams of PD 950 with tiny diamonds.....pretty blue main stone. Pretty amazing how this machine can see a good target around the iron. Be careful on those bottle cap signals!
  2. I was just wondering ,if it’s something out there that you would or wish White’s had to offer you as their customer ? White’s have a waterproof pinpointer or just a land one . It has a VLF waterproof detector and lots of land detectors.It has one TDI PI detector and it’s a land only. Do you see the same void I see that White’s needs to fill ? I can’t say how receptive people would be to another waterproof PI detector. When I got mine ( say what it is ) land TDI I never dug so deep for a single coin before. I wanted to get nearer to the water but I knew with one wave it would be lost . What do you think if we had a waterproof detector be it VLF or PI that handle vibrate and do away with having to wear waterproof headphones? The vibrating handle has worked for another detector company. If they can make a pointer work that way then why not a detector ? You tell not me but White’s what you would like from them. Chuck
  3. There is an area of a park that I hunt that I have gone over many times with my CTX, Deus, and EQ 800. I have studiously tried to learn how to use the many features of each detector to know good targets from questionable ones. Recently friends have expressed an interest in trying metal detecting so I bought a Quest Q20 to loan them because it is simpler than my other machines while still having minimally useful features. Took it out to the area of the park mentioned above to check it out and....you guessed it....found my best find of the past year, a heavy gold plated silver ring. Which got me to thinking.......(always dangerous). Its been discussed before of course but I wonder how many of us use all the info and adjustments of our machines to find the good stuff but only end up using all that info almost as a reason NOT to dig. Is that why a new detector always seems to "bring hunted out sites back to life"? Is that why, in the face of increasing technology, beep and dig machines are still out there doing well? Knowing your machine(s) is necessary for sure and it's fun tweaking them to get their best. But just what is their best? We've all seen a good strong signal turn out to be something other than what was indicated. Still, there are a few people who can tell an awful lot about a target before digging it and digging every beep is hardly a viable option. Plus you can't sweep every square inch of a site. BUT....... I'll bet most of us just outsmart ourselves more often than not. Or is that just me?
  4. In everyones opinion what would be better...Park 1 or Park 2 for a newbie to the Nox 800. I hunt freshwater beach (on the Colorado river in AZ ) also tot lots in town plus a few old home sites ( not that old ) , mostly foundations.
  5. Hi everyone I'm fairly new to metal detecting and am using the Fisher F22. I would like to give it to my daughter to use with me so im in the market for a new detector. I like to hunt mostly parks for Canadian Clad but do vacation in florida and would like to hunt the beach. I was thinking of getting the Equinox 600 but read it does great in almost everything except Canadian clad, can anyone recommend a detector my max budget is 1000. Thanks guys.
  6. Fskafish

    Display Cases

    I was wondering if anyone would want to share pictures of there display cases, not so much shadow boxes but anyone with larger display cases. I love old and nice ones so thought it would be cool to see some...ive got one i pulled out of a general store that opened in the 1930s and been working on it for awhile getting it cleaned up, also have a smaller one that i literally seen in a junk pile on the side of the road that ive been working on replacing rotten wood and for sum reason they lined the inside with wallpaper so been cleaning that up to.. i found the smaller one and amazingly the old glass didnt even have a crack in it..
  7. I have a tesoro vaquero and i was looking for everyones thoughts on what other tesoro would be complimentary to the vaquero for another tool in the tesoro tool box?
  8. It's not magnetic heavy kind of soft
  9. Ronjas

    Xterra 705 Help

    One year ago My husband and I decided to try our hand at metal detecting.We were total newbies with a steep learning curve. We purchased a used Xterra 705 for our starting machine. We downloaded and printed Randy Horton’s Xterra guide and have read it many times. It is a valuable tool for any Xterra owner. We spent the last year educating ourselves on the basics of metal detecting and getting to know our machine. We are feeling pretty confident about the Xterra except for one issue. I am looking for advice on any errors we are committing or if we possibly have something wrong with our detector. We have contacted minelab, but they never got back to us about our issue. So here goes... We are having an issue with TID numbers with in ground silver. We have several old silver coins we use for testing. They air test perfectly per published Xterra TID charts. When we place a coin (dime, quarter or half dollar, doesn’t matter) in a dug plug and cover, the coins register as ferrous (-8, -6 or -4) every time regardless of the coil we have installed. We have the stock 9” 7.5 kHz and the 6” 18.75 kHz Double D coils. We cannot get silver to register as anything but ferrous in the ground. The depth does not matter. We usually run in all metal or discrim 1 on occasion. We go through a set up each time we arrive at a place to detect that includes noise canceling, threshold, sensitivity and manual ground balance, although we usually detect in auto ground balance. We use 99 tones and silver in the ground has a ferrous “thunking” sound to go along with the TID numbers. We have reset to factory setting several times in the hope of solving this issue to no avail. We are out of ideas and possibly need service. Thank you for reading this far. Any advice or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
  10. When primary aim is finding meteorites (also with low iron/ nickel content), what metal detector would be a good idea to get (within budget)? Minelab Gold Monster 1000 (no manual ground balance, does this matter?) Minelab Equinox 600 (no real all metal mode??) Makro Multi Kruzer (how sensitive to small objects?) Makro Gold Kruzer (unknown when it will ship) Other detector (why?) Or do I need to spend more, i.e. get an XP Deus? I would very much appreciate any insight or even practical experience. Thank you very much for your time!
  11. Got out with the equinox, got this old piece of brass i think. Does anyone know what this might be?
  12. Am wanting to purchase a Sdc 2300 all checks out on serial numbers etc and is a good price with many extras. my concern never using one before I set up three pieces of lead. 0.05g , 1.13g, 2.00g. i ran the Sdc over the three individual and the two larger pieces good solid signal up to 300mm lift. it would not pick up the 0.05g? Also ran it over 2.5g nugget yep good signal. i then ran my old AT Gold over the three same. As per the Sdc the AT went off and up to 300mm difference here is the AT picked up the 0.05g light signal but good solid number at around 50mm lift. AT also same on nugget. my question is shouldn’t the s Sdc have picked up the sub Gram lead?? Isn’t that what it is supposed to grab onto?? Im a bit lost as to what to do now purchase/don’t purchase Can anyone confirm that it should have picked that up, could there be a problem with it. really want it but was expecting it to leave the AT Gold for dead?? Thanks Guys Donnie
  13. wanderer


    I would like to know what exactly is minerlaization, What kind of minerals? are they all iron based or mafic? what about other things? I am considering the purchase of my first detector and looking at a used xterra 705. I know that VLF are limited in heavy minerlized soils/Rocks so I am trying to find wha th elimits of this detector would be. I plan mainly to hunt for gold nuggets > while I would like a PI I don't see any that re reasonably priced for a first detector. What thoughts do you have?
  14. Vferarri hit it out of the park with his recent post on TreasureNet. Exceptionally clear and concise explanation of EQ settings, depth performance and modes! His post is #8 in the thread. http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/equinox/576820-depth-performance-question.html#post5798951 I think that post is worthy of nomination to the "Essential Information" thread!
  15. Is it worth while detecting old deep lead mullock heaps? The heap I have in mind comprises of granite and ironstone rocks and kaolin clay.
  16. Found this large piece on my property in east-central Ohio. It looks much like petrified wood but not quite as slick as many specimens I have seen. It's also not very common to find in my part of Ohio (Licking County). Is there any way to test to see if it is indeed silicified or petrified wood?
  17. I am interested in any information anybody has about the discovery of gold in White Pine County, Nevada in the Osceola district, in the area around Dry Gulch and so forth. I have seen general information about it, but does anyone know of source material which talks about the first people who discovered gold there and what they did?
  18. Took my Equinox 800 out for first trip ever since I bought it and went to an older local park. Wish I could stay it was great, but had a very frustrating day and only found 10 coins for $.41 in 3 1/2 hours. I have used a Whites XLT for 14 years , so, I guess the learning curve will be greater than I thought with the Equinox even though I'm obviously not new to metal detecting. Even though I tried all the modes, thoroughly read the manual numerous times, did noise cancel in each mode, ground balance in each mode, used different recovery speeds, and iron bias I still had problems with bad signals, bad target Id, pin pointing, lots of noise./chatter. I tried turning down the sensitivity way down to 14-15 but didn't help much. After digging some deep holes I discovered this park did have a quite extensive old metal sprinkler system with pipes and heads about 9-12 inches deep that I would guess was maybe largely responsible for my difficulties. The depth system with the shovels is not all that accurate. Some of my targets on the surface were reading 6-8 inches deep. After reading all about the Equinox on various sites I know it is better than it was today. I realize if there's no coins at a location even the very very best detector isn't going to find anything. I did not experience any of these problems in my test garden in the back yard, so, Im assuming this park had some type of issues I couldn't overcome at least with my limited knowledge of the Equinox. This is not meant as a criticism of the Equinox . Just trying to do better next time. Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks.
  19. Hi all, I haven’t really been keeping up with the multitude of new vlf detectors that have came out over the last couple of years. Is there a new preferred detector for working quartz reefs? Or does everyone still use the gmt and goldbug? Thanks
  20. Againstmywill

    Moving To Florida

    I will be moving to the Clearwater area in July. Anyone on this forum that is in the area and is willing to show me the ropes of beach detecting? I currently am landlocked in the western U.S., so I don't have any idea how to read a beach. The only beach success I have had was on vacation in Puerto Rico a few years back. I took my AT Pro and found out quickly that it is not so good on the beach! However, the night before leaving the island, checking through the finds from the week, there was a copper Maravedi from just after 1500--something I thought was junk. Goes to show that we should take the junk with us and check our finds before pitching them in the trash. I have an Equinox 800 on the way, so salt and water should not be a problem now.
  21. A friendly reminder here for those who posess Equinox units or those who plan on getting. Pay particular attention when transporting your units. What I am referring to here is the magnetic charging port on detector as well as the magnetic port on wi stream headphone module. These both can pick up metal things when exposed. Hence there could be a possibility of you shorting out either or your detector's battery or the battery in the wireless module. My headphone module picked up a nail today when I laid it down briefly. Just thought I would share.
  22. A machine with the sophistication of the Equinox is much more readily able to identify iron by how it responds on the cross-sweep. This is because iron is more like the ground than a non-ferrous target. You could say that it is fully “grounded.” Many larger iron objects will sound off well from the standpoint of the first target sweep but when you check them on the cross sweep they lack consistency. In effect the detector is reading an interaction between ground and metal--rather than just metal. This interaction is not stable or “complete” in the same way as a solid, consistent target like a coin or ring. You could say that the detector is reading a changing “process.” With a high gain detector like the Equinox, understanding this one simple bit of theory will save a lot of digging. Another basic method to get a better idea if a signal is iron is to simply compare how loud it is with the depth meter reading. A blaring response that reads full depth is probably something larger than a coin or ring. As well, where you see a response that seems to change location or needs to be “coaxed” to give a response--suspect iron. In that some of the Equinox’s more complex iron muting features (Iron bias) can reduce depth, having a good command of these inherent, checkable differences between an iron signal and a non-ferrous one can help your accuracy a lot. Picture Caption: Basic signal quality differences: ferrous (L) versus non-ferrous (R). This is how the well-known bottle cap ”tell” method of removing the coil to produce a low tone works. Whereas a good target is either heard or not, a cap has a surrounding field that produces a low tone. From: “The Minelab Equinox: From Beginner to Advanced” By Clive James Clynick
  23. I just completed a very nice Test/Demonstration video on the Minelab Equinox 600 / 800 covering Coins, both Silver and clad. I did a lot of editing to make this video stand out from the average target test. Make sure to check out my other video covering Rings and Jewelry! Hope these videos help the new Equinox users to understand more of what their machine is telling them. GL & HH
  24. Hey everyone... First off I'd like to say that coming from another popular forum, I find this one to be the most educational, informative and administered. I have followed enough of Steve H's wisdom in this hobby to know that this forum is now at the top of my list for all around metal detecting, no matter which brand. This is my 2nd post on this forum so I hope I'm in the right place with this. My question is with discrimination with the Nox 600. We've mostly been taught that Minelab machines perform at their best when discrimination is at a minimum. Thus, I've been running my Safari with iron only disc'd out. Now with the Nox, I'm reading articles/posts where others say the Nox will handle a significant amount of disc'ing with no notable differences in performance. Do you find this to be true? I only have approx 30 hours on mine and I've run it in all 3 modes and I have played with the disc settings somewhat. The 2 times I have run with high disc I notice the Nox gets faint on the signals almost as if it's having a slight power failure or is struggling to identify targets. I've seen a couple of youtubers running it with more disc than its default settings and it looks to be running smoothly. I hunt some of the trashiest parks in Los Angeles and my ears get a serious pounding with zinc, pull tab, and iron signals. Coming from the Safari and into the Nox is like being under machine gun fire with the signals. I've set my machine to disc out iron up to +11 and 14 - 19. Basically I only want to hear nickels and high conductors (only in super trash parks). When I disc out this way, is when I lose all confidence in the machine due to the change in its operation. Maybe I'm backing off too soon and not giving it a chance to work its way through. Of the modes given, I like field 1, GB 0, sens 22, 50 tones, multi freq, iron bias 0, speed 3. I toggle back and forth between modes and field 1 thus far seems to work best for me but this could change as I get to know my Nox. Anyone have comments or examples to share using high disc is appreciated. As always HH everyone.
  25. Hello I was just wondering what settings people are using on there iron laiden sites i have a site full of iron amd have not used the equinox a great deal yet, would folk be kind enough to share there settings please