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Found 51 results

  1. Plz give me some advice.My nephew’s birthday is coming. I am willing to buy a children’s metal detector sale for him.I am wondering what brands I should choose. What about this one?
  2. Well I for one, and possibly a few others here in the States, am looking forward towards a new gold season down under. I know this subject has come up in the forum before, Taking your detector with you overseas, but its not been a stand alone topic and I have been unable to dig it out of the old topics where this issue has been discussed easily. So I've brought it up this way so maybe it'll be easier for others to find in the future when the concern comes up. Our detectors and associated gear are rather a pricey point of pride regardless of whether your just coin shooting or going bush. I am asking all with experience in this arena to pitch a comment so as that future traveler can find a comfortable accommodation on how to carry their gear. My way is not the best way but it works well and I understand the risks. Having taken my gear, both prospecting and coin shooter, overseas many times now~ primarily to Australia but also Japan and Europe~ I simply break it down and pack it well in the suit case as check bags. I carry the control box with me on-board with my carry on and in the case of the Zed I tape off the contacts of the batteries and carry them as well and declare them at the check in, present them for inspection *sometimes they re-tape them*, and go on about my business. With the advent of lithium batteries its important that you do check with the air carriers you plan to use on any limitations and I suggest strongly that you discharge the batteries to at least 50% prior to travel. This lessens the chance of any problems with the batteries and its a feel good you can tell the front desk if asked. Lead acid batteries like the old Humpy for ML's older SD/GP series should just be purchased on the other side as they are cheap enough however I have gotten them thru in check bags as well in the past. Other power supplies can be treated similarly. Now having said that there is the type of luggage to look for when traveling. First off measure the longest and widest parts of your detector or other gear, like a small pick, so you can obtain the right size bag. Look for one that has a solid back frame, soft frame luggage will not do, or if you have the cash a hard case. Bear in mind that you want to keep all bags under 50 lbs or you will run into fees and in some cases not be allowed to take them at all. Hard cases and Otter boxes are heavy. Due to weight I've had to repack a few times right at the counter just to get things thru even wear extra coats and put socks in my pockets to get thru. In the case of Australia you will want two cases however one can be smaller. Also look for something with solidly mounted wheels and collapsible drag handle. Expect to transfer planes~ those wheels will be important. I also pack an extra belt into the outer pocket of one so I can strap them together at the soft handles for transport, notch it to fit ahead of time as you wont have your pocket knife with you when the time comes. The solid frame back is needed to protect from flexure and impacts as the baggage is handled~ and it will be~ and your cloths will be the packing. Got bags, ok, so lets pack. A towel, pants or jacket is the first layer about an inch of padding off the rear frame. Now the coil/coils with clothes between them. Rods go in towards the middle. Use socks and shirts around the outter sides of the bag and between gear pieces. If you are taking a pick tuck it to the side and wrap it with jeans. *Just stick it down a leg and wrap the top well*. Your last layer will be mostly cloths about 4 inches thick and when I carry my pan it sits on top. As I said with Australia I carry two bags. I split my detector assemblies/gear and coil between them. Someone get nosy or a bag gets lost its only a partial loss and cheaper to replace than if a whole bag goes for walk about. Having stuff stolen is the Risk and should never be taken lightly. I know you wont like I wont.... its a pricey point of pride. The risk is also why I carry the control box. In the case of thieves they wont want the bits.... usually. Lost bags are in the next paragraph. Last point. Use those identity tags at the front desk and mark your bags with a distinctive bit of something ( ribbon, bungie, spray paint, ect). I have never lost a bag but they have wandered. That tag and bit of distinctive something, in my case its a chunk of black and white bungie knotted very securely to the handle, aid greatly in tracking down your wandering luggage. On the carousel at the airport all that luggage looks the same as well. Also TAKE A PICTURE of your bags and keep it on your camera or phone. Again if you have ever lost a bag when you go to report it they are going to give you a placard with a whole bunch of luggage and ask you what it looks like... if your bags are new then its confusing. Always expect to stay a day or so at your final destination. Why? Because if that bag(s) wander you'll need to stick around for them to catch up. Airlines have always been good about getting my stuff to me even if I have had to wait a day or so... dont get frustrated~ just keep it in stride, I know your tired and its been a long flight~ if you end up having to track you bags back to you. Its not the person at the kiosk who needs to be your lightning rod if things go poorly. Remember they work for a living too. Now having said all that there apparently are some new restrictions for carry on electronics so I will add this : Check your route and avoid any legs that go thru the middle east or Africa. Lately I've been flying Quantus out of Dallas to get to Sydney but there are alternate routes that take one thru Dubia and a couple of other spots. The A380 aircraft is a good ride, I kinda miss the 747, so plan appropriately as with the new restrictions you may be forced to pack everything in your check bags. Keep your self informed and pack well. All will be good ;) Thanks for reading. DD
  3. I find myself nugget hunting alone all the time. The trouble here in Texas it's next to nothing in the way of gold to be found. You find most people coin hunting and some relic hunting. If you said anything about nugget hunting I'm sure they wouldn't know what you're talking about. I've got a nugget hunting trip plan and been talking with a friend in another state that did hunt but I don't believe will ever again. So tell me if you going it alone and if not then how. Chuck
  4. Weighs 69 Grams, reads below nickel on Metal Detector, does not stick to a magnet. Thanks for any help!
  5. Some may say that it's the detector in front of the guy and others may say it's the guy behind the detector. I say it's a little of both and the guy who will admit he may not know it all. Like another post this guy was asking for help to bring him up to speed on his GPZ. Oh don't get me wrong you do have to be where the gold is to start. Anyone who goes out and buys this hot new detector has to be willing to put in the time and make note of what works best. I say this has to be with you every time you go out in the field to detect. It's said the proof is in the pudding but in your case it's more gold found. A lot of you know Uncle Ron. Well at one time he had this old SD 2100 and found more gold than most with a newer detector. If you would have seen the coil he had on it you may had felt sorry for him and gave some gold to him. I don't know what he swings now but it was all about him knowing his detector and what it could do for him. I posted this just to give you more to think about to make you a better nugget hunter. Chuck.
  6. Post any tips when switching coils or "going from mild to hot ground "or" Big coil 18 plus size" detector settings that need switching? Or any thing else" that comes to mind?When operating the Minelab Gpx-4500/5000's... The Guy's w/ the Zed's are the 1%.and deserve a $10g machine! I watched some "Aussies" $$$Payoff their Zedz in 90days! upon it first debut ..Im sure there's a "Bunch" of newbies' like"Me" out there/on here...that got into p/i/ during the last 24months. Because we could finally $$$ afford to! And at $2600 for a gpx45! Thanks Minelab and Rob'sDetector's! I "appreciate" all posts/responses I've Read thruout the "forum" archived&current and take heart of "Everything" I can on these Great Machines! And Feel Blessed" to be Carrying one! Just like my "Mates Down Under" Thanks! Cheers, Ig Hot Ground Balance below;
  7. Went for a drive down the Feather River Canyon yesterday. Beautiful day, lots of water everywhere. With lots of water, comes lots of bugs. As the sun was starting to set, the mosquitoes and buffalo gnats were horrendous. So make sure bug repellant is in your bag. Lots of water made for a good scouring of the riverways. Should make for a good prospecting and detecting season.
  8. Hi, im after some advice on metal detectors. I live in the UK and im currently using the Nokta fors core with a 15'' coil for coin and relic hunting but im looking to buy a new detector primarily to search for Roman silver coins and hammered silver coins only. The sites im currently on are rich in history finding coins form Julius Caesar Roman through to Elizabeth II. But im only getting finds up to 12' to 14'' max' with the detector im using at the moment and feel as though im missing quite few finds. Does any one know which is a good detector to purchase, hopefully something good on mineralised ground discriminants iron well and goes verry deep on small silver coins hopefully well over 12'' to 14'' . I know its a tough one but any help or advice is verry much appreciated. thanks paul
  9. So I've been working on my new dredge and its turning into a chunk of change. That has me thinking I need to plan a bit. Been lucky to date I have only lost a GEO pick but even that is 60.00. I'm looking for ideas as to deter people from getting into my stuff and vandalizing or stealing. What are the rest of you guy's doing? So far I have cables and locks for the dredges and I ordered security bolts to secure the motors. Looking at a game cam to post on a tree at the main road to get a picture of any driving in figure i'll get a license plate that way as well as a profile. Anyone have a favorite camera? Maybe some" smile your on camera signs"? I am looking at some camouflaged tarps and I did paint up some steel lock boxes for hand tools and small gear. Anyone use GPS tracking devices? Not looking to set up booby traps to hurt people but if anyone has a landmine that blows out crap, I'm listening Here are the lock boxes I painted.
  10. Much has been written about prospecting and open holes. Let's try to keep some things in perspective. It is a well known and established fact that gold nuggets can be found in areas that have been and are being dry washed. (Large pits are left open or gullies are destroyed.) It is also a known fact that gold is still found where the old timers used ground sluices extensively in areas where there was enough water. (Large boulders and rocks line the hillsides with trees and growth coming out of these old digs.) The 'signs' of these activities sometimes gets us excited if we own a metal detector. We know they didn't get it all. A more recent sign of gold in an area would be unfilled holes in a nugget patch. (There can also be rake piles where someone got the iron stones out of the way or chaining marks very dense.) We can sure get mad about this or we can 'read the holes' and find what is left. We might even want to 'thank' the jerks who left the holes open. (We might learn that WE didn't get it all and someone has gone back to OUR patch and found nuggets we missed!) There is another way for us 'hole fillers' to think about things. (It is not all bad ... make some lemonade mates.) We should get 'excited' if we go to an area where there are holes (filled or not) because it means there were targets ... and you HAVE TO BELIEVE that there are still some good targets left. Think about it. You have these places where to detect: 1. A 'virgin' place with perfect patina and no signs of digging, scraping or mining. (Might be good for meteorites!) 2. A place that has 'old' dig holes that are fairly shallow but the depressions are there. 3. A place that has more recent holes which are less than 10" deep and some are unfilled. 4. A place with a lot of dig holes, many unfilled and some are very deep. Your detecting equipment is a 7000, a 5000/4500 with the new coils or something else which is 'state of the art' so to say. Please rank where you spend your time. Mitchel P.S.: When done fill your holes because there will be even better equipment coming out and you will want to go back to your patch. Save the locations on your GPS.
  11. When detecting with 3 or 4 people and 1 finds a patch should it be shared or is it the the finders alone?
  12. Hello all I'm new to this forum and I'm interested in buying a metal detector. I was thinking about going with the Garret AT Gold. I know nothing about detecting but did some reading and this one just catches my eye, any thoughts? Thanks for your inputs in advance.
  13. Quite often l have seen detectorists arrive at a new spot full of enthusiam and upon arrival jump out of the car, grab their detector and race off hurrying here and there like a headless chook swinging aimlessly in their excitement to find that first elusive bit of gold. Only to be dissapointed at the lack of gold finds and quickly ready to write the area off and move on. I speak from experience because l was one of those. However several of those spots kept calling me back. And when I did return it was with a contolled enthusiam. Instead of jumping out of the car and racing around I took the time to look about and read the ground. I took the time to get the detector running smoothly and most importantly I took the time to carefully detect the area I had chosen, thouroughly working the area in a unhurried manner. And on most occasions I was rewarded with gold. Yes gold from an area I was too quick to write off initially because I was in too much of a hurry to properly access the potential that was right in front of my nose. So all l can say is slow down, plan you attack and have patience and work the area properly and don't be too quick to write a spot off or you will leave it behind.
  14. Who did use BR Royal Basic metal detector . Any advice
  15. I received the following email: "My name is *********** , a logger from ***********. I'm wanting to move to Alaska and start a new life with my family. I don't have much of anything. I'm probably one of the hardest workers you will ever meet and I'm honest. I'm looking for a chance at working a claim and learning what there is to learn. I have experience in running a rock crusher - now that was a fun, six years never a dull moment! Welding, mechanic diesel and gas, can build you a house start to finish, my chain saw sleeps in my bed room next to my splitting mall. How do I get a chance in working a mine and owning one?" I have received lots of requests similar to this over the years. Back in the 1980's we literally had people show up at my mining shop with the family in a vehicle, possessions strapped on top, come to Alaska to strike it rich. Here is a bunch of information. I hope it helps - good luck! According to the October 2014 Economic Impacts of Placer Mining in Alaska: There were 646 placer mines permitted by the Alaska Department of Natural Resources (DNR) in 2013. DNR estimated 47 percent of permits (295) placer operations were mined in 2013. In 2013, there were approximately 1,200 direct, mostly seasonal, jobs in Alaska’s placer mine industry. On average, each placer mine had four workers. However, approximately 27 percent of placer mines were run by one person and there are a few significant larger operations (50+ workers). Of the 1,200 workers, approximately 73 percent (880 workers) live in Alaska. Of those Alaska residents, approximately half live in Anchorage/Mat-Su Borough (26 percent) or Fairbanks (26 percent). The remaining half (48 percent) live in communities elsewhere in Alaska. Total direct income, including wages, shares of production, and owner’s profits, are estimated at $40 million for 2013. For miners receiving compensation, 56 percent were paid a wage, while the remaining 44 percent were compensated with a share of gold production. That was 2013 but it gives you some basic figures. Maybe just over 1,000 seasonal jobs, and not all of them from people living in the state. Being located there would help though. Many of these jobs go to family members or long time, trusted employees, so there are few openings on a yearly basis. Still, a person has a shot at it. So how to go about it? All I can offer is what I would do if I did not know anybody. The easiest place to start would be to contact the Alaska Miners Association at http://alaskaminers.org/contact-us/ and purchase their latest Service Directory. I am not sure what it costs now but it used to be $20 (or included with membership). It includes a listing of all the businesses that supply and service miners in Alaska; information on land status, permitting, agency lists, State mining law, and the membership list of the AMA, Alaska's most influential mining organization. Over 1000 miners and mining related organizations are listed with contact information. The key is the membership list with names and contact information. That gives you a place to start with either phone calls or letters. Most actual mining operations in Alaska are members of the AMA. If you are interested in employment at a lode mine, the major mines information is also in the Service Directory. More information can be gleaned from the latest state report - Alaska's Mineral industry 2015. Keep an eye out for a 2016 report soon. According to the report "Total mineral industry employment in 2015 is estimated at 2,901 full-time-equivalent jobs" Here is the chart from the report: Note this chart shows less than half the number of placer employment as the figures quoted in the 2013 report and only 120 in 2015. This probably reflects a difference in actual wage and salary type workers versus one person operations or family members and people working for a share of the take. Still, it can be seen overall numbers dropped quite a bit the last few years. Also from the report, here is a map of major mining and exploration projects in Alaska. You can read about these in detail in the report, and a little use of Google can give you employment contact information for each company, job openings, etc. Start at the AMA Links Page Check out the Mining and Petroleum Training Service For opportunities in mining all over see Mining Career Opportunities at InfoMine http://www.infomine.com/careers/ HELPFUL LINKS FOR THE MINERAL INDUSTRY IN ALASKA DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES • Recording Fees | http://dnr.alaska.gov/ssd/recoff/fees_RO.cfm • Public Information Center | http://dnr.alaska.gov/commis/pic/ • State Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) Documents Search | http://dnr.alaska.gov/ssd/recoff/ Division of Mining, Land & Water • Mining Applications and Forms | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/forms/ • Fact Sheets | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/ • Annual Placer Mining Application (APMA) 2015 | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/forms/14apma/ • Annual Rental | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/mine_fs/annualre.pdf • Leasing State Land | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/land_fs/lease_land.pdf • Land Lease & Contract Payment Information | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/land_fs/lease_contract_payment_info.pdf • Production Royalty | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/mine_fs/producti.pdf • DNR Production Royalty Form | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/forms/mining/royalty_fm.pdf • Exploration Incentive Credit Program | http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/factsht/mine_fs/explore.pdf Division of Geological & Geophysical Surveys • Publications On-Line | http://dggs.alaska.gov/publications/ • Interactive Maps | http://maps.dggs.alaska.gov/ • Geologic Maps of Alaska: Online Map Search Tool | http://maps.dggs.alaska.gov/mapindex/ • Unpublished Geology-Related Data (Alaska Geologic Data Index) | http://maps.dggs.alaska.gov/agdi/ • Geologic Materials Center | http://dggs.alaska.gov/gmc/ • Geochemical Sample Analysis Search (WebGeochem) | http://www.dggs.alaska.gov/webgeochem/ • Minerals Report Questionnaire | http://www.dggs.alaska.gov/minerals_questionnaire Alaska’s Minerals Data & Information Rescue in Alaska (MDIRA) Project Websites • MDIRA Portal Home Page | http://akgeology.info/ • Alaska Mining Claims Mapper | http://akmining.info/ • Land Records Web Application | http://dnr.alaska.gov/Landrecords/ • State Recorder’s Office Search | http://dnr.alaska.gov/ssd/recoff/searchRO.cfm • Alaska Resource Data Files | http://ardf.wr.usgs.gov/ • USGS Alaska Geochemical Database (NURE, RASS, PLUTO…) | http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/637/ • Guide to Alaska Geologic and Mineral Information | http://doi.org/10.14509/3318 • Alaska State Geo-Spatial Data Clearinghouse | http://www.asgdc.state.ak.us/ DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, COMMUNITY, AND ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT • Minerals Information | https://www.commerce.alaska.gov/web/ded/dev/mineralsdevelopment • Community and Regional Information | https://www.commerce.alaska.gov/web/dcra/ResearchAnalysis • Alaska Industrial Development and Export Authority (AIDEA) | http://www.aidea.org • AIDEA Supports Mining | www.aidea.org/Programs/ProjectDevelopment/30YearsofMiningSupport.aspx DEPARTMENT OF REVENUE • Mining License Tax | http://www.tax.alaska.gov/programs/programs/index.aspx?60610 • Motor Fuel Tax Claim for Refund | http://www.tax.alaska.gov//programs/programs/forms/index.aspx?60210 • Alaska Motor Fuel Tax Instructions | http://www.tax.alaska.gov/programs/documentviewer/viewer.aspx?5086f
  16. My buddy brought this thing back from a gulch in Colorado. He wasn't having any luck finding gold with is Atgold so he started using his magnet on his pick. He happened upon this thing. I don't know what to call it yet so it's a thing right now! LOL Anyway it stuck like glue to his pick but he told me his machine would not hit on it! I told him he must of had his machine set up wrong. OK. So I bring it home and tried my Atpro on it with my already set GB to 80 and not a peep at full power, Pro zero with no disc! I then lowered my GB to around 60 and there I could get a hit. It would not hit at the center of the coil but would hit as the coil approached and departed the target with an iron tone. The Propointer A/T won't peep even touching this thing but yet it is strongly attracted to a magnet!! It's small and heavy weighing in at 2.7oz. What the heck is it???
  17. another ---- question from me... Is there a "easy" way to move my google earth account from my old computer to my new computer. I would like to keep the waypoints I have...just because I like them... remember, small words and simple directions for fred... thanks fred
  18. I am curious as to which machine you prefer for inland gold jewelry hunting and why. Always like learning about other peoples machines and methods. Thank you.
  19. Freezing Rain here in Kansas thought I would share my story if it's ok with Steve. Two Gold Coins It was July in 1985 I had been Metal Detecting since the early 60’s. I started with a Heath kit from Radio Shack than 2 Compass detectors Judge and Judge-2 , in 1983 I bought a Teknetics 8500 and converted it to a hip mount . In July 1985 after a summer rain my brother was hunting arrow heads in a plowed field and a Deer had ran across the field his hoof had flipped over a 1880 Silver Dollar. I got a call that night from him and he told me the story said he would tell me where it was for half of what I found. That was agreed to so the next day we met and he took me to a field by a small creek and I commenced to hunt it. He started to hunt for Arrow heads again and I went to swinging my coil hoping for another silver dollar the first hit was a 1882 Gold 5 Dollar coin I stared in disbelief my first gold coin and I would have to give him half. That was not going to happen As it is in Kansas in July after a rain it gets very hot and I was swinging as fast as I could to cover more ground I was beat and left worrying how to share a 5 Dollar coin, after all I had agreed to half and keeping ones word is what I have learned to abide by. The next day I was early at the site it was getting hot already There were a few coins found Indian heads, a seated half, and liberty head nickels, early Wheat's and I was getting overheated when a front came through with a cool breeze that could only come from heaven. Then it happened a hit and 1880 $5 gold coin appeared in the dirt, my worries were over I gave my brother his half of the Gold coins and I kept the rest of the coins that I had found. Later we determined that it was a picnic grove from a small town a half mile away that was 4 houses and a church away from being a Ghost Town . My brother still has the Silver Dollar he found and the $5 gold coin I gave him and I still have my first $5 Dollar gold coin KS Stick.
  20. I was looking to see if anyone had suggestions about a detector I could go with for prospecting here in Maine. I have seen one topic on this site about this subject, someone who had a Makro Racer. In my experience VLF of any sort don't work around here, there are so many large hot rocks and hot soil they don't stand much of a chance. I'm nearly certain you will need a PI detector to find anything in the good areas(less touched). I have seen many nuggets in this area, even in the heavily hunted Swift River. I have not personally seen anything over 1/2 ounce, but I'm certain there are some. There are plenty of "picker" sized nuggets but most of the gold is in very small pieces. I'm not certain even if I bought a nice PI detector it would be worthwhile, hence why I am here! I've heard many times the largest amount of the gold is eluvial or even the alluvial from old river beds. I've seen people pulling 1/8-1/4oz nuggets out of the clay near, but not in, the river, well outside the high water mark. So there are nuggets up here, not loaded, but here. The terrain to the areas untouched are harsh, so I was looking for a lighter detector. Very steep jagged landscape. In the end, my question is, with so many hot rocks is it worthwhile to buy a decent PI to detect pickers and maybe some nuggets, or spend the same amount and just buy a dredge? If it's worth the while, any suggestions on a detector under 3k?(not sure if I should bother with waterproof or not) Thanks!
  21. Hi All, I like H.Glenn Carson's books. I like the way he tries to get you into the right mindset for what you are hunting for. I wrote this little article several years ago kind of along his view of trying to get you to think rather than just telling you where to go. I find it helps you to own the information. Maybe some will find it helpful. HH Mike So you want to find gold with a metal detector? There are three forms of gold you can find with a metal detector; gold coins, gold nuggets and gold jewelry. I’m going to focus on gold jewelry, and further refine that focus to just gold jewelry found at inland sites, like parks, schools, athletic fields and play grounds. Tip number one: You hunt gold jewelry with your mind. Next time you are out and about, take a look at what type of jewelry people are wearing. What do you see? Who is wearing the gold? What type and size of gold is being worn? What part of the body is it being worn on? Almost everybody is wearing some type of gold jewelry. It may be in the form of a chain around a neck or wrist, to a ring on a finger, to an earring in the ear, but nearly everyone is wearing something. Married couples have wedding bands. Most post adolescent girls, young ladies and women are wearing multiple rings and often bracelets of some sort. The high school and college graduates are wearing class rings. Both female and males are often wearing gold chains. The males often just wear a chain, while the females often wear a chain with a pendant attached to it. You’ll even see ankle bracelets and toe rings. You will notice some cultures wear more than others. Some cultures will wear more and larger gold jewelry. But there are more things to look for than just culture. Pay attention to life style as well. For example the hip hop and rap lifestyles tend to wear bigger and larger jewelry. Can you say Bling Bling? What type and size of gold? The smallest gold is often worn in the ears. Little round studs and small designs, sometimes with stones. Various size loops. Often it is hard to tell but maybe you can notice what type of backing is used to hold them on. Probably easier to look at the women in your own life or visit a jewelry store or the jewelry counter at a big box store and learn about the different types and styles of making earrings stay in your ears. While you are there, study the clasps of chains and bracelets and the various sizes of rings. The girls/women wear the small diameter rings, ring sets, and often they will contain stones. The women will also wear the small gold bracelets, sometime with pendants, sometimes with stones, and small diameter chains, often with pendants. The men will wear the larger rings and the larger chains, and as mentioned above, certain cultures and lifestyles will wear even larger than normal gold. I was in a gold buyers shop a few months back and I saw a gentleman in there that had to have had at least $5,000 dollars worth of gold chain around his neck. Big links in the chains with big pendants in the shape of initials. He wasn’t selling, he was buying. So you have spent some time studying people and the jewelry they wear. And you have made the trip the jewelry counter or store and looked at how they are designed to stay on the body part they are intended to be wore on. You have seen the various earring retention systems; you have looked at the clasps of chains and bracelets. You have noticed the styles and sizes of rings. The next question is, “How is the jewelry separated from its respective body part?” That is a very good question. How do the earrings get out of the ears? How do the chains get off the neck? How do the rings come off the fingers? There are only two answers to that question. 1) They are taken off by the owner on purpose, or 2) They are accidently dislodged somehow. Let’s look at these individually. The first reason identified for jewelry separating from its respective body part was that it is taken off by the wearer on purpose. What is going to cause someone to remove a piece of jewelry? When I was young I remember my mom and grandmother taking off their wedding bands and placing them on the window sill before they did the dishes. Why? The main reason, of course, is for safe keeping. The item is removed so that it wouldn’t get lost or damaged. Let’s take that same thought pattern outside. So now we are outside. Folks are taking their jewelry off for safe keeping but where do they put it? Where is the first place you would put your ring if you took it off for safe keeping? In your pocket of course! What if you didn’t have a pocket? You’d give it to someone else who did have a pocket, or you’d put it somewhere you were pretty sure it would be safe. Somewhere you were confident you wouldn’t lose it, most likely with other stuff that you had to do the same thing with, or you would put it into something else, like a bag you brought with you. The second reason identified for jewelry separating from its owner is by it being accidently dislodged. Let’s think about that. What type of activity does it take to dislodge something that is designed to stay on your body unless you purposely remove it? Let’s use a men’s ring for an example. What type of activity does a man need to be involved in to lose his ring? He either has to have his hand in something that could potentially remove his ring when he removed his hand, or he had to engage in some sort of activity that would cause the ring to leave his finger. What would cause a chain to be dislodged from around a neck? The clasp has to either come open unexpectedly or the chain has to be caught in something that causes it to break. What would cause an earring to leave an ear? It has to lose its fastener, or be caught in something that would pull it from the ear, or both. How is something that is placed in a pocket or bag for safe keeping accidently leave its place of safe keeping? It has to fall out or be spilled out, or be accidently pulled out. Tip number two: Gold has to be hidden from eyesight for us to find it. How come when a piece of jewelry is lost the owner of the jewelry didn’t recover the lost piece? There are only two answers to this question. 1) They either didn’t know they had lost it, and/or, 2) It was lost in some type of media that could hide it from their eyes. There was something that prevented it from being found by only looking for it with their eyes. It could be sand, woodchips, gravel, grass, trash, leaves, anything that once something is dropped onto it or into it that makes it difficult to find with just your eyesight. Tip number three: Learn the loss characteristics of the items you find. Seek the answer to the question, “Why did I find what I found where I found it?” Once you think you have the answer, validate it by hunting other areas where that loss characteristic could be repeated and see if you find jewelry there. A validated loss characteristic is more valuable than the jewelry find itself. A few examples where I have found something and identified the items loss characteristic(s): I found a nice herringbone style 14kt gold chain on an athletic field. It was intact and the clasp was attached to its respective counterpart. The guy would have had to lose his head in order to lose the chain. But here it was down in the grass and there was no severed head with it. So how did it get there? This is an example of an item that was taken off for safekeeping and then lost. It wasn’t torn off, or flew off over his head, this had to come out of a pocket or bag, and I believe it was from a pocket as it wasn’t in a location where bags and such are normally staged. So what activity would normally take place where I found the chain that would cause it to come out of a pocket? Since it was a soccer field, I deduce it was something to do with running or perhaps falling down. I have found many items on athletic fields that were originally placed into a pocket or bag for safe keeping that was then subsequently lost. I found a little 10kt gold chain and pendant with a broken chain in the sand at a school playground. It was quite obvious from the broken chain that it had been torn from a child’s neck in some type of play activity. From the equipment around the find, along with subsequent chain finds in the same area around that equipment I deduce it is a great area for games of tag or some such activity as all the chains I found in that area have been broken. (a validated loss characteristic) I found a nice 14kt gold wedding band with three .20 carat diamonds mounted on it about five inches deep in some woodchips. Studying the situation, it was easy to see that a parent had been sitting on the curbing around the play ground, leaning back with their fingers buried in the loose wood chips watching their children play in the adjoining playground. When they removed their hands from the woodchips the ring was left behind and the parent either didn’t notice the ring was gone or noticed it but couldn’t find it. (validated loss characteristic) I found a nice wide wedding band near a goal post on a soccer field. It had obviously been left for safe keeping in that location, either with other possessions, or by itself and was either not recovered or fell out of a bag when the other possessions were recovered and hidden by the grass. (validated loss characteristic). Ok. So you have figured out the most likely reason a piece of jewelry was lost. Now what? Once it is understood why or how a particular item was lost, the next step is to seek out places where that particular loss characteristic can be repeated. Tip number four: Don’t dig trash, dig gold trash. Gold jewelry is a low conductive target on a metal detector and is found in the same range as aluminum trash. It is often a small target. Remember all those earrings and chains and rings and bracelets you saw at the jewelry counter? Small, low conductive objects that hide in the aluminum trash range can be tedious and hard to find. Even more so if you have to factor in ground minerals that can skew or even hide the signal of the jewelry item. So let’s think about that; small valuable targets mixed in with small aluminum trash that produces the same type readings on your metal detector. That means that to find the gold jewelry you will also have to sort through the trash. Doesn’t sound very promising, does it? Am I saying that to find the gold you have to dig it all? Nope. That is not what I am saying at all. What I am saying is that to find gold jewelry you have to dig all targets that have the highest probability of being gold. Now there are sites like woodchip and sand playground areas where you will want to recover every signal. But to do the same thing in a high use grassy park, athletic field or playground, trying to recover every signal is counterproductive. From your visit to the jewelry counter, you may have noticed that some of the chains have quite a bit of weight to them. A nice gold chain is a good find! Good money! So off I go to hunt chains. I’ve already used my mind, located a promising turf spot to hunt for chains and start digging all the pull tab signals. Hours later I have a hundred plus pull tabs, but no gold chains. Why? I was digging the wrong signals. Pull tabs would be the right targets to recover if I were hunting large rings, but worthless targets to recover if I am hunting gold chains. Especially so if you were in a site that you were confident would produce chains but not large rings. Get the picture? Let’s look at it a little differently. Let’s say that I get to my chain site and start digging all the signals. Now I have a chance to find a chain if it is there, but because I am digging everything I make very little progress on my site coverage, using up energy and time on non-chain targets. I have essentially cut done on my odds of actually finding the target I went out to find. To have the best odds of finding that gold chain I went looking for, I need to focus on signals that could actually be a gold chain and only recover those signals that could actually be a gold chain. Which leads to: Tip number five: the more ground you cover, the better your odds of recovering what you are looking for. By focusing only on the signal I’m after I can cover more ground and increase my odds of actually finding my desired object, which in this example is a gold chain. Tip number six: Gold is where you find it. Gold prospectors have a saying, “gold is where you find it.” That means that you hunt gold where it has been found in the past. Believe it or not, that same saying is true for jewelry. The characteristics that cause a piece of jewelry to be lost and hidden for you to find it with a metal detector are apt to be repeated again and again in the same location. When a gold prospector finds one nugget, he hunts the area carefully again, hoping to find another. When he does find another nugget in the same vicinity, it is called a “nugget patch”. As inland jewelry hunters we, too, are looking for a “patch”. In our case, a patch is a site or location where a particular loss characteristic can repeated again and again. We are not looking so much for that random find but rather that site location where that loss can be repeated again and again. That is a “patch” for a jewelry hunter. A successful jewelry hunter locates patches and then hunts his patches. Many of my jewelry items have come from the same locations that I have hunted again and again, another words, I have found them in my “patches”. Tip number seven: Hunt clad (modern coins) to improve your site reading skills. You say, “Well Mike that is all well and good for you. You have been doing this for a while now and know where to look. What about those of us which are new to the hobby, or maybe coming over to inland jewelry hunting from hunting relics or old coins?” My answer to you is to ‘hunt clad’. Sounds counter intuitive to hunt clad to find gold, but it’s not. Just like the relic hunter hunts for the iron to find the hot spots, so the inland jewelry hunter hunts clad to find the hot spots in parks, athletic fields and school playgrounds. Remember, unlike relics or old coins, jewelry is lost on a daily basis, just like modern clad coins, and often for the same reason. Clad will validate your site reading skills. Recovering the gold: The equipment. If you are going to focus on inland jewelry hunting with a metal detector there are certain features that make it easier to find. Just like any tool, the more appropriate the tool to the task, the easier the task becomes. Working on your car is much easier and efficient with a socket wrench set as compared to having only a pair of vise grips. You could still get the job done with the vise grips in many cases but it would be a tedious and tiring affair. The same thing can apply when it comes to your jewelry hunting tools. You can find jewelry with any metal detector, but it is easier if the metal detector has certain features. The first feature your detector needs is the ability to focus your attention onto your desired target signals. The easiest way to do this is with tone ID. Tone id allows you to discriminate the audio signals with your ears. If you are hunting ladies rings, you have to be able to tell the foil signals apart from all the other responses. Tone Id allows you to do this fast and easily. The better you can focus the tone id onto a certain conductivity range, the better the detector will function for jewelry hunting. A second, and a complimentary feature to tone id is Notch Discrimination. Notch Discrimination is the ability to discriminate out (or in) a range of target signals independent of the base discrimination setting. Again, focus is the key. The more you are focused on the desired signals, the more of the proper signals you will recover for the amount of area searched and the greater will be your success. The third feature is sensitivity to small low conductors. Traditionally this has been accomplished by using higher frequencies units, and is still preferred; however there are some machines on the market today that can give the needed sensitivity with lower frequencies than has been used in the past. Still, the bottom line is that your detector needs to be able to put out some heat on the lower conductive targets. The forth feature is recovery speed. How fast the machine resets after reporting so that you can hear the next target. This is important as the objects you are looking for are lying next to, below, or above other objects that you are not looking for. And they are small. My first gold jewelry find was two gold rings on a large paper clip. The paper clip response nearly completely masked the ring responses but the Fisher CoinStrike I was using at that time had a fast enough response speed that I was able to hear them as distinct, separate signals. I consider those the four most important features a metal detector needs to be a useful gold jewelry hunter. If you live in an area where the ground minerals are influential on signal responses like I do then you have to include ground cancelling features. There are other factors that can make one machine better than another like visual signal presentations, coil selections and such like. But as long as you have a unit that is fairly quick responding and will let you focus on a desired signal and put some heat on it, you are good to go. HH Mike Hillis
  22. How many New targets are we really finding? To answer this question it is a bit more 'complicated' than just a new coil vs an old coil or a new detector vs an old detector although those are part of the variables. This question now comes to mind when I am using the GPZ 19 on previously worked patches. When I go to the beach and grid a box that is 100x100 with my 3030 I will find targets. If I assume there are 50 targets within that area and I get 20 I might be doing pretty good without knowing for sure the total potential targets and how long I take to hunt it out. I will not find them all ... I will miss some ... and then I'll move on to another pocket ... sometimes. The number I miss depends on my grid pattern, the type of target, if I overlap my swing, soil/salt conditions, discrimination level, shape of target and of course, depth. If I am finding really good targets and I go back over this area I might find 5 more that I missed the first time ... and I still haven't gotten them all. If a friend of mine comes over that same square with his White's Surfmaster Dual Field PI he might find 15 targets. Some of these targets would be new (12) and some missed (3). (Those are just guesses but you get my point.) The point is that the PI will find New targets because it can go deeper and see invisible targets but it is also possible to find missed targets that my 3030 could still see if I went over it. When I use the GPZ 19 looking for meteorites I am primarily looking for missed targets because the targets are so shallow. This includes going to a new area previously undetected because part of the 'miss' is not going to an area because of luck or inadequate research. Now when I am out on a gold patch with the GPZ 19 I am looking for missed targets and New targets. An advantage of the GPZ 19 on the missed targets is that it is a much larger coil. It is also a more advanced, quieter technology. (Missed targets need to be a bit larger because the GPZ 14 will see smaller targets than the GPZ 19.) New targets (those not detectable with the GPZ 14) would be those that are deeper and those 'invisible' to the GPZ 14. My mentors have been going over old patches with new technology for years. Some of what they find is New and some of what they find is missed even to this day. So this is an 'old game' with just a new player (me) hoping to be productive while swinging. I want to find something every trip. Am I going to find more missed targets than New targets? It depends on where I search so I need a mix of new ground and hunted out patches. There is still deep gold! Slow, deliberate and methodical gridding will have to win the New targets (if the patch has depth) and the missed targets will follow. This will mean many skunk days. The old patches aren't being replenished unless it is a wash. Mitchel (added after Chuck's response))
  23. I have had some sucess finding nuggets with a Fisher Gold Bug Pro but recently went out with a friend who has a Minelab 5000. He was easily picking up nuggets where the GB gave no indication at all. I realised I needed something better but was not sure what would be appropriate. The 5000 is rather large and heavy for carrying a long distance and is complicated compared with the GB Is there any recommendation as to a detector that is significantly better than the GB but has its lightweight features and ease of use? I suppose the Minelab 7000 would be even less likely to meet my needs.?I am not very fit and only get out gold detecting a few times a year.
  24. Jason made a comment on another thread about the virtues of not getting bogged down hunting small gold. I wanted to comment without getting off topic so here goes. In my opinion big nuggets generally go to the first coil over them. They are big and so kind of hard for any good detector to miss. Let's say there is a nugget that a detector can hit at 20". That means as long as any of those nuggets or larger exist in the top 20" you get them. Now you go back and hunt with a machine that can hit those same nuggets to 24". The problem is for all intents and purposes you are now detecting only 4" of additional depth, and the odds of one of those targets being in 4" of ground is far less than the odds of one being in 20" of ground. And in fact due to the way many desert placers form, your odds are even worse because many desert placers get leaner the deeper you go. Those big deep nuggets of your imagination may just not be there, as has been proved by many (not all) failed bulldozer pushes. There is therefore a lot to be said for Jason's method of covering lots of hopefully virgin ground fast with larger coils to go for the larger gold even if you give up some depth doing it. I spent much of my detecting career hunting like that. The problem is pretty simple. It is getting very hard to find virgin ground that has good enough gold for this method. Days if not weeks can pass between decent finds, making this only for people with lots of time and extreme patience. My method now generally has shifted to cleanup mode. Hunting slowly and methodically chasing smaller gold with the GPZ with the idea that any deeper nuggets I get over will take care of themselves. Oftentimes for most well hunted areas that means only getting small gold but at least I am finding gold, and the GPZ hits about as small as anyone could wish. And if a larger one comes along I have high confidence I will nail it easily enough. As anyone can attest however, those big ones are getting very rare. Novices in particular I have to recommend slow and careful, going for the small stuff. Finding gold, any gold at all, is an extremely important confidence builder and essential if the novice is not going to quit the game after only a few outings. If money is no object, there in my opinion is no surer way to get some gold than to get an SDC 2300 and go as slow and as methodically as possible with it. If you can't find gold with a 2300 you are in entirely the wrong locations, or electronic prospecting simply is not for you.
  25. I hope you can help me. Years ago I saw a science fair project that had a large powerful magnet. The magnet was held up about two feet over the surface. A piece of string was attached to the surface with an piece of iron tied to the other end. The magnet was powerful enough to pull the piece of iron straight up, the entire length of the string. There was a bout a foot gap between between the magnet and the piece of iron. It was really cool looking. Anyone know where I can find such a magnet? Thank you.