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Found 175 results

  1. So... the 800 will be my very first detector. Ultimately I want to be a nugget hunter, but I'm starting as a coin and relic hunter to get a feel for the job and it's routines. Those factors in mind, whats the best pointer that's gonna be with me through it all?
  2. Come to find that forum member Mike Haer has a weekly podcast each Monday that I have been generally oblivious to though I think I linked to it in the past on a given subject. Anyway, Mike had another new forum member, George Kinsey, on last week and the forum was mentioned. Many hours of listening available there from past shows so check it out. And thanks for the mention guys!! https://www.spreaker.com/show/all-metal-modes-show Mike’s Website
  3. Ad blocking Let's start a "Disable your adblocker on Detectorprospector.com Campaign" -Update - Let's also rally to get Steve to add a donate button! I have an Ad Blocker on my Google Chrome, the reason is to stop being bombarded with junk advertising and spyware and so on, however, there is a downside to this, genuine sites like this one which only has minor advertising and it's very unobtrusive helps pay for the site to exist in the first place. Once I noticed I rapidly disabled my ad blocker on this site, Steve deserves every penny that advertising brings in to keep the site up and running and as good as it is, so it would be absolutely fantastic if people using ad blocking can all disable it on this site, on my ublock origin it's simple to do, I click one little button and it will work on every other site but disable its ad blocking for this site. Most people like me probably haven't given it a thought, ad blocking is always on as a form of protection on most peoples Browser but I am sure you all agree the last thing we want to do is take revenue off Steve which would contribute to keeping the site running. I have been made aware Steve pays $1200 USD a year to keep this site running and gets between 1c and 3c's for every ad we click on, takes a whole lot of ad clicks to clock up $1200 not to mention the countless hours he spends here giving us all advice and comparisons and information I feel is vital, I'd be lost in my new pursuit of metal detecting without this place. He deserves every bit of coin we can get him out of the advertising on this site. All the advertising I've seen so far since disabling my adblocker is the odd small little banner ad from Minelab, I don't mind seeing them at all, I actually quite like them and they're small and not obstructive, there is no porn ads or any such rubbish. I click on it to give Steve his advertising revenue and it just took me to Minelab's website. So let's start the campaign and help Steve out, he's forever helping us all out. Disable your adblocker for this site, you'll hardly notice you've done it, and click on the odd ad knowing every time you do, you're doing Steve a favor. Thank you for your time. Simon
  4. My wife wants a macro zoom for her Nikon..... I want to make sure we get one that will take good close up pics of gold/coins, etc. How about posting a good pic and telling what you used to take it? Finding gold is neat.... being able to show it is good too.
  5. I seem to be struggling with pinpointing. If anyone has any pointers on pinpointing, I would be appreciative. My previous detecting experience is with a 1980s Garret Master Hunter 5 with a concentric coil. Between that style coil and the ability to detune in all metal, it was very easy and accurate. Now I am trying to learn the Equinox and I am having problems identifying the center lobe on a double D coil return. When I enter the pinpointing mode and sweep side to side, I get inconsistent feedback from one angle vs the 90 degree offset. I am digging allot in trying to learn the process and it seems I pick the wrong lobe about 50 percent of the time. Any tips other than just keep digging?
  6. I sure don't like digging them do you? So what can a user do, that's easy to expose a lot of them, so you don't waste your time digging. This procedure here seems to work for me although I haven't swept all known steel bottlecaps. An Equinox 800 user will have it a tad easier doing. Using multi frequency can expose some bottle caps with lower target ID, even scratchy tone, but why stand over one trying to decipher when there is I think a better way to be more conclusive. Try the following at home on a few. Sweep using multi frequency - Noting ID in the meter. Then toggle to 5khz and sweep and note meter reading. Notice anything? You should see rather high ID- a lot higher than you witnessed using multi frequency. Try doing the above using piece of gold jewelry, a nickel, any low or mid conductor (nonferrous). And see if they when compared using multi frequency and 5khz, ID as the steel bottlecaps do. Now a model 600 user has 2 options to get to 5khz to check- Either cycle over to 5khz using freq button, or have a detect mode set up with 5khz then scroll to the mode you selected to install 5khz. Equinox 800 model users can do the above, but easier to have a program saved using your user profile button. Then all you have to do is hit this button to check a suspect target, and when done hit the user profile button again and you are back to your detect program you were using initially. Give this a try. Btw, what happens if you hit a gold ring say, that reads low like 12 using Mulit freq, and cycle and check using 5 kHz, Well it may read very similar to what it read using Mulit freq or lower or not at all (usually deeper ). If this happens this would likely show what's under your coil is not a steel bottlecap. Don't confuse aluminum twist caps for steel bottlecaps. Unfortunately aluminum twist caps there are no "not even" close ways to discern them from a possible good nonferrous target. They will ID like some coins can, even some worthy jewelry, etc. Most bottlecaps will read ID wise lower than the copper and silver coins, but high quality caps like off Corona beer bottles can read more near even in the coin range, you hit these with 5khz they should read real high comparing to ID attained using multi frequency,. Now some folks might not dig the signals that report typically in the 10-17 range, but passing on such ID targets could infact make you miss a nice nonferrous find. The procedure above I think will help put some odds in your favor for distinguish bottle caps.
  7. Does anybody here readily know how to check exactly how much longer your warranty is good for right off hand? I registered my minelab and didn’t get a confirmation so was wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction.
  8. The last time I was out west to prospect was around Prescott Valley, Arizona on Rose creek. I could not figger out why I was out of breath just carrying a few tools and a Tesoro Lobo detector around? I had to stop every 50 feet and try to catch my breath. And I am not a smoker either. Just some asthma and allergy issues. Had the same issue around Rich Hill area. Well, then I noticed elevation signs about 4000 and 5000 foot altitudes. Hmm, having lived around Chicago now for almost 40 years and a bit of asthma as well, maybe that's the issue since we are at 500 feet above sea level.? So, how do I get my lungs up to speed when on vacations to gold country and the elevations ? Is there a reason why gold and minerals tend to be at higher elevations vs low ones? -Tom V.
  9. Moving To Florida

    I will be moving to the Clearwater area in July. Anyone on this forum that is in the area and is willing to show me the ropes of beach detecting? I currently am landlocked in the western U.S., so I don't have any idea how to read a beach. The only beach success I have had was on vacation in Puerto Rico a few years back. I took my AT Pro and found out quickly that it is not so good on the beach! However, the night before leaving the island, checking through the finds from the week, there was a copper Maravedi from just after 1500--something I thought was junk. Goes to show that we should take the junk with us and check our finds before pitching them in the trash. I have an Equinox 800 on the way, so salt and water should not be a problem now.
  10. Hoping someone can help me out. I just need to know in basic terms what is the best way to customize a program? I spent an hour or so modifying the coins and jewelry program to be an exact copy of Magic's renowned program only to accidentally overwrite my changes in the last steps. So I just want to know what method (steps) I should use to modify the program and then rename it as "Magic". I'd like to retain the coins and jewelry program as well so ultimately I'd prefer to overwrite the 'common' program. thanks in advance, Hibby
  11. Simple Detecting Exercise Before attempting to find real targets, it is important to understand how to interpret the audio and visual signals of the detector. Nail or Screw Pull-Tab Tiny Coin Fine Gold Ring Large Coin Small Coin Heavy Silver Chain 1. Gather a collection of different metal objects, e.g. various coins, gold and silver jewelry, a nail, a pull-tab, a brass button and aluminum foil. 2. Take the detector outdoors, away from known sources of electromagnetic interferences (EMI) and metal objects. 3. Lay the objects in a line, sufficiently spaced apart to allow the coil to pass between them. 4. Sweep the coil across the test targets one at a time. Observe the Detect Screen and listen to the sounds of the detector as it passes over each object. The Detect Screen and audio response will give you detailed information about the Target ID. Don’t worry if the detector is not producing a sound over the nail — this is because the detector begins in the default Park Mode Profile 1, which rejects signals from common trash targets, including ferrous targets. If you are getting signals from a clear patch of ground, there could be buried metal objects. Try finding a different area. You may like to make a record of the Target IDs for each of your targets. When you go detecting, always carry a 'test target' with you, e.g. a coin, which is similar to the targets you are looking for. Bury it at around 4 – 6 inches within your detecting location and adjust your EQUINOX settings until the desired response is heard over the test target. This way you are guaranteed to detect the same types of targets if they are there. Remember to dig up your test target after you are finished!
  12. Which do you consider the best of the two and why? Thanks Bill
  13. Which of these two would you consider the best for coins etc? Thanks Bill
  14. We all convinced our wives we needed the Equinox because if we didn't get one we'd never find another thing with our current detectors because they are old technology. We also forgot to tell her how much the Equinox cost. Not that it's over priced it's just that we didn't tell her. Valentines day is coming up and that means, roses, chocolates and a nice dinner..Lets say total cost for that day is $200 unless you're like me and live 10 minutes from 8 casinos then the cost is more. Now the wife thinks ok he knows he has to be nice every Valentines day so he can't count that as doing something special.. My wife has been unusually quiet about the Equinox until last night. I was informed we are taking a lil trip for a week.. Ya'll know that cost more than an Equinox. Preliminary cost $800+ for hotel, $600+ for meals and $300+ for gas not counting the clothes and other junk she buys.. I am guessing that I will drop $2000 before it's over.
  15. Found this large piece on my property in east-central Ohio. It looks much like petrified wood but not quite as slick as many specimens I have seen. It's also not very common to find in my part of Ohio (Licking County). Is there any way to test to see if it is indeed silicified or petrified wood?
  16. If I remember correctly, around this time during the new year is when you share your thoughts about new detectors that may be hitting the market. I mean come on !! It is the first week in February and nothing from you. I know it has been slow with new detectors lately....nothing from Nokta or White's. Even with some of the other premiere metal detector manufacturers like Minelab....not a peep from you or anyone else. OK.....Sorry Steve I just had to do it....HAAAAAA HAAAAA....I think we could all use a little humor right now
  17. Do Hip and or Complete Knee replacements screw with metal detectors of any make or model ? Of course I'm talking about being out in wild while using one.
  18. Spending time at Steve's website peaked an interest I hadn't had previously. I want to find a nugget with a detector! I am on the waiting list for the ML EQ 800 and have seen the small nuggets are that the detector is capable of finding! The questions: I live in in Northeast Ohio, I have seen videos picking up dust high-banking. Will I find nuggets here? If not and I want to be a casual (once in a couple years) prospector and travel abroad should I join a club? As you can probably tell I am not too terribly serious about it, but it would be something fun to do with my children from time to time. Hopefully by the time I die I have a small collection to pass on to them to visualize the time we spent together! Thanks for your time!
  19. No gem and mineral show near me so I need help. The closest rock club is two hours south. I go beach combing a couple times a week if the weather and tides are good. I look and find agates, sea glass, seal bones and driftwood. But I also find things I can not identify like the rock in my photo. I found it on the beach. It looks like obsidian with clear and green inclusions. It is as big as a goose egg. Everything looks like glass slag but I do not know of any glass factory north of me. (I am 20 miles south of Oregon) I would think if is was slag more pieces would also be seen, even very tiny. Any ideas?
  20. Hello all. I have a bit of a strange question which may or may not belong in the detecting section ... Recently I ran across a hardrock mine (this is in the western United States by the way) in which there were several drifts cut into the mountain above each other (assuming I have my terminology correct). Outside of each of the horizontal shafts were two piles of ore (with quartz and visible gold in some of it). One pile always seemed to have been classified or crushed to less than an inch while the other pile (usually much larger-approx 15' high) was 3-4 inches in size. It was in the larger pile that I typically saw the small gold. This was obviously an old operation and there were many hundereds of old rusted out cans outside of the mine at the bottom of the mountain. I was wondering if anyone could describe (in general) the typical operation the old timers would run to extract their gold which typically results in two piles nearby each horizontal shaft? These piles are hundreds of feet up on the hillside. In this case it seems like they have left a lot of gold. I am sure I could crush and pan a lot of ore but I am primarily interested in detecting these piles for the slightly larger stuff that may have missed their well trained eyes. But to properly metal detect such piles, I would like to get an idea of the basic steps these miners were taking with these piles. I appreciate any input.
  21. Alright, Thought I would share a few experiences I had today while detecting in the wild. A 3 hour hunt with split time between round and elliptical HF coils. Made a few finds using both coils. I ran the hot program while actually hunting. But used gold field program to check some targets. Glad I did too. Payed off. Here is pic. Notice the bracelet with the name on it. Gent is still a kicking and in his 80s now, bracelet likely lost back in late50s early 60s. I showed it to his sister actually. What about this bracelet portion? I hope folks don't laugh here, what I am going to say, but it is true. I was when I found this, in the same area where cut Spanish bit and half dime came from back in the summer. I'll bet I have swung a Deus detector, others too over this bracelet buried over 300 times. And I heard it likely every time but didn't dig. Why? Probably the same reason why is the same reason I wouldn't have dug again today except for the mighty gold field program. I swept this bracelet (not knowing) with hot program and the signal I got, I would have bet the farm it was relic iron. A very tight super high short blaring signal. I actually remember getting this same tone here previously many times before. Remember this place does infact have old relic iron smaller, medium sized and bigger all over. So in the past I was writing this target off as iron. Today after I hit the target, I toggled over to gold field same freq run as my hot program Reactivty 2.5. When Iistened to this target using gold field, a nice sounding signal smooth on the edges, usually a good giveaway it is infact nonferrous. And sure enough it was. One more target I dug today I will discuss, and again using gold field gave me some additional Intel to actually recover find. The old button in the pic. I located it with round HF coil but the tone signature was crippled big time, with multiple tones being had as I swept. I repeated sweep several times and I would have gave < 15 % chance of nonferrous even existing beneath my coil. But checking target with gold field even even running 1 level lower (slower) Reactivty (level 2.5) I got more to go on vs the disc mode hot program, meaning now my odds went up to >50 % chance of being nonferous based on what I heard. To conclude here. I won't BS folks here. Using the HF coils running 28.8khz they can be sharper in iron vs the LF coils. A person will get used to if they apply themselves. One thing I will mention here and this too is a good weapon (using gold field to check suspect targets) is using disc program sometimes Deus audio will get caught, trying to sound off extremely close to iron range, and a user may be thinking is what I hear nonferrous or is it iron. When you get these, if you hit them with gold field and you hear nothing, or you hear a signal more corrupt vs what you heard using disc mode program, you can almost bet the farm what you are hearing is iron. Now this applies moreso to shallow and middepth targets. Cheers.
  22. Hello, you have the experience of working with the Royal Basic device of BR products If you have, please send me your work experience as a videotape 2 If possible, send or reply to the code or id to this system Thank You
  23. Camera

    Hello I want to record with the camera in case of metal detection with detector I can find these cameras thank you very much??
  24. Most Hi-Tech, most user friendly, understanding that the most expensive isn't necessarily the best, and if it had to be the ONLY one you own. GO!
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