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Tiftaaft

Quest For Silver

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Thanks Mike, I will check that out.  I also use HistoricalAerials.com which is where I was able to pull a sat image from the early 50's, and how I discovered the location of the old school.  Hopefully the Google Earth Pro images are better than HA, but both are good tools for research.  Tim

 

 

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3 hours ago, Tiftaaft said:

 I also use HistoricalAerials.com which is where I was able to pull a sat image from the early 50's, and how I discovered the location of the old school.

Um, Sputnik 1 launched Oct. 4 1957.

I've said that before too. :cool:

Pretty sure those images were photographed by aliens and fell into human hands back in 1947 at Roswell :wink:

 

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See if you can find a Sanborn map with the school on it.  Check and see if your local college or university has them in their library, some even have them online for free.  If you find one with the school, it should show, 1) where the outhouse was, and 2) where the biggest tree in the school yard was.  Those 2 locations would be tops on my list.

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19 hours ago, Deft Tones said:

Um, Sputnik 1 launched Oct. 4 1957.

I've said that before too. :cool:

Pretty sure those images were photographed by aliens and fell into human hands back in 1947 at Roswell :wink:

 

I stand corrected DT... not a "Sat Image" but a flyover image.  I am sure if the images were taken by aliens... the quality would have been better. ';)

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17 hours ago, MontAmmie said:

See if you can find a Sanborn map with the school on it.  Check and see if your local college or university has them in their library, some even have them online for free.  If you find one with the school, it should show, 1) where the outhouse was, and 2) where the biggest tree in the school yard was.  Those 2 locations would be tops on my list.

Thanks Ammie,  I did find some Sanborn Maps at the local library online, so great suggestion!!  Now I just need to figure out how to read them. 

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On ‎10‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 1:09 PM, Steve Herschbach said:

Great post! I got my start detecting silver way, way back in the day. Then I transitioned to gold detecting and coin detecting sort of fell by the wayside. Even when not nugget detecting my time in town tends to get spent looking more for jewelry than coins.

Steve,  I have been thinking about this comment a lot since you posted it.  While I have taken it as a challenge to squeak out a silver coin from this older school... as I mentioned, I have been really considering how to find the "renewable" treasures in town (I am limited in my area for nugget detecting, though that is a whole other area of research I am just starting to embark upon).  You noted that you spend your "in town" hunting time focused on jewelry.. so I guess I have a couple of questions on how you approach that, or some assumptions that you will most likely dispel.  (This thread should probably be in the jewelry section... so feel free to move it over if you see fit).

I am assuming that you focus on areas that are heavily populated and have a lot of activity.  Parks with soccer fields and ball fields for example.  I am talking about turf hunting in this case, I also look to swimming holes and the ocean beach as well, but that is a whole other thread.  As far as equipment.. I would also assume that you are using a machine that will run at a higher frequency to bang on the lower conductive targets, and depending on the area... a larger coil to cover more ground.  What are your thoughts on tot lots?  Of course a smaller coil would be better suited here, but I haven't found more than modern coins at mine... and a lot of foil... just curious if this is a good target location?  It goes without saying that you have to dig a lot of targets... which I don't mind.  Also, in all the talk about "going deep" with detectors... I am also assuming that jewelry detecting places less importance on the deep targets... and I guess this is the ultimate question I have.  Do you (or DT or Ammie, or anyone else) focus on the top 4-5" when turf hunting, or should I be looking for low conductive deep targets as well?  My assumption (I am really making a lot of assumptions here... and you know what they say...) is that I would be looking for recent drops (since the sports fields in question are not usually on old ground in my area... or at least not ground that was more than wide open farm and forest land before becoming a sports field in the last 20 years) so the targets wouldn't have sunk deeper.

A friend of mine is the Ring Finder in this area, and he uses a Makro Gold Racer.  I have been looking at the killer deals on the F19 right now.  Anxious as many of us are on the Equinox E800... Thinking about finding a good used Xterra for the 18.75Khz coil option.  Just wanting to be sure I have all my facts in line with my assumptions. 

Thanks for any thoughts you may have (or links to previous threads where you already answered these questions).  Tim.

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5 hours ago, Tiftaaft said:

Thanks Ammie,  I did find some Sanborn Maps at the local library online, so great suggestion!!  Now I just need to figure out how to read them. 

If you need help, just shoot me a PM.  I've been reading those things since I was 25, which was about 10 years ago. :laugh:

When dirt hunting for jewelry I go for the easy pull tabs and can slaw.  If my sun-ray pin pointer won't find it (2-3 inches, tops), I skip it.  I think it's a numbers game in city parks and such.  Maybe one out of 100 targets will be something good?  Deft can probably answer that question.  Last time I went to the park, I gave up after pull tab number 34.

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Even a blind squirrel.....

So i stopped at a park that should have been old enough for some wheats or silver, but most of the park has been upgraded with ball fields and soccer fields.  I spent most of my time walking the outer edge.of the park, hoping to stay away from the over fill..  I did manage about $5.00 in clad and one crusty wheat.  I decided to take the explorer loaded with the ultimate coil across the soccer field for mid tones (not the best choice, but it is what I had with me).  Very clean field, which is why a nice mid tone jumped out at me.  It hit just below a zinc and above a pull tab on the explorer id screen (I use the cursor, not the id numbers).  About 3 inches down... 6 grams of 10K.  I think it was an accident as much as anything... but since I just posted the questions about gold turf hunting earlier today, I thought I would share.  (Apologies for muddying the coin shooting blog with a ring). Tim

20171016_153758-790x890.jpg

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Very nice!

For me jewelry detecting is first and foremost about ease of recovery and sheer numbers. I have two basic ranges I hunt. All non-ferrous OR all non-ferrous up to but not including zinc pennies. This eliminates all coins except nickels. I will however often will notch quarters back in however as they pay for batteries.

Part 2 is get target, and stab it with pinpointer. If pinpointer sees it, pop with screwdriver, move on. If pinpointer can't spot it, too deep, move on. Nearly all my targets will be trash, so I do not want to waste time digging deep targets.

Favorite sites are anywhere people are active. Sports fields obviously and tot lots, but any large open area in a park has probably been used for frisbee or whatever.

Since depth is not the goal a BigFoot or Cleansweep coil is killer for this application.

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Congratulations on the nice ring! :cool:

Athletic areas can be very productive depending on who is using them. For example, I wouldn't waste effort looking for gold at a children's field on the field, but the sidelines to curbs where adults spend tons of time are prime areas for that kind of park.

Parks that are used to host community events are potential producers. I particularly like the "after 5" drink fests the many Jaycees in the area put on. The "movie in the park" nights are worth a look too.

You got it, 5-6 inches max in clean areas, most of the time. Moderate to heavy trash at older parks worked in layers.  The really trashed out parks in layers of depth and discrimination. In both cases working high to low.

When I've found a patch worth working bare I like to pull all the clean repeatable signals first.Then second pass take those signals I think are trash but hard to positively ID as such. By the third or fourth pass it's mostly trash, sometimes junk jewelry, but never gold jewelry yet.

You need to test your unit on deep/fringe signals (whatever that is for your soil). You may be shocked what happens. V3i will ID low or as iron. Deus tends to drive tone higher before dropping out, ime.

You want a unit that runs 12Khz at a minimum, IMO. Earrings and thin chains bang harder with higher frequencies. 18khz is an excellent frequency for most jewelry hunting.

I don't feel I need anything more than 22.5khz for a park. If it's that small I need a 45khz unit to find it, I don't want it. :laugh:

 

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