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Gold Bug Pro Coil Options For Gold Prospecting

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Thanks, I shall contact him and introduce myself,  I had a read of what he's been up to, seems to be very knowledgable on to the local area.



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4 hours ago, phrunt said:

I have purchased 2 Gold Bug Pro's and an original T2 which I want to use for Gold Prospecting, ....

I have the 5" coil for the T2 and a Mars Tiger along with the standard 11" coil, so which of those coils do you think will be best to find small gold nuggets?

For the Gold Bug Pro's I have a Nel Snake, a Cors Fortune and the 10" Fisher coil, 5" standard coil and 11" standard coil.  Which coils should I put on the Gold Bugs? 

I also have a Gold Bug Pro and a Fisher F75 (which is a close cousin of the T2).  I've mostly done coin/relic/jewelry hunting but have used the GBP for native gold searching.  Since there are only two of you, three detectors, and your goal is finding gold I would concentrate your efforts with the two Gold Bug Pros.  First off, they are higher frequency (19 kHz vs. 13 kHz), are lighter in weight, and were designed specifically for gold hunting.  The T2 is very capable (as Steve notes) as a gold detector, but it was designed as an all-around detector, meaning it's a "jack-of-all-trades and master at none".  Secondly, the GBP's are very easy to operate, having few adjustments to make.  Set the ground balance, the threshold, the gain and you're off to the fields!  One thing to note:  'simple' doesn't mean 'inferior'.  There's a reason 'gold' and 'pro' are in the detector's name.  The T2 has more options as far as settings, and takes longer to master.

As far as coils, I would put the 5 in. X 10 in. on one and the 5 in. round on the other.  Keep the 7 in. X 11 in. in reserve for if/when you find a spot with larger pieces.  The small (especially) and medium coils are well balanced on the Pro.  The larger coil on the GBP is toe heavy and will lead to fatigue on long hunts.

Good fortune in both your finds and especially your enjoyment!


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Thanks for the tips! I feel much more confident now as I have been given a wealth of useful information


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well I found a tiny nugget the other day with my sluice, .26 of a gram, the T2 with 5" coil signals off on it just over 1.3", the Gold Bug Pro with the 10" elliptical coil sounds off nicely with it at 2.2 inches and the Gold Bug Pro with Nel Snake coil gets it nicely at 2.8 inches.  I guess I've found the best coil to use for my tiny nugget hunting.   The 10" would cover more ground but I feel i'd find it easier with the Nel Snake.

Obviously I did a very amateur test but kept the settings the same on both Gold Bug Pro's

Inside my house has a lot of interference but it messes with the T2 more than the Gold Bugs.











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13 minutes ago, phrunt said:

Inside my house has a lot of interference but it messes with the T2 more than the Gold Bugs.

That sounds like what I've heard -- 13 kHz to 15 kHz detectors can be more sensitive than 19 kHz regarding EMI.  Of course detecting inside your house? :wacko:  Probably crawling with EMI.  And the T2 gives you the option of tweaking the frequency (I think; the Fisher F75 does).

Time to find a nugget with a detector.  :biggrin:

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that's the plan, only problem is all the gold i've found is more than 2 inches underground


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I have noticed with my sub gram nugget that unless it's within a couple of inches of the coil on the Gold Bug Pro it won't show on the bar across the top where it's telling you the numbers of what metal it is, at more than 2 or so inches it makes a zip zip sort of noise when I go over it but nothing on the top bar.  I do notice the ground phase numbers (the big ones in the center of the screen) change from what the ground balance numbers are to numbers in the 40's to 50's as I wave over it.  Is this what I'm looking for out in gold country when I am searching for tiny nuggets? I assume they won't show up on the top bar either, they will just change the ground phase and perhaps make a zipish noise, would I be right in thinking this way?

If this is so, I think i've passed over many nuggets and ignored them as I thought they would show up on the top bar in between say 35 and 60, I totally ignored signals when they just showed on the big numbers in the middle.

Sorry if my question seems silly, I'm very new to this.


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Not silly at all.  The dial ID reading (some call it a 'speedometer') on the Gold Bug family of detectors uses the discrimination circuitry.  As such it's not as sensitive as the all-metal (first derivate) ciruitry.  So weak signals won't give a reading on the dial.

Typcically the ground phase will drop on a conductive target (including iron but also including positive hot rocks).  So this is a good sign in general but specifics (especially in widely varying ground) can complicate things.  I have used the lowering of the ground phase for weak signals as an indication to dig.

Gold detectors (I think it's every one) are meant to signal when the threshold sound changes.  (Obviously this requires you to set up a low volume threshold.  Kevin Hoagland says "you want the threshold to sound like a mosquito buzzing around your ear.")  Even with strong enough signals to get a dial reading on the Gold Bug, gold can be all over the map, including in the upper iron range (i.e. 30's).  From what I've read and heard, most successful gold hunters (fossikers?) hunt by ear most of the time.  Others here can give you better instruction on that.

Bottom line is your detector is working and you are working to try and understand what it's telling you.  Keep it up!

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That was explained well, now I understand it. thanks so much


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If you haven't read the following, It comes highly recommended.  Written by one of the design engineers of the Gold Bug, and in fact a design engineer for many gold detectors over his 35+ year career.


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    • By Steve Herschbach
      Despite all the noise about pulse induction (PI) metal detectors these days I firmly believe that in the United States most beginning and many professional nugget hunters are often better served with a good mid-frequency VLF. For beginners I think it is more important to master the real skills involved in prospecting before investing a ton of money in a metal detector. If you can't find gold with a $700 detector there is little point in investing thousands of dollars in a detector that still probably will not find the person any gold.

      Perhaps a PI is required in most of Australia but I have seen very few places in the United States where a good VLF will not work very well or at least well enough. Certainly in Alaska that is the case, where low mineral ground and smallish gold is the norm. Even locations where large gold lurks are so loaded with iron junk a PI detector has a hard go of it. It is nearly impossible to convince die-hard PI users to accept this until they experience it for themselves.

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