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3 Hours At The Beach With The Equinox 800


Thegoldenone

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Great report. I'm hitting the beach tomorrow but I'm just going to hit the wet sand and then the dry. Would you recommend taking the coil cover off for beach hunting only? 

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8 hours ago, Gerry in Idaho said:

I do week long hunts 2x a year and wonder if you feel the shaft connections will be fine or lock up?  We have had some detectors in times past the shafts get fine sand in them and freeze up. 

The shaft is already starting to feel a little gritty I rinse heavily with fresh water after every hunt... being that the lower shaft is some type of plastic fiber, I'm not sure if it will lock up only time will tell! I drilled a hole the same size as the other holes about an inch and a half from the base of the rod and now when I walk up on the beach after being in the water it's no longer heavy, the water just gushes out! 

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8 hours ago, Skate said:

Great report. I'm hitting the beach tomorrow but I'm just going to hit the wet sand and then the dry. Would you recommend taking the coil cover off for beach hunting only? 

I think you'll be fine on the dry and damp beach it's when you go in the water that the sand seems to work its way in underneath the coil cover... I'm sure they're expensive so this will be the first time I will use a coil cover.... I'm looking for some black silicone caulking to seal the coil cover

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March 1st hunt my second,  approximately 8 hours in the water and yes I came out looking like a prune.....

Any suggestions I make in this post are for saltwater beach hunting!

As you can see in the photo I found a ton of aluminum, and those little tabs off the pull rings, ring out Target ID 9 10 + 11 some of those were a good two solid scoops down in the sand! Also found a junk ring, junk earring and I don't count the clad or pennies! They're just in the photo so you can see what I scooped up!

I changed the tones, moved up the gold and lower ID numbers to a higher pitch that helped out tremendously as far as letting me know where something was quickly...

I'm thinking next time I'll go to two tone and try that....

Drilled a hole in the lower shaft approximately an inch and a half from the bottom of the shaft now when you walk up out of the water onto the beach, it just gushes out!

This machine is extremely powerful!

I would never tell anyone to turn their sensitivity down on any machine except for this one, for junk filled beaches! And when I'm talkin junk filled beaches I could sit in a 10 x 10 foot spot and spend all day picking out every little target! I guess I'm just looking for gold and little gold chains are okay but the amount of junk on this beach I would have to dig to find one would be unbelievable!

I'm still learning this machine and I have a long ways to go!

I'm taking today off to get some stuff done and rest, tomorrow I'm going to the sandbar where everybody hangs out with their boats and parties in the water...

20180302_073322.jpg

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3 hours ago, Thegoldenone said:

I think you'll be fine on the dry and damp beach it's when you go in the water that the sand seems to work its way in underneath the coil cover... I'm sure they're expensive so this will be the first time I will use a coil cover.... I'm looking for some black silicone caulking to seal the coil cover

A few people here have been talking about issues/problems with salt water detecting. I will address a few of the problems and solutions.

Your scoop......When putting your travel scoop together do so with some heavy white grease on both portions. Then Put electricians tape around the seam. This will keep water and sand out, also allows the white grease to remain longer. Every month re-do it.

Coil covers... Throw the coil cover in your closet. It has no place being on a detector in the water. To protect the bottom of the coil take JB weld or two part marine epoxy and brush a thin layer all over the bottom side. Mine will last about a year, just touch-up missing areas as necessary.   

Your shaft....PLEASE do not drill lower holes...  Again use a heavy White Grease to put your shaft together. Also use Black Electricians tape to cover all water/sand entry points. If you have issues with the tape unwinding use silicone caulk on the last 1" or so. Same as the scoop about monthly just remove the tape and re-do the connection. point.  

Edit/add......if you are breaking in a new coil to be coated with epoxy, it is better if you do run it in the sand some to dull the surface of the factory coating. The epoxy will adhere better...of course clean well before applying.

 

Dave

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8 minutes ago, Chase Goldman said:

Why is drilling the lower hole not recommended?  Thanks.

 

In my opinion, the most pressure on your shaft  is when you are moving it in water or when you have water rushing by it. The coil is the heaviest part, putting all the pressure on the portion of the shaft above the coil. Personally I do not want to weaken that portion of the shaft. Due to water weight, sand, the ease of taking the shaft apart....keep the water/sand out to begin with. I have drilled a hole in the end cap of my custom straight shaft by my arm. When I am done I just point the coil in the air and if a drop or two comes out that is a lot.

D  

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Thanks.  Good info.  The hole however should equalize the pressure placed on top of the coil reducing the loading it sees. But I agree keeping the water and sand out in the first place is preferred.  And avoiding mucking up your new equipment with cuts and holes is desirable.

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