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Can’t Access Advanced Tone Break Functions


JohnD

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20 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

$250 is nothing to sneeze at in my world so I understand. 

Yeah, but on the flip side for many people $250 is not that much to end up not having regrets over something missed or left out. And for people like me who sold a CTX with full accessory coil complement once I got the 800 - well, lots of people are putting cash IN their pocket because they bought an Equinox, not the other way around. I could literally buy two Equinox 800 detectors and still be over $1000 ahead of where I was with the CTX plus 17" coil, 6" coil, 5" x 10" coil, spare lower rod, and underwater headphones. Even with buying discount brand new that's over $3000 worth of detecting gear. Equinox 800 at $899 = cheap date by comparison, even with a full complement of accessory items.

Tones like hand grips and rod designs are personal preferences with no right or wrong answers.

 

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I started using 5 tones but switched to 50 tones about  month ago.. I am still getting used to the 50 tones but I love the sound of a quarter in 50 tones. There is absolutely no denying it's a quarter when you hear it in 50 tones. 

 

 

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Hmmmmm... I sure learned a lot from these posts, and since I hunt in 50 tones, maybe there is no need to upgrade to the 800.

I like simplicity as well.... factory settings for me (and I have been killing it).

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For fresh coins beach hunting I love the adjustable tone break settings. I only have approx. 2-3h per hunt, so everything is about speed and simplicity. Some small tweaks and those coin ID areas shine through nicely. I've hunted in 50 tones and will further investigate when the season is over.

I think it all depends on your hunting situation and circumstances - the nice thing about the 800 is, that you can adjust it to your needs. If you don't need adjustable tone break settings, the 600 might fit the bill just fine.

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I have an 800 and primarily hunt for coins on land using 5 tones, and I consider the adjustable tone breaks to be one of the greatest features of the machine.  The Equinox is designed for the worldwide market and the default tones are essentially linear, in groups of 10 TIDs.  But each country's coinage is different so it makes total sense to adjust the tone breaks to reflect local conditions.  (Mine are currently set at 11, 13, 17 and 23)

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5 hours ago, StevenB said:

I have an 800 and primarily hunt for coins on land using 5 tones, and I consider the adjustable tone breaks to be one of the greatest features of the machine.  The Equinox is designed for the worldwide market and the default tones are essentially linear, in groups of 10 TIDs.  But each country's coinage is different so it makes total sense to adjust the tone breaks to reflect local conditions.  (Mine are currently set at 11, 13, 17 and 23)

Hey you stole my old coins settings. ?

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On 6/12/2018 at 2:36 PM, Dubious said:

I use 50 tones on everything, for maximum information, so wouldn't have the extra tone adjustments even if I had an 800.  With my 600, the only feature of the 800 I have sometimes wanted is the adjustable backlighting.  The 600's backlighting is too bright for at night. But that's an issue only at night; and it can be fixed with a layer of red film.   

I don't think the 800's backlighting is that great either, still too bright, get out the red film (will be my solution as well).  I like the backlighting on my Racer/Impact/Multi Kruzers the best, has two low modes that are both useful when night hunting.  The low mode(s) on the 800 are far too bright for effective night hunting IMO.

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7 hours ago, Cal_Cobra said:

I don't think the 800's backlighting is that great either, still too bright, get out the red film (will be my solution as well).  I like the backlighting on my Racer/Impact/Multi Kruzers the best, has two low modes that are both useful when night hunting.  The low mode(s) on the 800 are far too bright for effective night hunting IMO.

Red film is probably the best solution to preserve night vision, regardless, but the few twilight-to-night hunts I've done have worked out just fine with mid backlight settings. The lowest setting is problematic for me because it seems to flicker on target hits, weird.  I wonder if there is some variability in brightness settings between units.

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When we go on multi-day marathon detecting adventures, we detect until we drop.  We're usually out in BFE territory on a well researched and rare 3-5 day detector adventure, so we go as long as possible when possible, and that includes hunting into the night sometimes.  In BFE where it's pitch dark, a low backlight is a godsend.  The F75 was the worst, damn thing would blind ya to death and it was stuck on, ya couldn't turn the damn thing off...dumb idea there.

The Nokta and Makro machines almost have it right, you can lower it enough to provide a pleasant, almost non-existent night time display...switch to a RED LED/LCD display system and it'll be perfect.   

The EQ even with a red film will be visually far brighter then what's comfortable, no biggie, the 50 tones are so nice and the PP is so darn accurate, you really don't need to see anything.  Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see the TID#s, but I can tonally tell a low-mid-high tone and oh those warbley, soft, faint high tones, the ones that even pinpoint faintly, love 'em (well not when their deep iron!).

 

 

 

 

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