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  1. All from 1 pocket actually 140 feet underground Mlgdave
    19 points
  2. And I mean little. The 2300 could just barely hear it and I had it the scoop 4 or 5 times before I could hear it in the scoop ? I`d say it`s a 0.05 g max. Dave
    9 points
  3. I keep getting requests for at least one forum with a looser format and in particular a place where people can make "that first post" and introduce themselves. So here it is. Meeting people and getting to know them often means general chit chat and such. Anything is pretty much ok here but more than ever it is important people abide by the forum Prime Directive - treat others with decency and respect. Past history and baggage from other forums is not allowed here so just leave it at the door, or do not enter. This is the forum most likely to see new members and so all "Forum Info" posts are also archived here for those who want to know more about how the forum software works, etc. Other than that - enjoy! Now a little history for those totally new to the forum. I used to hang out on all the other forums. The problem over time is I kept bumping into rules. No mentioning certain brands or dealers for fear of offending sponsoring dealers. That will never happen here as the forum members come first. The one that really irritated me was no links to all sorts of things, like other forums. Here, if the subject matter is relevant, please link to it! No silly "Google it" games etc. And then there are the trolls. People who just like to stir things up. Childish and rude people. Tons of off topic garbage to wade through to find decent information. Etc. I just got tired of it all because over time it all got worse as forums became more commercial. I started these forums to escape all that and with the goal of attracting like minded people who are also tired of all the nonsense. So the main thing here is very, very simple. With the possible exception of this forum, keep discussions on the particular forum subject matter. Be a decent person and better yet, try to help others. On topic, be good - it really is that simple here. New Member Signup - Click Here! Lost Password - Click Here! Forum Tips & Tricks Advanced Search Tag List/Index
    3 points
  4. Planned short morning hunt yesterday in a polluted L.A. park. I decided to lay off the silvers for awhile and seek my first V nickel. Field 2 with factory settings and blocked out mid conductors with 12,13,14 open. My first coin was a '36 buff in nice condition. Second coin was a worn V nickel. Other nickels followed. I was blown away at how fast I got these coins. I did dig a few pulltabs too but not too many since I am getting pretty good at identifying nickels based on how they jump around in the numbers. I think I'll keep running my machine this way for awhile and see how many Buffs/V's I can get over the next several months. Thanks for stopping in and happy hunting.
    3 points
  5. I own and operate a mine in California. I live here full time. :-) Mlgdave
    3 points
  6. Stopped at a friend's house for a night's stay, and his wife saw that I had brought a metal detector along on our way to move to FL. She mentioned that her husband had lost his wedding ring about 6 years ago while spreading mulch in the front yard. He had his son look one time, but he was using a cheap detector I guess. I tried swinging for about 15 minutes in the flower bed, but there was an iron border that was not playing nicely with detecting. I even got down on my hands and knees and just used my pinpointer to no avail. So, why not try the well-manicured lawn! I had the sensitivity lowered to about 12, and there were no signals when in the grass. I guess that's why the consistent ID of 15 stood out so much. After digging a small plug, the ring popped out on the first hole. I wish I was videoing his reaction... priceless. He had just gotten done saying to my wife that he would give me $200 if I found it. He actually cut me a check for $200, but I left it with him when we left. I told him to keep it as a token of thanks for letting me detect along the way to FL on our move. That's 2 gold rings that have ID'd at 15 for me, the usual number for pull tabs.
    3 points
  7. Published on Jun 5, 2018 By Fisher Metal Detectors
    2 points
  8. Yeah I picked it up for 100.00 and it's like new. Must have been in a closet for years with no battery in it. Works good easy to play around with. I let the seller keep the pinpointer. Found a nickle in my front yard already so I'm slowly paying it back!
    2 points
  9. This SC is sort of a dollar down an a day late with this reply. I came across a similar video showing this phenomena. Hope this may help as thanks to observers, users of the Equinox this matter has been forwarded to ML. Just received the Equinox 800 and discovered that The same thing happens using the parameters shown on video. No stable or good IDs using multi! So being in denial ... I decided to sent a note and the Equinox Video link to The Equinox 800 Detect Modes to our ML Business Development Director here in North America to see if I would get any response. This is the same video link that many of you have viewed. Hope this may help?? The following is the reply I received! "Thank you for your inquiry. As the gentleman states in the video, our Engineers are working directly with him to determine what is happening in these situations. Once they determine what the issue is and how it can be corrected, we will make a notice out to users. I personally have found that going in one direction, I get a solid hit, and then at 90 degrees, it still gets an ID, but jumps a bit." Business Development Director – North America
    2 points
  10. https://open.abc.net.au/explore/69517 I spoke to a few friends in Wedderburn about the Buttericks find, but being 70 odd years ago only a few of the older folks knew much about it. Wedderburn was where I found my first small color with a Whites 6000D at a spot called Schicer gully. In later years I found some better colors, and a 60oz patch. At one time I found two 14oz bits in the one gully. Ian Jaques (one time publican and owner of the Logan hotel) and I worked together for a few years, and found some really good gold in the Wedderburn area. My best piece being 23oz. The buttericks gold was associated with an indicator which ran from behind the ANZ bank southward towards the state school across the road. Various attempts were made to locate more gold in the close vicinity, but were mostly unsuccessful. Norm Fitzpatrick, a magistrate from Warnambool somehow got permission to sink a hole in Wilson street outside Buttericks house. The 20ft. shaft from all reports was a 'duffer'. Max Knight tried sinking his hole behind his property. (the old bank building) but it also proved a disappointment. Some suspected the run of gold went across the road under the Anglican church, and it was said that the Vicar would get down on all fours, and put his ear to the stone steps to hear any tunneling below. Neighbors were tunneling in all directions trying to pick up the run, and suspicion was rife as to who was tunneling where. Butterick's indicator runs roughly north south under the town of Wedderburn, and how much gold is still down there will probably remain a mystery.
    2 points
  11. I am in the middle of trying to move all the old handbuilt website pages into the newer forum based portion of the website. It is a huge undertaking and unfortunately old links on other websites will end up broken in some cases. I have got most of the internal links here fixed now but will be tweaking for some time. The biggest part I have been transferring over the last two weeks is my Steve's Mining Journal. I not only moved the pages but replaced the small images on older posts with new higher resolution versions where available. I also added over a dozen new entries catching me up over the last three years. The old home page that few people saw is now reformatted into a magazine style setup, with various articles highlighted. This new setup will allow me to create articles from the best forum posts. Right now it's all just coming together but will hopefully be worth all the effort when done. The new Steve's Mining Journal the new Home Page
    2 points
  12. As a follow up, after a week of use I love this pinpointer. The very slight depth advantage I saw for the TRX was on high conductors in mild to moderate soil. The Tek-Point has the same slight advantage on low conductors in those conditions, but carries an advantage on the full range of conductors in harsh mediums where the TRX has to back down to level 2 or 3 and the Tek can remain wide open. If I could only pick one I would pick the Tek-Point. I don't have to make any such choice thankfully, because they both have applications they excel at. I'm confident I have the two best pinpointers on the market right now. I do not get when people say range or depth is not important in a pinpointer or that it's any kind of disadvantage. I understand it from brands that haven't been able to find it, but depth does not defeat the purpose of a pinpointer for several reasons. 1. If you don't want it you can operate on a lower level, but it's always there if you decide want it. 2. When a pinpointer has a proportional response you know how far you are from the target by the intensity of the response. 3. Nomatter how good you are at pinpointing with the primary machine, and no matter how many years you have doing it, targets still elude us at times. 4. With the kind of range I get from the Tek-Point I can most often double check my preliminary pinpoint from above ground before I dig. I can also often use it by itself as a standalone search method in shallow water. In conclusion, competition for this machine ought to be a small field. I got to try the Minelab ProFind 35. I was really hoping I could use the iron tone and feel discrimination is an important evolution of pinpointers. Plus anyone that knows me knows I'm neurotic about having matching items. I wanted to like the ProFind to go with my Equinox. It's range is about half that of the Tek-point, and unfortunately the Iron tone did not work for me until I was right on top of the unintended object and by then you're already distracted. Additionally, it was not always accurate in predicting iron. So I couldn't see trading 2 inches, stability in harsh mediums, and a killer LED for a feature that kinda sorta works, sometimes.
    2 points
  13. Depth meters on metal detectors are nothing more than a signal strength indicator calibrated to a certain size target. A lot of U.S. detectors are calibrated to a dime size target. As the dime gets deeper, the signal gets weaker, and the meter reflects this weakening signal strength. Detectors designed for gold prospecting only never have depth meters, because they are useless when hunting naturally occurring objects with infinite sizes and shapes. Items smaller or larger than that dime will not read accurately. Small targets with a weak signal will read deep but be shallow. Large items can read shallow but be deep. Even the dime will not read accurately if at an angle or on edge. With rare exceptions changing coil size or type completely invalidates the depth reading accuracy. The White’s V3i lets you enter the coil used to compensate. Other detectors use “smart coils” with an embedded chip that tells the detector which coil is hooked up, so the machine can compensate. Highly mineralized ground and adjacent targets can also skew depth reading meters. Add that all up, and frankly I don’t pay much attention to depth meters, especially since I often detect for items other than coins. In my simplistic world deep items are fainter and have softer edges to the audio response. Shallow targets have louder, sharp edged responses. Equinox maintains full signal strength on coins to several inches instead of getting weaker from the very first inch. This means the machine cannot use the signal getting weaker in that first few inches to gauge depth. The signal does not drop off for several inches. Because of this, in my mind at least I call coins as either being deep or “not deep”. I can usually call deep coins very accurately based purely on the sound, which to my ear has a nice mellow response. Coins under 4” all tend to just bang out as if they are near surface, and it’s only the coil tending to give multiple responses on the shallowest coins that adds another dimension of the “surface coin” at less than an inch. It is the Equinox pinpoint function that really tells me more about target size and depth than the depth meter. Shallow targets are initially really loud/squeaky, deeper target much fainter. Pinpointing in conjunction with lifting the coil can both size and identify large items like sprinkler heads and beer cans. A good simple handheld pinpointer is a great device also. If you can hit the coin type target from the surface with a handheld pinpointer, it’s shallow. If not, it’s deep.
    2 points
  14. I'm on the other coast but here's what I've noticed here. First, beach 1 for dry and wet sand, beach 2 in the water if beach 1 is unstable...just like the instructions say. Just do a noise cancel and adjust sensitivity if it's chatty up higher. My biggest takeaway is that targets have a much shorter tone than say park or field modes. Maybe its from a faster recovery speed or maybe its just the salt but if you hear a blip, try it 90 degrees and if it's still there dig it. And don't cherry pick at the beach, dig everything. I got a gold band that rang up 9, another one that rang up 14, a silver earring that I think was 14 or 15. Lots of junk come in around those numbers too so that's why i dig everything
    2 points
  15. New Member Signup - Click Here! Lost Password - Click Here! Forum Tips & Tricks Advanced Search Tag List/Index Welcome to the DetectorProspector forums! These forums are normally "on topic" only. This forum is the one exception in that it has no real topic except getting to know other people. That being the case you can discuss pretty much anything here but the overriding rules apply more than ever. There is to be no posting of anything that is going to be disruptive (no trolling). While visiting this forum please act as if you are visiting my home. Treat others with decency and respect. Politics is not strictly prohibited but limit it to items of concern such as public meeting notices, comment periods, etc. Other than that, stay away from the heated political stuff. No detector wars - every detector serves a purpose for somebody. For general editorial purposes this forum is treated as if it is a magazine. To reiterate - the Prime Directive on all these forums is decency and respect. If you can't comport yourself like a decent adult, I promise you will not last long on these forums. The main goal of the forum is to share information. If you see something interesting on another forum or anywhere else, please link to it. Mention any brands you like. A note about the Google Ads - I know we all hate ads but they pay for the website. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. All I can do is to promise not to go overboard with them. Special Note To Dealers - Dealers are welcome here, with minimal guidelines. Please read My Policy Regarding Dealers If you have problems logging in or any other issues while on the forum contact the Forum Staff. Information on other general forum use and features can be found here. Steve Herschbach
    1 point
  16. After 3 weeks working non stop i managed a short session and picked up this CARTIER platinum wedding ring ............now the funny bit is on the same spot in Feb 2017 i found the other wedding ring in gold :) Found few bits including a piece of slate engraved : 96............................. RR
    1 point
  17. Hi Simon… I see my PM comments about the Smithsonian Institute Rocks & Mineral guide may have influenced you in selecting that video. I agree with you that most minerals are rather attractive, and chasing after them in the wilds introduces an element of intrigue. However many of the minerals we hobbyists encounter in the field are a considerably lower grade than either museum quality or what we see in mineralogy texts. I think with persistence that you will eventually find some rhodonite. I’ve been reading about rhodonite occurrences over in New South Wales. Apparently there have been some exceptional gem quality, deep red crystals recovered at Broken Hill, measuring up to five centimeters in length and embedded in galena. The photo immediately below is a lithium aluminum silicate called spodumene. Color variations are labeled differently. This colorless, opaque to translucent example is further identified as cymophane. It came to me years ago from a California mineral collector who wanted to trade for some native silver. The second photo is because you seem to like native silver!!!
    1 point
  18. Good job detecting that one
    1 point
  19. Thanks Steve. Your reply was crystal clear, no confusion, confirms my understanding. As usual, you've not only answered the question but provided some useful further insight. Thanks again for running a brilliant forum.
    1 point
  20. Trail riding & Bedrock Busting for Gold Take a trip with Jeff and Mike as they go on a trail ride up in the Sierra's to look for some Gold trapped in Bedrock. My first try at doing a prospecting video for my YouTube Channel it was a lot of work and a lot of fun to do !!! Hope you enjoy it
    1 point
  21. Decided to mod the 800 rod by switching out the straight middle rod to the White's S rod. I know a lot of folks like a straight rod but by switching it out, it eliminates the detector's handgrip from wanting to twist at the end of each swing. In a side by side comparison, both myself and a buddy with an 800 both like the feel of the modified version. The mod requires the middle rod from a White's DFX, or MXT. The rod needs to be drilled on the upper top end for the spring plunger and again adjustment holes need to be drilled on the bottom for length adjustment. The Lower rod from a Makro Racer or Kruzer is used as the lower rod from the Nox is larger in diameter. The top of the S rod also needs to be shimmed about .040" in diameter to fit snug into the Nox upper rod. Now it swings about as close to an F75 as you can get.
    1 point
  22. I really like your new magazine type format Steve, and had not been very aware of your journal. What great resources of information. I think the magazine format will be more inviting to introduce new detector/prospectors. Thank you for all your efforts, Mike
    1 point
  23. I understand the Xterra 705 rod will fit without mods. $41.40. The White's rod is available for $19.95. Both are available thru Kellyco.
    1 point
  24. Ok everyone this contest is over and we have a winner.. SittingElf this is your day because you’re the winner. Please PM me your address and I’ll get it off Monday headed your way. Thank to the ones that played. Chuck
    1 point
  25. I agree. It really does not need any more repetition. I restricted “availability threads” for a reason. The suggestion may have made a difference months ago, but with 800s now becoming available it’s all rather moot. From Forum Rules - This is a fan club. It is a place for people who see the Equinox in a positive fashion. If you hold a generally negative view of the detector or Minelab, this is not the place for you.
    1 point
  26. try historic aerials and google earth. some old parks and baseball fields just show up as green spaces. On both platforms you can go back to prior year images.
    1 point
  27. Here is what I think about the 800. People who are somewhere between beginners and intermediate users in terms of skills find the 800 perplexing. People who are pros especially with lengthy experience with Minelab detectors understand the 800 and appreciate what a great detector for the price and many features it offers. It really does replace multiple detectors. But only if you know how to use it properly and understand how to effectively set it up for different ground matrix conditions. A typical user, lets say an AT Pro or AT Max user (there are tons of them) tends to pretty much use their metal detectors only in one environment and in Pro metal mode or some other mode. So they may have 500 hours on the AT Pro but it is all the same experience. They guys who really know what they are doing tend to have the $2,000 + type detectors and know how to use every feature effectively. So when a typical beginner or intermediate AT Pro user gets the Nox 800 they simply don't know how to use it and become bewildered and complain on the forums or on youtube about this and that. They hear a lot of hype about the Nox series on the forums and youtube and when they get it they find it won't do miracles for them because they don't know how to use it. A beginner or intermediate detectorist will not learn this remarkable machine in a dozen hours. I include myself in that category. If you want additional detail information on the 800 get Clive James Clynick's book "The Minelab EQuinox series - from beginner to advance book. It is only 111 pages but packed with very specific information on the Equinox 800. There is very little fluff in this book. He does remind you of some maybe forgotten like target ID techniques and specific examples of setting up your 800 for different ground matrix situations. He also give you hint how to start easy and learn the sophisticated metal detector and not jumping into the complex settings abilities. If you are a beginner and only hunt in the standard modes eg park1,2 field1,2 etc then you are only using half of the capabilities of the 800. Take the time to really learn to understand and use this remarkable machine. And it does take study and field time, there are no shortcuts.
    1 point
  28. I found with the PIs a 14inch coil is around a good size for general go to in my area, I`ll be grabbing an approx 14inch if they are lighter in no time once available. I have some deep ground the 19" proved itself on, would love to run a lightweight 24inch over those areas, then there is those tight places a smaller elliptical would be the go. I don`t care who makes it as long as it produces.
    1 point
  29. After a second thought............ If ya need a behind the seat quick opportunity/tot lot/whatever machine and you want a Tesoro, just buy a new compadre. Unless you are gonna spring for a model with manual GB the compadre would be smart money. $160ish with a warranty.
    1 point
  30. Fragments of meteorites fell in southwest China’s Yunnan Province on June 1 and two pieces fell through villagers’ house roofs while one fell on the dry ground and another one was found in a cornfield. https://www.shine.cn/viral/1806045767/
    1 point
  31. Hey Mitchel, If youve seen Li Bofang facebook he has a lot of pics on it...... tons of meteorite and gold pictures and stories on facebook everyone shares... Dave.
    1 point
  32. No, the 600 does not have the Gold Mode, which uses a different processing method entirely. It’s more than just having 20 khz and 40 kHz available. Every manufacturer makes machines that have the same circuit board, but in which the lower price versions are “feature limited”. A perfect example is the White’s V3i and VX3. They are the same detector, same board. They simply disabled certain features on the VX3. This is just standard operating procedure in metal detector land and always has been. The second detector I ever owned was a White’s blue box Goldmaster about 1974. I was “upgrading” from the Coinmaster IV. I opened them up - exact same circuit board, and in fact basically the same detector. Ken White figured a bigger box with bigger meter was “better”. How many people know that in many cases a 10HP outboard motor and a 15HP outboard motor are the same motor mechanically? A 10HP model will be tuned for what is in effect a lower gear, with more torque on the low end. Great kicker motors. The same motor will be tuned up to develop more rpm and a higher top end running speed, but now the low end is lacking. Better for small skiffs, etc. where getting the speed is more important. Yet when you go to get parts - same parts book. You pay more for the 15HP not because the production cost is more. It’s not. You are simply paying more for a “feature”, in this case the horsepower the unit develops when run full out. I could do this for hours but should not have to. Examples abound wherever you want to look. Welcome to sales and marketing. Minelab is guilty, but so is everyone else. I have been arguing that a 600 will serve most people as well as an 800 for quite some time. Yet most people want an 800 anyway. Given that it is probable that this is exactly what marketing wanted people to do, it’s hard to say they did not get it right. If you think not, it’s a bit moot now, as that ship has sailed. The differences between the two are what they are, the only thing left now is to choose. Personally, except for nugget detecting I can do just as well with the 600 as 800. I as a rule don’t use the extra adjustments. The ability to move and adjust tones in some audio modes is attractive, but reality for me is I use 50 tones usually anyway. I don’t mess with the defaults very much at all, often just a bump in the gain, and I am off detecting. So while I am the sort that would want an 800, when I examine the reality of what I am doing with the 800 the fact is I am not using the extra features. I don’t even use the WM 08. If I was being totally pragmatic a 600 with an aftermarket low latency Bluetooth headphone is all I really need except for nugget detecting, and I can actually do very well with the 600 there also. Just not as well as I could with an 800 and Gold Mode. Despite the shortages it should be obvious Minelab is cranking out more 800s than 600s by far. It’s what people want and is a true bargain - continuing wait times are a reflection of that. Lots of people were waiting for various reasons, and no matter how many 800s show up demand still exceeds supply as these people come in from the sidelines. It’s catching up, as dealers will have an 800 on the shelf for a few days, but by and large as soon as excess arrives, it gets snapped up. That could continue for another month or two.
    1 point
  33. Hi steve and other members. I just joined this forum and would like to introduce myself. My name is Dale I live and prospect in Australia. I have been prospecting for 16 years and have been a full time prospector for the last 6 years. I also love treasure hunting and go to europe every second year to look for ancient coins and treasure, and also enjoy searching for treasure in Australia although there are no pre euopean settlement metallic artifacts. I look forward to sharing my experience's with the members of this forum. Best regards Gold Hound Dale
    1 point
  34. Thanks for your time and effort with the video Mark. When I started this thread I didn't mean to rain on anyone's parade but it's just that I have seen a few videos on this subject and my inquisitive nature wanted to investigate further. I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to retrieve good stuff whether "coin on edge" or not or for whatever other reason. With proper MD techniques and the proper settings, it can only get better for me. After all, with approx 60-70 hours on mine, I've scratched off 2 bucket listers, over a dozen silver coins, several dozen wheats, rings, tokens and a ton of clad. Irrespective of some of its early reported faults, ie; arm cuffs, wobbly shafts, etc. I have come to like this machine due to its simplicity and power. Far easier to maneuver around its settings with only the movement of my thumb. And, much lighter and easier handling than my Safari however I have not dug anything deeper than I have with the Safari and that's probably because my coil has not passed over anything deep yet. My confidence level with the Nox is such that if and when the 800 is plentiful and there is no wait for it, I'm buying it.
    1 point
  35. In the nugget detecting I have done so far with the Equinox it offers quite a toolbox. Multi-IQ packs a lot of punch. The good thing there is it is crazy powerful on tiny low conductors. The bad news is it will also “light up” hot rocks very well. For this kind of work I have been favoring Gold Mode and Field 2. Gold Mode in particular will get those hot rocks while in Multi-IQ. Lower gain helps a lot because hot rocks typically lose signal strength faster than metals. I prefer to hunt “wide open” with no target id numbers blocked if I can get away with it. This gives me stronger hits across the board, and most hot rocks exhibit as -9, -8, or -7. However, this can require too much work when the hot rocks are more plentiful. I will then block those three target id numbers. Even then certain hot rocks will signal, and the ones that throw off oddball positive id numbers can get problematic. For Gold Mode the solution for me has been to go to 40 kHz or 20 kHz. Both are very strong, easily matching dedicated nugget detectors for power. The good news is many hot rocks that bang hard in Multi-IQ get very weak in single frequencies, with minimal sensitivity lost on tiny low conductors. It really cleans things up in some places going to single frequencies. Finally, since Gold Mode lacks target tones, going to Field 2 and using the solutions above plus the additional possibility of tones is another alternative. Instead of using Gold Mode and blocking the lowest target id numbers they can be left open to signal as ferrous or mixed ferrous targets. And you now have 5, 10, and 15 kHz options that Gold Mode lacks. Hot rocks act as “masking targets” that hide good items under or next to them. Be sure and use faster recovery speeds in thick hot rocks to better see between them. Still learning....
    1 point
  36. Are you after coins, jewelry, relics, or all of the above? Also, is the ground mineralization mild or hot? Are the targets shallow or at depth? That info will help on initial mode selection and then we can work on settings. If you are after "all" types of targets I would go with either park 2 or field 2 and use the default settings. Noise Cancel, auto GB on a target free area and swing away. If the iron falsing is overwhelming, then you can dial in a couple clicks of iron bias (setting of 2 or 3) But in thick iron you also run the risk of not unmasking a non-ferrous target with Iron Bias filtering set too high. The key in thick iron is running recovery speed at or a click higher than the default setting (6 to 8, with 7 perhaps being the sweet spot). If 50 tones is overwhelming, feel free to back off to 5 tones. And unless there is also a lot of modern non-ferrous trash, do not notch anything. Make liberal use of the All Metal (Horseshoe) button to interrogate high tones. If you hear a lot of iron low tones, you either have multiple ferrous and non-ferrous targets under the coil, or possibly ferrous falsing. You will have to dig these to see what's what then when you have it down, can start playing the odds. The key is getting to the point where you can minimize use of the filters (disc, notch, iron bias) and let your ears and brain do the discriminating based in tonal nuances. But the above should get you started. If you are focused primarily on higher conductive coinage, go with Park 1 or Field 1 (lower Frequency weighting which hits harder on high conductive targets like silver). In thick iron, you may have to up recovery speed from the default in Park 1 and perhaps lower iron bias to avoid undesirable target masking. HTH
    1 point
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