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GPZ With Russian 17 Inch X Coil : First Report

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JP, When (if) I come to Australia, I think I want to take a lesson with you.  There is no way I could relay that much information back from using my detector.  I find gold, but I want to understand my machine like how you understand yours and the way you describe it.  In my eyes you are on another level.  There are only one or two others that I know that are there too.

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All good thanks JP, no offence taken at all.

Cheers, Rick

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3 hours ago, Andyy said:

So is there a link or website for showing what is required to modify the GPZ to accept the new coils?  I have a vision on what I think is required, but not entirely sure.  That small 10" coil is really getting me interested. 

G'day Andyy

No there is no web site showing that, I supply the instructions on making a patch lead to a customer when they purchase a coil.

cheers dave

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4 hours ago, Andyy said:

So is there a link or website for showing what is required to modify the GPZ to accept the new coils?  I have a vision on what I think is required, but not entirely sure.  That small 10" coil is really getting me interested. 

You will get a schematic break down with photos, instructions & precise measurements that show what wires go where & to put a connection back on the coil lead that you cut off the chip connection it is just mirror image. That's the easy part. It then comes down to your soldering skills & precise neatness. Not all soldering irons are equal & there are some pretty fine wires to deal with. Might sound intimidating & scary but it isn't really. If not confident, I was lucky I had Simon as that is his sort of thing, but you could take it to an electronics repair place & all should be good. If I didnt have Simon I would have done it myself anyway. My very first detector ever had I made from a Dick Smith kitset. That require soldering up everything. Even the circuit board & making a DD coil. All that came in the kit was the printed circuit board & all the diodes & components, that were seperate & had to be soldered on to the board, & the wire to make the coil. Had to wind the coil & totally make the base & coil cover & attachments & shaft etc.  I was surprised it actually worked. Found me lots of sinkers down at the beach & a few coins. But it was never going to be a very good detector. It was just a very basic VLF.   

The 10" coil is a ripper. Love, love loving it. It does love shotgun pellets🤬. For the sensitivity it has on tiny gold at depth I just knew that was going to be the case.:rolleyes:

Good luck out there

JW

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4 hours ago, Jonathan Porter said:

Semi Auto locks the Ferrite balance therefore there is no learning in Semi Auto Mode, Auto Mode learns but is a lot different to the original Auto GB mode in the first release software.  In essence in your case you are actually only ever using whatever you locked in originally relative to the temperature so there will be a lot of times where the Ferrite balance is wrong, an easy way to confirm this is to wave the coil over the Ferrite, if there is a BIG signal then your Ferrite balance is way out. IF there is a big signal that means the detector is going to make a noise on any Ferrite-like material in the ground which then means you are going to have unnecessary noise which will then compete with target signals especially deep edge of detection target signals.

You have mentioned ground noise, with Volume as high as you have gone the ground noise response will be extremely variable because you have taken a smooth information packed surface (your Audio Smoothing OFF threshold) and magnified it immensely, this means all the little variations are now very loud which then drown out any edge of detection targets. I note you have lowered your threshold from 27, this is a sure sign of what I am describing. The same could be said for lifting the sensitivity especially in combination with a high Volume setting, however increasing sensitivity can improve signal responses a lot, especially the smaller deep targets.

Deep big target signals are very similar to ground noise, they are slow responses that require careful coil control to be heard effectively. Increasing the Volume too much on any Minelab since the GPX series (Target Volume) will also lift all the surface signal responses potentially drowning out the deeper target signals. This is especially true for Low/High targets which we all crave so much. Using a lower Threshold Pitch really improves the Low/High signals especially below 40. Not having a correct Ferrite balance adds extra uneeded noise to your signal train, if you can remove it why wouldn’t you do so? Any noise that does not need to be there either through poor coil control or bad ground balance or bad Ferrite balance can cost you performance, this is my constant mantra when I am training in GPZ users. I am unsure how you’re actually listening to the detector so some of this information will vary especially with headphones.

Hope this helps and I hope I have not offended.

JP

 

JP,

I have watched all of your Minelab GPX videos and thoroughly enjoyed them. But, there was not much info on the ground noise discussion we're talking about and there is nothing available on this subject, anywhere on Youtube on the GPZ to aid us in the USA. I wish you could put something together to "train" your friends from across the pond.

My question, related to ground noise issues comes from last weeks GPZ outing at Rye Patch, Nevada where there was significant rains and salty soil. Moisture was at least 2" deep from the surface. I received some "guidance" from so-called experts and ran the following settings:

High Yield/Normal, Sens 18, Vol 9, Threshold 12, Threshold Pitch 60, Vol Limit 12, Auto GB, Smoothing OFF. Using headphones.

I had the Knowledge Base Article with me in the field, but didn't use it. The result was I heard ground noise frequently and slowed down to a crawl. I always GB with the ferrite and only found shallow bits of iron shavings from a dozer and other junk.

What would you recommend?  

Clueless in Colorado,

Bill

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16 hours ago, Jonathan Porter said:

Hi Rick thanks for your replies, I hope me replying to you is not taken the wrong way. I am just trying to make sure others understand the importance of the Ferrite and how the detector actually operates to avoid misconceptions etc.

The information following is my opinion only and is based around what you have ‘actually written’ asssuming I have understood it correctly.

Semi Auto locks the Ferrite balance therefore ...... etc.

JP

 

Very good info JP.👍 Thank you.

Best of luck out there

JW 🤠

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12 hours ago, davsgold said:

Hey Paul

If we were a bit closer I could lend condor my patch lead for awhile to use till he gets his sorted out.  360km away is a bit to far, we might eventually get up to where you guys are at, but by then I hope it's all worked out.

cheers dave

 

no worries Dave,

(Condor) got about 6 g ??? yesterday with his stock set up and that super coil he brought over here from Arizona. 

He’ll post up when we give him enough time to get on the Internet...,Lolol

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16 hours ago, kiwijw said:

You will get a schematic break down with photos, instructions & precise measurements that show what wires go where & to put a connection back on the coil lead that you cut off the chip connection it is just mirror image. That's the easy part. It then comes down to your soldering skills & precise neatness. Not all soldering irons are equal & there are some pretty fine wires to deal with. Might sound intimidating & scary but it isn't really. If not confident, I was lucky I had Simon as that is his sort of thing, but you could take it to an electronics repair place & all should be good. If I didnt have Simon I would have done it myself anyway. 

The 10" coil is a ripper. Love, love loving it. It does love shotgun pellets🤬. For the sensitivity it has on tiny gold at depth I just knew that was going to be the case.:rolleyes:

Good luck out there

JW

Thank you for the added info, JW.  If it is just cutting out the chip and re-soldering the connector back on and adding shrinkwrap, I can do that easily enough.

I can't imagine what a smaller 10" coil will get.  (or 10x9)  I have a scale that goes down to .01g, and I already get gold that the scale cannot measure.  Tough to get out of the scoop, but I'm now better at the small gold recovery method.  I don't lose these pieces like I used to. 

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44 minutes ago, Andyy said:

Thank you for the added info, JW.  If it is just cutting out the chip and re-soldering the connector back on and adding shrinkwrap, I can do that easily enough.

I can't imagine what a smaller 10" coil will get.  (or 10x9)  I have a scale that goes down to .01g, and I already get gold that the scale cannot measure.  Tough to get out of the scoop, but I'm now better at the small gold recovery method.  I don't lose these pieces like I used to. 

Hi Andyy. Here are a few pics for you.I won't show the schematic drawing as I was trusted not to, but if you get an X coil you will get all that. I will just let the pics tell the story. We cut the chip end off the 19" coil.

20190127_101048

 

20190127_101039

The finished adapter plug

20190127_124424

The left end connects to what ever coil you "plug" into & the right end is the connection with the chip that goes to the detector control box, as per standard ML coil. Once you have the adapter plug you can use what ever coil you wish. Just a matter of soldering a female connector plug back on to what ever coil lead you cut the chip off & that coil is good to go again. So you aren't sacrificing a coil. 

20190127_101115

There is a plastic "pipe" shield that slides over the connector once the coil is screwed into the adapter plug.

20190127_101217

Cheers

Good luck out there

JW 🤠

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