X - Coil Chip Mod Question

[jasong]

7 hours ago, SteelPhase said:

I use the hot glue gun because it dries solid and fills the inner part  of the socket between the wires so they can not move at all. It gives a similar effect as a molded plug. I think the liquid tape will still allow for movement of the wires within the socket.

This is my concern too. I think the Liquid Tape is a great idea, but I'm not sure if it'd immobilize the wiring enough. If I had 2 cable/chip ends I'd try one in Liquid Tape though as it might not end up mattering, and in theory as Phrunt said it should be easier and potentially better when it comes to shorts.

However, with my 4500, tiny movements in the wire, even those up towards the control box, would cause the detector to have fits and make me think the coil was bad. I think the idea with the patch cord should be getting as close as physically possible to making it so that, in effect, the detector doesn't see the cord there at all, which means 100% immobilization.

 

[Norvic]

6 hours ago, Jin said:

Yes, agree it would be a lot easier. But unfortunately i just cant help doing most things for my self. The tougher the task the more i want to try and succeed. Its a bloody curse sometimes.

It all started when i was 23 and couldn't afford a truck mounted carpet machine which where around $25k at the time. I didnt know how to weld or much about vacuum pumps or engines but i had a crack anyway and built one. In fact i built 3 machines and they all worked and made me money. The biggest thing i learnt from that experience was never say never. You can achieve anything if your prepared to learn a little and have ago. anyway im not going to let a little patch lead get the better of me.

Will probably fry the chip now, lol

Tis no curse, is an asset, Jin, the fruit of life. Old saying " The only ones who fail are those who try but they are also the only ones who succeed". I`m with Phrunt, I doubt you can fry the chip soldering wires onto terminals, the chip is a min of 50+mm away and no  heat conductive path on the wires concerned. Perhaps if your over zealous with the application of heat to the heat shrink down that end, more likely as Chet stated static discharge is a chance danger. 

Hot glue guns are handy as and cheap as, once you`ve used one a bit they become one of those tools that are kept handy near the work bench, especially the soldering bench.  

[1515Art]

I’ve used the liquid tape to repair the wires on my Bose ear buds and the material lasts about a year under use before pealing from the ear bud wire leads. It also remains rubbery after it sets. Hot glue sticks are available in a variety of temperature and set times so you have a little control and it’s easy to use with a couple minutes practice. 

Ive also used heat guns and soldering irons to remelt move and shape hot glue as well as trim it away with a blade so you have wiggle room if you don’t apply it exactly like you wanted.

[Andyy]

I actually tried liquid tape brushed around the leads first.  It was sort of a mess.  So I cleaned it up and used hot glue for the rest.  I had no problems getting the hot glue between the wires.  In hind sight I would just use the glue.  But that is just my experience.

Overall, the hardest thing about the mod was getting the enamel off the magnet wire.  My choice method was 400 grit sand paper.  I just lightly dragged it across.  Acetone did nothing to remove it.  Steel wool tore it up.  Tinning process worked fine once i used the sand paper.

 

[Norvic]

Yeah, gotta agree I went with sand paper too and used resin flux as well as resin cored solder, running a blob of solder on the solder iron tip back and forth over the wire, in conjunction with the extra flux tinned them fairly easy. The blob of solder got quiet dirty so the enamel must be the type that is meant to be removed in such a manner. I`d put a wee too much hot glue on the first lead and couldn`t get the conx. body to fit, quick fix with the heat gun with a small nozzle fixed that and ensured the hot glue filled the spaces as well. 

[Jin]

So after all that its probably best to follow the instructions sent out by Dave which says use the glue 

One day ill learn to read the instructions first. But at least this thread brought up some good points about getting the enamel off the wire 

[Jin]

Seems ive hit my ? quota for the day Simon so no like for your post until tomorrow by the looks of things. I might have to delete cookies or something to get around this in future. 

Im actually surprised that glue or tape is needed. Never did that with my 5 pin plug on the patch lead for the 4500. Its not like where using the patch lead to lift up a 20kg bag of cement. The wires are soldered, the plug cover goes on - end of story. 

I took my 4500 patch lead on/off all the time. Tugged at it, knocked it and bent it when detecting often. Still stayed together fine. Its not like there should be lots of force on the 7000 patch lead its inside the shaft connected to a coily lead.

[Andyy]

5 hours ago, phrunt said:

Andyy, it sounds like you just glued the wires down and didn't fill the plug with the hot glue to make it solid and stop movement?  Filling the plug is the hard bit but the best way to hot glue it.

I started painting with the liquid adhesive and the stuff is just a mess.  But I am sure it could work if you took the time for it.  I ended up leaving the liquid adhesive covering the exposed copper and then filled everything in with the hot glue and shaping it as needed. But then I am so awesome at soldering that I had all kinds of room for the connector (sarcasm).  If the glue is not filling in for you, you may need to use a different glue stick or hotter gun.  Back in my early days when I was too cheap to buy the garmin gps cables, I would make a cable by plugging the wire with just the pins into the garmin port and just hot gluing a mold.  This worked great and always protected the connection.  I believe the hot glue makes a stiffer (higher durometer) cover. 

But yeah, do whatever floats your boat :)

[SteelPhase]

3 hours ago, phrunt said:

 

Then if you look inside the GPZ itself where the wires go into the control box they're loose flexible wires.

 

You can see them flapping in the wind ?

 

There is a big difference between inside the case and a flexible adapter cable. Inside the case the wires have no movement from the other end. There is no pulling or flexing. This isn't the case with the adapter cables. There can be stresses and movement on the adapter cable every time the coil is changed. Any added material to stop the stresses on the joints can only prolong the life of the connection.

[flakmagnet]

5 hours ago, phrunt said:

You'll also note the two ferrite chokes inside the control box

Wow, that's really interesting. They are using ferrite chokes inside the box.