Fake Equinox 800, Gold Monster 1000's And Sdc2300's Floating Around
By
phrunt, in Minelab Metal Detectors
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By GB_Amateur
As usual, some of us got off topic a few days ago on this thread:
We got into a discussion about insect repellants, what works in some areas and for some insects, etc. I have a question and decided to start a new thread, on this specific topic, which will also probably get hijacked.
My specific question to 2Valen is: what concentration of Permethrin are you using? I have some spray stuff but it's only 0.5% Permethrin. I doubt that's what you are dilluting. Also, you say "add the correct amount...". Could you be more specific.
I get eaten alive by chiggers and although spray Deet works OK, they still seem to find a way around that to a limited extent.
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By spandexlurch
Hi everyone, first post. I'm currently new to metal detecting and I am using a loaned Whites 6000b coinmaster. I haven't dug anything but junk so far but I'm considering buying my first detector. My coworker has a Minelab CTX 3030 and I don't imagine I'll buy something that expensive as a beginner. I was looking at the Minelab Vanquish 540 or the Garrett Ace 400. I know very little about the different detectors but not looking to spend over $500 on my first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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By Lobo Exp
I just recently got one of these Russian boards, which IMO looks like a good piece to work with. I read over the supplied build instructions which are fairly clear, but in a way are not totally, at the same time. I have worked with circuits quite a lot over several years, I went back to a site that discusses working with timer IC's of which in this build uses the 7555, a CMOS version of the vaunted 555 that uses 1/10th the power. This is where the MD transmitter freq. is produced. There are several ways to construct the oscillator and in the case of this design, I find one very small issue. Since as I mentioned, I just got this board and still working at putting it together, obviously I haven't tested it. Here is what I am here to discuss with anyone looking at this version, thinking about building one, or has one working. The 555 system has been know to experience unstable responses if there is no Capacitor connected from pin 5 to ground ! There is no Cap to pin 5 included in this circuit design and it uses a few other features that differ from the basic osc. circuits A .01ufd cap which on this board can be installed on the back side of the board from pin 5 to the nearest ground buss and should be some improvement to the function and stability of the circuit, it is 'optional' and it will work without it. It is a very small mod but in my experience sometimes that is all it take to work or not. I also suggest to use .100 inch header pins for connecting any of the peripheral parts. Doing this makes it easier to R&R the board for working on it, you will need to be extra diligent about connecting everything back in the proper place but if you have gone this far with this project, that is a no brainer. There are a couple of places the .100 header pins will not fit perfectly but you can get around that with the use of a single break away pin and just a tiny bit of force to re align so your connection will fit as you continue assembly. 3 pins on the right of the rough GB Pot on board are one place, another is the 2 holes just to the right and above the 4 large elect. caps around the Vreg, LM7808 or LM7809, also using a 7809 might give you a slight bit of bump in performance. Since the circuit uses a +12v supply battery, there is still a bit of margin left so that the dropout V is going to remain above the output V of the regulator until batteries are getting too low. Using a battery carrier that holds 8 AA cells, alk or even NiM rechargeables will or should work and you should still be able to get this inside the housing. The use of NiM may exhibit an issue with the 7809 so make the choice based on what battery V you plan on using. One could also use an extra bat pack in series to push the V higher for the input, as the 78xx can handle up to 30v input, this will give you a lot more operation time before the dropout V becomes an issue. I would also think installing some reverse polarity protection here, 'NEVER a bad addition to any circuit and simple, a couple of small diodes and a fuse added to the project, around a 200 milliamp mini fuse is a good rating, put some extras inside the case. The current draw of this unit is very low so you can run your batteries way down this way and still keep going, having a small solar setup would be a good thing to have with you to boost batteries also, you could make it to fit over your hat!!! I am in the U.S. and have considered doing assembly of projects in the future,,, if my board works out. The one good thing I like about this system is that it should work with several different coils out there and one can even construct their own coil if using careful attention. Coils are really not that hard to make if you have and follow the instructions. Making the casing is probably the worst part of it, using resins and hardeners. Shielding is a bit critical here. I will mention that it is almost essential that you have an oscilliscope to build one of these for adjusting the timer section freq. the 5k pot on the left side of the 7555 and also setting amplitude on the upper right of 7555, the one just left of the 14 pin IC spot.. If you don't have a scope, there are apps online that make your PC work as one and you will have to learn how to use it, or get someone that knows to help with it. Also a transistor tester is helpful and when working with these parts, you MUST know the pins and install them RIGHT if you intend to have it work but you already know this if you are thinking about assembling one.
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By TreasureHunter5
I would like to start detecting neighbors property, but I am not sure how to go about it. Does anyone have advice on asking my neighbors(who I don’t know very well) or asking people in different neighborhoods? How do I tell them there yard will not be damaged. I dig my holes in a circle in my grass and pull up the plug. I then check to see if the signal in in the hole or in the plug. Wherever it is I use a t shirt to put the dirt on and find the target. I them spill the dirt in the hole and place the plug back in the way it came out. It does look a bit brown after I do it, but as time goes by you can’t even tell. I did it in my yard lasted year, and this year you can’t even tell. Is this a good way of digging, or is there a better way? Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks!!
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By harivney
Thinking ahead. Will be moving closer to Clearwater and St Pete Beach Florida later this year. What metal detector would you choose for wet sand and shallow wading - an Equinox or Impulse AQ (assuming its available)?. Based on what I have read, it seems Impulse is supposed to find gold rings that Equinox has missed.
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