By Rivers rat
Hello to all ,
So i went back to the beach after another storm nothing really changed as i think it is protected from the ferocious sea.
I managed few improvements in my detecting with the nox,first the finds pouch is now located where my heart is (yes i got one:)) which doesn't got down anymore every 2 minutes.And i found out that the bluetooth connection isn't that powerful that why it is cutting while i am digging or detecting in a certain way so i hang up the module WM08 on the pouch of my smock jacket work a treat.
i started on the wet sand and after not much luck(tide was short anyway) i moved where the gravel/shingles break with the sand and mud,and my session turned into mudlarking something i am really familiar with, so my skills prevail not easy to retrieve the targets from a thick heavy black mud but here are the finds: a silver ring with mother pearl,a large medal few fishing weight a 50 cal bullet(maybe from a dogfight this time :) i may return now with the PI or try again those muddy patches.
The next day i did a session of beach crawl with a mate digging into shingles is a night mare pinpoint isn't great and retrieving the target is worse i found few coins nonetheless and left with the question of what could be better to dig there than a spade..................hopefully this week i will do some Thames sessions.
Last pictures is my now my full home made carbone set up cost me not much maybe £25 max and 25 minutes job.The main stem is longer but i am tall the lower one is slighter shorter and thiner the arm cup is the old style XP one.I will weight it once i got find a scale :).The big round stuff is a lead weight i guess must be at least 800gr
Was reading with interest forums on metal detecting after beach renourishment which happens often here on Tybee Island. The locals were saying it's not worth it but I went out anyways. Bought a Garrett Pinpointer and wanted to try it out. Found out I need to read instructions when I couldnt even get it to detect a quarter, lol. Was trying to figure out exactly where in the dirt should I start. Where they first place it further up on shore, or close to the ocean where they sand has been washing out to sea? It's the first time in a long time that I got to go metal detecting and that's why I went. Found a quarter, pencil, ice bucket and toy truck. On another question was looking in the White's catalog at the VERY expensive metal detectors, like the $1500 ones. Says they are for finding large amounts of treasure? Why wouldnt a regular metal detector detect that?
Coins, bits, fishing sinkers and half a ring from beach last week in NZ. We have new 10, 20 and 50 cent cupro nickle coins which just degrade and rust in the sea salt or even the soil. The bad ones I just put between a cloth and a few whacks with a hammer to get the crud off, either rotary tumble with malt vinegar and salt or if Im feeling vicious.....into a container of CLR (calcium, lime and rust remover), then a container of water, finaly container of baking soda and water. Banks here will only accept coins that are recognizable.....no matter the colour, as in rotary tumbling I plonk the 10c cupro copper with "silver" 20 and 50's and they all come out a pretty pink! Only advantage of cupro nickle is they are magnetic.......using a 120kg pull neodymium is interesting fun !!!!!! However, what the photo does say is they were deep and bèen in the sand a long time.....and that is from a beach which is constantly detected by others.
The way I “classify” beach sand determines which search mode I use on my Equinox. It works well for me on our central Florida beaches.
Since all beaches differ in terms of salinity/mineralization, I’d be interested in hearing from other beach hunters if they too make this “4 layer classification” of beach sand conditions.
Dry Sand: area where the surf doesn’t or hasn’t covered. The sand is extremely dry and where most beach goers spread their towels and chairs. Area to the lady’s far left in the photo.
Damp Sand: Area where the surf once covered but has recently receded to the point where it no longer does leaving the sand still somewhat damp. Smooth area to the lady’s immediate left.
Wet Sand: Area where the surf still covers as the waves come on shore but recedes with wave action leaving the sand distinctly wet. Smooth dark area to the lady’s direct front and immediate right.
Surf: Self explanatory...in the water.
In the Dry and Damp areas, Beach 1, All Metal with sensitivity, recovery speed, and F2 settings adjusted for conditions works best. If I try to use Beach 1 and All Metal in the Wet sand and Surf, the amount of falsing naturally increases significantly.
In the Wet sand and Surf, Beach 2, discrimination activated and sensitivity being situationally dependent works best...the EQX settles down considerably.
This simply confirms Minelab’s recommendation but I’ve distinguished between damp and wet sand where they use dry, wet and surf classifications.
Question: Anyone else see a performance difference in Damp and Wet sand modes/settings?
On the beaches here on Cape Cod my old trusty DFX was unable to auto ground balance but instead would initiate default factory settings. Scrolling through the many settings I always selected "ground tracking on" Hopefully, soon I'll have a Nox 800. as the DFX needs a new coil and/or some box work. Too old. Sorry DFX. Would using "tracking on" on the Nox provide better performance?
Just arrived in the mail, Nuggeteer 18 x 6 mono, mounts nicely on the Tdi pro using a Minelab lower rod. It is weighty at 1 kg but easily balances on the Tdi Pro, just don't have any metal in your shoes..
When the weather clears I'll go down to the beach and give it a good run. Useless air tests, test garden results and beach run results in the very near future.. karelian