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X Coil Cable Modification

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Hi Dave

Yes; if the GPZ 7000 does not sense an electrical load from an unattached coil it will provide and alert and shut down. The detector is just informing you that it needs a coil to work properly.

It doesn’t matter whether the disconnect is above or below the adapter cable. With the coil disconnected there is no load the on the transmit transistors so there is no danger of overheating them.

Have a good day,



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I did the Minelab cable cutting and soldering differently than specified by the manufacturer. Instead of cutting the cable near the Minelab connector I cut it below the Minelab curled cord and in

I must confess, I'm a tinkerer.  So when I got my GPZ I had to decide what cable type I prefer, the standard X-coil adapter where you cut the cord right up near the control box to make your adapter, o

I would not recommend using this method, that is an awful lot of metal and potential stray RF to have so near to the coil. Even the slightest movement could make its way to the RX. Just my 2C and

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Chet's method of making a cable is easier than the other method so for people previously worried about making an adapter it could well be the best choice, even if you're like Mitchel wisely getting a professional to make your adapter it is still easier for them to make it that way.  There is a lot more room to work with being away from the curls of the curly cable.  The other obvious benefit is the ease of changing coils. 

It's good to see there is two options for adapters now and X-coils have accommodated it by letting you pick which adapter you have or intend to make on the website so they send you the correct coil for the type of adapter you've got.  It's an option at checkout and they give you a detailed instruction manual on how to make the adapter with plenty of photos to follow with the order.

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Some additional checks for the X-Coil cable modification.

Before cutting the cable on the Minelab donor coil measure and record the resistance across the four large pins of the Minelab 7 pin connector;

Pins 2 and 3 should be between 0.3 to 0.7 ohms.

Pins 1 and 4 should be between 4    to   7 ohms.

Pins 1 and 3 should be no reading which indicates not shorted.

Pins 2 and 4 should be no reading which indicates not shorted.

The small pin 5 should not have continuity with any of pins 1 through 4 which indicates that there is no shorts to the coil shield.
Don’t measure the small pins 6 &7; they are the Minelab coil ID pins.

After completing the cable modifications:

Repeat the above measurements with the Minelab donor coil connected.

Repeat the above measurements with the X- Coil connected. 

If the measurements are close to the recorded values then proceed on with caution to testing with the detector.

Have a good day,

Minelab 7 pin connector.JPG

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  • 8 months later...

I must confess, I'm a tinkerer.  So when I got my GPZ I had to decide what cable type I prefer, the standard X-coil adapter where you cut the cord right up near the control box to make your adapter, or Chet's long style adapter that he came up with.  I liked Chet's idea a lot as it made changing coils far easier.   The thing that concerned me was the adapter wobbling around inside the shaft causing falsing with the movement of the metal plug on the adapter.  The adapter seems reasonably far away from the coil and in my case the start of the metal plug is 62 centimeters (24.5 inches) and when you have the shaft tilted as you would in a normal detecting scenario the metal of the adapter to me seems well out of the field of detection anyway.  If you wave a microphone plug end that far from your coil off to the rear, no matter what coil you're using the detector doesn't see it.


I've now been using my GPZ for a fair few months exclusively with the X-coils on it and have been happy with the results of Chet's style adapter, the Chet style adapter is much easier to make too as it's in an easy to do location away from the curls so it's just soldering a microphone plug onto the straight wires.  I initially was worried about the plug being near the coil, mostly because of comments here and the fact moving metal near a coil just seems wrong.  I generally use my detector about as cranked up as a GPZ can go too so with my sensitivity and settings so high I was more likely to encounter a problem than someone that has higher mineralisation and runs their detector with lower settings.

I had thought of a few ways to make the cable not move inside the shaft but they all looked messy and were just more of a temporary solution so I started the brain ticking over, how could I make the EXACT size I wanted so the cord easily moved within the shaft but had no wiggle room to move around in an easy to do way.  I was thinking of 3D printing and all sorts of difficult methods.

While sitting down to some KFC it came to me! Tape! PVC tape could get the exact size but didn't look appealing and wasn't permanent however then if I was to shrink some dual wall glue adhesive heat shrink over top taking into account it's size I had a permanent solution that looked professional too.

For anyone that's never used dual wall before it's awesome, the only tube I use.  It's more expensive than heat shrink but it's worth it, for the strength it gives to the joint by gluing itself down as the inside of it is coated in a heat activated glue plus its waterproof.

I started off the process by adding some dual wall over the top of the connection ensuring it was contacting the metal plug as well as the original factory wire to add maximum strength to the adapter itself.  This should put to rest the fear some have about the adapter causing unnecessary stress on the soldered wires, with this tubing glued down between the adapter housing and the wiring the pull of the cord on the adapter is secured by the glued heat shrink, you can even do a few layers if you feel like it for even more strength.


That's the plug with the dual wall over it contacting with both the metal adapter and the original cord with it's glue.


When shrinking the dual wall you start at one end working your way back to the other end shrinking it down around the wire as you go, you'll see when you finish at each end the glue protrudes out from the heat shrink showing you've got a good secure seal.  For this process I used 19mm dual wall which I got at Jaycar which is in Australia and NZ but all electronics shops and even car parts suppliers should carry it.   It just slides over the plug ends and shrinks 4X so easily enough to do the job.  Its not one of those scenarios you have to put the heat shrink on before you solder the plug end, these dual walls shrink remarkably small for their size.

Now that I've done my strength layer I wrapped PVC tape around the cord to the height I needed so there was no wobble in the shaft taking into account the thickness of the heat shrink layer I'm going to add over top.



Looking good, easy to test by just putting it into the shaft, or if you've got them even better, use calipers to get it exactly how you want it.


Nice fit, with wiggle room for the heat shrink layer along with freedom of movement inside the shaft.  For the next step as the tape is much bigger I've changed to using 24mm dual wall which I shrink down over the tape, with it's glue lining it makes it a permanent solution, even if the tape ever started to lose it's stick it's not going anywhere.


This is the heatshink I used.  Comes as a big long tube about a meter in length I think it was.


Easy fit over top of the tape.


Now I set my soldering station's heat gun to 100 degrees, the lowest setting it goes on, no need for excessive heat as it's more than enough to shrink the tube.   You can use a lighter to do it but the soldering station just does it easier.



And off I go starting at one end and working my way to the other.


And this is how it looks when shrunk down.


Pretty neat and professional looking I think.


Now it just glides through the shaft with no issues but the cord no longer has wobbling movement inside the shaft, even if you shake it.  This maybe completely unnecessary as I can't see the plug end being in the field of detection anyway but it's just an extra precaution plus it adds a lot of strength to the soldered plug end to stop the conspiracy theories that the solder joints will pop off even though they're soldered then glued into place inside the adapter, hardly any different to the original molded adapter, they don't pop off! 🙂

Here's a video I did of the solder joints in the plug end before the glue is added and squeezed in all the gaps.  You just squeeze in the hot glue and use a finger dipped in water to mold it to shape before putting the plug cover on, then some dual wall over top.

I personally did this to my adapter, but seeing I'd already done my adapter and wanted to show how it was done I also did it to the 19" GPZ coil so I could take the photos showing it.  It can be done to either, or both. 


By the way, I tried out the 19" Coil, I don't like it... so heavy!   I'll have to get myself a large X-coil one day instead.

And the coolest bit about Chet's style X-coil adapter, I can now change coils on my GPZ FASTER than I can any other detector.  I've done it in under 30 seconds start to finish.  I did a little video this morning showing how easy it is to do.

It went from the hardest detector I own to change coils to the easiest.  I'm sure those who own the 19" coil and have changed from the 14" to the 19" know exactly what I'm talking about.

So thank you Chet, you're a genius!

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That is excellent Simon, great description and pictures and video, and yes it really makes changing/swapping coils very easy, well done Simon and thanks for sharing the way you have done that.

And thanks Chet for the original idea as well, as everyone knows from small things great things grow.

cheers dave

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I am in awe of both of you, Chet and Phrunt. Your thoughtful and clear posts are an education.
There is no way I could pull off what you guys have done.

I am still hoping NuggetFinder is able to get their coil out but it's been pretty quiet. In the mean time I read your posts and learn.


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Thanks Flak, it's all Chet this one.  He had a good idea and went with it and I just used his idea.

I forgot to say in my previous post I think the stress on the adapter is a bit overstated.  My reason for saying this is a few days ago I'd forgotten to do up the screw connector on the plug that you see me doing up in the short video where I change coils going between the coil and the adapter.  So I changed coils by just plugging the plug in, and then extended out the GPZ shaft as per normal, it wasn't until days later when I changed coils again that I realised I'd not screwed it up on my previous coil change.  If there was really that much pull on the cord from the curly cable it would have easily pulled the two plugs part.

I'm confident the standard method of glue on the terminals along with some heat shrink would do the job, I just see no point using normal heat shrink when dual wall exists that also contains the heat activated glue, so much stronger than normal heat shrink for an insignificant amount of extra money.

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    Great tutorial Simon! Another how-to to add to the detecting scrap book! Keep up the good work! I love solid, well thought out, Macgyvering!👍👍

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Simon and Chet,

When I got my adapter made I chose the original method just preferring to have a joint farther 'away' to prevent any possible interference.  As I was watching Simon's presentation I was remembering what Chet said.  The coil didn't act like there was interference from that joint but I kinda wondered why.  I know there is none because I've seen Chet use his.

Simon has eliminated the wobble and taken that out of the equation.  So why would the coil 'ignore' the joint in favor of a nugget which could be deeper?  The joint is MOVING WITH THE COIL!  The coil tunes itself with the wires that attach it just like every other detector with the exception of the XP.  The nuggets/targets are not moving.

When I had my shop make the adapter he was not much concerned with the adapter part itself but he later became concerned with the curl on the 19" coil.  I'm not overly concerned with it because I don't plan on using it but I want it useable.

I have another event to add to this.  I went on an Arizona prospecting trip a few months back.  It was to the Franconia area.  On that trip the first day I was there I went to catch up with my friend and we decided to move locations.  I got in my 4Runner and made it to the main road a little bit before him.  He stopped and waved me over to where I had parked.  He picked up my detector!  What?  I thought it was inside but my long overnight drive had me not thinking.

I had run over my 7000 and it broke down on the lower shaft where Simon was taking it apart to change coils. (You'll need some to change quickly.)  Luckily it did not affect the detector or the Xcoil I had on it.  I had the 19" with me so I changed the lower shaft and it has worked find ever since.  The adapter was not damaged in the process.  I've since bought a lower shaft from Gerry (under $100) and I'm fine.

It could have been so much worse with the tire running over EVERYTHING.  I don't need to find any gold this year and I'm still ahead of the game.


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Glad you just got the lower shaft and not the control pod, I think the coil would survive a run over much better than the control pod would too but the lower shaft was pure luck 🙂

As a little experiment Mitchel next time you've got your GPZ fired up and with your shaft at your usual detecting tilt measure about 24.5 inches up your shaft (where the adapter connector is on my GPZ), move a coin around at that spot emulating the coil adapter on that spot on your shaft   The detector won't see it.  My wobble protection is just a safeguard, likely not necessary just being cautious.

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      No more gold for the afternoon so time to head home, it was starting to rain a bit anyway.

      So my little nugget, it was 0.058 of a gram until I cleaned it, should have left it dirty 🙂
      The other good news, my WM12 has started working, I was having a lot of trouble with it on previous trips with the audio constantly dropping out, this time it was fine, no idea why or how, different location so maybe it was some weird interference at the other spot that kept making it play up even on multiple days.  It dropped out a few times but in normal scenarios you would expect it to drop.   This time I was using the WM12 with my SP01 as I'd rigged up my harness how I liked it, it meant I ran the GPZ volume on 4 and let the booster do al the work previously when using the GPZ here I'd just run the WM12 with no extra speaker or SP01.  I really think a low GPZ volume with the booster doing the work makes faint targets stand out more, the GPZ appears to run smoother.
      So nothing too exciting from my afternoon hunt except the weird rock!
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