Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Steve Herschbach

Wore Out GPZ Skidplate - Anyone Tried The Razorback?

Recommended Posts

Thanks Rob, good to know. I hope business is great but do smell the roses when you can! Say hi to Dawn and Dennis for me.

Welcome to the forum Keith! To be honest you got the benefit of a good Google response. Interesting to see an east coast dealer stocking GPZ accessories. Are they seeing any use outside the prospecting world? Seems like the extreme sensitivity to tiny ferrous stuff would be an issue, but that is all high tones. Dig low tones only might work in certain relic hunting situations but unfortunately that trick would be no good nugget hunting.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve, I use two part Epoxy all the time and for the longest time mix it on a six

inch square of cardboard, I just cut off a 2x3 inch piece of cardboard to use as

a mixer, spatula..

The whole point is to this, I would take that disk (coil cover) clean it good, 409,

or Denatured Alcohol, put a couple of two inch circles two part epoxy on the

disk, mix and spread. These two bottles will last forever.


Epoxy  this stuff is the best, about 20 minute. 15 bucks


  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Thank you for the welcome! I'll be sure to stop by from time to time... :)

We do keep some of the GPZ accessories on hand, as there are a few of these machines on the east coast.... Plus with the website a customer can pop up from anywhere at any time. :)

It's tough to use the GPZ in the Civil War camps... But it can be done. Without iron reject all those tiny surface nails not heard when using the GPX can overwhelm a user swinging the GPZ. But if you can get in the areas where the targets have been thinned out, with a bit of paitence some deeper relics can be found.... Such as the confederate camps where guys typically dig just about every signal. At the DIV last spring I did find quite a few relics with it, but most of those low tones which are bullets. When you do go over a bullet with the GPZ, there is no doubting it. The prized buttons come in nice and loud as a high tone when you get over one.... But as you noted so does the shallow small iron. At the end of the week I was starting to figure out the tones, but it's tough to discern which signals are worth digging and which ones to pass.

At this time, for the vast majority of relic hunters will not have the paitence to use a GPZ, and opt to keep swinging a GPX for best results. But there are a few who will adopt it. I know of one fellow (a non-dealer) taking a new one to the fall DIV.... And I'll be curiously watching his results. Long term I don't see a large group of relic hunters adopting this machine, but there will be a select few that figure out how to harness it to work for them.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I have been getting in the hours and have wore out my GPZ 7000 scuff cover / coil cover / skidplate.


New genuine Minelab covers are like everything else GPZ rare as hen's teeth. Part number 3011-0286 and very few places on the internet can be found that advertise having them in stock. $62 retail, and Ft. Bedford claims to have them in stock for $48 http://www.fortbedfordmetaldetectors.com/minelab-gpz7000-14x13-coil-cover


Miner John has an aftermarket coil at http://razorbackcoils.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5908106 that Chris alerted us to back in May http://www.detectorprospector.com/forum/topic/930-gpz-7000-coil-cover-available/ for about the same price. It is twice as thick and has fewer slots that would let dirt get in between the coil and scuff cover. Has anyone tried these out and can report on them?

Steve and all,


Having worn out the stock GPZ 7000 skid-plate in relatively very short order (No, I am not a scuffer) and seeing how thin the coil itself is, I purchased the Miner John Designs GPZ coil cover out of necessity.


IMHO this Miner John 7000 cover is the best investment that can be made to protect this effective, but costly, detecting unit. This skid-plate is “Tank Tough” and swinging one of the heavier detectors on the market, the weigh is not an issue at all. It's heavy duty design does not affect sensitive or performance in any way with the finding of nuggets at depth to prove it.


As for the slots on the edge of the Super D, I really think that Minelab lay-out of the coil's edges was to ensure that they would be the only game in town. The Miner John Designs GPZ coil cover far exceeds the manufacture's best efforts, period. The Cover stays snug and does not allow dirt to get inside and some would want you to believe.


I pose a very important question to those that have a GPZ and use their 7000 a great deal:


Knowing how thin the stock cover is and how quickly they disintegrate, why would you keep beating your head against the wall by purchasing a “dollar store trash can lid” over and over again when you could have a heavy duty cover to protect a primary part of an expensive detecting device?



  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I had a spare Minelab skid plate and Miner John was kind enough to send me one of his. And just so people know the one Doc sells is made by Miner John - Doc just slaps his own sticker on them.

It is fairly simple. Almost all scuff covers are made of the same fairly stout plastic. For some reason on the SDC 2300 and GPZ 7000 Minelab has gone to a soft plastic (polypropylene?) which is about the same stuff as makes up an old style coffee can lid. It is flexible and soft and wears quickly.

The Miner John seems barely any thicker but it is the standard skid plate material we are all used to. Quite stout and will barely flex at all. There is extra material there however. The Minelab cover weighs 4.3 ounces while the Miner John cover weighs 7.4 ounces.

The Minelab brand cover must be aligned perfectly to get on but goes on easy enough. However, if you look at the picture below closely you can see stress marks at each notch where the plastic stretched and in a couple spots looked close to splitting just putting it on.


The Miner John version went on easy enough until the last notch. I just pushed a bit harder and it popped on, no tools needed, but some may want to use a screwdriver or butter knife to ease that last notch over the edge of the coil.

The Miner John is about 1/4" to 3/8" higher that the Minelab version. No doubt a bit of the extra weight creeps in here. This is also good in that it protects the sides of the coil better, but bad in that it creates a channel around the edge to collect fine silt, which can then work down into the space between cover and coil. I doubt it will be much of an issue however and I honestly never had much problem in that regard with the Minelab cover either.

My personal take given that both these covers cost about the same in the United States is that the Miner John is the far better buy. It is bound to last much longer, easily twice as long or more I am guessing. The Minelab cover does weigh less and if you keep the coil suspended over the ground that might matter. But then you really do not need a heavy duty scuff cover anyway. Mine rides on the ground so the extra weight won't matter. For somebody really using the GPZ a lot it will add up in savings over time. We will see. I will use the Miner John and keep the Minelab cover for backup.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used the Miner John skid plate on my last trip. I did not notice any difference in sensitivity to small targets and yes it is nice and thick so I feel that it protects the coil better then the standard skid plate. When I took it off after the trip there was barely any dirt inside so I was happy with that. The stock skid plate accumulated lots of dirt and I used to take it off at the end of the day to clean it. As stated earlier my problem with the Miner John was that I could not get it on without heating the tabs with a heat gun and bending them out a little. I tried using a screw driver to pry out the tabs but I did not like the way it was putting pressure on my $10,000 metal detectors coil. The plastic on the ZED  coil is not much thicker the that on the standard skid plate. Maybe I got one that was extra tight fitting I don't know. Once you get the Miner John on its great. Maybe it will soften up with use and be easier to get on and off.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve; in your opinion would using silicon-stuff to seal the dust out of the Minerjohn coils be a reasonable option. I have always used sealant on my vlf coils and some of the Minelab pi coils....these new spider-web and notched coils are another world...to me.


I have a ways to go before I wear out my gpz cover but it will happen.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update Steve, The soft stock coil cover doesnt add any real strength, and if your a ground scrubber, at least for me,  the coil falses sometimes from the deflection caused by bumping and  scrubbing on rough terrain. Sounds like these are the ticket.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fred, sealing the edges is an option but I do not know there is a problem to fix yet for sure. I doubt it really and strick says no. I will know soon and will report back.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't see a big difference between the dirt that gets in your scuff cover and the dirt you're swinging your coil over on the ground. It's all dirt...

Unless you get a bunch of black sand in there maybe.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Steve Herschbach
      Well out of the blue Doc or Doc's Detecting Supply of Las Vegas sent me a goodie bag with some product to look over. Thanks Doc! Before I begin I want you to know I did not request this stuff. In order to not look like I am trading favorable comments for gear I am going to use this stuff as prizes in various forum contests I have planned (best finds, etc.). All these goodies Doc sent me will be finding new homes in the near future so stay tuned.
      I already have a few of Doc's products. I have one of his original Swingy Thingy support harnesses from over ten years ago. I don't use it per se but it remains in my detecting kit at all time "just in case". This is cool because Doc sent me the latest version of the Ultra Swingy Thingy to look at, and they are light years apart. The old one is little more than a strap and bungee. The new one is a full harness system.

      Original Swingy Thingy detector support harness
      I also have been using Doc's cover for the GPZ 7000 since the cover came out at the end of 2015. So I am already a little familiar with the product construction. I have not used my GPZ 7000 without that cover since the day I got it. It is a very well thought out protective cover system and I could not be happier with how mine has worked out.

      Doc's protective cover system for the Minelab GPZ 7000
      Here is a look at the new covers for the Minelab Gold Monster 1000 and Minelab Equinox 600/800 models. The two covers are very similar.
      Before I forget, I want to mention that I always apply a stick on screen saver to my metal detector displays before installing any of these loose fit type pod covers. Dust and grit will get into the inside of these covers no matter what you do, and the dust between the inside of the covers and the screen can abrade the screen. I look at the pod cover as a protective cover for the entire pod, but not ones that eliminate the need for a screen protector. If you have gone without and had no issues that's great. I still recommend using separate screen savers and always apply them to my new detectors before they ever see the field.

      Docs' cover for the Minelab Equinox (left) and Minelab Gold Monster 1000 (right)
      The Equinox cover is a two piece affair, with a cover for the display pod and the armrest cup. A new arm strap is included. The Gold Monster cover includes an additional item in the form of a small cover for the upright support post.
      Again, new arm straps included. For those that do not like using an arm strap Doc includes a couple small velcro stick tabs that allow you to attach the cover more firmly to the arm cup using the velcro tabs.

      Closeup of armrest cover showing cordura nylon and stitching details
      Here is a little closer detail of the pod cover for the Minelab Equinox models...

      Detail of Doc's pod cover for the Minelab Equinox metal detector
      The cover simply pulls down over the top of the pod once you disconnect the coil, then make the coil connection again once the cover is installed. Two velcro straps wrap around the bottom and back of the pod to pull it down and attach it firmly in place. Two velcro sticky tabs are included for those who wish attach the cover to the pod via internal velcro tabs. This could help keep the pod from shifting in place but most people won't need them. A nice touch is the little bit of stretch material forming a band that holds the charger cable more firmly in place while in use.

      Equinox pod cover detail showing charger cable in place
      As you can see in the photo above I put the cover over the little cap and strap that protects the physical headphone port when not in use. I never use wired headphones out of water and so this worked for me, but if you wanted easy access to the headphone plug port you would want to route the strap over the cover instead of under it.
      The cover has two slots on each side to allow access to the Equinox pod side buttons. The thickness of the cover requires you push the tip of your finger into the slot to push the buttons, but this is easily done.

      Side view of Equinox cover showing button access slots
      The Gold Monster pod cover is simpler, just pull over and secure with a velcro strap. As noted the Gold Monster cover set includes a cover for the upright battery compartment support post - see the first picture in the post.

      Detail of Doc's pod cover for the Minelab Gold Monster 1000
      The bottom line is I found both these covers to be well designed and constructed. Visit the Doc's Detecting website for the latest information on pricing and availability.
      Doc included the latest version of his Goldscreamer Brand Qweegle Bungee. Earlier versions I saw had a kind of bolt on attachment for the detector rod. This latest version attaches to the detector with a velcro strap clip not unlike the one that comes with the Minelab GPZ 7000. I really like this type of attachment since it will work on any rod size with no issues. What makes Doc's bungee unique is the quick adjustments at both ends of the bungee.

      Doc's Goldscreamer Brand Qweegle Bungee
      This is a nice stout bungee, and one that can be rigged to support almost any detector from any backpack or rucksack shoulder D-ring attachment point. However, for those in need Doc has made the Qweegle Bungee an integral part of the new Ultra Swingy Thingy harness.
      The Ultra Swingy Thingy is basically a large "Y" or yoke. One wide padded strap goes down your back and attaches to your pants at the belt line. The strap splits behind your neck and drops large padded straps over each shoulder.

      Harness rear attachment point
      The front padded straps end in adjustable steel clips that attach the harness to the belt line of pants exactly the same way that suspenders work. There is also a front cross-strap at chest level to tie both sides of the harness assembly together for a snug fit. There are two super oversize rings on each shoulder, either one which can act as an attachment point for the Qweegle Bungee.
      Click photo for closer view...

      Details of the Ultra Swingy Thingy Harness with Qweegle Bungee
      This, simply put, is a really great detector support system. Here is Doc's sales sheet below for the harness which has all kinds of details about the product.
      If anyone has any questions on any details of these items including any requests for any photo details - please just ask. And like I noted, all these items will be featured soon as prizes in various contest activities I plan on offering to stir up a little more action on the forums. Thanks again Doc for this surprise package. Keep up the good work filling in the gaps in available detecting gear for the avid detectorists among us! ?
      Doc's Ultra Swingy Thingy - click image fr larger version

    • By phrunt
      A package I've been very much looking forward to arrived in the mail today, I call them the twins.  It made sense to package them both in one package for postage reasons and fortunately JW was working doing some renovations at his house around the corner from mine today so he had his a few minutes after the courier arrived at my place with the package as I shot straight over to give it to him. 
      I tore the box open to find them extremely well packaged

      And now the twins

      15x10 spiral wound X-coils, one for the GPZ, one for the GPX.  The GPZ's coils curly cord seems good to me.

      They came with a spare coil cover.  This is obviously the GPZ coil.

      And the GPX one.
      Hopefully I can find some gold soon with it, I've on a dry spell at the moment, although the football field of coins has kept me busy.  It's been about a month since I've attempted to find gold as my weekends are filled with skiing as my daughter is addicted to it and my week days have been busy doing the local coin hunting, now this coil has arrived I best get out there soon.  It snowed yesterday and today there is a freezing wind blowing off the snow, if it wasn't for that I'd be shooting off now to test it out.  Only about 2 weeks left of ski season.
      JW's been doing pretty well lately with his 10x9" X-coil and he rarely takes it off he loves it so much so it will be interesting to see how he goes with this new one being spiral (flat wound) when his 10x9" is bundle wound. 
    • By klunker
      I just couldn't figure it out. The old Jeep mysteriously started running much smoother and quieter and became much more stable. I would also say that it's performance somehow increased by 30% or perhaps even 40%. In fact i was so impressed i decided I would invest some time into cleaning it up a bit. As I was mucking out the interior ( forgotten rock samples, sticks and leaves, old sandwich wrappers with sandwiches, dropped nuggets and such) I found Sourdough Scott's missing ferrite ring. I took it out and put it where Scott could pick it up and now the Jeep is back to it's usual squeaky, whinny, worbally self.
       Mystery solved.

    • By phrunt
      I always wondered if there was even gold around where the X-coil manufacturer lives, I didn't know much about Russian gold or if Russia even had much gold.
      Here is a video broken into parts of the Russian manufacturer showing the different capabilities of the 17x12" X-Coil between the Standard GPZ14” Minelab coil being used near high voltage power lines in Russia.
      It's good to see he is a prospector.
      Sorry about the quality of some of the parts. 
      It's a deep hole he has to dig to get it, nice soft soil though... that'd make life easier than using a jackhammer 🙂
    • By Emmanuel
      Hello fellow prospectors,
      I recently acquired a Minelab GPZ 7000 and I am looking for a fellow prospector wanting to search for gold with me in Southern California. As a former FBI agent, I have learned it is better to have two people when exploring unknown places... I have been using a Minelab CTX 3030 and I am ready for something new i.e. gold prospecting. I live in Long Beach but  I also have a home in the Lake Arrowhead area (San Bernardino County). I believe some areas are worth prospecting in San Bernardino County. Having said that, I am willing to travel. Reach out if you are interested. ads4350@gmail.com
    • By jasong
      I was going to post this in one of the X Coil threads, but it might be of interest to everyone.
      I bought a replacement ferrite ring since I left my ML ferrite in Arizona. It's one of the Doc's ferrites with the white backside (off Ebay), I did not realize they were not ML ferrites when I bought it. The OEM Minelab ferrites have a black backside.
      It would not balance on the X Coils at all and actually sounded like a screaming target (I didn't try the Z14) so I reported that to the coil manufacturer. He responded that the white backed aftermarket rings are not the same as the ML rings. So, as I normally do, I checked for myself, bought an authentic ML ring, and he was right.
      They are the same size, but the Doc's ring is 10 grams heavier (something I noticed immediately but did not have a ML ring to compare to until recently). It is also more magnetic. The Doc's ring is also conductive whereas the ML ring is non-conductive - the Doc's ring was reading about 38 ohms from side to side whereas the ML ring read infinity. And after I sanded the backs to get a fresh surface to check resistances on I noticed the ML ring looks dull and black as a ferrite should, but the Doc's ring looks shiny and metallic, like iron.
      So, clearly there are differences between the two rings. Thought people might like to know even if you are just using the stock coil, as I'm not sure how this affects the ground balance, but someone could be running suboptimally using this ring.

  • Create New...