Seeing how Whites is out of business now , I decided I should get a replacement shell for my trx before they are unavailable and I wear mine out like my old Garrett pro pointer. I ordered from Serious Detecting LLC . $34.93 with free shipping. Not trying to advertise for them, I have just made purchases from them before so thought I'd get it there. Also seen some available from others on E-bay. Sure hated to see White's close their doors.
I am in a pickle, I wanted a new TRX but now White's is gonners and international shipping is terribly unreliable due to the virus I need to buy local.
My preference was a pin pointer that would be better than the Garrett Pro Pointer AT on small gold, the TRX seemed the best for this purpose although I own a TRX already and was disappointed as I felt my Carrot AT was just as good as it on small gold so I've questioned it's authenticity seeing I bought it off Ebay. I still don't know if it's fake, it doesn't look fake, but that does not mean much these days.
Anyway, my options are a Nokta Pulse Dive which I know will suck for small gold being designed as a beach pin pointer and the Fisher F-Pulse.
Now seeing I'm not going to get my wish for a more sensitive to small gold pin pointer than my Carrot AT, which pin pointer is going to be best for coins, especially when it comes to depth in MILD soils.
Both are PI, and both are available at my local dealer.
I want to hear from owners of both which they think is best for coins. I will eventually use it as a beach pin pointer too as I am going to take up beach detecting sometime over winter while the beaches are empty.
I like the Pulse Dive has a coil option as I'd probably use that beach detecting while swimming in OZ on my next trip but it's not important, depth is the most important attribute I guess seeing small gold sensitivity isn't going to be a factor, unless either is better than the Carrot At.
Also does the F-Pulse save settings as in all honestly, after reading the manual it's an absolute butt hole at changing settings, 9 presses of a button to get the setting I would want. If I had to do this every time I turn it on I'd throw it in the bin. Reading the comments here didn't really excite me and sounds like the TRX is better, didn't give me a lot of confidence, sounded like a VLF would be better but harder to make..... took the easy way out?...... https://md-hunter.com/fisher-f-pulse-review-in-practice-opinions/
Although those who know me well will know I appreciate this was written in the manual..... I appreciate honesty, especially when it comes to this sort of thing
That was an image from the manual here http://www.fisherlab.com/hobby/manuals/MPPFXP-FPulse.pdf
Thanks for any help.
I was lucky enough to test one of the first sample 8” coil units For the Pulse Dive and what I found was very pleasing!
From the beginning I was hoping that Nokta|Makro would make a larger coil for the PulseDive so I was very excited when I heard from Dilek that they were doing exactly that! I was given an 8” coil to test and although I admit that it was essentially a finished product already!
My first concern was that the larger coil would be too easy to twist off accidentally due to being larger and having more leverage but upon receiving I found they had already thought of this and actually provide the coil with a harder gasket/o-ring so the friction is high making it harder to twist off and very unlikely to come off underwater! 😃
My next concern was that the coil would be overly sensitive causing it to false excessively in mineralised areas or just from salt water but once again my concerns had already been addressed and the machine was stable in salt water however it is important to note that the machine must be turned on or retuned in the salt water because turning it on in air and entering salt water can cause it to false but of course this is a non-issue just important to note for new players.
The depth on this coil in air tests is consistently in the range of 30% more than the standard coil and from the hours I’ve put on it I’d have to say this is reflected underwater also. The coverage is also greater so at a guess I’d have to say the 8” coil scans double the volume of sand in a single sweep than the smaller coil does 👌
Pinpointing on the larger coil is more difficult and I would recommend for low/no visibility conditions using the smaller coil for the speed of recovery however with enough practice and the right techniques it is certainly possibly to hone in your pinpointing skills with this coil. One trick I’ve learnt and seen used with other detectors is to turn the coil on its edge once the target is close to narrow down your search even further and it’s definitely applicable to the 8” coil.
I’ve had some questions about battery life with the larger coil and I haven’t noticed a difference so I’m not sure if there really is a difference in current draw from this coil or not but I can still get 8 hours from it which Is enough for one day! 😂
Overall the coil is more effected by mineralisation and EMI which is standard for larger coils and pinpointing is a bit more difficult HOWEVER the depth and coverage in underwater scenarios is comparable to other water detectors costing literally 10X what the PulseDive costs.
I have now switched to using this detector/coil combo almost exclusively over my other water detectors (whites Dualfield and Garrett Seahunter mk2) mainly for convenience, low/no maintenance, no cables or knobs to fail and no need to wear headphones however I will still use these machines where there are a lot of hot rocks so I can remove them or reduce their signal by adding pulse delay 👌
*photo of gold (and palladium) found so far with the big coil*
I know the carrot is highly thought of but I have seen some heavy users say the tip can wear and expose things. I am looking at the Pulse Two in One and like what I see including what seems to be a better protected tip. Another option is the Quest Scuba Tector again with additional tip protection. Problem is both are kinda new and I have seen some bashing, especially on the Quest. The thing is no matter how many whistles and bells something has it's basic function has to work or nothing else matters. I am not wed to any of these three choices; just the ones that my research has turned up so far. Any advice welcome.
I've successfully removed 9V batteries from my Garrett Carrot (which now uses AAA batteries) and I've started on the process and getting rid of 9V batteries in my Fisher F2.
I've taken the approach if trying to use a single battery to power the F2. A while back, I read from somewhere that the F2 ran off two 9v batteries running in parallel. However, this means that if I use a single battery for the F2, it should work (assuming the single battery has the ability to provide the necessary current). But when I try to use this set up, my battery gets warm. I eventually realized that the Fisher F2 is NOT using a "pure" parallel setup. If it were, it would not be creating a short circuit in my single power source setup.
So my question is: how exactly is the Fisher F2 power wiring arranged? It's not parallel and it doesn't appear to be in series, either.
Any insight would be appreciated.
By Diggin' It
What kind of batteries ya'll use? I used to buy nothing but Duracell rechargeable, then in the last year I couldn't find any. I just bought some Rayovac with a charger, but they don't seem to hold a charge. I charged them, put them in, they showed full charge as I hunted for about an hour, then the next day only see two dots on the power gauge. I recharged them hoping they needed a break in, but they did the same thing. Now I have used them for 3 days, with only two dots showing, they don't seem to be going any lower, but I don't trust them. I just did a search and found a bunch of Duracells, I might of been looking for the same charger I used to have, that died, and couldn't find it. I hate to go spend more on a different brand...I didn't notice until now, the rechargeable's are 1.2 volt, whereas the regular are 1.5 volt, would that make a difference?
I don't want a battery pack, at least not a NiCad...