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Great review Mark! Your observations mirror many of mine so we are in agreement on a lot. Good catch on the arm strap being too short. I did not mention that in my report, but it was the first thing I replaced on my AQ.

I have to admit I found tones to be rather useless at first, but really liked it at a different location, so it seems to depend on the location as to how useful it is. It’s pretty busy also in dense targets. I like full tones on my VLF so I’m guessing people who do not like full tones may find the AQ Tone setting to be a lot to handle in thick targets. Not saying you... just an observation based on my last hunt.

You mentioned mostly using presets, just wanted to confirm your ATS was at the preset of 8. In all metal it is tempting to run lower ATS for more depth, but running it too low will cause the tones mode to read all items as high tone.

Yeah, the battery. Several of us have confirmed the battery runs about 2.5 hours on the first go, and takes a couple complete discharge and charge cycles to get to the full 3.5 hour running time.

Rigging a support so the detector hangs by your side is a very good idea. Setting it on the ground, leaning against you side, all put the power cable at risk. I simply ran a rope to my wader suspenders for now.

If you take the armrest off there are three preset drilled positions. It is set for the middle. Be careful running the bolt back in - the power and headphone wires run through the tube.

Extending the Impulse AQ Rod

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Good review Mark although I was initially pissed that the battery only lasted 2.5 hours....till I read what Steve said..... I'm ok with having to cycle the battery a few times to get the max time out of it...

Good luck on the next hunt.

Cliff

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Good reviews: you have both mentioned lanyards for your machines. Last year I decided I wanted to try one on the beach and saw the old paddle leash i had on my kayak. I tried it and I use it always now. It's just a woven nylon tube with 3/8 sick cord inside. Loop on one end and Velcro on the other. It's nominally 48" long at rest. Here is a picture from Amazon.

This one is $13 on Amazon and a similar one at my local sports store was twice that. One of my concerns was being able to get out of the thing if i  got knocked downin the surf. In an emergency I can slip this. Search for kayak paddle leash.

Tim

71TPpZ7cvPL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

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  • Thanks for the Report Mark and Glad to see another that will post on the subject. 

On the ATS, between 7.5 and 8.5 seems like the most effective area of the dial for fine tuning the reject mode...

The arm rest can be adjust forwards or back  one inch. 

Good Luck and Thanks for sharing! 

 

ARM SUPPOT USES CENTER HOLE.jpg

 

And this would be the very first thing I would do to any of the "AQ"s stress relief the HP cable........I've also got into the habit of disconnecting the main power cord that goes into the back of the shaft during transporting ...less to get hit.

21 hp.jpg

 

Another tip is keep the red silicon o-rings in place, not only do the serve as o-rings but as spacers to keep from over tightening. Something I went thru years ago with the 3m M-12 fittings...over tightening.......... the lip of the fitting would snap off. 

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On 6/25/2020 at 12:17 PM, Joe Beechnut OBN said:
  • Thanks for the Report Mark and Glad to see another that will post on the subject. 

On the ATS, between 7.5 and 8.5 seems like the most effective area of the dial for fine tuning the reject mode...

The arm rest can be adjust forwards or back  one inch. 

Good Luck and Thanks for sharing! 

 

ARM SUPPOT USES CENTER HOLE.jpg

 

And this would be the very first thing I would do to any of the "AQ"s stress relief the HP cable........I've also got into the habit of disconnecting the main power cord that goes into the back of the shaft during transporting ...less to get hit.

21 hp.jpg

 

Another tip is keep the red silicon o-rings in place, not only do the serve as o-rings but as spacers to keep from over tightening. Something I went thru years ago with the 3m M-12 fittings...over tightening.......... the lip of the fitting would snap off. 

Yes, that was the first thing I noticed about the headphone cable....and the power cable for that matter. they really stick out like a sore thumb. What I did until I find a better method, is to run the cable back under the arm rest between it and and the battery pod. That way the stress (if it gets any) will be on the cable almost a foot from the connector. I may tape it similar to what you have done though, so, it at least points in the right direction! 

AQ cable.jpg

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That headphone cable really looks like it's made from some stiff material.  Not  prone to too much re-directing away from the rear to the front.  Plus you already say it's not that long.  I like Joe's pigtail headphone cable rework where you can secure the cable better with rubber banding.  Thanks for the pictures Mark.  GaryC/Oregon Coast

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I just noticed that Joe's looks a bit different than mine. Mine seems to have more of a strain relief on it, and the coiled part seems to start sooner on his. From the connector to the first coil on mine is about 17". I don't think there is any strain the way I have it, in fact, I kind of like it this way. Less likely to get a sharp bend or strain it it if it can move a bit when needed.

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They changed the headphone cable after Joe got his. Mine was nixed and ready to ship, and they pulled it aside at the last minute to do whatever changes were made. I think I have unit #3?

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