I promised myself to go out and test the changes I made on the Tdi Beachhunter ...
In the end, all works properly and I'm a bit proud of what I've done thanks to some help I received here on the forum...
Last night, however, I got my hands on the scuba harness and made one of the most serious miscalculations ... Removing a lot of weight to be free to reach the beach without paying the price of pain after the fatigue ... I had in mind some splendid video on sidemount setup, which intrigued me to try in terms of set-up ...
The result was crap to say the least ...Sh...happens...
Not only did I gain 22kg during quarantine, even though I didn't seem so fat, actually the buoyancy got a lot worse and even with the 32kg weight including the 15lt steel tank, they weren't enough to keep me on the bottom.
So today, I massively messed up one of the most promising dive sessions to hunt...
In conclusion, the Detech coil does its job, but my transformation is definitely an act of stubbornness and I do not recommend repeating the work to anyone.
Although in any other environment, this coil would be adorable, underwater it manifests all its terrestrial nature ...
I recommend watching the video to people who are not faint of heart or stomach, without minors around.
Bad language censored and copyright defective.
Cheers all of You!
Hi, there. I was using my TDI BH for almost two years now. It worked great till the las week then I noticed an important sensitivity drop.
In other words, the detector switches on and work as usual, but no matter what I do, I am getting less depth on my targets.
Just to give you some numbers. My test target is a nickel coin which I was detecting from 27 cm a least (10us, gain full, gb off). Now, under the same conditions I can detect the same coin at 10-12 cm only.
It is not the matter of the battery, as I have tested it with different batteries I have laying around.
The TDI have a couple if weeks warranty left, but I have some doubts about my dealer's possibilities. On top of that the type of the fail is rare. Looks like the detector work as it should if not the lower detecting depth. For the person who is not familiar with TDI BH, this type of defect could be not so obvious.
Any ideas what could be the reason?
A friend traded me an old Tdi Sl for my old Canon DSLR with a couple lenses. The camera was old but still worked well and perhaps worth a couple hundred at most, so I threw in a telephoto lens and we had a deal. I got a dead or dying Tdi Sl in exchange. The machine would power on etc everything seems to work except it will not ground balance and sensitivity was way down to almost nothing. Ok so not dead but way out of sorts at least. The previous owner has moved on after having done something to the machine. Yes he had opened it up and poked about and tried to make adjustments or something to it. He has lots of history when it comes to pulling things appart followed by difficulty in putting them back together. Let's say this is not his first Humpty Dumpty moment, rather one of many.. Looking at the PCB there is nothing to adjust? I'll take a closer look later now that the PCB is out. At worst I figured I would get some parts etc.
Anyways, later I managed to obtain an SPP PCB and swapped them out. Plugged everything back as I would the TDI SL PCB. Sensitivity is back to normal, seems to work well. Pulse Delay as well as HI LOW ALL do not appear to work like they would on a Tdi SL , even though they are plugged into the board. It does appear to work as a Sierra Pulse Pro should. The SPP board is the latest with all the mods already done at the factory. The old White's rep in Australia has a few SPP boards left for about $70 US each. So I have an SPP for a while, until I can figure out how to repair the Tdi Sl PCB. I'll wait and see what happens. I've got a battery project on the boil and lots of real work to keep me busy. Locked down till mid August so I'll get busy playing with my projects during my spare time.
I'll compare it to my Tdi Sl LE and see if performance differs, should be the same. In the image the left PCB is SPP. right PCB is from sick Tdi Sl. I think it was a good deal and the end result satisfactory for now. Even better if I can fix the original board..
All the best.
I took my Excalibur out yesterday water hunting to an area I thought might hold some loot.....I was rewarded with a very nice Platinum ring.
The area was inundated with old bottlecaps and even though the Excal was nulling them out perfectly, it was hard going and required a good deal of patience. Because of this, I have decided to keep the TDIBH strictly for beach work as using a PI in this area would have made me quit in disgust. The detector has been reassembled back to the original Coil as I was planning on swapping out for a smaller coil for the water.
I feel too much time would be wasted using a PI in this area (And most of the areas I hunt in the water) and I needed to cover a lot of sea floor and make the most of the tides.
I feel I’m going to be a 90% VLF user for the water, based on iron and iron alloy junk plus mineralised ground is not a problem. I’ll keep the PI for the lower beach and hard pan when I do hit these areas.
By Bohemia Miner
I was on my way back from a detecting trip near Winnemucca. I stopped in at Armadillo in Grants Pass, Oregon and saw this hanging on the wall. Apparently, there are only three in existence. This one belongs to Sam. From what I understand, she received this for being the top salesperson in the company with this model.
I think this would have been a way better color than the original black!
By Steve Herschbach
On the TDI Pro the upper handle was a bolt on assembly with separate part numbers The prototype models has a straight shaft, and the production models an S shaft. In either case you could remove the handle via four bolts to hip or chest mount the control box.
Since the production models went S shaft, there were aftermarket straight shafts. Here is the Anderson aftermarket straight shaft for the TDI Pro:
Does anyone have any part numbers for the original TDI upper handle?
The SL models the handle does not normally separate (attaches from inside the control box) and so only White’s or White’s dealers would have access to the part number for the upper straight shaft or S shaft.
The straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 or S shaft 802-5213 is standard on many whites detectors, and there is a “tall man” version 500-0240-1 of the S shaft.
Does anyone know or have access to part numbers for the handle on the TDI SL, either straight or S shaft?
The TDI Beachunter uses a removable shaft that can probably be retrofitted to the SL models with some drilling.
This appears to be the White’s Diver Rod Kit, part # 802-5195-1, with straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 added, and may retrofit to the SL with some drilling.
White’s Diver Rod Kit
One of the best deals going in a rod assembly for years has been the Whites Space Saver Rod Kit for Classics and Early Goldmaster models, part number 802-5236. This may also retrofit the the SL and is in any case a good way to get some Whites Rod parts cheap. While they last.
White’s Space Saver Rod Kit
If anyone has any information they can add about any TDI model rod or shaft parts, now would be a great time to archive it while it’s still halfway easy to track down.