I absolutely love the extra ground coverage it gives me.
Still playing with the settings, today it was running smooth at 18 sensitivity/4 recovery speed underwater and 23 sensitivity/4 recovery speed in the wet sand.
After scoring 3 .925 peices doing up and downs on the shore line (found a rusty screw line not a coin line lol), I decided to continue them into the water. Low tide was half an hour away and dawn was slowly approaching.
About 10 feet in, on my first line into the water, BAM! Solid 9, 2-4 inches down. The excitement start flowing through my veins.
First scoop, Cartier platinum ring. 🤑
Gotta love that Fresh Drop Factor.
Hi, I am new to this site and looking at purchasing a metal detector for my husband for Christmas. He has always wanted one and really likes the Minelab (not sure why), I was looking a at the 600, though reading about the 800 it has extra features.
As this is his first, and I know he will use it. Which one would everyone recommend and as a beginner would these be suitable?
Thanks so much!
THANKYOU so much to everyone, I have read all the comments and must say this is an amazing group and so helpful. I defiantly think I will be getting him the 800 and letting him know to join his group! Thanks, Annie
By Joe D.
I went back to the lake where i found a 1935 Walking Liberty Half, at the beginning of the year! I believe that coin was a fluke find, as none of my other coins found there even come close to that date range!
Today, i went to another shallow water area where jet ski's tend to hang out, while people rest, or work on them! I had no expections of this spot, other than it has been on my "to detect" mental list for awhile!
I was there about 3 hours, and only worked about a 5x20 foot area against the shore, but the targets were layered and plentiful! I unfortunately did not get any old coins or gold, but the amount of targets in this small area kept me plenty busy!
I used Park 1, with sensitivity at 23, in a depth from few inches to about 2 feet! I was digging most every signal, and got very good at telling what denomination the coin targets where! And for many, i used my pinpointer for the final recovery, as most where under four inches in depth! I was really hoping for some lost jewelry, but no luck this time out!
It seems that no one has bothered to detect this spot, due to the amount of targets i found in such a small area! While these are not very worthwhile targets, they are typical of my area, and provide some good practice with the Nox!
I'm sure i can get a few more good hauls from this spot, as there is still quite a bit that is still unsearched! Maybe a little gold the next time out!🤞 👍👍
** I wanted to add my thoughts on the bullet below! I'm a hunter, but by no means a bullet expert! So you ballistic's guy's, please chime in!!
I believe that this bullet was fired in the air, and landed in the lake intact! I'm almost certain that there are rifiling marks around the base that show it was fired! (two are visible in pic)! Not sure of the caliber, but it's on top of a quarter for scale! Let me know your thoughts!👍👍
Newbie here,how do I connect the Garrett Z-Lynk to the Equinox 600? Doesn't the WT-1 box of the Z Lynk have to be physically connected to the 600 via adapter cord? I didn't see any such cord on the Minelab site.
I just bought this 600 havn't even used it yet but fter reading post from different sources, I think I'm going to hate this thing.
By Steve Herschbach
These are available at some dealers now. Headphone Adaptor Cable 3.5mm (1/8-inch) to 6.35mm (1/4-inch) Part No. 3011-0369 $40.00
Minelab Equinox 1/8" male waterproof connection to 1/4" female non-waterproof connection
I plan on wading a lot with the Equinox and this creates a waterproof connection to the detector itself. The cable is two feet long and reaches just about to my shoulder. Main gripe - the straight connection once it makes that 180 degree bend gives up some length. To prevent stress from pulling on this constantly the cable should be affixed to the detector itself so the cable does not get stressed repeatedly where it makes the bend.
This is a good solution for people who want to hunt in the water but do not need to put their head in the water, and so who do not need the waterproof headphones. The cable also mates directly to the WM08 module for those who wish to use it for that purpose.
Minelab Equinox Parts & Accessories Page
Do be aware there is a compatibility issue as regards the Equinox external speaker. If headphones and adapters are not wired correctly the speaker will keep going even with headphones plugged in. Here is the Minelab article on the subject. As far as I know this applies to the CTX 3030, GPZ 7000, Gold Monster 1000, and both Equinox models. I use Sun Ray Pro Gold (CTX version) headphones which are wired to work properly with the Minelab units.
Minelab headphone wiring diagram
Hi, just though this was worth sharing as it turned out so well. A number of things happened to bring this together - the biggest one being having just bought an Equinox my neighbours changing their curtains for blinds. I ended up with 3x6ft lengths of wood curtain pole.
I also (long story) smashed my right hand up some years ago in a bike crash - straight stem won't work for me. I had read the threads (various threads on straight vs S) and puzzled over the alloy pipe bending method. But then I already have a Mars universal shaft and took a closer look at this. After reading the thread on the Garrett gizmo that screws into the end of the stem so the arm cup can be moved along I got to thinking some more - I don't own a Garrett but am always intrigued to read what others are up to.
So the Mars universal shaft will come apart. Held by a holding screw and with some hard pushing and pulling the arm cup pole (I'll call it that) will release. I measured the length I needed, then by hand whittled the shape to Mars flat sided (not round). A tight fit and the holding screw back in place to hold. The strength of this part of the Mars hand grip (the bit under the hand grip) left me confident that it could cope with some pretty minimal stresses - like it would have to do anyway.
The curtain pole hand whittled at the arm cup end, then drilled through with a slightly under size drill bit. I didn't note the size, but it waggled freely in the Equinox upper stem hole for the arm cup. As I drilled it I waggled the drill to make it a little splayed out (as is the shape of the plastic fitting in the arm cup bits).
For the Equinox itself a similar blind hole, but on an angle (judged by eye) as per the angled shape of the Minelab underneath grip bit - and also drill waggled around to get the splayed out shape. Two lines of wood were whittled away to the correct diameter for the equinox and it lower grip to meet perfectly. It could be neatened up. I may spray it black.
Some things considered were the Equinox grip needed to be far enough away from the Mars grip to allow fingers of winter (thick) gloved hands - and also the coil cable and head phone cable. The Mars shaft can be made to shorten - and in effect smash into the back of the Equinox unit. I would just put a wrap of tape around the release lever. I won't ever release it - I don't need to I have a long detector bag - but I guess somebody could.
Weight for weight the wood pole is pretty light. I weighted the Minelab top piece of shaft, and my piece of wood was 14 grams heavier.
The next step (which I am waiting to arrive) is a proper Minelab Equinox lower stem end piece for the coil to go on, The Mars universal one is a bit narrow and this looks it will swap over fairly easily.