By Steve Herschbach
The whole depth with single frequency VLF detectors thing in my opinion has been nothing but a red herring for decades. I have read a thousand posts from people wanting VLF detectors with "more depth". Yet VLF detectors maxed out for usable depth by at least 1990 if not before. I have not used any single frequency VLF metal detector since 1990 that got more depth on coins than my old Compass Gold Scanner Pro.
The only real improvement we have seen and are still seeing is in the ability to find and correctly identify items that are masked by the ground itself or adjacent undesirable targets. There are an amazing number of targets in the ground at depths achievable by any decent detector made in the last 25 years, but that are being missed because they are improperly identified and ignored, or just completely masked and invisible. This is an area where the Minelab BBS and FBS detectors have excelled. They do not go deeper. They simply get more accurate discrimination at depths exceeding what most detectors achieve. Machines like the DEUS and a lot of other Euro machines are excelling not for the depth they get, but this ability to acquire and accurately identify targets at shallower depths that are missed by other detectors.
If we had a detector that could simply see through everything and accurately identify coins to 10" the ground would light up with countless missed finds. I get a chuckle out of all the deep coins I see people talk about on the forums when the best detectors made can't accurately identify a dime past 5-6 inches in my soil. Anything deeper just gets called ferrous. There is huge room for improvement in metal detectors still not by getting more depth, but by simply finding shallower targets that have been missed by other detectors made up until now.
How To Make Yourself Crazy!
U.S. Versus Euro Style Detectors
By Dances With Doves
They have the coil molds for a 9'' coil from the X-terra which is a waterproof coil and one that I never broke the ears off.I have all 3 of the 9'' concentric coils for the X-terra and liked the 18kz the best because it was good on gold.Maybe this machine is like the T2 and can't handle a concentric coil.They also have a 6'' coil mold which would be nice for small gold if this machine could use a concentric coil.Could a concentric make this machine even better in iron?
I own an Equinox 800. I've had it as one of the first ones in the United States and was the first one to find gold nuggets with it after Steve H who found his during testing. I now have 6, 11 and 15 inch coils. None of them has had a 'coil ear' problem.
When the Equinox came out with this particular coil design I was very disappointed and knew it was only a matter of time before coil ears would break. How did I know this? It is because I had coil ears break on my 17" CTX 3030 many years ago. At the time the ears broke I didn't even know what to call them. I tried to heat and melt them back into position. I tried every glue and epoxy and it would still re-break.
I was on another forum at the time and some suggest an individual who made a 'yoke' out of space age rubber. You see the problem with my ears was that they just did not flex enough to let me tighten the coil to keep it from flopping around. The ears broke laterally just above the coil.
The first yoke I received from the guy was not really very good. It was designed to be glued on to the broken coil after you smoothed off the old ears. A few months later the guy in New York sent me his next fix and it still works today. You attach that yoke to the detector with plastic ties. I haven't had any problems. Maybe some of you have fixed your coils the same way.
Coil ear bracing has been the subject of numerous posts so I thought I'd add my approach. Yes, I've used several different designs of stiffeners and sad to say, my coil ears still cracked and I was out of business until I could replace the coil. Fortunately, those coils were still under warranty. My concern was finding a way to prevent this recurring after the warranty expired.
The ultimate solution is, without doubt, for Minelab to field a redesigned coil ear that is a lot tougher than the current design. Failing that, the best approach in my opinion is to epoxy the stiffener to the coil making the stiffener, the coil and the ears one solid unit. Midalake has done this and as I see it, ensures a solid repair. My concern with this approach would be two fold. One, would that void whatever warranty remains and two, if the coil is sent to Minelab for replacement, there goes the stiffener.
I wanted a method by which I could attach the stiffener to the coil, be able to remove it if necessary and still use the coil cover.
mn90403 has done this as shown on another post within this forum by using zip ties. A workable approach but his method shows the zip ties over the coil cover so you couldn't remove the cover to clean the coil without cutting the ties. Having said that, his system will work as he intended.
I thought I'd share my approach which I've found to be simple yet effective in accomplishing my goals. The key is making the ear stiffener one with the coil so even if the ears snap, the stiffener holds the coil and shaft in place. I decided to use zip ties but in a somewhat different way than mn90403. I wanted the stiffener to be solidly attached and still be able to remove and replace the skid plate.
I threaded the zip tie through and around the stiffener and bare coil without the skid plate attached. I then installed the skid plate over the coil as before covering the zip ties. The skid plate remains in place, the stiffener is solidly attached to the coil and there is no modification to the coil which risks voiding the warranty and if I have to return the coil, I can save the stiffener. Bottom line; with this approach, even if the ears break, I'm still in business.
It works for me....
I had one coil that had a cable that was badly sun burnt and brittle. A bit of heat shrink and tape fixed it, but looked nasty. The Snake Skinz covered the mess nicely. Looks like a useful solution to a common problem. Probably will fit most coils, certaily good camo for repairs. All the best.