Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I seem to have lost my charging cable for my ML 80 Headphones for my Equinox 800. Do I just need a type C cable for that? I have searched high and low for the minelab cable OEM but impossible to find. Any after market ideas? Thanks so much!

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, timmyster said:

I seem to have lost my charging cable for my ML 80 Headphones for my Equinox 800. Do I just need a type C cable for that? I have searched high and low for the minelab cable OEM but impossible to find. Any after market ideas? Thanks so much!

No its a micro USB charging cable.  Any micro USB cable wired for power is fine.  They are fairly common.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By ☠ Cipher
      A week or so ago I had ordered a 3D printed battery pack for whites machines, obviously including my V3i. It uses 3 of the large lithium rechargeable 18650 batteries. I received it already even though it was shipped from Ukraine. It has a rugged, premium feel to it. This is my first 3D printed anything, and the quality surprised me. Definitely not a flimsy piece of kit. It fits in my V3i perfectly. Right now I’m using 2,500 to 3,000. I’ll let you know how these hold up and how higher MAH versions hold up once they arrive. I’m pretty excited about these in comparison to competing packs that top out at 3100 mah. It’s an inconvenience to not be able to charge the pack itself without removing the batteries, but an open holder also has its advantages. I may even attempt to make a charging cradle. The pack seems to only be available on eBay, with one remaining at this moment. I’m sure he will fire up the printer for another batch soon though. He likes to sell one batch before making more. 

    • By GB_Amateur
      Saw this on Ebay.  I had wondered if these expired battery packs could be converted.  There is also a NiMH version (orange label).  I don't know if that can be converted or not, but this person figured out how to do so with the NiCad version.

    • By BMaxx
      Can anyone shed some light on the batteries that minelab detectors use?
      1. Longevity
      2. Cost to replace
      3. Estimate if those particular batteries may go obsolete (as opposed to AA batteries)
    • By JRJR
      I am attempting to purchase a White's battery holder, P/N 802-7150. Canadian Treasure Seekers has one in stock, but due to supplier contracts can not ship to US.
      I hope to find a fellow hunter from Canada that is willing to purchase and send this battery tray to me. I will, of course, reimburse any cost for item and associated shipping costs.
      Please email me at joerahuba@yahoo.com
    • By Tony
      I opened up my TDIBH the other day for some fiddling around and checking out a few things. I powered up the detector with all of the guts and board opened up and had it hooked up to the 14.8v (4 x 18650 cells) battery pack. I had it going for just a few minutes when I gripped the circuit board as part of my “fiddling” around......well I dropped the board and swore a bit in response the burn I was expecting on my fingers. Well it turns out that on the opposite side of the board behind where the big capacitors sit is some sort of heat sink and I can tell you the heat from this spot was something else. The detector has and runs just perfect but the hotspot really surprised me. 
      I decided to hook up the 12v battery pack and let it run for a decent amount of time and it never got past a mild warm on the back of the board. That extra couple of volts is generating some serious extra heat.....bit like on the heat sink area of the CPU chip in your computer.
      I honestly don’t know if the detector can handle this extra heat long term but I’m not taking any chances. I’ve moved back to the 3 x 18650 battery pack which I knocked up when I first got the detector. There is a slight loss in depth but surprisingly not too much. I feel the performance of the 11.1v Lithium setup is maybe 1 to 2 inches behind the 14.8v “hot pack”.
      You can see in the photos the big caps on the detector and where the heat comes from. The other photo is my 11.1v pack which packs some punch and lasts much longer then the stock NiMH pack.

    • By Erik Oostra
      I've ordered the solar charging kit in the picture below.. I bought it because it claims to be able to charge lithium batteries, all the others I looked at said 'only for lead batteries'.. I'm no great expert on these things (you could say absolutely clueless) but I'm thinking about cutting the cord on the car charger and plugging it into the control box.. I've got another 25W panel without a control box but I'm a bit worried what might happen if I hook this straight onto the GPX battery.. I don't want to kill the bloody thing..
      My question is will a 20W panel hooked onto a control box charge my GPX 5000 battery without blowing it up? 
      Thank you very much for any advice on this one.. I plan to prospect areas well away from the power grid and the 12V charging plug in my old 4WD has stopped working since the car got flooded during a river crossing.. If this solar charger does work it'll be a huge bonus for people prospecting in areas far away from civilisation.. Maybe it'll be the game-changer we've all been waiting for 😁..
      I do realise this idea has probably been thought of a million times already, it's just that i can't find any related info on the net..

  • Create New...