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Tesoro Lobo Super Traq Wiring Diagram


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I have a Tesoro detector but somehow the wires that go from the circuit board to the batteries have came loose. I need to see a diagram on where the wires go please?

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If you get no solutions posted here, join and post at the Geotech forum. Lots of circuit board junkie there. :smile:

https://www.geotech1.com/forums/forum.php

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  • 4 weeks later...

 If you can post a photo of the side of the board with the traces, may be both sides have traces. I can tell you for certain if the photo is clear enough. I have a board for the old classic in kit form from across the Atlantic I am working on. There should be a Voltage regulator for the board, it has 3 large flat leads, the center lead is the negative terminal, also tied to the heat sink, which should lead to a wide trace that boarders the PCB. The black wire goes to the center lead. The red wire will go to the trace that leads to the end of a diode(opposite end from the white band if the diode is black) with no other traces going anywhere except to the diode unless there are wires going to the on/off switch. The diode will have a white band on one end which will lead to the regulator power in, the V reg has a heat sink tab with a hole. This part and the diode should be very close to each other. I have never seen a clear photo of an ST board but that shouldn't matter. The schematics for particular components sections are basically the same up to a point. The power supply design is a standard and the only thing that changes is placement and maybe a few extra components depending on how much polarity protection and filtering capacitors are included. The diode is there to keep from blowing out components in case the battery is connected backwards, which is usually pretty hard to do with polarized connections. It should be rated for at least 1 amp which is not much but that is in forward bias, reverse bias is much more.  However anything can be done if you try hard enough like putting the batteries in a holder backwards, it has been done before and touching the battery connector in reverse even for a split second will burn out the circuit parts. I know this gets to sounding like you may not know much about electronics from my end. I don't have any knowledge of how much you do know so I am trying to make this as clear as possible. Again, if you take a good close up photo of both sides of the circuit board it would be a big help but that may be a tough one with all the other wires on the board. You don't mention the model of the detector and schematics seem to be a hard thing to find most of the time for any of the detectors. If this helps, then your are set to repair your unit. 

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54 minutes ago, Lobo Exp said:

You don't mention the model of the detector

Title of thread - Tesoro Lobo SuperTRAQ

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14 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

Title of thread - Tesoro Lobo SuperTRAQ

Yeah my bad, I see that now, I just went by it too fast for it to register and as I was reading and responding, that part of the post went away on my screen.

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On 3/4/2021 at 9:06 PM, Lobo Exp said:

 If you can post a photo of the side of the board with the traces, may be both sides have traces. I can tell you for certain if the photo is clear enough. I have a board for the old classic in kit form from across the Atlantic I am working on. There should be a Voltage regulator for the board, it has 3 large flat leads, the center lead is the negative terminal, also tied to the heat sink, which should lead to a wide trace that boarders the PCB. The black wire goes to the center lead. The red wire will go to the trace that leads to the end of a diode(opposite end from the white band if the diode is black) with no other traces going anywhere except to the diode unless there are wires going to the on/off switch. The diode will have a white band on one end which will lead to the regulator power in, the V reg has a heat sink tab with a hole. This part and the diode should be very close to each other. I have never seen a clear photo of an ST board but that shouldn't matter. The schematics for particular components sections are basically the same up to a point. The power supply design is a standard and the only thing that changes is placement and maybe a few extra components depending on how much polarity protection and filtering capacitors are included. The diode is there to keep from blowing out components in case the battery is connected backwards, which is usually pretty hard to do with polarized connections. It should be rated for at least 1 amp which is not much but that is in forward bias, reverse bias is much more.  However anything can be done if you try hard enough like putting the batteries in a holder backwards, it has been done before and touching the battery connector in reverse even for a split second will burn out the circuit parts. I know this gets to sounding like you may not know much about electronics from my end. I don't have any knowledge of how much you do know so I am trying to make this as clear as possible. Again, if you take a good close up photo of both sides of the circuit board it would be a big help but that may be a tough one with all the other wires on the board. You don't mention the model of the detector and schematics seem to be a hard thing to find most of the time for any of the detectors. If this helps, then your are set to repair your unit. 

 

image.jpg

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Here I have a picture of the pcb. Your red wire goes to the ON-OFF switch (on my picture the green wire). There is a black wire on your picture from the switch to J2 on the pcb (on my pcb yellow). The missing battery-wire have to go to to J1?(can´t see it exactly) on your picture on the right from J2. But I think you have mixed positiv and negativ from the battery. I would connect battery negative to the switch and than to J2 and battery positiv to J1, but can´t check because I don´t have the Lobo ST anymore.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok  I just came back to this post and from looking at the photo, which is kind of hard to go by, you basically have 3 colors of wire, Red, Black and White, I'm going to go out on a limb and state this, most of the Black wires are going to go to a ground point. If you look at the wires going to the dials, these are what are variable voltage dividers for adjusting the detector circuitry. Black wires should go to a ground, red wires are going to go to various points of the board that supply the positive side of the power in the circuitry. The white wires go to the circuit points that are classified as signal returns, these are positive voltages of variable levels. There are 2 green wires, I see, one goes to the speaker and the other goes to the detector coil  connector.  I see that on the dial/ pot on the left has 2 levels, one has 3 wires and the other only 2, a red and a black. The red is a larger wire than the others and it looks like there is an issue with it at the terminal. I am going to say since the other wire next to it is black, there should be a black wire next to it. There is another larger wire than the others which is black, is connected to the board. Someone else mentioned they thought the colors are reversed and I am inclined to agree. The fact that there is a little noise when the batteries are connected bothers me. Circuits like this are very sensitive to the correct polarity, and it is very common and preferable to switch the negative side of the batteries on and off since by doing this, it is much less likely to cause component failure. You see, by switching the positive side, there are what is called transient voltage spikes which raise havoc with sensitive Integrated Circuits, the large black chips on the board. Reverse polarity can and will destroy these and other components on the board!  I hate to say it but it may be a moot point to try to revive this detector. By leaving the red or positive lead connected to the board at all times and switching the negative lead on and off there are no voltage spikes which could burn out the chips. I mentioned polarity protection in my last post and if there is some protection circuitry it may very well be a salvageable detector, only one way to find out really, remove the red and black wire and correct the connections then try it. However as I stated earlier since there is a noise, I am going to say there is not any protection circuitry, if there were, there should not be ANY noise at any time because the protection circuit would stop power from flowing completely into the circuit! I'm going to say the noise is a clicking sound briefly and then nothing. NOT good as that would be the sound heard from the speaker due to many shorted circuits within the circuitry, just the speaker clicking and then nothing as sound from a speaker is supposed to be alternating voltages. Again, I think you have a pretty much useless compilation of parts now. For what its worth, it is not un repairable, but the cost is going to be above and beyond the cost of a replacement, likely. Someone like myself could and would attempt to tackle such a task by using special meters and a power supply which would limit current draw fed to the board and remove various components along the path of power one at a time and determine which one is shorted and work through the schematic testing it. The real issue is with these SMD style circuits is they are a pain to work on. The parts are so small and can be damaged by heat trying to remove them, they may not be defective to start with but become defective before it is fixed. 

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