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15” Coil Cable Wiggle Test


bklein

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My problem is that it acts like it is set up for:

iron grunt (if horseshoe enabled)

target tone (mid tone)

falsing or black sand exact same mid tone

high tone = quarter, dime, occasional zinc penny

Anyone else but me get annoyed that the detector seems to remember the last tone and use it later for any falsing target?  

Also annoying is a constant tone on every sweep (one direction only though) 

I found a stainless ring by realizing the target tone was present and the same character as I moved around it.  But within a foot were same tone same amplitude false targets that changed character as I moved.  Given these are same tone doesn’t that mean that iron bias will not help as the detector is not differentiating them or I’d hear a different tone for each?

i suspect setting IB higher would just cut out the whole cluster and I’d only be finding isolated targets.

I first tried my wiggle test at home but EMI was too high. Went back to the original location later in the day and I suspect you guys are right - the coil wiggle, not cable wiggle causes the sound.  But I did see something very interesting: if I move the coil even a little in the sweep direction I get the sound - even if I move like 3’ from the car.  But if I change to up and down motion (in line with the DD center) it doesn’t sound until I get to maybe a foot and a half of the car - and not a varying tone, a firm normal target sound. Too difficult to capture video with my iphone. I’ll have to get my wife to video it.  Says to me in black sand we may have to move the coil real slow or we’ll get the falsing.  Add waves and all bets are off.

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27 minutes ago, bklein said:

But I did see something very interesting: if I move the coil even a little in the sweep direction I get the sound - even if I move like 3’ from the car.  But if I change to up and down motion (in line with the DD center) it doesn’t sound until I get to maybe a foot and a half of the car - and not a varying tone, a firm normal target sound.

The detector is going to signal when a metalic object crosses (enough) magnetic field lines.  I'm talking dynamic crossing, not just being (stationary) in the field lines.  As you move the coil parallel to the ground near your vehicle, the vehicle's metal traverses more field lines than when pumping the coil up and down.

I realize this vehicle effect has evolved from a possible problem to a mere curiosity, but (just IMO) I doubt many would find a video of the effect meaningful.  If I were you I'd spend my time well away from your vehicle and investigate how the detector is acting in an environment that is more conducive to actual hunting.

 

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13 hours ago, bklein said:

When I was hunting in the wet two weeks ago there was crackling in the audio when I moved the cable at the coil.  Didn’t have that this time, maybe because i was less in the water.

my coil cable is like you suggest. Might see so in the video.

Crackling is more likely a bad connection, could be at the coil or the control box. Also check the cable and look for any kinks or nicks.

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11 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

The detector is going to signal when a metalic object crosses (enough) magnetic field lines.  I'm talking dynamic crossing, not just being (stationary) in the field lines.  As you move the coil parallel to the ground near your vehicle, the vehicle's metal traverses more field lines than when pumping the coil up and down.

I realize this vehicle effect has evolved from a possible problem to a mere curiosity, but (just IMO) I doubt many would find a video of the effect meaningful.  If I were you I'd spend my time well away from your vehicle and investigate how the detector is acting in an environment that is more conducive to actual hunting.

 

I can only get to this beach every couple weeks usually.  I want to take some black sand home for my test garden someday. I was thinking being a distance from the car would sort of synthesize a black sand situation.

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9 hours ago, kac said:

Crackling is more likely a bad connection, could be at the coil or the control box. Also check the cable and look for any kinks or nicks.

I would agree but it didn’t seem  to occur this last trip. When it happened it was at the coil not the control pod.

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If your stock coil works fine and just the larger one crackles or is knock sensitive then there is a problem with the larger coil.

Putting the stock coil on and same thing happens then there is probably an issue on the coil connector or control box. I know it sounds logical, crazy right?

Past experience I had a cracked coil and a crack in the control box connector when I hung up on a log in the woods detecting.

Finding a crack in the coil is really difficult. Tapping the side it would false but not where the crack was. Took me a good 20 min looking the surface over to spot it. I was able to repair the coil but wasn't easy and the control box had to be sent back for repairs.

You said it doesn't happen when it's not mounted? Did you look for any cracks around the coil ears?

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3 hours ago, kac said:

You said it doesn't happen when it's not mounted? Did you look for any cracks around the coil ears?

Cracks or cracked off areas around coil ears would not cause falsing or sensitivity issues.   Dave

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