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Nothing too hard even for a rookie technician like me with not so High knowledge on boards whistles and bells...

I'm Just posting a couple pictures at the end of the work, but really (again) misappointed regard the gasket system in the TDI beachhunter.

To give some value to this post, I Just want to Say: please BE CAREFUL doing surgery on this control box, as the plastics are something to severely review to the death White's factory, now Garrett property.

Not only the gasket tunnel between the upper and the lower part of the box is been made to create gasket's cuts and leaks at the first attempt to re-assemble the box, but even a Nightmare to get the job done without the o-ring moving inside and over the PCB when 6 of the 8 screws are already there again....😭.

So this time I'm not so sure to have a leakproof TDI and I swear to want a detector.mod hard case for It.

I Just don't understand why not to create a flat against flat surface with again a flat gasket in between😒😒😒.

White's ...Come on!

(I don't want to advertise for free or without Steve to be ok with these words) so Sorry for complaining with a self exposed solution to this bad thing...

 

 

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Hello Skullgolddiver. You did a great job.👍

Just want to share one thing we did in the past when we serviced sewer laser. Those laser had a condensate outlet device. That only was a larger screw with a gasket ring. When the laser was serviced, closed and sealed we had to prove tightness. And for that we had one of those screws with an glued in bicycle valve. So a little pressure with a bicycle tire inflator (hand-operated) was given to the housing and then the whole laser was submerged. When bubbles came out you could see it was leaky and where it was, so you could seal again. If I had a detector for underwater usage I'd glue in a valve also. May be first add a srew joint which can be replaced if something happens to the valve. Doing this way I always had a little pressure to the detector housing that would prevent water flooding.

grafik.png.86f6b17d3d6374d052b74912f42c6a77.png

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34 minutes ago, locator said:

Hello Skullgolddiver. You did a great job.👍

Just want to share one thing we did in the past when we serviced sewer laser. Those laser had a condensate outlet device. That only was a larger screw with a gasket ring. When the laser was serviced, closed and sealed we had to prove tightness. And for that we had one of those screws with an glued in bicycle valve. So a little pressure with a bicycle tire inflator (hand-operated) was given to the housing and then the whole laser was submerged. When bubbles came out you could see it was leaky and where it was, so you could seal again. If I had a detector for underwater usage I'd glue in a valve also. May be first add a srew joint which can be replaced if something happens to the valve. Doing this way I always had a little pressure to the detector housing that would prevent water flooding.

grafik.png.86f6b17d3d6374d052b74912f42c6a77.png

Thanks for your suggestion!Really appreciated.

Unluckily I'm afraid to do other works on this machine as I yet noticed minor cracks around the screws Holes and if not properly handled this Will cause for sure a further damage when in use under real pressure.

Right now I'm chewing some coil's winding procedures and meanwhile I have to calm down my spirits due to the fragile patient I have on the surgery table.

After the add on of a voltmeter and a lithium battery and another coil, I'm back to the original setup with only less cable between control box and coil.

 

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7 hours ago, Skullgolddiver said:

I Just don't understand why not to create a flat against flat surface with again a flat gasket in between

O-rings (circular cross section gasket in a rectangular cross section groove) are engineered to handle pressure.  Each dimension and material composition is carefully chosen.  A flat gasket won't handle the pressure (literally and figuratively).

I don't think it's fair to White's to perform modifications which they never intended the end-user doing and then complain about difficulties encountered in the process.  Or am I misunderstanding what you are doing and the problems you are experiencing?

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58 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

Or am I misunderstanding what you are doing and the problems you are experiencing?

You're right...

I'm just afraid to ruin anything cause of an easy work for I can't consider to send at the factory the machine especially right now with all the delays.

Unluckily Is not merely a gasket problem, but even the plastics are prone to crack.

I'v used this detector for less than ten sessions and for sure I'll never see the payback time with It.

I Also take in account that I frequently pay the bills doing this and unlikely to an hobbyst, this is a bad ending for me.

 

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3 minutes ago, Skullgolddiver said:

...Even the plastics are prone to crack.

This is unfortunate and concerning, to say the least.  We live (and have lived for the past 30+ years) in a throw-away society where cost-cutting corners are the norm.  People (not singling out you) tend to blame the manufacturers and distributors but in fact the public brought this on themselves -- selectively buying the cheap products and putting the quality product manufacturers either out-of-business or scrambling to cheapen their own products to stay competitive.  It's not a complete loss as some companies (including some metal detector manufacturers) succeed in lowering the price while maintaining the quality.  But it's a tough task.

It's even worse when a product's manufacturer is no longer in business (e.g. White's).

I like to tinker also, so I understand your desire and actions to improve your TDI/BH.  But it's always a bit of a risk and I know I may end up with a non-functioning piece of junk. 

I wish you success as you go forward.

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5 hours ago, Skullgolddiver said:

Thanks for your suggestion!Really appreciated.

Unluckily I'm afraid to do other works on this machine as I yet noticed minor cracks around the screws Holes and if not properly handled this Will cause for sure a further damage when in use under real pressure.

Right now I'm chewing some coil's winding procedures and meanwhile I have to calm down my spirits due to the fragile patient I have on the surgery table.

After the add on of a voltmeter and a lithium battery and another coil, I'm back to the original setup with only less cable between control box and coil.

 

I think this is about the plastic quality and the process how it is manufactured. I had the same issues with the plastic housing of the meter pod of my VX3 and the plastic parts of my SpectraSound headphones and the MXT display pod. After some failings to glue these plastics I came across the Epoxy Structural Adhesive >>Scotch Weld DP 410<<. That really did the job and gave new strength to the plastic parts. Right now I have this on all my cracked White's detector plastic parts.

grafik.png.e34d6af139d276a925939bf7ac68165c.png

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Locator:  Thank you for your helpful suggestion.  My 24k is new (about 6 months old) so I do not have any plastic crack issues.  However, it is nice to know that such products are available should I need them in the future.  It is nice to have this information for reference.  Thanks for sharing. 

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