Jump to content

Excalibur 1000 Advice


Recommended Posts

Hey I'm looking for some advice from excalibur owners on how to proceed here. 

I picked this up for $150, the knobs and lower shaft were broken. I ordered and installed anderson knobs which seem like they are going to work great.  The dive shaft is on it right now but I'll get a new shaft here soon.

The most obvious fix I need help with is the wires. 

The battery seems to be working fine for now, we will see once I get out on the beach. 

All of the connections look in good shape too.  

Let me know what yall think I should do to get this puppy back up to par.

 

Thanks

20210616_210529.jpg

20210616_210600.jpg

20210616_210638.jpg

20210616_210625.jpg

20210616_210648.jpg

20210616_210659.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Oh my! 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Not to be negative...........I would say it needs a complete over haul. 

What is your skill level?

If you send it into the service center your looking at 650.oo plus to fix.

Fixing it yourself, 

........ if you have never had one apart, will be a challenge. Me setting here thinking about

making you a parts list is over whelming. 😬  The reason I say that is because it is a water machine 

And   "All"   has to be perfect for its longevity. So what kind of hunting do you have planned?

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A coil I just fixed.. Something  you will have to do also for those excalibur coils are impossible to obtain for they no longer sell them. Only way you can get one is maybe used or send your machine in for Minelab to install.

20210617_015739.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be a good Idea to make this the "How to repair a Excalibur" Post on Steve's forum. So I can refer all who ask in the future, since I no longer do this, other then my own machines. I will be adding to it for sometime.

 

Coil Cable and repair

Cable is from McMaster Carr.. #9204K12    4 lead.. 20/4..continuous flex.. .25 dia.

OBN0051 (2).jpg

cable for coil repair.jpg

 

Nie.jpg

OBN0050.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

Not to be negative...........I would say it needs a complete over haul. 

I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

What is your skill level?

Intermediate.  I have some experience soldering, I'm comfortable opening the machine up and putting it back together.

If you send it into the service center your looking at 650.oo plus to fix.

Do you think its necessary? I'm just looking to get the wires covered back up and get in the water.

Fixing it yourself, 

yes please!

........ if you have never had one apart, will be a challenge. Me setting here thinking about

I was able to make a pair of headphones for my equinox by following your videos. Thank you for posting them.

making you a parts list is over whelming. 😬  The reason I say that is because it is a water machine 

What parts off the top of your head? 

And   "All"   has to be perfect for its longevity. So what kind of hunting do you have planned?

I plan to be hunting in swfl and Miami with this machine. Mostly gulf coast though. Wading neck deep.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

Might be a good Idea to make this the "How to repair a Excalibur" Post on Steve's forum. So I can refer all who ask in the future, since I no longer do this, other then my own machines. I will be adding to it for sometime.

 

Coil Cable and repair

Cable is from McMaster Carr.. #9204K12    4 lead.. 20/4..continuous flex.. .25 dia.

OBN0051 (2).jpg

cable for coil repair.jpg

 

Nie.jpg

OBN0050.jpg

This may be a stupid question but is it possible to just cut the wires half way up, slip on a shrink tube, splice the wires back and slide the shrink tube up the wire instead of replacing the whole cable? 

I'd like to do as little as possible to get it ready for the water, but I'm worried that I may overlook something like a seal that causes the machine to flood. 

Edit: I just found your top o-ring inspection video. Going to do that now! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never a stupid question when it comes to trying. Years ago, I used the super seal shrink tubing but all it got me was a few months of hunting then it caused other issues. And funny, I got the same question you asked when the minelab detector center opened in PA. They were just getting set up and would ask different questions on things like this, can we just cover the wires? 

It is possible to seal the wires at both leak point, the coil and the endcap, but in time water will slowly weep thru the epoxy..... so what is needed is a Heyco fitting, (Pigtail -strain relief) then the epoxy. Plus the extra (sealed) protection of the wires not being exposed to water. You can take short cuts but in the end it will cost you the machine, saltwater is deadly to electronics, fresh you can get away with some leakage but you can't let it continue for it will do the same. 

That battery Ikelite fitting is a perfect example.. you can get away with it for a while but you start submerging it and in a few months water will work its way into the battery. There are no short cuts.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went down this road when I was a complete newbie and the Excalibar was my first detector. I thought I could save a bunch of money but in the end the amount of repairs that had to be done multiple times cost me the same as if I would have just bought new.  Sorry to tell you that, but maybe it will save you the time and frustrations so you can just get out to the joys of detecting.  
 

But if you’re looking for a project go for it! Just be aware that you’re probably gonna spend more time fixing your machine and wondering if it’s working properly versus getting out and detecting.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Flydog said:

OK, my turn for a stupid question.  Why did you choose un-shielded vs shielded? No option to ground the shield at the control box end?

That's a fair question . Simple, stock is not shielded so I went with as close as I could to it .. 0.25 dia was important also. The Excalibur is very stable in saltwater so not much need, unless the water is rough as Bricks....but I am older and do choice the calmer days so no problems.  EMI,... for all of my hunting the machine is submerged, never a issue. 

One could go with a shielded cable if they wanted, just run the shielding thru the heyco to endcap, thru the epoxy and ground it to the board. Also the heyco fitting that is used, 3240? is limited to the size of 0.26. 

Something I have talked about, the excalibur has SS knob shafts (Pictured) , I was thinking of changing them out using some type of plastic, which I can make since I have a lathe.  I've tried different shielding over the years, even to the control pod.. No benefit as far as I could see.

Forgot this, Now for a super silent hunting in rough waters.... Years ago I ran the control pod in my drysuit. Removing the pod from the saltwater... Crystal Clear audio

...

DSC_6979.jpg

SNAG-0004 (4).jpg

Replacing Dryrot top o-ring.jpg

DSC_9449.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...