Excalibur 1000 Advice

[Joe Beechnut OBN]

Sorry I just seen this return post. It looks good except the coil to endcap,  I have a extra double endcap I can send for free to replace the one.. If you need. The coil to endcap cable looks dangerous, but it could be a bad picture....

Also.......for sure fill the tub, set the detector in the water.. submerged , turned on the machine, put the head phones on and listen for at least a hour. I'm guessing you will get EMI which will make it hard but listen for the machine to act crazy, like falsing or stopping. Its going to be hard in the house, so If you do take it out in the real world......... I would go slow once under. Any abnormal falsing, or it acting stupid ..get it out of the water ..pull the head phone endcap and check for water. I might recommend having some DeoxIT D5 around just incase you need to clean the board fast. 

My opinion, change that coil fitting out this winter or sooner. Other then that I think you did a great job.. You will find the more you work on it the easier it comes as you learn.

[stevejhgla]

3 minutes ago, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

Sorry I just seen this return post. It looks good except the coil to endcap,  I have a extra double endcap I can send for free to replace the one.. If you need. The coil to endcap cable looks dangerous, but it could be a bad picture....

Also.......for sure fill the tub, set the detector in the water.. submerged , turned on the machine, put the head phones on and listen for at least a hour. I'm guessing you will get EMI which will make it hard but listen for the machine to act crazy, like falsing or stopping. Its going to be hard in the house, so If you do take it out in the real world......... I would go slow once under. Any abnormal falsing, or it acting stupid ..get it out of the water ..pull the head phone endcap and check for water. I might recommend having some DeoxIT D5 around just incase you need to clean the board fast. 

My opinion, change that coil fitting out this winter or sooner. Other then that I think you did a great job.. You will find the more you work on it the easier it comes as you learn.

Found out quickly that my tub is cast iron 😄 so I took it out for a real world test, it leaked from that end cap 😑. Maybe half a tea spoon of water.  I immediately got out of the water and came home to clean it out.  

When I got home I took the board out and inspected it.  There didn't seem to be any damage to the board so I resoldered it inside and this is how it came out.  

I ran out of the curly wire protector but I was able to get the wire through the endcap and seal it with resin from the inside.  

However it is very unstable now, almost like the electricity isn't passing through the wires smoothly.  Constantly changing the tones, maybe holding one tone for 5 seconds and then changing to another.

I'm not mad at it, I like the learning curve but you're right it definitely is getting easier the more I tinker with it. 

 

[Joe Beechnut OBN]

Get the DeoxIT D5, spray the board and the Potentiometers. If you look into the third board down you can see a small opening in the pots.. spray the deoxit in these slots, I give them two quick shots. Let it dry for 24 hours then try..  

[stevejhgla]

Can't seem to find DeoxIT D5 at any nearby stores with a quick search but what I'm looking for is an electrical parts cleaner right? 

[Joe Beechnut OBN]

Yes a cleaner but I swear by this stuff.. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=asc_df_B00006LVEU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198057017270&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2205290726216628905&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007872&hvtargid=pla-382003658380&psc=1

[stevejhgla]

Thanks I'll get back you to once I get it done. 

[tvr]

The cleaner I've used with good results is CRC 5101 QD Electronic Cleaner ... that and Joe's recommended one are good choices for electronics cleaners. 

[Elbert]

OBN -- I sent you a PM today. 

El

[bklein]

I’m not really understanding the purpose of the cut off portion screwed on to the base coil connection (top left photo).  It says it is so the resin locks in to it but it would do that without it too. It seems the technique is to add a stress relief base offset from the original. The piece that sticks out though has me questioning though - it doesn’t seem to have anything for the resin to hold on to. I think there used to be your videos on this whole process but I can’t find them anymore. I guess there isn’t something that would screw to the coil base and contain the cable connections. Seems wrong thread on everything.
I was going to use a pill bottle for the plastic cylinder but now worry that it may be polypropylene and not bond to the coil housing or epoxy resin - probably better to find something else eh?

[Joe Beechnut OBN]

On 12/17/2022 at 8:52 PM, bklein said:

 

I’m not really understanding the purpose of the cut off portion screwed on to the base coil connection (top left photo).  It says it is so the resin locks in to it but it would do that without it too. It seems the technique is to add a stress relief base offset from the original. The piece that sticks out though has me questioning though - it doesn’t seem to have anything for the resin to hold on to. I think there used to be your videos on this whole process but I can’t find them anymore. I guess there isn’t something that would screw to the coil base and contain the cable connections. Seems wrong thread on everything.
I was going to use a pill bottle for the plastic cylinder but now worry that it may be polypropylene and not bond to the coil housing or epoxy resin - probably better to find something else eh?

RED.. The Portion cut off is just added strength since it is downward facing edge which locks all in better. After 50 plus coils repaired over the years, never a fail and many are still in use after 8 years. 

No video by me, and I'm sure I was the first to do this repair which I posted over on Findmall many years ago. Once I found the cable all was a go..And yes, the new Heyco 3237 is offset from the original boss.

Orange..... Years ago I was working on a kit for the cable repair but seen issues with the idea, If the repaired coil cable had leaked already (which some may not be aware of) then the fix would be a waste. My idea was using a 19mm wide 30mm long polypropylene Rod, drilled and threaded on one side.. DPG 7 x 20 ...other side....DPG 9 x 18,  (the 9 x 18 hole is 15.2mm and is drilled 22mm into the rod, larger hole) (the 9 x 18 is drilled 8mm deep) The DPG 7 x 20 would thread right to the coil where the boss of the original wire came out once all the wires are solder and joints covered. There would be a large enough area to seal the wires with a (pour in) 2 part slow dry epoxy, than a 3240 (WOT coil size) Heyco fitting would be screwed into the poly fitting before the epoxy dried. 

 

 

Once the epoxy is set I think you could use anything, I have to look but I think I used pill bottles for sealing the taillite connection on my boat trailer.. after 4 years all is still fine...For the coils I did use. 1 7/8 ID by 2 OD 1/16 wall, clear polycarbon tube, it heats up and will bend if needed. I made a couple 8 hour batteries using polycarbon tube..worked great, for the AQ..

 

Green....It has threads which locks it in..