Announcing The New Makro Racer 2!

[Steve Herschbach]

I think the ferrous as negative numbers and non-ferrous as positive make the most intuitive sense and reflects the underlying reality better. It still changes nothing however. No White's machine puts all ferrous firmly as negative numbers and all non-ferrous as positive numbers. Depending on the machine non-ferrous drifts anywhere from 10 to 20 points into the negative numbers on White's units.

For instance here is the White's M6 meter. In theory any negative number is iron. But the guide label clearly shows non-ferrous runs well into the negative numbers. So that -6 iron reading on screen? Sorry, no. That is -6 probably iron but possibly non-ferrous, either very small item, or larger item at edge of detection depth, both of which can give the ferrous reading indicated. Simply removing an inch or two of soil could turn that into a non-ferrous reading. That is the point I am making - the fixed point manufacturers are giving you is actually an overlap zone and what that factory preset point actually is varies not only by brand but by model and can vary slightly within models. Changing the coil alone changes the values.

White's could have set zero 10 points lower. Now you will find non-ferrous targets you missed before. BUT you will dig more ferrous items also. They could go 20 points lower, and you will pick up even a few more non-ferrous items, but pay a penalty digging a whole lot more ferrous stuff.

People hate digging junk, so manufacturers almost always set the ferrous / non-ferrous break point to be conservative and eliminate nearly all ferrous responses. If you trust that and go with what they set for you - you are missing good targets a more aggressive detectorist will find later.

The numbers do not matter. All that matters is having operational capability to adjust and set the range yourself. The simplest system ever devised is the MXT single turn knob in relic mode. Tweak the break point tone up or down to suit and NEVER use the same setting for all situations. It needs to be varied slightly for each hunting scenario. The simple rule - if you are not digging enough ferrous to be annoying, lower the setting. If too much ferrous is killing you, increase the setting. But lower is always better if you can stand it. The more mineralized the ground, the more important this is.

Most people hunt by ear anyway. Again, the MXT just tweak a knob up or down to decide where the break between low tone (ferrous) and high tone (non-ferrous) is as simple and effective as it gets. Set right and just dig high tones, ignore low tone - who cares what the numbers are?

Same with Racer 2 - set the tone break area appropriately, and hunt by ear.

[tvanwho]

Just was wondering if the Racer 2 is any good in the goldfields or is intended more for coins and relics only?

-Tom

[auminesweeper]

Steve you are spot on there, the presence of Iron or Iron mineralized soil will drag down the VDI's, A quarter reading of +85 +/- if a nail is very close to it The VDI for the coin can and does drop down to as low as +16 maybe more,

There is a little trick that will allow you to unmask Items with the MXT because it has Rotary controls Where you might use the Relic mode for Prospecting We ALL tend to turn the Disc right down and IE- use a rusty 2" nail and then turn up the Disc until the nail makes a Low tone which sets the Disc very close to "2" But I have found that once you do that you can then turn it down to about 1.8 which sets the Disc right on the Edge and allows the Detector to unmask coins and other targets, Doing this the detector will signal on the coin if you place a Nail on the coin regardless of which direction the nail is pointing and it will signal on the Coin 98 times out of a hundred.

This is all due to the Type of controls it has, Because depending which way you are turning the Controls it appears they have a microscopic overlap where the knobs over compensate hence why you can back it off to 1.9 to 1.8 and unmask things right on the edge of discrimination and it also helps with finding hammered coins due to their low conductivity,

As we pointed out in recent posts about push button machines having pre set disc levels because each press moves the disc in set amounts, But Rotary controls allow a person to work within those pre sets.,

hope that helps

john,

 

[Steve Herschbach]

Tom, all decent mid frequency detectors can be used for any detecting task. In marketing intent the Racer 2 is a classic do it all machine which to my way of thinking means a jack of all trades and a master of none. So sure, you can use it for gold prospecting just like a couple dozen other $700 do-it-all detectors.

In your case you have a do-it-all MXT. You can prospect for gold with it if you like. Or you could get a one of a dozen other 13 kHz - 15 kHz do-it-all machines and also do about as well. Would any be substantially better than the MXT? Probably not. Going to a 19 kHz unit might get you a miniscule edge on smaller non-ferrous, but you will also give up a miniscule edge on high conductive targets.

Anyone thinking they are going to buy a VLF mid frequency detector and thinking it is going to be magically better than anything that has been available for over a decade is likely to be disappointed. You can get a lighter unit, or one that sounds different, or is waterproof, etc. but when it comes to performance mid frequency VLF has been beat to death. About all we are seeing in recent years is machines that offer those who like wading into thick trash some better target separation characteristics, but that is about it.

For me personally the Racer 2 is a fun do it all machine and with a lot of great features but it still is Just Another Mid Frequency Metal Detector.

[auminesweeper]

What sets the Racer series' apart is they have all the fittings taken from the best of the best and they all come in the one package, with all that and an incredible Display and the choice of coils makes them the first choice for those in the market for a person who does not already own a VLF, I must admit the Gold Racer has really got my attention because it has the most wonderful tone in the Disc mode, although in the AM mode it sounds like my GMT like a Hornet on Crack, either way this company has a huge future ahead of them as long as they keep them selves involved with the public, I think they are a remarkable Company,

john 

[tvanwho]

Thanks Steve,

But both my elbows are in pain this year and I have yet to even swing a detector yet. I am guessing its arthritis  so need lighter weight detectors. Just was told I have arthritis in my lower lumbar back , no wonder it hurts to drive very far to gold country last few years. The joys of getting old....

-Tom

[Jackpine]

"Blendy bleedy" audio is fine but the Racer 2 never showed me any super ability to pick out targets in iron that the older design of the T2 could as well.  After 20 or so hours of use and a few direct comparisons it became very apparent to me.  There is a fair bit of nuance in the gated audio of the T2, It is not just off/on thing.

1+ mode works very well for me because the of the modulated audio, the softer hits still stand out to my old ears.  Can't hear that in the constant blendy bleedy audio.

Tom

[auminesweeper]

Steve I read somewhere that the Racer(s) and the Relic do not hold your last settings to memory once they are switched off, Is that true or just speculation by the unknowing ?

Thanks.

[Steve Herschbach]

Racer does not retain settings, Racer 2 does save independent settings in each mode.

[auminesweeper]

Thanks Steve, my machines don't save them either So I don't see this as anything other than Normal,

J