Jump to content

How To Replace Equinox Battery

Recommended Posts

A lot of people fretted over this battery replacement. The concerns of water ingress and such if anyone other than Minelab replaces it.

The replacement of the battery is common sense, and no need to send it in to minelab for a battery swap. I'm a little surprised there isn't some kind of plug between the shaft and pod leading to the battery to fill that space. Having such a thing would add even more piece of mind and surely prevent water ingress even more. Seems they used a very miniscule amount of silicone grease too.

Anyways, battery replacement seems simple and straightforward. I wonder when they are going to make the batteries more readily available?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

replaced mine just last week. Bought the battery from Crawfords in the UK. the battery was not as easy to remove as the video indicates but I did eventually free it. All replaced and working fine now

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Nig the Dig said:

replaced mine just last week. Bought the battery from Crawfords in the UK. the battery was not as easy to remove as the video indicates but I did eventually free it. All replaced and working fine now

Perhaps that is the reason for the silicone grease. If there wasn't enough installed on the battery at manufacture it would be harder to remove I'd think. That grease serves 2 purposes, sealing and lubrication. Did you take notice of how much grease was present after you removed the battery?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No mention of the [ have to guess silicone grease ] , always a good idea for links to battery , maybe even a small tube of grease ?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to do scuba repair work. It will be food grade silicone grease, no petroleum base, and too much is not good. You want just enough to “wet” the orings.

Previous thread on subject (2019)

From https://parts.minelab.com/category-s/270.htm

EQUINOX Battery Replacement

Replace the EQUINOX Series internal Li-Ion battery. 

Due to the waterproof design of EQUINOX Series detectors it is strongly recommended you read all instructions prior to commencing the battery replacement.

A video demonstrating the replacement process can be found on the Minelab YouTube Channel at this link: EQUIONX Battery Replacement Video

All Minelab Authorised Service Centres can perform the internal battery replacement if you prefer to have the work performed without possibility of voiding your Control Panel warranty. 

The EQUINOX internal Li ion Battery has a warranty period of 6 months from original date of detector purchase.


  • Detector: EQUINOX Series
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time Required: 10 mins
  • Hazards: Water Ingress


  • Hex Driver 3mm (H3)
  • Hex Driver 2mm (H2)
  • Needle Nose Pliers



Step 1

Access the battery compartment


Step 2

Remove the battery


Step 3

Prepare new battery for installation


Step 4

Replacement battery installation


Step 5




  • Like 5
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve, do you see anything an owner could do to further seal the battery area as a source of water ingress?

Nothing radical, just a simple extra layer of protection or something similar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the bung came out no problem but the battery itself was firmly wedged. Probably the foam on the side. also , there is another square of foam provided but the instructions do not say anything about removing the foam from the bung. might be obvious but there is plenty of space for an additional piece of foam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, RobNC said:

Steve, do you see anything an owner could do to further seal the battery area as a source of water ingress?

Nothing radical, just a simple extra layer of protection or something similar?

I’ve not kept up on the issue, and do not know if it has ever been determined exactly where the leakage issue originates from. A single problem, or a collection of related failures? It seems very much luck of the draw, some heavy users having no issues, others multiple failures.

So answer is no, I’ve not really thought about it much from a modifications standpoint. My recommended solution to serious water hunters is to A. Have a backup unit and B. Only use an under warranty unit in the water (sell used before warranty expires, use money to get a new unit with three year warranty). It’s relatively cheap insurance, since the warranty is three years. Also ask yourself if you really need an 800 for in water use, as a 600 will likely do the job as well for most people. This makes the sell used and buy again scenario even more palatable.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gore vent intro!

The little white spot on the battery door!

   If a permanent seal is added that defeats the Gore vent, than not only would that probably void the  warranty, but also, some other spot on the Pod would most likely fail due to pressure inequalities! 

   Also, if the Gore vent is loose, or compromised, water will take the easiest route to enter! 👍👍





  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

    • By sturt
      Hi all. I use a GPZ 7000 at the moment. I will be looking at the new 6000 early in the new year. I spoke to a supplier today asking if the mains charger for the 7000 is compatible with battery for the 6000. WAS TOLD NO, as the 7000 mains power transformer supplied is 18 volt not 12 volt.
      Looking at both systems firstly the 7000 series.   Tansformer   input 240 volt- 0.7 amp    output  output 18 volt- 1.67 amp
                                                                                        Goes to BC 10 cradle   input 11-30 volt  23w max   output  8.4 volt- 2 amp AND  5 volt- 0.67 amp
                                                                                        The battery states 7.2 volt  total capacity 72Wh
      Now the GPX 6000                                                 Transformer  input 240 volt- .5 amp Max   output  12 volt- 10 amp
                                                                                       Trans plugs directly into battery   input 12 volt- 1.0 amp?  output 7.2 volt- 42Wh
      What this tells me is Minelab have produced a new detector which uses the same voltage to run as the 7000 but the charging components are not compatible between the models. Should be.
      The new 6000 uses a reduced capacity battery (weight issue?)which  does not last the full day, then you need a spare which you cant charge with mains power until the original is fully charged in about 5/6 hours. After a big day in the field I cant stay awake to swap the batteries so I need another transformer as well?
      I am told by the Dealer though you could use the two car power leads as they are connected to a 12 volt car battery. Cheers sturt
    • By Mick93
      We do like Steve,  wife sold her nox 800 just before 3 years and ordered her new one. Showed up today and she was all excited ,put it together, charged up ready to try it out. Well the on/off switch wouldn't work!  She was a little disappointed but Minelab said send it in, so off it went !
    • By Jeff McClendon
      I have been suffering from plantar fasciitis and torn ligaments in my left ankle for about 6 months. The plantar fasciitis has cleared up on its own. The torn ligaments have not yet healed so hunting with a dig it all approach just hasn't been possible since last March. Walking is iffy enough, but lots of getting up and down is very painful. So, I have had to limit myself to shorter outings and lots of cherry picking.
      I tried an experiment using the F2 iron bias feature during my recovery for some of the parks I hunt that have high iron mineralization. I used Park 1 and Park 2 with F2=4 and just concentrated on obvious no brainer signals. Deep or shallow didn't concern me, just the quality of the response. I hunted with both zero discrimination and with half of the iron range rejected = -9 to -6. My target recovery of deeper low to mid conductive targets pretty much ceased to exist during this time.......deeper silver jewelry and coins along with any depth of higher conductive US modern coins (wheats, copper memorials, clad dimes and quarters, Kennedy halves and modern "gold" President and Sacajawea dollars) was seemingly not effected.
      Today, I hunted an exact area that I had hunted a month ago with those settings except that I hunted with F2=0 and dug every target that sounded good. I had already cleared out the higher conductive clad so none was found. I tested every low to mid conductor target from +6 to +22 (the gold and small silver jewelry range) that sounded decent using F2=0, and then switched to F2=4 and F2=9 before I dug the targets. All of these targets which were clear and obvious targets using F2=0 were beyond the range of my handheld FTP Tek Point pinpointer that was set on maximum which usually reaches coin sized targets down to 3.5 to 4" in this park. All of the targets in the photo except for the first two modern pull-tabs (bright silver and red surface finds) were recovered at deeper than 4". Some were as much as 8". They all sounded very good with repeatable signals in all four swing directions (+), and had dig me gold range numbers using F2=0. Using F2=4, all of these targets were iffy at best and the deeper ones sounded mostly like iron. Using F2=9, all of these targets were mostly iron with just a hint of low to mid conductor tones and corresponding numbers. 
      It is no wonder that I previously walked right over these targets since I had limited myself to digging only excellent sounding targets due to my injury. Even if I wasn't injured, I am not sure that I would have dug these using F2=4. No way using F2=9.
      Two of the nickels are fairly old for the Denver area, a 1949 and a 1960. Both were 8" deep and sounded very good using F2=0. The big stainless steel ring (+8) and the Avon gold plated junker (+14) were 6" deep and sounded fantastic with F2=0. The two .925 small silver jewelry items (+22) sounded great using F2=0 and were 5" deep.
      So, in higher iron mineralization, are my results an outlier or is using F2 iron bias above zero just too agressive on low and mid conductor non-ferrous targets? Comments, disagreements and Pooh Poohing are welcome.

    • By Dan(NM)
      I hunt really trashy parks and hardly ever go after nickels because my time is limited.  I'm going to notch in 12-13 on my next hunt due to amount of wheats and silver I've been taking out of 2 places I've hit this past month. Have you found the Nox the hit nickels in this range at depth, I'm talking 7-9" depth, that's where most of the keepers are being found, thanks.
    • By nwdetectorist
      Blank Sheet for Recording Custom Settings for my Nox 800

      OK, Ok; back in the day of my XLT Spectrum...
      ...I had a notebook full of custom settings for my records.

      Now I can convert (scan and save as) to Word Document or Adobe Acrobat to save and carry with my Smart Phone.

      Problem is, I cannot seem to find a sheet to copy online.
      I know I could create my own, but...

      Started a list to see if I have the settings in the right order.
      Does anyone have suggestions and/or corrections for the following list.
      OK; what order for the Equinox Settings Sheet???
      1. What preset program to start with
      2. How many tones; 2, 5, 50
      3. Ground balance setting and/or auto balance
      4. Setup accept/reject notches for your hunt site or hunt style
      5. Select Volume for each tone region
      6. Select Tone Pitch for each tone region
      7. Set tone break, preferably at 1
      8. Set recovery speed for conditions or accept default
      9. Run Noise Cancel
      10. etc. etc. etc.
      what am I forgetting
    • By Skookum
      I had something strange happen, today. I had my GPX 6000 battery fully charged and fresh off the charger.  It had completed its charge cycle and then trickle charged overnight.  I popped it in the detector and started detecting. Within five minutes the battery meter dropped from three bars to two bars.  If I turned off the detector and let it sit for a 5-10 minutes and then turned it back on, it would go back up to three bars for a short period of time before then going back to two bars. Has anyone else noticed this with theirs?
  • Create New...