*new* Carbon-fiber Shafts Available For Gold Monster 1000 (along With Lower Rods For GPX 4500/4800/5000/6000, And Custom Excalibur Shafts)

[steveg]

Hey all!  I just wanted to let everyone know that I now offer complete, carbon-fiber shafts (which can also be counterweighted if you desire) for the Gold Monster 1000.  I'll attach a picture of a completed one, assembled with the unit, below. 

Additionally, I also have begun offering lower rods for the GPX 4500/4800/5000, and now the 6000 (and of course lower rods for the CTX 3030, and complete shafts for the Equinox).

Finally, I also offer custom shafts for the Excalibur series, also with a couple of pictures, below.

Thanks all!

[Steve Herschbach]

Finally, the shaft the Monster should have come with! Yes, please post photos fully extended, and fully collapsed, with measurements.

[steveg]

Steve --

Certainly!  Gold Monster shaft -- fully extended, approx. 58"; fully collapsed, approx. 36".  Those measurements apply to the standard two-piece shaft; custom three-piece "travel shaft" designs are also available, for a more compact footprint when packing.

100% 3K Carbon Fiber, injection molded clamp-type cam lock, and injection-molded lower rod "clevis/head."

Steve

 

 

[steveg]

Hey all -- just an update.  Thanks to Detector Prospector member "schoolofhardNox," who sent me a GPX 5000 shaft, I'm now looking to produce a COMPLETE GPX 5000 shaft -- upper AND lower.  I am prototyping one for him, and assuming it passes his testing, I'll be ordering the appropriate tubes to begin offering this. 

For those of you more familiar with GPX machines than I am, I assume the same upper shaft would fit the 4500/4800?  I know the lowers are the same...

Thanks!

Steve

[Chase Goldman]

Steve, I know the 4800 and 5000 uppers are the same and 99.9% sure the 4500 is the same as the 4800/5000.

One of the keys is making sure you can enable the GPX pinpointer trigger/swing-support handle to fasten and lock securely onto the shaft.  It tends to drift and rotate radially around the shaft with radial torque unless you overtighten the fastener which then puts undue stress on the fastening hardware. I can never seem to get it tight enough without fear I am overstepping the fastener.  Seems to be a friction issue as the trigger handle clamp is designed to slide easily up and downside the shaft when loosened to adjust for your forearm length.  That slipperyness also enables it to slide radially if you force it, even when clamped.  Concerned how it will fare on polished CF.  It could also just be an isolated issue with my rig.  

[steveg]

Chase --

Thanks for the info on the 4500 and 4800.

I do NOT think it is "just" yours.  The person who sent me the 5000 shaft -- schoolofhardNox -- told me of the very same issue.  He told me that the shafts MUST be large enough in diameter so that you can get the screws tight enough, but NOT so tight that you crack the plastic handle, trying to over-tighten the screws.  I took careful measurements of the shaft he sent me, so that will take care of THAT issue, but yes -- there's the "friction" thing.  HOWEVER, I use that same Minelab handle (albeit the "without the button" model) when I build my Excalibur shafts, and no customers have mentioned any issues with "slip" of the handle.  While plastic is not the BEST material in terms of generating friction, the cam locks I use function on the same principle -- friction between plastic and carbon-fiber tube -- to secure the shaft sections in place, and it does so very nicely.  NOW -- I realize that you can adjust the cam lock to basically whatever tension you desire, and you don't have to fear breakage, like you do trying to tighten that handle via the fasteners.  BUT -- I am thinking you will be able to achieve the necessary tension to keep it in place, based on my experience with using the handles on my Excal (and Sovereign) shafts.

IF NOT, here are a couple of solutions to that...

1.  I can purchase carbon-fiber tubes produced with a "textured" surface -- like what is found on my (and some other brands') sand scoop handles.  This would increase friction even further; this would be my approach if get any feedback that folks can't achieve the necessary friction to keep that handle locked in place.

2.  There are aftermarket handles available that apparently resolve this issue...

JPs Aluminum Minelab GPX Handle | Fort Bedford Metal Detectors

That link was shared with me by schoolofhardNox also, and I believe it's what he has switched over to, on his shafts...

Meanwhile, here are a couple of "hacks" that come to mind for folks currently having this issue with their stock shafts...

Perhaps that black "textured spray paint" sold by Krylon (and probably others) could help; one could tape off all but the area where the handle resides, and then apply that to the "handle" location of the shaft; the textured surface under the handle would likely allow for improved friction...

OR, one could drill a hole THROUGH the handle and THROUGH the shaft, and secure it with a bolt and wing nut (nylon, or stainless).

Anyway, THANKS for the information and feedback, Chase.  Very much appreciated.  I hope to have the GPX uppers ready soon (after I get the prototype finished, and sent to schoolofhardNox for testing).

Steve

www.stevesdetectorrods.com
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email:  steve@stevesdetectorrods.com