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Ferrite Ring 8 Years Later


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2 minutes ago, GhostMiner said:

How'd you like it?

The 7000, I though I’d never sell it, fantastic detector. For me it was a choice between ergonomics having both the gpz7000 and the gpx6000 both great detectors I was using the 6000 most of the time and when I’d grab the 7000 it wasn’t bringing a lot of difference. This release of the Axiom brings a couple things that I always wanted a more steady threshold and iron check, will the Axiom hit deeper than the 7000 I don’t care, but probably not. It seems all detectors have certain targets they struggle with and my aim is to play on the strength of the Axiom and those of the 6000 and cover the same ground in a different ear. The 6000 and 7000 both hit targets in similar ways, different but similar…the Axiom by all early reports by those I have no reason to doubt brings a different tool to the game, not necessarily better just different.

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14 hours ago, Rob Allison said:

Now when it comes to Ferrite rings, they say the color ID's  the Ferrite ring.  However, some have claimed Doc's don't do the same as the Minelab one and I haven't found any truth to this.  I have even brought this to Doc's attention years ago, but I still have customers that claim the Minelab one works better than any aftermarket one.  

Just some thoughts on this.

Rob

I bought one from either you or Doc (it was off ebay, can't remember who sold it now) and it absolutely was not a real ferrite ring or equivalent to the Minelab one. Just an FYI. It was highly magnetic, same as pure iron, and contained a high amount of actual iron. It was quite a lot more dense than the ML ferrite too.

Also, I sanded the paint off the bottom of the ML and that ferrite ring, and that one I bought was silvery/metallic (not ferrite) and the ML ferrite was powdery black (as a ferrite should be).

No big deal, I never saw any difference with the real ML ferrite ring. But whatever that one I bought was, absolutely was not equivalent to the ML ferrite and nothing I could do could balance it out due to the high amount of pure iron content in it. 

Pure iron is not ferrite. Ferromagnetic vs ferrimagnetic.

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I find the ferrite ring useful in particular for semi auto GB to avoid X drift. Locking the X without ferrite is not ideal in my experience. Ferrite has made a good difference for me in the past. They just brake easily when throwing on the ground, broke several that way. Also, i reduce gain to about 6 to 8 when GB over the ferrite, otherwise it often won't get completely silent. Auto GB leads to drift over time, even with ferrite, that's why I always prefer semi auto.

GC

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I never seen a need for the ferrite but at the same time the sites I usually hunt with the 7 are in NV and just not that bad of ground.  Heck, even when I went to AZ, the sites I used the 7 was no issues.  I quit carrying it on me after a while.  I do think there are sites that it could help though.  After all, why did they decide to send it?  Maybe for the same reason the cross bar on the harness?  Just wasting space in the box?  I realize a few folks do use the chest cross bar, but I don't care for it.  Actually, I don't even use the harness with the rods, as I feel they are a pain in the arse.

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Hey Jasong,

   I think you purchased it from us.  Ya, Doc and I had a long discussion via email about this very subject.  I sell a bunch of both of them, but if someone is concerned, then probably should purchase the original Minelab version.  I have used both over the years, never seen a huge difference on the ground I hunt, but I'm sure it could play an important role in properly ground balancing the GPZ on much more mineralized ground (high iron/feromag minerals).

** Something Important to Customers - The ferrite rings are super fragile, many have just tossed them down on the ground and shattered them.  It's best if you place them gently on the ground, "don't toss" them or there is a high change of it breaking into pieces.  Some have covered them in various material to protect them, even electrical tape. 

Rob

 

Quote

I bought one from either you or Doc (it was off ebay, can't remember who sold it now) and it absolutely was not a real ferrite ring or equivalent to the Minelab one. Just an FYI. It was highly magnetic, same as pure iron, and contained a high amount of actual iron. It was quite a lot more dense than the ML ferrite too.

Also, I sanded the paint off the bottom of the ML and that ferrite ring, and that one I bought was silvery/metallic (not ferrite) and the ML ferrite was powdery black (as a ferrite should be).

No big deal, I never saw any difference with the real ML ferrite ring. But whatever that one I bought was, absolutely was not equivalent to the ML ferrite and nothing I could do could balance it out due to the high amount of pure iron content in it. 

Pure iron is not ferrite. Ferromagnetic vs ferrimagnetic.

 

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It is highly recommend you use the ferrite ring to calibrate your GPZ7000 for X signals. X is seen by the detector if the calibration is incorrect. X calibration is determined by the temperature of the electronics, so as an example if you perform an X balance at the start of your session at a winter morning ambient temperature the control box will slowly warm up until the electronics reach operating temperature, as such the calibration once warm will be different to that attained at the start of the session.

X calibration can also be affected by the use of Auto whereas Semi-Auto is a FIXED state for the Ferrite balance, Quick-Trak affects the ferrite calibration no matter which Ground Balance mode you are in, Auto, Semi-Auto or Manual. It is not recommend you used Quick-Trak without the Ferrite present.

In low X areas (even quiet soils can have high X) the Auto mode will generally do a good job of keeping the X calibration accurate but this can change if there is a LOT of conductive signal as the algorithm CAN’T always tell the difference between Salt/conductive signals and Saturation signals (Saturation is not such a problem in the US).

I recommend you use Semi-Auto mode and perform/check the X calibration for the given temperature at the start of a detecting session and again about an hour later once it’s warmed up. If there is a signal on the ferrite then your machine will make noise on any X the coil gets exposed to, the signal from X gets mixed in with general ground noise but will elevate overall detector ground signal behaviour potentially masking deep gold.

Not all Ferrites are created equal so I’ve attached the recommendation section off the ML website on what specification off ferrite should be used. An incorrect ferrite with the wrong values can cause havoc.

If you don’t feel the need for a Ferrite then I highly recommend you use Auto mode.

It only takes seconds to wave over a ferrite at the start of a session in Semi-Auto mode, if there is a bit of signal off the ferrite then hold QT in till the signal goes away and your good to go. If your machine is making a signal on the Ferrite then it will make signals on any X in the ground which then blends in with ground noise, even VERY experienced GPZ users struggle to determine X signals from ground signals. 

https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/254884/KBA_26-1 GPZ 7000 Tips for Better Ground Balance.pdf

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Thank you JP, the definitive answer from the guy most closely associated with the facts. I found the para cord wrap all the way around incasing the ring made it impervious to breaking from carelessly throwing it down (my first unwrapped suffered my abuse) but no amount of wrap was sufficient for my senior moments… you still need to pick it up.

microphone drop…

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I have one of my Field Staff who uses it extensively JP and you probably know who I'm talking about.  If anyone is an authority on the GPZ-7000, you have certainly earned that badge and we appreciate your free education and guidance on the matter.  Well done my friend.

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JP does that me if you don't have the ferric ring available switching from Semi-Auto to Auto for a few minutes and back to Semi-Auto when out of whack (or every now an then) should do just as good of job as using the ferric ring? 

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