steveg Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 1/8/2023 at 4:25 PM, CarsonChris said: Are these shaft's available now? I don't see them on the website? Chris, Sorry for the delayed reply; all day detecting trip yesterday, so a bit behind and trying to catch up! I haven't put them on the "Products" portion of the website yet, as I'm trying to get all of the customers who are on my wait list outfitted, first. I have so many orders to fill, that I'm trying not to overwhelm myself with ADDITIONAL customers yet, LOL! When they DO go on the website, they will be at a higher price than the special "introductory" price I'm selling them to wait-list customers for. So, if you think you may want one, I'll add you to the wait list. As for availability, parts are in production right now, for me to begin building the second batch of shafts, but it appears that there may be a couple weeks' delay for me to receive these parts. So, it looks like it may be the first week in February before the parts are shipped, and then mid February before I am building/shipping shafts... Meanwhile, if you are wanting some detailed info on the shaft itself, I DO have a couple of my most recent "blog" posts up on the website; you'll find those posts under the "What's New" tab (www.stevesdetectorrods.com/blog/index.php). Thanks! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveg Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 On 1/8/2023 at 4:38 PM, Carolina said: Coil your cable like the CTX. Also exit by the RC mount so you can collapse the upper shaft to the cuff. Carolina, 1. How did you coil that cable? THAT is really what is needed, to do a GOOD "inside the shaft" wire run... 2. You are right; a hole in the mount is the best option. HOWEVER, after much work/effort, I could not locate a hole on the RC mount that would allow the wire -- WITH that plastic connector -- to exit through the hole. The lack of flexibility of the connector, the size of it, etc., simply thwarted any attempt I made to find a place that I could include a hole on the mount (with respect to the way that the mount is designed, internally). HOWEVER -- it would be EASY to locate a hole on the mount, if all that was needed was to pass the thin wire ITSELF through (i.e. without connector). SO -- if anyone wishes to modify their antenna wire (remove the plastic connector/clip, at least temporarily), then routing the antenna wire through the mount itself becomes trivial/easy to do. And YES -- just as you noted, for the reasons you noted (shaft collapsibility), that is absolutely the preferred solution (but which, again, the connector/clip prevented me from achieving). Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Start by taping the co ax to the end of a 1/4” dowel leaving about 12” of straight co ax. Then wind the co ax tightly around dowel until about 12” from the end and tape in place. The co ax is stiff so it takes a little effort and you need to have the tape already cut and ready to apply. Then carefully heat the cable with a heat gun ( PVC or Wagner paint stripper or hair dryer on hottest setting ). Once good and hot from end to end, place in the fridge for 10 min. Repeat this process 2 more times. The trick on the mount, is to remove the two screws holding the mount to the shaft and remove mount. Then disassemble the mount face from the body by depressing the tabs on the side. There is just enough space to drill the hole for the grommet and cable. Now you can run the cable out the shaft into the mount and out, make a loop and then you can push the co ax thru the hole in the mount. Next slide the grommet over the co ax and insert in hole. Then holding the grommet in place, pull the loop out of the co ax. Reassemble the mount and install on shaft. Takes some work but make a clean mod. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Bach Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 25 minutes ago, steveg said: Carolina, 1. How did you coil that cable? THAT is really what is needed, to do a GOOD "inside the shaft" wire run... 2. You are right; a hole in the mount is the best option. HOWEVER, after much work/effort, I could not locate a hole on the RC mount that would allow the wire -- WITH that plastic connector -- to exit through the hole. The lack of flexibility of the connector, the size of it, etc., simply thwarted any attempt I made to find a place that I could include a hole on the mount (with respect to the way that the mount is designed, internally). HOWEVER -- it would be EASY to locate a hole on the mount, if all that was needed was to pass the thin wire ITSELF through (i.e. without connector). SO -- if anyone wishes to modify their antenna wire (remove the plastic connector/clip, at least temporarily), then routing the antenna wire through the mount itself becomes trivial/easy to do. And YES -- just as you noted, for the reasons you noted (shaft collapsibility), that is absolutely the preferred solution (but which, again, the connector/clip prevented me from achieving). Steve 32 minutes ago, steveg said: Chris, Sorry for the delayed reply; all day detecting trip yesterday, so a bit behind and trying to catch up! I haven't put them on the "Products" portion of the website yet, as I'm trying to get all of the customers who are on my wait list outfitted, first. I have so many orders to fill, that I'm trying not to overwhelm myself with ADDITIONAL customers yet, LOL! When they DO go on the website, they will be at a higher price than the special "introductory" price I'm selling them to wait-list customers for. So, if you think you may want one, I'll add you to the wait list. As for availability, parts are in production right now, for me to begin building the second batch of shafts, but it appears that there may be a couple weeks' delay for me to receive these parts. So, it looks like it may be the first week in February before the parts are shipped, and then mid February before I am building/shipping shafts... Meanwhile, if you are wanting some detailed info on the shaft itself, I DO have a couple of my most recent "blog" posts up on the website; you'll find those posts under the "What's New" tab (www.stevesdetectorrods.com/blog/index.php). Thanks! Steve Hello Steve.I may have overlooked it but are there any future plans for a camouflage version becoming available?Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 I see now you use the locking mechanism which will more than likely prevent part of my mod. It has been my finding, that people’s hand slide up the handle while detecting into the bottom of the RC. This causes the RC to come loose. I wish we could have talked before you started and maybe a new handle could have been formed. I wrapped vet wrap around my handle heavily around the top and then tapered down the handle. It has worked for me. If you remember we talked about me testing others shafts and I’m the one who talked to Alexandre about your shaft locks. I doubt you will have any trouble selling boat loads of your shafts. Looks like a nice set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveg Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 2 hours ago, Carolina said: Start by taping the co ax to the end of a 1/4” dowel leaving about 12” of straight co ax. Then wind the co ax tightly around dowel until about 12” from the end and tape in place. The co ax is stiff so it takes a little effort and you need to have the tape already cut and ready to apply. Then carefully heat the cable with a heat gun ( PVC or Wagner paint stripper or hair dryer on hottest setting ). Once good and hot from end to end, place in the fridge for 10 min. Repeat this process 2 more times. The trick on the mount, is to remove the two screws holding the mount to the shaft and remove mount. Then disassemble the mount face from the body by depressing the tabs on the side. There is just enough space to drill the hole for the grommet and cable. Now you can run the cable out the shaft into the mount and out, make a loop and then you can push the co ax thru the hole in the mount. Next slide the grommet over the co ax and insert in hole. Then holding the grommet in place, pull the loop out of the co ax. Reassemble the mount and install on shaft. Takes some work but make a clean mod. Carolina, THANKS for the info on the coiled cable. VERY good info...interesting. As for the mount, that's a great tutorial, for the XP stock mount. Mine is different, injection-molded as one piece, and so taking the mount apart like that is not an option. That's why the only way to do it, would be if the plastic connector/clip were removed. Then, the "bare wire" cold easily be routed through a small hole drilled in the mount... Thanks for the info! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveg Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 2 hours ago, Carolina said: I see now you use the locking mechanism which will more than likely prevent part of my mod. It has been my finding, that people’s hand slide up the handle while detecting into the bottom of the RC. This causes the RC to come loose. I wish we could have talked before you started and maybe a new handle could have been formed. I wrapped vet wrap around my handle heavily around the top and then tapered down the handle. It has worked for me. If you remember we talked about me testing others shafts and I’m the one who talked to Alexandre about your shaft locks. I doubt you will have any trouble selling boat loads of your shafts. Looks like a nice set up. Carolina, The locking mechanism would prevent a hole in the top of the mount, yes, but one could be place a hole in the top/side of the mount, achieving the same effect. But, again, it would have to be the bare wire, and not the wire WITH the connector/clip installed on the end of it, to be able to be routed through the hole. As for the handle, I wasn't wanting to change it TOO much, from what people are used to, though I did make it a bit "taller." Overall, one goal I had during design was to try have the shaft feel "familiar," in many respects, to Deus users, and just change the things that were "flawed" (from my perspective). That's a part of why I didn't change the handle shape too much. I did change the location of the remote/mount on the handle (it is much more "recessed" into the handle, or in other words, "forward" (in a "coilward" direction); this not only makes the buttons on the face of the remote MUCH more accessible, but it also should minimize the tendency for the remote to "rub" on someone's hand the way it does when mounted to the stock shaft. And then, to account for situations when the remote IS bumped, the locking mechanism was added to the remote to minimize chances of the it being "bumped loose." The handle itself, though, was not mentioned by many as being a "negative." And since how a handle "feels" is a very personal thing, given preferences, various hand sizes, etc., I felt like any change I would make to the shape/style of the handle would please some, and displease others. So, again, I thought leaving it as close in shape to the stock handle as possible, was the best bet. I had forgotten that you were the one who mentioned my cam locks to Alexandre (thank you, by the way). The shafts are selling well thus far, thank you. I'm concerned that when the "special introductory pricing" period is over, they may sell more slowly; these are very expensive shafts to produce, and thus require a price point higher than I'd otherwise want. Part of the reason for that is that compared to the Equinox straight shaft, for instance, this shaft requires the inclusion of two additional (expensive) parts that the Equinox shaft does not -- the carbon-fiber arm cuff, and the carbon-fiber S-handle These two parts alone raise the cost of production substantially, which makes it difficult for me to offer them at price that is as affordable as I would otherwise like... Thanks for the kind words! Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveg Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 3 hours ago, Doc Bach said: Hello Steve.I may have overlooked it but are there any future plans for a camouflage version becoming available?Thanks in advance. Doc, At some point, I plan to offer the Deus shafts in colors. For now, I'm doing black only, and working to sell enough of them to recoup my initial investment in the project, as it was substantial. Thus, that has prevented me from the ability to invest in building up an inventory of tubes in different colors. Gradually, though, as I recoup the initial investment, I plan to eventually add colored shafts as an option. If you are set on a camo one, I may be able to get you taken care of with a "custom" build, using tubes already in stock; send me an email if you like, at steve@stevesdetectorrods.com, and we can discuss... Thanks! Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 1 hour ago, steveg said: I'm concerned that when the "special introductory pricing" period is over Can you PM me a price please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 1 hour ago, steveg said: That's why the only way to do it, would be if the plastic connector/clip were removed. Then, the "bare wire" cold easily be routed through a small hole drilled in the mount... It can be removed and re attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now