Nothing too hard even for a rookie technician like me with not so High knowledge on boards whistles and bells...
I'm Just posting a couple pictures at the end of the work, but really (again) misappointed regard the gasket system in the TDI beachhunter.
To give some value to this post, I Just want to Say: please BE CAREFUL doing surgery on this control box, as the plastics are something to severely review to the death White's factory, now Garrett property.
Not only the gasket tunnel between the upper and the lower part of the box is been made to create gasket's cuts and leaks at the first attempt to re-assemble the box, but even a Nightmare to get the job done without the o-ring moving inside and over the PCB when 6 of the 8 screws are already there again....😭.
So this time I'm not so sure to have a leakproof TDI and I swear to want a detector.mod hard case for It.
I Just don't understand why not to create a flat against flat surface with again a flat gasket in between😒😒😒.
White's ...Come on!
(I don't want to advertise for free or without Steve to be ok with these words) so Sorry for complaining with a self exposed solution to this bad thing...
For those of you that carry a PLB or EPIRB, I’m not sure which Minelab or PLB and EPIRB models are affected, but there’s an interesting discussion and a Minlelab advisory about accidental activations due to a PLB sitting too close or touching an active coil. Just something to look out for if you carry one when you’re out and about. They recommend keeping it further away than 10 cm from a active coil.
By Steve Herschbach
This is for novices and the things covered are basic, but very important. I even need to remind myself of this stuff now and then. We all take it so much for granted, that things like loose cable near coil rarely are mentioned on the forum. And coil control? Probably one of the most important factors in success for successful detectorists. People obsess over a detector getting another inch, when so many people could get that just with better coil control.
I live in Northern Idaho (Moscow) and bought a gold monster 1000. I can't really complain that it is hard to find gold, as I was warned by the Chris Ralph Fists Full of Gold book to not invest in a metal detector right away without prospecting experience. Frankly it was a bit of an impulse buy as the activity just looked like so much fun, and I read books you can detect outside of the desert I really want to make it work. I haven't had any luck so far despite being out roughly ten times. Went out for the first time this season to a placer mine dump.
This time of year there is still snow in the mountains and the rivers and creeks are overflowing with snowmelt. So I think it is better to wait for awhile before hitting creeks and streams and just target old gold mines which have mine dumps. To research I use the site https://www.idahogeology.org/webmap to give me specific gps coordinates. I also use sites like thediggings.com to see if there is any mining activity in the area to make sure I don't go on someone's claim, but also that the area is known to have some gold.
I haven't been able to find too many guys doing detecting in a heavily wooded area with a VLF. Which makes sense because VLF's can't get through the mulch and heavy vegetation layer. Today I went to a lode mine dump and although there were huge piles of dirt I wondered if I would be able to detect any missed nuggets in there unless I was to get the bottom of that huge pile as the heaviness of gold would sink to the bottom. My question is about the application of VLF's in heavily wooded areas. Is it limited to Creeks and Streams? How can the limited depth of VLF's deal with this heavy mulch layer in these placer/load mine dumps in the forest? I'm also curious if my approach is really bad in general. Thanks.
I have an easy and maybe stupid question to present now...
Observing my TDI Bh, with both of the coils I own (the original 12" and the aftermarket Detech 8"), I can clearly see way too long wire around the shaft and I'm forced to make several loops up to the control box near the handle.
Supposing to measure the right lenght for the maximum extended shaft, and to cut away the hipmount mile long cable.....Am I doing a disaster or not?
I actually can't remember the technical cable's specs in the amazing pdf Steve posted time ago, but if I'm correct it talked about to reduce some current resistance with a slight performance improvement too...Have I seen a mirage or what?...
I'm not kidding 😜...
It's just me, looking for something to play with, suffering for a missed AQ.
My wife's health is going to require me to take a break from treasure hunting for a few years so I'm packing everything up for storage. What's the best way to prep my headphone muff's for long term storage?
For that matter, Do I need to do anything special to my detectors other than removing the batteries and a good cleaning?