Jewelry Hunting Parks - Target Recovery

[tboykin]

I am trying to focus on ring hunting in some of the parks around here, and I'm curious what recovery methods you all use. One of the older guys I hunt with only uses a screwdriver, another an old knife... I usually bring a hand digger and cut 3-sided plugs.

Probes don't seem to be too popular, but when detecting nicely manicured parks what method do you use? Probe and pop? Cut a plug? I'm hoping to some across some other technique that might not be as common, but is equally effective and doesn't mess up the grass too much.

[Steve Herschbach]

Pinpoint with pinpointer and pop with screwdriver as described above. There is no real reason to go deep for jewelry and usually if the pinpointer can't see it I just pass it up. If I did want to go deep (something I generally reserve for old coin detecting) I would use slit or trapdoor method.

Jewelry detecting usually means volume recovery of aluminum so you want it to be fast and damage minimized. Therefore my emphasis on popping rather than plugging while jewelry hunting.

[Deft Tones]

I used to think I only needed a screwdriver as jewelry doesn't settle down too deep... I've since altered my view on that based on a few rings that were isolated slamming signals in soccer fields (shhhhhh!) and I could not resist looking to see what they could be... I tried the first time, I really did. Was an awakening my third time at 7/8 inches. Shallow jewelry is both true and false....IMExperience.

The truth is no one or two techniques cover all situations, and a good well rounded public-area detectorist should learn all of them, even combining them, and adapt to the ground conditions for each signal. 

Getting wordy, sorry.

TRX set to max holds the key for me 90% of the time for targeting most jewelry. It's a jewelry hunters pinpointer for sure. If it's not beeping I'm not peeking. And trace it with the TRX - don't pop chains with that screwdriver!  They're hard enough to find intact, so don't risk it.

Keep the incision as close to the target as one dares and raise the sod up only enough to recover the item from the side of the now exposed soil.

I use these and order of preference is as follows:

Popcorn (screwdriver popping).

Straight slice/lift/popcorn.

J slice/lift.

Pie slice or modified V/lift.

C or U slice/lift.

Flap

Plug.

I doubt any of the very intelligent people here need a hand-holding description, but I can clarify if needed.

I carry 3 different tools. Screwdriver, soil knife, Predator Raptor. Some recoveries I end up using all 3.

I see it as the art of recovery.

 

After lots of park hunting I like to get out in a farmfield and dig like a sloppy honeybadger for practice. 

 

[Steve Herschbach]

I certainly agree there is deep jewelry - there has to be! In general for me it is about impact. I can cherry pick coin targets better, with less wasted and potentially damaging digs needed to get X number of good finds. Jewelry I dig massive amounts of aluminum so I prefer to stay shallow. That's just me in most cases. There is no right or wrong per se. We all just have our own judgement about what is most appropriate given our particular situation.

Main rule - always use a pinpointer and try to leave no trace!

[Mike Hillis]

I use the screwdriver probe.   If I can't find the target in a reasonably amount of time I break out the TRX or Sunray. If they don't hit on the object then I'll cut a three sided plug.  I guess it might be faster to start with the electronic probe but I learned to probe before I bought an electronic probe so I got pretty good at it.   A good probe transfers a lot of information to your hand.  The hard part is being patient and not just jamming the thing into the ground. 

Good luck on your ring hunts!

HH
Mike

[tboykin]

Thank you guys for all of the feedback. I always feel bad digging a big ole plug in parks. I will try and work on my screwdriver skills.

[GB_Amateur]

8 hours ago, tboykin said:

Thank you guys for all of the feedback. I always feel bad digging a big ole plug in parks. I will try and work on my screwdriver skills.

One of the things I've read over and over regarding general detecting:  don't have a locked mode of setting your detector, but rather adjust to the situation you are in.  IMO this applies even more broadly to park (and other public property) hunting.  I've been in situations where strict rules (e.g. no plug, no serated digger) were enforced.  I've also been in other locations where plug cutting (with "catch-and-release" = "leave no trace") was allowed.  Best is to have all of these options/skills in your detecting toolbox.  1% of the public will take offense no matter what you do.  The other 99% will notice and be tolerant because of how well you respect the land.  I lean to the side of catering to the 99%.  Follow the rules, but when they are vague and/or allow interpretation, take advantage of that.  Just be a good citizen in the process, and follow the Golden Rule.

[Mike Hillis]

Tom,  On probes, try to stay at or under 3/16" of an inch diameter.  1/8" is great for information transfer but too thin for recovery.  3/16"  is ok at information transfer and holds up better for recovery efforts.  1/4" is poorer at information transfer but holds up better for recovery.  

With an 1/8" probe I can tell if I'm touching a rock, a root, foil, canslaw or pulltab or a coin.   Most important part is get good at fast and accurate pinpointing with your detector, and fast probe use. You'll find that anything in the top 4" is faster to retrieve with a probe than then time to takes to dig out the electronic probe and turn it on. (I don't walk around with the electronic probe turned on). 

Anyway...again..good luck.

HH
Mike

[Monte]

Mike Hillis.. On probes, try to stay at or under 3/16" of an inch diameter.  1/8" is great for information transfer but too thin for recovery. ... With an 1/8" probe I can tell if I'm touching a rock, a root, foil, canslaw or pulltab or a coin. .. Excellent suggestion and I have long favored a 1/8" to 3/16" shaft when I round-off my screwdriver probe.  The reference to "information transfer" is what newcomers to probing need to learn, and avid detectorists using this recovery technique have learned to appreciate.

 

Mike Hillis.. Most important part is get good at fast and accurate pinpointing with your detector, and fast probe use. You'll find that anything in the top 4" is faster to retrieve with a probe than then time to takes to dig out the electronic probe and turn it on. (I don't walk around with the electronic probe turned on). ..Once again very correct.  Quick/accurate pinpointing and fast isolation and recovery with a good probe and you loose little time.  You mentioned pinpointers always being turned on and I was surprised to find some folks who do that.

[Deft Tones]

I know you guys are above my pay grade in experience, but do you really probe for jewelry?

I understand probing for coins and it is fast saving time, but jewelry (ring, necklace, earring) no way. I've broke rings (thin ladies bands) skewering them through the hole (thought I missed) and balled chains broke in half.

If I know it's not a coin I won't probe and pop.