Jump to content
Steve Herschbach

Gold Monster / Golden Mask Rod Adaptation

Recommended Posts


Steve, where did you buy the Golden mask rod?   Thanx,,..........        D.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 2nd supplier is the one that i bought my GM shafts early last year,use mine all the time on my Deus,terrific shafts especially for the Deus coil,as i mainly just use the detector without the controller as i usually have mine in my pocket and just use it as a audio only machine.

But must admit i love the way that Steve has grafted the Gold Monster control box onto the shaft,work and looks very well.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Almost there. Better fitting clamps, upper rod extended 6" with 3/4" PVC pipe, and drilled to fit Golden Mask armrest. About 32" collapsed and 5 feet fully extended! Weighs 3 lbs 7.7 oz (3.48 lbs) or 1.58 kg with rechargeable batteries installed. A few little tweaks yet to do but basically this is a done deal.

minelab-gold-monster-1000-golden-mask-telescoping-rod-conversion-collapsed.jpg

minelab-gold-monster-1000-golden-mask-telescoping-rod-conversion-extended.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nicely done job Steve. Great little back packing unit. Sweet.

Good luck out there

JW :smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanx Steve, I like the compactness of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gold Monster fitted with a bamboo shaft. Very lightweight. Just a little bit of sanding to make it easy for the stock clamps to fit. The Jungle Monster. 

20170811_140958.png

20170811_140930.png

2017_081114_0832_078.png

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GOSH....what next?....people will be using bloody broom handles. :laugh: Doesn't look very back packable though, unless you used the bamboo for a walking pole & chuck the rest in your pack. :smile:

Good luck out there

JW :smile:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Steve Herschbach
      Subject came up elsewhere so I thought I would run a little poll. The poll only gives you two choices but if you want to post about what you think your number one most comfortable detector model has ever been that would be great. It could be a lousy detector in every other way, all I am looking for it what detectors feel best on your arm when held for long hours. There are no right or wrong answers - this is a personal preference thing, determined in large part by hand and forearm size.
      The "S" rod grip is where the grip is just part of the rod itself, not a separate element. The Post grip is a separate post attached to the rod. Lots of people call this a pistol grip, but that really is more about the shape of the grip. I have seen good pistol grips in an S rod design. There are also Post grips on S rods so it is not the S that makes for the S rod grip but the fact it is integrated into the S. The photos here make it more obvious. There is a difference simply between curved shafts and straight shafts but that is actually a separate subject so I will make a separate poll on it.

    • By Tom Slick
      Decided to mod the 800 rod by switching out the straight middle rod to the White's S rod. I know a lot of folks like a straight rod but by switching it out, it eliminates the detector's handgrip from wanting to twist at the end of each swing. In a side by side comparison, both myself and a buddy with an 800 both like the feel of the modified version. The mod requires the middle rod from a White's DFX, or MXT. The rod needs to be drilled on the upper top end for the spring plunger and again adjustment holes need to be drilled on the bottom for length adjustment. The Lower rod from a Makro Racer or Kruzer is used as the lower rod from the Nox is larger in diameter. The top of the S rod also needs to be shimmed about .040" in diameter to fit snug into the Nox upper rod. Now it swings about as close to an F75 as you can get.

    • By Steve Herschbach
      This is pretty simple. Straight shaft, or some kind of curved shaft? The most common curved shaft is the S rod but there are others. Please vote in the poll so it tallies results but if you want to add commentary/particulars that is great.
       
       






    • By midalake
      I was looking for an option to do away with the 3 piece Minelab system. I came across the rods Doc makes for the gold hunters.  I might be the first one shipped to use on the Nox. I like the stuff gold guys have, they swing big coils and are in tough conditions.
      This is a good price point on this 2 piece system. Also great for tall persons. I am splitting with someone but for $230  we received two fiberglass lowers and a carbon fiber upper each for a unit cost of $115.  Be aware this is for the rods  only.  I have added pictures   and in the pictures you can see I have added my own Minelab two piece alum. cuff with neoprene covering [i think one of the best cuffs made].  I have also added a separate hand hold and will not use the detector itself to swing the rod. There are no holes for the Nox arm cuff or control unit you will need to drill for these.  Dave
        


    • By steveg
      Hi all;
      As some of you may know, I've been producing lower rods for the CTX 3030 for about 8 months now, selling them through the forums and my website (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) to a number of satisfied customers. Along the way, I've had several inquiries regarding whether I could build Equinox rods. My answer was always "no," as a major stumbling block was that piece that fits onto the "coil end" of the rod, i.e. the piece to which the coil attaches -- the "yoke," or "clevis," as I call it.
      Well, with requests for me to build Equinox lower rods so frequent that eventually I couldn't ignore it any longer, I set my mind on working on a design for that clevis/yoke piece. Once I came up with a working design idea, I submitted engineering drawings of my design to the machining/fabrication company that supplies my CTX rod parts, and asked if they could build me a prototype. Meanwhile, I ordered a carbon-fiber tube from my tube supplier, in the precise diameter to fit inside the Minelab Equinox middle rod, and also some washers specific to my yoke/clevis design. The tube and washers arrived recently, and just today, the yoke/clevis was delivered. I'm pleased to say that it turned out perfectly! All the dimensions are correct/exacting, and I "test fit" the parts with success -- please see the pictures below. The only parts I'm still waiting on are the push-button "spring clip" for the upper end of the rod, and a specialized drill bit for drilling the hole for the spring clip. Those will be here soon -- and at that point my "proof-of-concept" prototype rod will be ready for me to use!
      MEANWHILE, given the successful prototype, I am ordering parts tomorrow to make a first batch of 20 Equinox lower rods. As I said above, these rods are designed to fit seamlessly into the Minelab EQX middle rod -- exactly as the Minelab stock lower rod does. I plan to build them the same length as the Minelab lower rod as "standard practice," but can also build them to whatever length desired. I expect to have the first batch of rods available for sale in roughly 4 weeks. Tentatively, I expect pricing to be roughly $60 plus shipping -- but will know for sure once I place that first "bulk" order of carbon fiber tubes and yoke/clevis pieces.
      If you have any interest one of these lower rods, please let me know, and I'll be sure to have one available for you.
      THANKS!
      Steve





×