Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
kiwijw

Gold Spear

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, have any of you used a gold spear. If so....what are your thought on them? The fact they aren't around any more, or are they?, sort of suggests they weren't too popular. Thanks.

Good luck out there

JW :smile:

  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Used one here in Arizona , seemed like ya almost had to stick the probe on a piece of gold to get a reading.

Did not use it but the one time, glad it was a loaner...:biggrin:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old prospector I knew years ago in Arizona *as well* took me out and showed me how to use his gold spear.  It worked well for locating fine gold streaks in gravels.  You count the number of strikes as you probe and the higher the count the better the run.  Biggest problem is pushing it into the gravels.  Have not seen another one used since then but there may be a few floating around still.  Still nothing replaces sample panning but the spear can clue you in.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to be a Goldspear dealer and had one briefly myself. It is not a pinpointer in the classic sense. It as far as I can tell is basically a conductivity meter. The tip of the probe is made of alternating layers of tungsten carbide and an insulator. Conductive items coming into physical contact with the tip bridge the small gap between the tungsten carbide layers to complete a circuit. A sort of minimal discrimination exists between conductive metals and less conductive mineral matter.

From the Online Manual (use Google Translate) 

How it works: When the probe is stuck into the ground, in sand and gravel layers in and along the watercourses, every mineral grain that the tip comes into contact with is measured. The measurements are electrical and it is the so-called self-potential of the individual mineral beads and their ability to conduct current as measured. This measurement takes place in less than one thousandths of a second.

Different minerals have different electrical properties, which therefore give different electrical values. One can say that each kind of mineral has its own "electric fingerprint", which is the same as the sour mineral found in Småland or China. Because there are thousands of different kinds of minerals, there are as many different "fingerprints". 

The electrical values measured by the tip are led into cables through the probe (and possibly connected extension tubes) up to the electronics where they are analyzed. Goldspear divides the minerals into five different groups, one uninteresting and four interesting: 

1) "worthless minerals" 
2) "blacksand" 
3) "Minerals who are poor on metal"
4) "Minerals rich in metal" 
5) "Pure metals, Gold - Platinum" 

goldspear-diagram.jpggoldspear-gold-spear-detector-control-box.jpg

There are two very large issues with the Goldspear. First and foremost is the fact it is a probe and not a detector per se. You must touch the item sought for with the tip and missing the item by 1 mm means you miss it entirely. The theory is you are looking for widely dispersed fine gold to trace back to the source. Here is a brief English language page describing the general theory of operation:

http://www.metalldetektor.se/gsmethod.htm

It sounds nice in theory but the reality is you cannot push the probe more than an inch or two into hardpack material. You might possibly drive a steel bar to punch a hole first, then insert the Goldspear probe into the hole, except for problem number two. Again, from the online manual link above:

"Where the field is heavily contaminated by human activity, it is almost pointless to search gold with Goldspear."

That about sums it up. Any almost microscopic bit of man made metal will cause a false signal. Mercury can contaminate the probe tip rendering it useless. My tests at a 100 year old placer mine produced signals everywhere I probed, with nothing to be found when the material was panned. An area has to be almost totally free of man made metals, and few placer areas fit that description. Back to the first problem. Driving a steel rod to create a hole for the Goldspear will almost certainly cause the hole to be contaminated by almost invisible bits of steel shed by the rod as it is driven into the ground.

OK, so this thing sounds about useless, right? Not entirely. The one scenario I came up with where a Goldspear might be useful would be in looking for virgin placer deposits covered by thick sand or muck or organic layers. For instance, a bench deposit in Alaska with two feet of tundra/moss/muck over the gravels. The Goldspear can easily penetrate this soft material to reach harder gravel to get readings on virgin material on flour gold a regular detector would never sense. Even then the whole thing seems pretty hit and miss. I have more faith in a shovel and gold pan.

Very much a niche product and it was not cheap - like over a $1000 if I recall correctly. I don't think they make them anymore though the manufacturer website is still up and running. From the website:

Goldspear Specifications

Electronics unit: Height 220 mm., Length 190 mm., Width 55 mm. Weight: 700 grams.

Battery: 9 volt standard battery.

Piezo loudspeaker: Length 70 mm., Diameter 20 mm., Weight 20 grams.

Measuring tube with tip (Probe): Stainless steel and carbide. Weight: 800 grams. Length 1.2 m., Diameter 15 mm. (Coupling diameter 18 mm.).

Extension pipe: Optional accessories. Naturally oxidized hair dermal tubing with quick couplings. Weight: 400 grams. Length 1.2 m., Diameter 15 mm. (connecting diameter 18 mm).

Complete with peripherals and an extension tube weighs Goldspear less than 2 kg.

Sensitivity is difficult to describe but if 1 gram of gold (0.05 mm grain) is evenly distributed in one ton of sand, Goldspear gives an indication every two decimeters as the probe is stuck in the sand. These are statistics, in fact, gold is never even distributed but is usually concentrated in layers or pockets. These are easier to find than in the (unnatural) cases where gold is evenly distributed. In addition, the sensitivity can be doubled by stopping the probe twice or tenfold if it is stabbed ten times at the place you are looking for. 

Minimum detectable gold grain: less than 0.05 mm.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys, Thank you all for your comments, feedback & advice. I have always been intrigued by the gold spear & one came up on our online auction site. It was in almost new condition. It closed on sunday & sold for NZ$400. I was away all weekend jetboating on some West Coast Rivers (non gold related)  & so missed the close of the auction & I didn't see any of your comments until monday. Probably glad I missed out on it :rolleyes:  Cheers all

Good luck out there

JW :smile:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last time I looked at the mfgr website, this thing was over $3500.I believe the website is in Sweden. I had a used one many years ago but it was about useless and too hard to figger out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was thinking about one for beach mining....... easy to push through the sand and possible to help find a pay streak or concentrated layers of black sand.

 

Just one problem.... No way in hell will I pay that kind of money for a fancy VOM.

unnamed.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At NZ$400 you wouldn't have to find a shed load of gold to make it pay its way. Using it for black sand beach gold was my aim as well. Outside of beach sand, trying to push the rod into creek & stream bed rocks & gravels just isn't going to work.  The West Coast of the South Island here in New Zealand was/is pretty famous for its beach gold. They are mostly all claimed. Some pop up every now & then for sale.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/businesses-for-sale/other/auction-1466926667.htm?rsqid=9da235843e604ceba3551cea981f8cbe

https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/businesses-for-sale/other/auction-889571431.htm?rsqid=9da235843e604ceba3551cea981f8cbe

http://mineforgold.co.nz/mining-gold/how_to_mine_gold/black-sand-gold-mining/

Just out of interest. http://mineforgold.co.nz/mining-gold/how_to_mine_gold/black-sand-gold-mining/black-sand-gold-plant-for-sale/

Good luck out there

JW :smile:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At 400 bucks I would consider it but No Way at 3500.

Actually I have been doing some tinkering with a hi quality VOM and crude probe setup...... It shows some possibilities.

The biggest challenge is that multi-layered tip with tight enough tolerances ..... I think the insulating layers on the gold probe are thin enough tat it is supposed to detect 100 mesh gold particles... that's some pretty skinny insulator layers.....

Does anyone know if replacement parts are available?... Particularly the probe tip?...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK.... Does anybody out there have any old Goldspear parts?.... hopefully a probe tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By phrunt
      A few weeks ago I lost my Garrett Carrot AT when detecting down at a local river, I didn't realise it was lost until it was long gone, I tried for a couple of days to walk the same path to find it but never did so I decided I'd buy another one and some gadgets to prevent me losing it too.
      I have the standard belt holder for my Carrot but didn't like it, too high on my body for my Carrot to sit so it kept getting banged.
      I first tried my Minelab finds bag to look after it, it appears to have Carrot holders on the side of it but it doesn't fit well which makes it difficult to get in and out and has no clip for a lanyard. It sits really high on the bag too and gets in the way of my elbows.

      So I hunted around on Ebay and found a Chinese made finds bag for a good price and it had a clip and fits the Carrot much better, the bag has more features and better quality too

      I like it's drink bottle holder pouch. A zip up pocket for the important stuff and a big area for the junk with holes to let out the dirt.  It was about $15 USD delivered.
      Then I stumbled across bike torch mounts so I bought a few of them thinking I'll mount my carrot on my shaft 😀

      They worked fine but again, difficult to get it in and out but there was another model available that looked better.

      The top is firm rubber and lets you get the Carrot in and out easily and they're only about $1 USD each with free shipping to NZ.

      They hold stable and won't be lost like this, I don't notice the weight, some might...  I can use a torch in them for night detecting too if I wish.
      And the best news bit of this story, I found my original lost Carrot today down at the river while testing my new T2, it's in that photo on my Equinox shaft after I got it back... lucky it's waterproof as it's been through a lot of rain and snow.  
      If anyone has a better method of not losing a Pinpointer I'd be interested in hearing it.
       
    • By Steve Herschbach
      Two unique pulse induction pinpointers/detectors compared....
       
    • By cjc
      A Quick Look at The Nokta / Makro Pulse Dive
      I was fortunate enough to field test a prototype of this amazing device and was immediately impressed by the Pulse Dive’s rugged, professional feel.  The solid “heft” of the device made all other pinpointers I’ve tried feel like flimsy toys.  It’s also a great, practical concept—a waterproof diving detector with a deep 5.5” (14 cm.) coil for that converts in a second to a regular pinpointer.  The Pulse Dive features 5 levels of Sensitivity adjustment, selectable vibration, light and tone alert and can be paired with your headphones via a built-in wireless module.   The production model features yellow detail for easy visibility underwater and comes in a sturdy case.  The Pulse Dive kit includes covers for both coils, holster, lanyard, spare gaskets, charge cord and manual.  There's also a second, louder endcap for land use.  This is an extremely well-thought-out device—great not only as a deep, full featured standard pinpointer  but also for quick area searches of  dwellings, stone walls, enclosed spaces--and even as a security wand.   My tests showed the Pulse Dive to have great sensitivity to small gold—even chains.  It also had nice depth for coin hunting on land.  Picture shows a ’32 cent and '38 nickel—my first two finds pinpointed with the Pulse Dive.   A great addition to any serious inland or shoreline treasure hunter’s kit. 
      cjc
       
       


    • By kac
      My Profind 35 seems to sound off on nothing and seems to be getting worse. 
      If I turn it on away from anything facing upward it will sound off if I turn it facing down. If I turn it on facing down it seems to be ok but will start sounding off sometimes sideways. I have cut the sensitivity to halfway but that makes no difference. I have a fresh 9v in it.
      Has anyone else run into this?
      (note it is a replacement unit, previous unit the speaker died but would run pretty stable)
    • By mh9162013
      If you've read some of my posts, you know I hate 9V batteries. I finally finished a working prototype of a 9V voltage booster so I can use a rechargeable LiPo in my Pro-Find 35. Here are a few pics:
       

       
      Based on indoor testing, the performance exceeds the stock 9V battery. If you want to learn more, check out my blog post:
      https://gadgetsoftheoutdoors.blogspot.com/2019/05/discussion-getting-rid-of-9v-batteries.html
      I was hoping to use loose AAA cells for this, but it would require permanent modification of the end cap and I'm not ready to do that yet.
×
×
  • Create New...