So I have a dilemma, I love my Nox 800 and I've found my original green T2 to be an excellent machine, especially now I've improved it's resistance to EMI. I'm also a bit of a collector of machines 🙂
Somebody is selling an F75 that has DST and was purchased new in 2017 in USA for a very cheap price, I've paid about the same amount for a coil before... it doesn't have any extra coils nor does it have Boost or Cache modes.
Is there much point owning an F75 when I have a T2? They are really similar it seems but the F75 is much newer than my T2 so perhaps it's improved on a number of things.
I've always wanted a machine that can use concentric coils so that's a bonus with the F75 that I can see. I was thinking it might suit my wife to use for coin hunting, the only type of detecting I can get her to do, she loved the comfort levels of my T2 but hated it's jumpy Target ID numbers when my Nox was rock solid, she always got me to check targets for her as my numbers were so much better so she started using my Gold Bug Pro as it had better ID's but it lacked the depth of the T2 and she complained it wasn't as comfortable to swing for her girl arm 🙂
I always assumed the Target ID range of 50 was a hindrance for the Nox but over time I've worked out it isn't, it bangs on a solid number on a lot of targets, the T2 even though has a larger range of 99 seems to bounce even when it gets a nice solid ID it's always bouncing between a couple of numbers, eg our $2 coins are a solid 21 on the Nox, on the T2 they seem to bounce between 78, 79 and 80 when in a very good range so even though it has a bigger range it doesn't really have a benefit. It's like my Garrett Ace 350 (Euroace) has a Target ID resolution of 12, so it is rock solid on $2 coins, never skips a beat, even at massive depth it gets the ID right as it's ID range is so small but obviously a lot of other targets will fall into that range also so you'll dig a lot of other targets trying to get that $2 coin.
Is a newer F75 like that going to be giving a better Target ID on coins than my old first edition T2?, I believe it's from 2007. If so it's the perfect machine for my wife, she loves my T2's comfort levels but prefers my GBP's ability to ID targets.
Keep in mind this is a decision based on my wife and coin hunting and not serious coin hunting, the occasional hunt for a bit of fun but I have to make it as easy for her as possible, she likes the comfort of my T2 but wants more accurate ID's. If I don't make it fun and easy for her, she doesn't want to do it and I like her doing the occasional hunt. I like it has a backlight too as I often coin hunt at night as I never do it with people around, I hate all the tourists coming up asking me questions like "what are you doing"
My other option is to pay a lot more and get her a Nox 600 but I'm hesitant on that as she won't use it much and I don't like the idea of a fixed battery on a machine that doesn't get used often, I much prefer the AA's of the F75 in that situation.
Is there anything I would appreciate with an F75 that I don't already have with my other detectors? I should add the F75 has had so little use it's not even flattened the first batteries.
For those thinking I let her use my Nox on those occasions it's not happening, that thing doesn't leave my hands, I'd rather buy her one 🙂
The group I detect with here in Eastern Oregon are mostly interested in gold hunting and we own and hunt with Minelabs, Gold Bug 2's and a few others. Many of my friends who are nearing retirement, have asked what I would recommend to hunt parks, schools, etc. for coins and I just don't know what to tell them, realizing that many wouldn't be able to afford some of the new machines. Could some of you familiar with coin hunting give me a list of their favorites, including less pricey older models. Thanks Guys.
Hi guys, a fellow forum member here in Australia detected what I presume is an eagle buckle a few days ago (guessing US in origin). Any help in identifying it would be appreciated.
As a side note, we have had a few US Civil War buckles found this year in Oz, most would probably have originated from US prospectors trying their luck our goldfields.
When I refer to lower ferrous could be confusing. I actually am talking about ferrous line being lower on screen hence a higher ferrous number.
Depth itself of a nonferrous target can effect how high a ferrous reading is provided on Etrac screen.
Iron, rust, nail or nails can also drive ferrous number higher.
Ground mineralization levels will drive ferrous number readings. Higher mineralization soil will usuallynread higher ferrous numbers on targets of equivalent depth vs soil of milder mineralization.
The orientation, size of target can drive ferrous number also.
So the total detecting scenario will be evaluated by what the Etrac feels as to how the ferrous number reads.
New folks to Etrac will find this video definitely helpful. There are some myths out there as far as using 2 tone ferrous especially.
What the video shows I have indeed seen in the wild using Etrac and comparing.
Etrac users wanting more detailed info on this topic see this link (Etrac Manual) pages 63-66.
Innthe video I stand to correct myself. I state the tone break built in Etrac using 2 tone ferrous is 19, it is actually 17 ferrous where the detector transactions as far as reporting a higher tone or lower tone.
https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/4065/4901-0065-1.3 Instruction Manual E-Trac_Screen.pdf
A few additional comments.
Use of 2 tone ferrous.
Sometimes a user may indeed get a good signal (due to ferrous number reporting in the zone).
However coil sweep speed and or coil position, coil height— if out of whack somewhat, this could drive ferrous number of what Etrac provides hence higher ferrous number reporting could be had hence if ferrous number is high enough user will get a lower tone vs higher tone and user will keep walking.
Hiyas...I recently dug a part of a pewter flatware. I have never seen a makers mark or other identifying mark on flatware that I have dug before. Putting it under my scope, and fooling around a lot with lighting directions, this is about the best it is going to get. Any one have access to pewter manufacturer information? I am stumped so far.
The bottom is METAL, the top left looks like a B or S to me, and the right side I believe is NTA