My new T2 arrived this week so I decided I'd take it out for a test run today, I haven't bothered detecting football fields before, it never really crossed my mind to do so especially small town football fields that barely ever get used. I think the last time I even saw people on this thing was about a year ago and they were riding a horse 🙂
I guess back in time it was probably a popular place and my results today show this. This is going to be more of a picture story as the pictures tell 1000 words!
I started using the T2 with Mars Tiger coil and within two minutes of arriving I had my first coin, then another, then another..... it was nuts, coins everywhere and very little junk, I was finding nice old coins, possibly one of my oldest in a while too
1938 British Penny
The T2 was getting good depth, easily hitting on coins with good ID's, another silver!
1948 Penny - Now NZ currency, not British like the older Pennies, we used some British currency until 1967.
Prior to 1933 United Kingdom currency was the official legal tender of New Zealand, although Australian coins and notes were also generally accepted.
The first New Zealand penny was minted in 1940. The penny ran until 1965, when New Zealand stopped minting pre-decimal coins in preparation for decimilisation in 1967.
I have no idea what this thing is
This is the football field I was detecting, under the goal posts and along the end of the field had a good collection of coins, I guess from all the diving with the ball and coins in the players pockets, I don't know much about football, probably the only NZ male who has no clue about the game 🙂
My oldest find of the day, a British 1912 One Penny
It was quite deep down but the T2 banged on it real hard with a solid ID. At this point I decided I'd go home and gear up better as this place obviously has a lot of good old coins. I was only using my T2 with Carrot and Lesche digging tool which was hard work with all the coins being so deep. I wanted a bigger coil to cover more ground but there was no way I was going to strap on the 15" Teknetics coil to continue using the T2 as it weighs a tonne. I opted for the Equinox with it's 15" coil and almost straight away after turning it on, another coin
1950 NZ One Penny. I left the bit of dirt on the coil up the top it came out of, I love when you get the impression of the coin in the soil.
Another silver, 1934 Shilling
This is the hole it came from, I always recheck my holes and I'm glad I did, another target in the hole, then another... this was crazy
3 Silvers in the hole so far, 1934 Shilling, 1934 Shilling and a 1946 Sixpence, I was sure this was it but I did another check and off to the side of the hole, ANOTHER SILVER
Another 1934 Shilling, 4 silvers in one hole, incredible! Someone had a bad day.
1964 Sixpence... the coins just kept coming, all old ones. No longer are they made of silver in 1964...
Nice and deep though
My first modern coin, a $2
But look how deep it was, it was deeper than a lot of far older coins.... weird!
Another two in one hole, just one cent coins from back when NZ had one cent coins.
Another coin leaving a cool impression of itself in the soil, just a one cent I think
It sure a lot of ground to cover, I'll be at this place for weeks... plenty more coins to find I'm sure. Time to head back to the car, with my coil to the soil.
Another for the road 🙂 Double sided impression on the soil with this one. I couldn't possibly put up a photo of every coin find as there were just too many, all in about 3 hours detecting.
The good stuff
The bad stuff... not a bad ratio, good stuff far outweighed bad stuff, unusual for me.... I'll be back there tomorrow.... and the next day.... and the next day 🙂
By Steve Herschbach
Is there anyone that for any reason still prefers the older version 1.5.0 software over the newer 1.7.5? If so, why? Just curious.
Equinox - How To Check Version Or Rollback To Older Version
Thread asking same question a year ago
Today I visited my second playground Since getting the NOX 600. I’m getting comfortable with the machine. After reading quite a bit of the Minelab Essentials gaining new knowledge about the machine I was excited to jump back out today. I decided to hit a playground with the 1 hour that I had. This is the second play ground I have hit as of recently, both were similar, had the wood chips everywhere.
The first time, it was extremely difficult! This second time has been just as difficult even after all the new tips I’ve learned. What happened is there were so many weak and choppy signals, practically every where. I assume this is due to trash being littered everywhere since you know, kids are there a lot and kids tend to litter more often. It was strange that I checked half of the playground in an hour and I got not 1 good signal though.
I was on Park 2 since assuming it’s more dense with trash and I wanted to be stronger for gold jewelry, Sensitivity had to be at about 16 due to bad EMI. I made sure to auto balance and ground balance. Is there anything else I should have done to help myself? The signals I would get would be extremely weak or it sounded as if there were targets everywhere so when I’d find one that I thought was decent I would try to pinpoint the target however when I was in pinpoint mode, it would give me 100% strong signals on an half of a sweep like 2 feet long. This made pin pointing very difficult so I wasn’t sure if it was falsing or if this is just the nature of wood chipped playgrounds. This happened in my first playground a couple weeks ago as well. I just chalked it up as a very trashy area.
also I would lose signals after finding them. A 13 4” down would pop up for a moment then I am no longer finding that signal and instead am finding a 26 2” deep, nearby, and then that would be gone and nothing appears which was a bit confusing. This is an example of what has happened non stop with different target IDs and depths fairly consistently.
i assume this is what it’s like to run into a difficult spot for newbs such as myself so I wanted to ask, is this a common occurrence for a playground? Are they more difficult due to extremely tough signals?
Are there any tips for detecting in playgrounds that I may find useful and others that are having the same trouble?
Also I’m extremely sorry if there is another topic that covers the information that I’m asking for.
Today I had a chance to get up at dawn and get in a quick hunt before other events of the day. I decided to go to a familiar beach since I had read the surf report and it said there could have been a 3 hour period of 3.5 ft waves at high tide from the WNW! Ok, that is not much energy but better than the 1 ft surf at 16 second intervals all week. Off I went before the mid tides would take my beach.
It was a great morning with just a bit of coolness and a partial marine layer but it didn't block the sunrise. Off in the distance you could see the planes going in and out of LAX.
My plan was for a quick walk to my location before someone else would get there and then work my way back. As it turns out there were no other detectorists on the beach this morning due to the lack of major energy in the surf. Even the surfers only had small shore break to try and catch. This was the same area where I found my fantastic David Yurman piece a couple of weeks ago.
When I walked fast I didn't locate much. I was following the black sand line and would stop on a target and circle and see if there was more but I kept up my plan for about 1.5 miles to my beach. Once there I was walking up and down the slope. This presents the biggest challenge to the Equinox because at the bottom there is lots of black sand and water and at the top it has been 4-5 hours since wet. The ground changes more. I had just a few pennies with all metal and sensitivity at 23 and iron volume up to 10 and everything else stock in Beach 1. (The other day I did a factory reset for the first time in over a year.)
I put the iron volume (0-minus 9)up to 10 because I have learned as Simon has also that fringe targets (very deep targets too) often times read negative and when they do that they get the iron tone and it is preset at about 4. I give it a louder response.
When I made my turn I found some rocks that had been washed up by the waves and I got some strong hits. Those are the can pieces that were just at the edge of the water. They were not that deep, perhaps 10 inches but they are big so just normal trash. As I worked my way back in the direction I came I worked up a bit higher than when I came in and I got my first quarter. It was deep but there wasn't much around so this is when I decided to go to 25 on the sensitivity. I rarely do this but it sounded ok so I stuck with it for this section of beach.
A pattern began to develop in the finds. There was a rather narrow 'streak' or line running parallel to the waves but 5-6 feet above the black sand line. My holes were in a narrowed zone. I was gridding now down this line and also crossing it. Targets would murmur and then you would have to interrogate them and see what number it would stick on or jump around. I got some of the wires this way. Then I got a deep signal that was negative 5-6 and I took off 6 inches and it turned positive. I went down and down and could now fit the entire coil in the hole but it was still there. I lost it a couple of times because I couldn't hear it without sticking the coil on edge into the bottom of the to hear it again. I had to put down the detector and dig with my hand/arm scoop to get deep enough but the sand was not packed. I was over half the length of the scoop into the hole when it came out. I measured and the 11 inch coil can be fit in the hole on top of itself with just a couple of inches above the sand line so I say it is a 20" deep target. It is some kind of 'pot' metal in the shape of a B. The weight is 14.4 grams.
Soon after I found a couple of other quarters and then returned the sensitivity to my normal 23 and worked my way back out the beach. I learn something all the time.
The last picture is a picture of my finds for last month. It includes the David Yurman piece.
Recently I have purchased the equinox 600 which I am very happy with. I did lots of research on different machines around the $500 mark and with Reddit’s help I went for the NOX 600. Again happy I did.
When I did some research on the differences between 600 and 800 the only biggest difference was the gold prospecting mode which didn’t seem like a huge desire for me, and some additional features like custom user profile on the 800 as well as different screen brightness adjustments plus a few other things that I didn’t feel like were a big deal compared to the cost.
One thing I am upset about though that wasn’t really brought up or it was what I would say a subtle difference in reviews, is the recovery rate between both machines. The 600 has 1, 2, and 3 recovery speeds where as the 800 goes from 1-8. It seems like being able to go higher than a 3 recovery rate in my opinion might be worth going with the 800.
I could be wrong but being able to go to a recovery of 4, 5, or 6 with the 800 takes the cake in trashier areas. It may be common sense or it may not be much of a big deal but after going through some dense areas with the 600, I find myself wishing I could run through the areas with a higher recovery than a 3.
What are your thoughts on this, is 3 enough when the next machine just about $200 more can over double the recovery rate? My recent discovery of this is causing me to feel like I want the 800 over the 600 now.
also in the manual I have noticed that when it talks about recovery rate it shows the 800 on a scale of 1-8 and the 600 shows 1-3 however 1 is under 2, 2 is under 4, and 3 is under 6 of the 800 scale. Does that by chance mean a 3 on the 600 is as powerful as the 6 on the 800?
As users know, there are a lot of setting options for the Minelab Equinox 800 (ditto for the 600, although not as many). But how many affect the detector's performance and how many fall in the category of ergonomics?
I'm going to divide the settings categories into three groups: those whose adjustment is standard fare, those whose adjustment procedure isn't obvious but can clearly affect the performance, and those which are more/less ergonomically oriented. This is just my simple classification. You can redo my calculations if you feel that one or more features belong in a different category, or if practically you can ignore a range of settings. So here goes:
1) 'Standard fare' adjustments:
a) Noise Cancel,
b) Ground Balance.
2) Performance affecting options:
a) Detect modes,
b) Operating frequencies,
c) Sensitivity (Gain),
d) Recovery Speed,
e) Iron Bias.
3) Ergonomic settings:
a) Overall Volume,
b) Threshold Level,
c) Threshold Pitch (audio frequency),
d) # of Target Tones,
e) TID breaks,
f) Target region tone pitch (audio frequencies),
g) Target region tone volumes.
Let's start with category 2 above and include all possible settings. The first two combine because not every frequency option is available in every Detect Mode. By mode:
i) --> iv) Park 1, Park 2, Field 1, Field 2: 6 + 6 + 6 + 6.
v) --> vi) Beach 1, Beach 2: 1 + 1.
vii) --> viii) Gold 1, Gold 2: 3 + 3.
So total mode and frequency options is the sum of all these = 32. Next is gain, of which there are 25 possible settings. Then recovery speed = 8 settings. Finally Iron Bias = 10 settings. Thus we now can mulpultiply these:
32 modeXfrequency * 25 gains * 8 recoveries * 10 IB's = 64,000 possible setting combinations! Can we simplify? I think somewhat, yes. Although there are 25 gains settings, probably the lowest 10 can be left off for 99% of search locations. So replace 25 with 16 and were down to 41,000 (rounded). Now I feel better. 😁
Correction: Chase Goldman (response later in this thread) points out that Iron Bias setting only applies to Multi-frequency, not to the single frequency selections. The 64,000 number above (assuming 25 gain settings) is actually 20,800 and the ~41,000 (assuming 16 gain adjustments) decreases to ~13,300.
There are a lot of ways to play around with this number. Some will say that gain is simply a 'standard fare' adjustment since you set it to the highest level that background noise will bear. But that is oversimplified in a trashy environment since targets (particularly ferrous vs. non-ferrous) are affected differently. The flipside is that ground balance sometimes isn't optimally set (at the neutral point) and forget. Native gold detectorists sometimes find better performance when adjusting a few ticks off neutral. Number of target tones (and also target pitch and volume) can play into performance in a practical sense since the human brain can take advantage of (or be adversely affected by) these.
You can think of (and set) the Equinox 800 as a simple detector. Just choose your favorite mode and then go with the defaults. This isn't new, the same can be done with the White's V3i (although if that's your plan with the V3i then save a few buck and get the VX3). But to get optimal performance you need to adjust the detector to the conditions, particularly site. There's a lot of space to cover and it's not surprising that 1 1/2 years after its release people are still finding settings that beat (in certain environments) the canned (manual suggested or otherwise determined) settings.