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GPZ 7000 ZVT Technical & Audio Questions


AussieMatt

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For proper balance the GPZ rod should be run as short as possible. I keep it just in front of my meet and at 5'11" I have nearly a foot of adjustment left on the rod. If you did same you should have no problem.

However, I observe that most people are determined to run could way out front and if you are one of those people it may not be as long as you like. Only way to know is to get your hands on one I guess.

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Here's the thought.  I'm going to use some general terms that may or may not be applicable to how the Z works.  When I speak of timing I'm not being literal its just a thought concept ok.  And I'm setting things up in my own mind as to how things work to build a better logic as to how to adjust various settings.... so some terms may be wrong but its the thought that counts and I'd like to know what other thoughts are.

 

In high yield, normal, timing is fastest.  General, normal, timing is slower. Deep normal timing is slowest and sweep speeds should be modified accordingly.  When the second modifier of difficult is added this sets timing for all three modes slower and reduces sensitivity accordingly regardless of the level set in normal.  Increasing sensitivity or decreasing will have some net benefit in each mode I feel but it depends on ground conditions.  Extreme sets timing to its lowest and seems to exhibit strong modifiers on both sweep as well as sensitivity.

Granted I can not test this as the soils here are benign but I'm following a though path to help me understand adjustments that may be useful dependent on soil and search.

 

JP had a good thing to put out about Audio Smoothing and got to sensitivity levels for various combinations in High Yield and General modes.  And I agree that sensitivity is a got function when moving between modes.

 

What I'm wondering is can a logic tree be made that will help one make selections more easily.  Or if what I'm thinking is totally off the wall.  My testing is not good but it seems to follow for various targets at depth.

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A logic tree would be very useful, as I feel we do that in our minds and sometimes create bad habits doing so. By that I mean I make incorrect assessments by finding nuggets and believing that is the setting to use.

I think the 5000 with its multitude of settings illustrated this. eg I used fine gold almost always but probably left a few signals in quieter ground. One such .4gr solid the GPZ picked up(distinct signal) at approx. 6 inches in a small clear area I`d flogged with the 5000 and others before. I feel that piece should have been recovered with the 5000.

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For proper balance the GPZ rod should be run as short as possible. I keep it just in front of my meet and at 5'11" I have nearly a foot of adjustment left on the rod. If you did same you should have no problem.

However, I observe that most people are determined to run could way out front and if you are one of those people it may not be as long as you like. Only way to know is to get your hands on one I guess.

I hadn't been able to do this with the GPZ because I have metal on by boots (which had never been a problem with the GPX machine). So today for the first time I wore shoes with no metal, shortened the rod length and the weight of the machine was much less of a burden. Do you wear non-metal boots?

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Do you wear non-metal boots?

Always except when in non-metal tennis shoes. Keeping that rod shortened up makes a huge ergonomic difference and in my case makes me slow down and work more carefully. I am determined to just take it slower and more methodically with the GPZ.

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