A friend traded me an old Tdi Sl for my old Canon DSLR with a couple lenses. The camera was old but still worked well and perhaps worth a couple hundred at most, so I threw in a telephoto lens and we had a deal. I got a dead or dying Tdi Sl in exchange. The machine would power on etc everything seems to work except it will not ground balance and sensitivity was way down to almost nothing. Ok so not dead but way out of sorts at least. The previous owner has moved on after having done something to the machine. Yes he had opened it up and poked about and tried to make adjustments or something to it. He has lots of history when it comes to pulling things appart followed by difficulty in putting them back together. Let's say this is not his first Humpty Dumpty moment, rather one of many.. Looking at the PCB there is nothing to adjust? I'll take a closer look later now that the PCB is out. At worst I figured I would get some parts etc.
Anyways, later I managed to obtain an SPP PCB and swapped them out. Plugged everything back as I would the TDI SL PCB. Sensitivity is back to normal, seems to work well. Pulse Delay as well as HI LOW ALL do not appear to work like they would on a Tdi SL , even though they are plugged into the board. It does appear to work as a Sierra Pulse Pro should. The SPP board is the latest with all the mods already done at the factory. The old White's rep in Australia has a few SPP boards left for about $70 US each. So I have an SPP for a while, until I can figure out how to repair the Tdi Sl PCB. I'll wait and see what happens. I've got a battery project on the boil and lots of real work to keep me busy. Locked down till mid August so I'll get busy playing with my projects during my spare time.
I'll compare it to my Tdi Sl LE and see if performance differs, should be the same. In the image the left PCB is SPP. right PCB is from sick Tdi Sl. I think it was a good deal and the end result satisfactory for now. Even better if I can fix the original board..
All the best.
I took my Excalibur out yesterday water hunting to an area I thought might hold some loot.....I was rewarded with a very nice Platinum ring.
The area was inundated with old bottlecaps and even though the Excal was nulling them out perfectly, it was hard going and required a good deal of patience. Because of this, I have decided to keep the TDIBH strictly for beach work as using a PI in this area would have made me quit in disgust. The detector has been reassembled back to the original Coil as I was planning on swapping out for a smaller coil for the water.
I feel too much time would be wasted using a PI in this area (And most of the areas I hunt in the water) and I needed to cover a lot of sea floor and make the most of the tides.
I feel I’m going to be a 90% VLF user for the water, based on iron and iron alloy junk plus mineralised ground is not a problem. I’ll keep the PI for the lower beach and hard pan when I do hit these areas.
I have decided to finally swap out my big 12” Dual field coil on my TDIBH for something smaller. The purpose is to use in the water.
I have some pros and cons with each model so feel free to add any ideas you have.
Coiltek Platypus 12x8. Waterproof, epoxy filled. Maybe too long on the 12” side which sees the most water resistance Detech 8” Mono. Foam filled so more buoyant but not too worried as 2/3 the size of the Dual Field coil. Good size. Waterproof. Garrett 8” Mono coil. Waterproof, epoxy filled. Good size. Suitable for lower delays? Garrett coil
By Bohemia Miner
I was on my way back from a detecting trip near Winnemucca. I stopped in at Armadillo in Grants Pass, Oregon and saw this hanging on the wall. Apparently, there are only three in existence. This one belongs to Sam. From what I understand, she received this for being the top salesperson in the company with this model.
I think this would have been a way better color than the original black!
By Steve Herschbach
On the TDI Pro the upper handle was a bolt on assembly with separate part numbers The prototype models has a straight shaft, and the production models an S shaft. In either case you could remove the handle via four bolts to hip or chest mount the control box.
Since the production models went S shaft, there were aftermarket straight shafts. Here is the Anderson aftermarket straight shaft for the TDI Pro:
Does anyone have any part numbers for the original TDI upper handle?
The SL models the handle does not normally separate (attaches from inside the control box) and so only White’s or White’s dealers would have access to the part number for the upper straight shaft or S shaft.
The straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 or S shaft 802-5213 is standard on many whites detectors, and there is a “tall man” version 500-0240-1 of the S shaft.
Does anyone know or have access to part numbers for the handle on the TDI SL, either straight or S shaft?
The TDI Beachunter uses a removable shaft that can probably be retrofitted to the SL models with some drilling.
This appears to be the White’s Diver Rod Kit, part # 802-5195-1, with straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 added, and may retrofit to the SL with some drilling.
White’s Diver Rod Kit
One of the best deals going in a rod assembly for years has been the Whites Space Saver Rod Kit for Classics and Early Goldmaster models, part number 802-5236. This may also retrofit the the SL and is in any case a good way to get some Whites Rod parts cheap. While they last.
White’s Space Saver Rod Kit
If anyone has any information they can add about any TDI model rod or shaft parts, now would be a great time to archive it while it’s still halfway easy to track down.
By Kaolin washer
this machine is new have used it for about a month never droped it or abused it , this is what is happeneing when i turn it on ,it starts overloading and moaning but only in the All or high position if i turn to low its a quite as a mouse turn it to all and it starts moaning and will not stop , any ideas?