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Diy Equinox One Piece Straight Shaft


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8 hours ago, dewcon4414 said:

My advice...... if its being used in the water, make the head a little smaller and increase the size of the rubbers being used.  Also.... use round easily obtainable rubbers.   You wont get nearly the wear on the head and coil ears.  Im betting it needs to be a bit longer where it goes into the lower shaft or it wont stay in place no matter how strong the epoxy.

Like the design...... nice and clean.   But ..... my shaft is 52" long i like a long swing for beach hunting..... there goes that price tag.   I made one as well but with CF.   You can use the ML cuff and lower and without needing the handle your costs are really reduced........ all you need is the shaft and to drill some holes.  It allows you to set the handle where you want it too.  Personal choices here i think..... some like that second coil on its own lower.... they seem to think its faster to put on....... what 2 seconds..... for what price by time they buy that second lower shaft?   Its all cost saving.   I like the ML cuff stand....... but prefer metal that you can heat and adjust to your arm.

 

When you say make the head smaller, do you mean narrower so the sides don't make contact with the coil ears? I thought my rubbers looked like they had a lot of wear for the amount of time I've used the detector, I don't adjust the coil often and keep the screw pretty snug.

Yes I will make the stub longer with some grooves in it for the epoxy, that was just to save printing time last night. Just enough to see if it fits in the tube.
I would be open to considering suggestions for different washers, though I'm kinda reluctant. I kinda like using the factory rubbers, mainly because it's done and I don't have to look for washers, but your right durability wise. I wonder how it would work if I just print those rubbers out of Nylon? It's not as slippery as the Teflon washers that I think you're suggesting, but its pretty slick I think.

I'm not overly concerned about adjusting the length, or the time it takes swapping coils. (I break down my machines often anyway for cleaning.) On land the lower shaft has been in the top hole on the factory shaft, I go to the second hole in the water, so with this new shaft I figure I'll split the difference.

Next I will have to decide if I want to use the Minelab arm cuff, as I would have to drill a hole to accommodate it. Like most people I find it too wide, so I'll likely make a new one. I made one for my Deus that keeps it from rolling down the hill, ? it has the feet angled away to the side so it doesn't dig into my hip. I will probably do the angled feet for this machine too. I added a picture so you can see what I mean. The Deus cuff measures 100mm I think and the Equinox is closer to 110mm wide. I've kinda thought about doing an adjustable version, one you could just tighten down in the field with a big wing-nut or plastic knob. For now I think I'd settle to have a 100mm cuff again.

IMG_20180921_165644109.jpg

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yes thats exactly what im saying.   In fact on the Xcal many of us went to a whites lower and added washers.   Ive been pretty happy with a harder rubber.... like one with nylon threads in it.   Where the problem comes in is once you squash those rubbers down there still needs to be enough to keep the ears and say sand from wearing against the head.  The Xcal is real bad about wear ... and when the coil got loose people opted to crank the bolt rather than change the rubber that wore way to fast..... the more the head wore the more they cranked...... leading to coil separation on the bottom.

Great idea about groves for epoxy.   On mine......i bought a cheap leather punch set and bought heavier sheet of gasket rubber and cut round ones.   I like your idea of making nylon ones.... thats interesting option.   I rarely take a shaft apart anymore.   Now with the Nox i can use the standard shaft as a travel shaft.

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On my modified carbon rod I used a  1 Nylon pad to define the size of the coil attachment .. it is better than the thicker rubber base ...

september 4 2018 iphone 5S 023_DxO.jpg

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Tonight I did a bit of tinkering with the yoke. I printed of a washer out of Nylon to check out the fit.

I also narrowed the yoke from 22mm to 20mm as suggested by Dewcon. ?

Because the Nylon is more or less rigid, the yoke fits snugly in the hole with only one washer. So I could either make the Nylon washer a little thinner, or recess the wall behind it that it rests against. I think I might just make the washers a little thinner, that way it could still be used with the factory rubber washers if desired.

As far as I can tell, the Kevlar shaft is in the mail. There might be a postal strike later on in the week, hopefully it doesn't get caught up in that. Fortunately my 6" coil came in the mail today along with the headphone adapter thing.

 

Test washer.jpg

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My Kevlar tube arrived today from DragonPlate.com, so I had a chance to test out the fit of the yoke.

The yoke fits well, but most importantly the outer diameter of the new tube matches that of the factory shaft, to my satisfaction at least. (22.18mm factory shaft vs 22.15mm Kevlar tube)

Even though the test yoke with the small stub fits great, I could in theory add a little more clearance when I extend the stub. I'll do at least one more iteration out of polyethylene with a longer stub, so I'll have a better idea then of how hard it will be to push in.

I can make the yoke and new arm cuff out of black or natural (white) Nylon. I am leaning towards the black because the natural Nylon will eventually get stained by the water, unless I dye it first. In reality I think the polyethylene is really all I need, however I got the Nylon for something like this so I may as well use it I suppose.

With Kevlar.jpg

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You may want to make the part of the yoke that you insert into the rod about .4mm smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the rod, presuming you will be using epoxy to bond them.  Proper epoxy gap for various epoxies averages about .2mm...and a .2mm gap would not feel "hard to push in."  That's too tight, for an epoxy gap...

Nice job -- nice tube, and nice printing of the yoke and the washers...

Steve

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I am no 3D print expert (and I still don't own one .. why ever :happy:) - but: wouldn't it be better to print the yoke lengthwise instead of top to bottom? I *think* it will be stronger for side-forces that way..

Nice project by the way!

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6 hours ago, steveg said:

You may want to make the part of the yoke that you insert into the rod about .4mm smaller in diameter than the inside diameter of the rod, presuming you will be using epoxy to bond them.  Proper epoxy gap for various epoxies averages about .2mm...and a .2mm gap would not feel "hard to push in."  That's too tight, for an epoxy gap...

Nice job -- nice tube, and nice printing of the yoke and the washers...

Steve

Sounds good Steveg, I will make the adjustments tonight.

3 hours ago, Sinclair said:

I am no 3D print expert (and I still don't own one .. why ever :happy:) - but: wouldn't it be better to print the yoke lengthwise instead of top to bottom? I *think* it will be stronger for side-forces that way..

Nice project by the way!

Thanks!

It is designed and printed this orientation so that I don't need support material. I couldn't break the polyethylene Excalibur version in my hand so it should be strong enough. The orientation doesn't actually matter if you're getting good layer adhesion. While the layer lines look like a good spot for something to fail, pieces that I have intentionally broke in the past didn't fail at a layer. They broke just like injection molded parts.

The Nylon alloy 910 I am going to use has a 8,100lbs tensile strength, 32% elongation, 72,000PSI modulus and has a Shore hardness of 85D. (Made in U.S.A. by Taulman) A little overkill never hurt anyone. ?

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Perhaps it is more relevant, if your're not using 100% infill.

Which printer are you using?

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