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**update -- Production Of Rods To Begin Tuesday!** Equinox Lower Rod Project -- Prototype Rod Successful!

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Hi all;

As some of you may know, I've been producing lower rods for the CTX 3030 for about 8 months now, selling them through the forums and my website (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) to a number of satisfied customers. Along the way, I've had several inquiries regarding whether I could build Equinox rods. My answer was always "no," as a major stumbling block was that piece that fits onto the "coil end" of the rod, i.e. the piece to which the coil attaches -- the "yoke," or "clevis," as I call it.

Well, with requests for me to build Equinox lower rods so frequent that eventually I couldn't ignore it any longer, I set my mind on working on a design for that clevis/yoke piece. Once I came up with a working design idea, I submitted engineering drawings of my design to the machining/fabrication company that supplies my CTX rod parts, and asked if they could build me a prototype. Meanwhile, I ordered a carbon-fiber tube from my tube supplier, in the precise diameter to fit inside the Minelab Equinox middle rod, and also some washers specific to my yoke/clevis design. The tube and washers arrived recently, and just today, the yoke/clevis was delivered. I'm pleased to say that it turned out perfectly! All the dimensions are correct/exacting, and I "test fit" the parts with success -- please see the pictures below. The only parts I'm still waiting on are the push-button "spring clip" for the upper end of the rod, and a specialized drill bit for drilling the hole for the spring clip. Those will be here soon -- and at that point my "proof-of-concept" prototype rod will be ready for me to use!

MEANWHILE, given the successful prototype, I am ordering parts tomorrow to make a first batch of 20 Equinox lower rods. As I said above, these rods are designed to fit seamlessly into the Minelab EQX middle rod -- exactly as the Minelab stock lower rod does. I plan to build them the same length as the Minelab lower rod as "standard practice," but can also build them to whatever length desired. I expect to have the first batch of rods available for sale in roughly 4 weeks. Tentatively, I expect pricing to be roughly $60 plus shipping -- but will know for sure once I place that first "bulk" order of carbon fiber tubes and yoke/clevis pieces.

If you have any interest one of these lower rods, please let me know, and I'll be sure to have one available for you.

THANKS!

Steve

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EQXandcoil4small.JPG

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It looks great! Awesome work.

I'll be interested in purchasing one when they're ready...

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Thanks for the kind words, PseudoShooter!

I'll put you on the "interested" list!

Thanks!

Steve

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Looks like a piece of artwork it is so nice! Great build with lots of potential for sales.

Good luck.

Cliff

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Thanks, Cliff!  I really appreciate the kind words!

Steve

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I looked into getting a one-piece shaft but I realized it would defeat the ability to break the Nox down for transport.

I think then that having a super-stiff lower end (where all the lateral forces are) would probably help to reduce or eliminate any shaft wobble. 

I know my girlfriend appreciates a super-stiff lower end too 😄

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Pseudo -- 

LOL!  

I am really not sure where the "shaft wobble" that some talk about actually originates within the rod system, as I have two Equinoxes and neither of them wobble at all.  From what I've been told, it might be the lower cam lock -- the one on the middle rod that secures the lower rod to the middle rod.  But, whatever the case, I am thinking that I will, as a "standard," make these lower rods just a bit longer than normal.  Of course, I can build them to whatever length someone might want, up to about 31" or 32", but I think maybe my "default" length might be 26" or 27" (instead of the stock length that is around 24" I believe).  I don't THINK that a slightly longer lower rod would make the Equinox, when collapsed, any more difficult to travel with, but on the other hand, I think having an extra 2" or 3" in length inside the middle rod might also help at least a little bit, with possible "wobble."  It might not SOLVE the issue, if someone has a wobbly Minelab rod system, but it might be a more secure setup which might keep "wobble" from developing for those who aren't having the wobble issues in the first place.

Steve

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Hi, all...

Just wanted to mention that I expect to have the first batch of lower rods ready in about 10 days, and will post them on the "for sale" forum here, when they are ready.  Price for Detector Prospector forum members will be $58 plus shipping...

If you have any questions, please let me know; I expect the rods, and some information, to be available at my website (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) at about the same time the rods go up for sale.

Thanks!

Steve

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That shaft wabble comes from having a single instead of double spring clip IMO.  It allows the coil to move ....and with 3 piece to the puzzle.... things tranfer that movement.   As far as not being able to break it down.   MOST all of mine are 1 or 2 pieces..... and i rarely do a break down...... BUT  now ML gave us that 3 peice shaft that most WANTED or at least complained about not having with a water machine you could travel with.    Mine is tucked away.... who knows i may go on a trip lol.

Shafts look good Steve.    

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Thanks Dew!

A big part of the wobble issue is, IMO, traceable back to the cam locks.  That's something I plan to solve, when my "complete shaft" is ready...  

Meanwhile, for now, as far as just the lower rods go, I will be making them about 3" longer than standard (though I will make them to any custom length desired), which should help a bit with stability, and I certainly COULD put a double spring clip in, for anyone that wants it to be done that way (which, though, would of course require the buyer to drill "through" holes in their middle, aluminum shaft).

Again, though, the real solution to the "wobble" will come with the complete shaft system, which is in the final design stage (again -- the focus is on that cam lock/clamping system -- as that's the part that needs to be "perfect" to yield a good, stable shaft.

Steve

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