I wanted to give an update on the GARRETT shafts (middle and lower sections) that I've been working on, at Steve's Detector Rods. The first batch of 10 prototypes are complete (I made them in four different colors -- black, green/black, red/black and blue/black), and I am VERY pleased with the result -- I think they have turned out great! The two shaft sections are connected by one of my heavy-duty clamp-type cam locks (as used on my Equinox shafts), which eliminates the twist-lock and the spring button/button-hole design that is used for attachment of these two shaft sections, on the Garrett shaft.
AS A RESULT, my shaft offers four benefits over the stock middle and lower shaft sections...
LIGHTER WEIGHT. My carbon-fiber middle and lower shaft sections offer a 20% weight reduction over the stock Garrett middle and lower sections. (My two-piece shaft weighs 5 ounces +/- .1 oz or so, whereas Garrett's two sections weigh 6.1 ounces +/- .1 oz or so). FASTER/EASIER INSTALLATION AND SHAFT LENGTH ADJUSTMENT. With no twist lock and no spring button/button holes to fumble with, attachment of the lower shaft to the middle shaft is quick and easy; simply flip open the clamping lever on the cam lock, insert the lower rod section into the middle shaft section, and lock the clamping lever closed! UNLIMITED ADJUSTMENT LENGTH OF THE LOWER ROD SECTION. Again, with no spring button/button holes on the shaft, you can quickly and easily adjust the lower rod to ANY desired length, as opposed to having your lower rod adjustment length confined to pre-determined button-hole locations. IMPROVED AESTHETICS/VISUAL APPEARANCE. The high-quality, attractive look of carbon fiber offers an upgrade the look of your Garrett machine. And, you can add even more visual appeal -- making your AT- or Ace-series machine really "stand out" from the crowd -- by choosing one of a number of custom colors for your carbon-fiber shaft. A green/black prototype shaft is pictured, below!
If you have any interest in upgrading to a carbon-fiber shaft for your AT- or Ace-series machine from Garrett, contact me via PM, by email at email@example.com, or via Facebook message (www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods).
I figured I should post this here as I posted the information elsewhere on the forum that's less relevant than here.
Our extremely innovative Russian friends have managed to make a range of aftermarket coils for the Equinox, they remove the security chip out of your coil, reseal your coil and give you an adapter which then allows you to run aftermarket coils. They make a range of sizes too. My pick of the bunch would be the 9.5x5.5!
That's the range of sizes and pricing in Russian currency.
You can find out more about it here on these Russian forums, you'll have to use Google translate or something similar to read it.
And videos from them about the coils
and lucky last 🙂
When nobody can do it, the Russians do and they do it well.
I want make me sure if my program on my Detector is properly set or..
I own Equinox for 4 weeks and walked lot of km with it (90% of time on field). But I am still little confused about my settings to forest. I tryied with settings: field 1, 5 tone, disc -9 to 0, Rs 4 and iron bias 2. Our woods is pretty clear, so I can get more depth. (I am coin hunter)
What I read or what I heard is that park 2 is more to depth than field 1..
But park 2 is more for dirty locations..
I'm from central Europe and local old silver coins are differently conductive because of their age and and size.
what would you recommend? Park or field settings?
I'm still trying to understand it and I'm still learning. I will be glad for your advice, I have not read anything about the forest anywhere in the topic.
PS: sorry for my english I'm not native speaker
Which do you think will hit deeper on wet sand? I'd prefer a TDIBH over a DF but I'm budget limited.