Jump to content

Recommended Posts

What do you guys think about these?

I made them initially because it’s what I need but...

I’ve got a small batch of Carbon shafts for the Minelab Equinox that are perfect for shortening your detector right up for transport or water type detecting, for a fully collapsed detector you’ll have shave down or melt the small plastic locating pin on the handle clamp to let the inner shaft come in and get the last 100mm of retraction.

They look superb, have no wobble or slop and are a lot lighter than the stock shaft (110g vs 186g)

Even when fully collapsed and the aluminium clamp Is within the coils proximity it has no effect on detection depth, sensitivity or ID surprisingly.

Taking PRE-ORDERS for a discounted price of AUD$75.00  ~USD$54.00

They are very limited so definitely be quick as most are already gone!


All comments welcome ?









  • Like 7

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Very nice-looking shaft you've got there!


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you put a video up of one? It looks like something I could use.  A bit iffy on the alloy clamp though... Is it away from the coil when at full length? 

I think I need to place an order but I see on your site it says they're sold out.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not so surprising........ we used to have metal coil bolts.   They move with the coil so the machine doesnt react to them...... but what some found out is that they could cause dead spots on the coil where sensitivity was reduced.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the alloy clamp is exactly where the lower cam lock used to be so absolutely out of the way ?

Yes sold out! I’ll have some more within 3 weeks though ? 

Essentially it collapses down to a CTX form factor but still fully extends

Ill try and get video on YouTube demoing it





  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok sold, let me know when you've got more and I'll bang in an order! Thanks.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Now, depending on what length everyone here has there detector at for normal operation I can cut down the carbon to a custom length for you so it’ll collapse even further when not in use or when in the water etc.

Currentlythe carbon rod is equivelant  length to the alloy shaft and does collapse 200mm shorter than it BUT most people probably don’t even use their equinox at full length so for example I’m 6’2” and I use the equinox at the 4th pin hole from the bottom so I could further shorten it by 6” (150mm) and have a very compact shaft that’ll be ideal for me in any situation.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice to see.  I very often have mine set at the 4th pin hole as well because it's usable to detect with and quickly fits in vehicles at that length.  However I'm still occasionally pushing it to the 2nd hole as it feels like a more natural swing for me.  I might be willing to give that up though for the ability to get really short for water use.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, sometimes it’s nice to lengthen the detector out and just do broad swings letting the centrifugal forces hold it up but I generally run at 4.

To be honest it’s perfectly divable as is and I feel no need for it to be shorter other than convenience when transporting.

Which set of holes does everyone use for their arm cuff?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By GB_Amateur
      I know there's a long and old thread discussing this topic and other Equinox ergonomics but I decided not to bury this post there.  In the last few months I've had some minor issues with the elbow on my swing arm ("tennis elbow" according to my doctor) but worse, recently I've been having wrist pain on the same arm.  I don't know if the latter is related to detecting but it reminded me of the above linked discussion (and others) about S- vs. straight-shafts.  I don't know if the mod I now describe is new.  (After 2 years in the users' hands I would have thought not, but don't recall it on this site, anyway.)  Here's a picture of the almost finished garage mod:

      In a nutshell, I've replaced the two lower sections of the Equinox shaft with the two lower sections of the Minelab X-Terra shaft.  Now I'll start at the bottom and work my way up, describing the differences.
      Coil to shaft attachment:  Surprisingly (because it seems like Minelab changes dimensions, etc. on every new detector) the gap between the ears is almost a perfect fit.  It seems to be slightly looser with this mod, but that may be simply due to wear on the gaskets.  I measured the shaft's widths and they are very close, possibly about 0.005 inches (~0.1 mm) different.  Different gaskets or just a metal or plastic shim could tighten things up, but for now I'm not going to do that.  Next is the screw/bolt and nut.  The X-Terra had a nominal 1/4 inch diamter bolt while the Eqx is larger, (I think it's 8 mm, slightly larger than the SAE 5/16 inch).  Again, until I find out otherwise I'm not going to be concerned about this as the smaller bolt goes through both parts just fine.
      Lower shaft section composition:  The Eqx has a carbon fiber lower shaft section whereas the X-Terra has an aluminum shaft with a plastic extension/insert for the coil attachment section.  I did a quick test-garden check and the mod didn't appear to give any deterioration in performance.   5 in. deep penny and 6 in. deep US nickel, in moderately mineralized soil, I could turn gain down to 5 and still (barely) hear both in Park 1, recovery speed = 5, Iron Bias F2 = 5.  Again, at this point good enough for me.
      Middle shaft section:  This is the S-section.  The smaller diameter of this part is why you can't use the Equinox's lower section -- its diameter is too large to mate with the X-Terra S-section.

      Middle shaft section (X-Terra) to upper shaft section (Equinox) mating:  This is where things get a bit more complicated.  The O.D. of the X-Terra shafts is right at 3/4 (0.75) inch whereas the Equinox is ~0.78 in.  This 0.03 (~3/4 mm) difference is not acceptable as is.  I used 0.0015 in thick copper tape to build up the X-Terra shaft.  The tape's adhesive adds some thickness as well.  I needed 15 inch length of tape for a complete wrap to make up the difference.  (Note:  I'm going to add another equivalent wrap above the alignment pin as well, but as of now -- shown in the photo -- I only have the one wrap.)  Next, note that the X-Terra has two alignment pins compared to the single one for the Equinox.  Turns out they are 90 degrees out-of-phase.  In addition, the pin size (and thus hole diameter required) is different, this time slightly larger on the X-Terra.  I'm going to drill two opposing holes in the upper Equinox shaft.  Again it appears that the X-Terra was made to SAE dimensions and a 1/4 inch hole is the right size.  To make sure I don't get more hole than I need, and to avoid the sloppy 'triangular' hole that standard jobber drill bits tend to make in thin sheet metal, I've ordered a 1/4 inch reamer from Amazon for the job.
      Weight difference:  The X-Terra lower sections and the attachement bolts & nuts are 80 g. (~2 2/3 oz. or ~0.2 lb) heavier than the equivalent Equinox pieces.  I assume this is due at least in part to the carbon fiber composition but the tubing (and other pieces) may also be contributing.
      Potential concerns:  I start by pointing out that I'm not a beach/water hunter.  Apparently the drag, etc. in that form of detecting puts more mechanical stress on the connections and parts in general.  In particular, drilling two more holes for the alignment pins in the upper section shaft (which unfortunately are located right at the same location as the already present hole) will result in a weakening of the shaft there.   I don't think that will be an issue for me, but water hunters (who apparently prefer straight shafts anyway) could be scared away from this mod.  I suppose one might be able to buy a replacement upper section from Minelab....  Those holes are the only thing that keeps this mod from being purely 100% reversible and assuming they don't result in future breakage, I have the best of both worlds.  (Of course it helps to have an X-Terra sitting around collecting dust!)
    • By Yellowstone
      Recently I was beach hunting with a friend (EQX 600) who detected almost exclusively in pinpoint mode and did very well.  After watching him pull several silver coins out of the black sand and cobble, I asked him to let me try to hit his next target.  Sure enough, my 800, beach 2, recovery 4, F2=0, full horseshoe, did not hit a silver dime.
      A few days later, I spent 3 hours trying his method.  Using the same settings, beach 2 hit about 90% of the targets.  The targets it missed were silver dime, wheat penny and copper bracelet.
      Does anyone know what frequency is used in pinpoint or what is different than regular modes?   I tried targets in all metal with no success.
    • By phrunt
      Detect-ED have released an alloy Arm Cuff for the Nox.  I very much disliked my plastic arm cuff for my Nox so I ordered a metal one from Ukraine.  It's been great and a big improvement over the plastic one, it's probably not ideal for salt water use as it will eventually rust.  Detect-ED being very much focused on water hunting as he's a water hunter himself has made an alloy version.  It's looking very solid and good quality and they have a free worldwide shipping promo going at the moment for it that ends on the 2nd of February.

      You can tell it will be nice and solid on the shaft.

      The Detect-Ed Alloy Arm Cuff is a high-quality CNC cut aluminium part, with smooth edges all round. It is designed primarily to replace the fragile plastic arm cuffs found on many metal detectors! 
      The cuff is designed to be ergonomic as it hugs the arm rather than the sloppier fit of most modern machines. The placement is not dictated by the holes on your shaft, allowing you to bolt it in your preferred position.
      We designed the arm cuff without padding so that it's compatible with submerged and wet environments. However, the low profile button heads are essentially unnoticeable on your forearm and product testers have confirmed this. It also has rounded edges for comfort

      The arm strap points are lower than some standard cuffs meaning your arm is strapped down snugly in place rather than bouncing off the walls of the cuff.
      This product comes with everything included to easily install it on your detector!

      Fits Most Metal Detectors:
      - Fits on 7/8" or 22mm diameter shaft.
      - Fits Minelab Equinox 600 & 800, Excalibur & Gold Monster
      - Fits most Whites Detectors
      - Fits most Garrett Detectors (AT Pro, Gold, Max and Ace Series)

      What's In The Box?
      - Anodized Aluminium Arm Cup and Stand
      - 2 x Aluminium Tube Clamp sets
      - 4 x 316 Marine Grade Low-Profile Stainless Bolts
      - 4 x 316 Marine Grade Nyloc Nuts
      - 1 x Webbed Velcro Arm Strap
      - 1 x Hex Key Tool
      - 1 x Spanner Tool
    • By steveg
      Hi all!

      I wanted to give an update on the GARRETT shafts (middle and lower sections) that I've been working on, at Steve's Detector Rods. The first batch of 10 prototypes are complete (I made them in four different colors -- black, green/black, red/black and blue/black), and I am VERY pleased with the result -- I think they have turned out great! The two shaft sections are connected by one of my heavy-duty clamp-type cam locks (as used on my Equinox shafts), which eliminates the twist-lock and the spring button/button-hole design that is used for attachment of these two shaft sections, on the Garrett shaft.

      AS A RESULT, my shaft offers four benefits over the stock middle and lower shaft sections...
      LIGHTER WEIGHT. My carbon-fiber middle and lower shaft sections offer a 20% weight reduction over the stock Garrett middle and lower sections. (My two-piece shaft weighs 5 ounces +/- .1 oz or so, whereas Garrett's two sections weigh 6.1 ounces +/- .1 oz or so). FASTER/EASIER INSTALLATION AND SHAFT LENGTH ADJUSTMENT. With no twist lock and no spring button/button holes to fumble with, attachment of the lower shaft to the middle shaft is quick and easy; simply flip open the clamping lever on the cam lock, insert the lower rod section into the middle shaft section, and lock the clamping lever closed! UNLIMITED ADJUSTMENT LENGTH OF THE LOWER ROD SECTION. Again, with no spring button/button holes on the shaft, you can quickly and easily adjust the lower rod to ANY desired length, as opposed to having your lower rod adjustment length confined to pre-determined button-hole locations. IMPROVED AESTHETICS/VISUAL APPEARANCE. The high-quality, attractive look of carbon fiber offers an upgrade the look of your Garrett machine. And, you can add even more visual appeal -- making your AT- or Ace-series machine really "stand out" from the crowd -- by choosing one of a number of custom colors for your carbon-fiber shaft. A green/black prototype shaft is pictured, below!
      If you have any interest in upgrading to a carbon-fiber shaft for your AT- or Ace-series machine from Garrett, contact me via PM, by email at steve@stevesdetectorrods.com, or via Facebook message (www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods).



    • By phrunt
      A decent video comparing targets on the Vanquish Vs the Equinox.
      The Vanquish really looks like the perfect first detector for someone, easy to use, built based on the Equinox so performance is pretty damn impressive.
    • By phrunt
      I figured I should post this here as I posted the information elsewhere on the forum that's less relevant than here.
      Our extremely innovative Russian friends have managed to make a range of aftermarket coils for the Equinox, they remove the security chip out of your coil, reseal your coil and give you an adapter which then allows you to run aftermarket coils.  They make a range of sizes too.   My pick of the bunch would be the 9.5x5.5!

      That's the range of sizes and pricing in Russian currency.
      You can find out more about it here on these Russian forums, you'll have to use Google translate or something similar to read it.
      Original thread
      More information
      And videos from them about the coils
      and lucky last 🙂
      When nobody can do it, the Russians do and they do it well.
  • Create New...