Jump to content
Yellowstone

Beach Hunting Recovery Speed

Recommended Posts

On 11/30/2018 at 5:56 PM, Yellowstone said:

I have had good success with the 800 using factory settings.  Lately, the beach targets have slowed down significantly due to fewer tourists and more detectorists.  Will a slower recovery speed give more depth and increase targets?  Let me add I use beach 1, all metal, sensitivity around 22.

Everyone has to figure out what works out on their beach, but I personally do not see recovery speed tied to depth,  in the 3-6 range. However no doubt the higher sensitivity you can run the better. I think Clive has pointed out how a "high" recovery speed  can stabilize the unit in salt, therefore you may be able to run a higher sens. 

Myself, I HATE a detector that chatters too much on the beach.  I find that the time period of the low tide and the ability to cover more ground[sand] FAR out weighs trying to scrub every faint signal/false signal on the beach.  In a 3-4 hr period I need to complete 1 1/2 mile section of beach at the tides lowest point, if my detector is chirping too much for me to do this, I will have left possible targets in the sand. 

Looking at my notes from last season there were 4-6 days in the 45 days I worked that no chatter/falsing would have been mandatory. 

Dave

   

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats Yellowstone, Thats a beauty and one giant honker.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congratulations Yellowstone! Great looking ring. Awesome find!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

According to the manual...... only gold mode has a true threshold that can affect targets.   So..... basically its additional noise to be used to hear iron blanking. .... which you can do the same thing by turning it OFF and running the iron bin lower and using AM.   Which will give you more information and act like background threshold.

Recovery and sensitive are very similar.   3 can be chatty on a hard pan running at 18....... yet switch to 4 it smooths out and can allow say a sensitivity of 20.  But to me th higher the recovery..... the short the tone response.  In the Dry sand most of the time field 2 is a better choice depth wise than beach 1.   In or near the water .... you get a concentration of layers black sand..... which you can hear if you run N. to S. (which a lot of hunters do).   Beach 2 is a better choice........ but if you grid E to W WITH the grain so to speak beach 1 works better and is deeper..... and may allow running 3 and higher sensitivity like.... 22 or 23.   Big factor here is EMI.... which can reduce depth as well.

Just saw the ring....... wow cant argue with success..... great find. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks DC.  It's always beneficial to get additional information from other detectorists.  Depending on how I feel, I run N to S and E to W at various times.  Never thought about alternating between Beach 1 and Beach 2 when changing direction.  Also your comments on IB and threshold have sent me back to drawing board.  To be honest, I never considered (or even looked at) the IB and threshold settings.

I'm just now beginning to realize how many different tools are available on the 800.  Back to the classroom for my next quiz.

Thanks again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been doing quite a bit of beach detecting the past couple of weeks and was reaching for my other detector more than my Nox as I found the Nox was giving me broken signals on deeper targets with poor ID's, I was running the 12x15" coil, after my other detectors battery went flat I was using the Nox again and messed around experimenting with settings to try improve its performance, I was running Beach 1 with sensitivity at 24 and all was well except when I found deeper targets and even some not so deep targets, the signals were all over the place.  I had auto ground tracking on as the beach required regular ground balancing but I often tried balancing right at the target to see if it helped which it didn't.

After trying various things I found lowing the recovery speed to 4 was the best solution to my problem, it cleaned up the scratchy target signals / target ID's a fair bit and I was now happy with the Nox again....  Is a lower recovery speed better with the larger coil on the beach? I remember last time I used the Nox at the beach I was using the stock coil and didn't have this problem, sure it was a different beach and I don't often do beach detecting, I'm no expert by any means. 

My settings were all defaults on Beach 1 in the dry, Beach 2 in the wet with sensitivity at 24, noise cancel done although didn't seem necessary and I did a manual ground balance then turned on auto, Nothing else was changed except when I found lowering the recovery to 4 helped quite a bit.

Was this a problem with the beaches I was on or the 12x15" coil? Does it work better with a lower recovery speed?  I don't recall this problem with the stock coil on my last beach detecting trip.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Phrunt,

Only had the 15" since Christmas, so about 20 hours on the beach.  Like you, I was at first disappointed with sensitivity to coil knock, target ID/scratchy signals.  I lowered recovery to 4 in the wet and am now a happy camper.  In the dry, I run recovery 5 and am amazed how quiet it is and also the machine's ability to sniff out small targets.  Also have spent some time using Field 2, recovery 5 in the dry with pretty good results.  Usual settings are Beach 1, sensitivity 22-23, Beach 2, 22-23.

For me, targets ID's do vary from the stock coil, especially our despicable zincoln pennies which can register from 12 to 24.  I have dug some US clad quarters that registered -6 on ID at first pass.  After the first scoop of sand is removed, the signal is more in line with what I am used to seeing.  That could be because the target is deeper.  With that, I am pretty much digging every repeatable solid signal, even if it falls in the iron range.

I definitely need more time with this coil.  Sweep speed is slower, but covers as much ground as normal speed with the stock coil.  Beaches here are pretty sanded in so targets are few.  Got some storms coming in and hopefully they will strip off some of the overburden.

Will keep you posted.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Yellowstone said:

Phrunt,

Only had the 15" since Christmas, so about 20 hours on the beach.  Like you, I was at first disappointed with sensitivity to coil knock, target ID/scratchy signals.  I lowered recovery to 4 in the wet and am now a happy camper.  In the dry, I run recovery 5 and am amazed how quiet it is and also the machine's ability to sniff out small targets.  Also have spent some time using Field 2, recovery 5 in the dry with pretty good results.  Usual settings are Beach 1, sensitivity 22-23, Beach 2, 22-23.

 

Thanks, I've found target ID's have moved up a tiny bit with the 12x15", our $1 and $2 coins were always 21 on the Target ID, now $1 is 21, $2 is 22 which makes sense as the $2 is bigger but made of the same materials.  I prefer the ID change.  I will have to try recovery of 5 on the dry, I just went straight to 4 and was happy so didn't change it again.  I've used the 12x15" extensively at the ski fields and never had this problem, it only happened on the beach.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This behavior (large coil likes recovery 4) seems to be a fairly common observation.  I have heard others say the same thing.  This may be partially driven because you can go deeper with this coil than stock, so lowering recovery naturally tends to clean up those deeper targets.  But that is not really the case on the shallower iffy signal targets, so I can only guess is that they are otherwise more challenging due to their orientation or other factors.  It could also simply be that 4/5 recovery just happens to be optimal for this coil vs. stock and the 6" but I don't have solid technical theory on why that is the case.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By GB_Amateur
      As usual, some of us got off topic a few days ago on this thread:
      We got into a discussion about insect repellants, what works in some areas and for some insects, etc.  I have a question and decided to start a new thread, on this specific topic, which will also probably get hijacked. 
      My specific question to 2Valen is:  what concentration of Permethrin are you using?  I have some spray stuff but it's only 0.5% Permethrin.  I doubt that's what you are dilluting.  Also, you say "add the correct amount...".  Could you be more specific. 
      I get eaten alive by chiggers and although spray Deet works OK, they still seem to find a way around that to a limited extent.
    • By spandexlurch
      Hi everyone, first post. I'm currently new to metal detecting and I am using a loaned Whites 6000b coinmaster. I haven't dug anything but junk so far but I'm considering buying my first detector. My coworker has a Minelab CTX 3030 and I don't imagine I'll buy something that expensive as a beginner. I was looking at the Minelab Vanquish 540 or the Garrett Ace 400. I know very little about the different detectors but not looking to spend over $500 on my first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Lobo Exp
      I just recently got one of these Russian boards, which IMO looks like a good piece to work with. I read over the supplied build instructions which are fairly clear, but in a way are not totally, at the same time. I have worked with circuits quite a lot over several years, I went back to a site that discusses working with timer IC's of which in this build uses the 7555, a CMOS version of the vaunted 555 that uses 1/10th the power. This is where the MD transmitter freq. is produced. There are several ways to construct the oscillator and in the case of this design, I find one very small issue. Since as I mentioned, I just got this board and still working at putting it together, obviously I haven't tested it. Here is what I am here to discuss with anyone looking at this version, thinking about building one, or has one working. The 555 system has been know to experience unstable responses if there is no Capacitor connected from pin 5 to ground ! There is no Cap to pin 5 included in this circuit design and it uses a few other features that differ from the basic osc. circuits  A .01ufd cap which on this board can be installed on the back side of the board from pin 5 to the nearest ground buss and should be some improvement to the function and stability of the circuit, it is 'optional' and it will work without it. It is a very small mod but in my experience sometimes that is all it take to work or not. I also suggest to use .100 inch header pins for connecting any of the peripheral parts. Doing this makes it easier to R&R the board for working on it, you will need to be extra diligent about connecting everything back in the proper place but if you have gone this far with this project, that is a no brainer. There are a couple of places the .100 header pins will not fit perfectly but you can get around that with the use of a single break away pin and just a tiny bit of force to re align so your connection will fit as you continue assembly. 3 pins on the right of the rough GB Pot on board are one place, another is the 2 holes just to the right and above the 4 large elect. caps around the Vreg, LM7808 or LM7809, also using a 7809 might give you a slight bit of bump in performance. Since the circuit uses a +12v supply battery, there is still a bit of margin left so that the dropout V is going to remain above the output V of the regulator until batteries are getting too low. Using a battery carrier that holds 8 AA cells, alk or even NiM rechargeables will or should work and you should still be able to get this inside the housing. The use of NiM may exhibit an issue with the 7809 so make the choice based on what battery V you plan on using. One could also use an extra bat pack in series to push the V higher for the input, as the 78xx can handle up to 30v input, this will give you a lot more operation time before the dropout V becomes an issue. I would also think installing some reverse polarity protection here, 'NEVER a bad addition to any circuit and simple, a couple of small diodes and a fuse added to the project, around a 200 milliamp mini fuse is a good rating, put some extras inside the case. The current draw of this unit is very low so you can run your batteries way down this way and still keep going, having a small solar setup would be a good thing to have with you to boost batteries also, you could make it to fit over your hat!!! I am in the U.S. and have considered doing assembly of projects in the future,,, if my board works out. The one good thing I like about this system is that it should work with several different coils out there and one can even construct their own coil if using careful attention. Coils are really not that hard to make if you have and follow the instructions. Making the casing is probably the worst part of it, using resins and hardeners. Shielding is a bit critical here. I will mention that it is almost essential that you have an oscilliscope to build one of these for adjusting the timer section freq. the 5k pot on the left side of the 7555 and also setting amplitude on the upper right of 7555, the one just left of the 14 pin IC spot.. If you don't have a scope, there are apps online that make your PC work as one and you will have to learn how to use it, or get someone that knows to help with it. Also a transistor tester is helpful and when working with these parts, you MUST know the pins and install them RIGHT if you intend to have it work but you already know this if you are thinking about assembling one. 
    • By TreasureHunter5
      I would like to start detecting neighbors property, but I am not sure how to go about it. Does anyone have advice on asking my neighbors(who I don’t know very well) or asking people in different neighborhoods? How do I tell them there yard will not be damaged. I dig my holes in a circle in my grass and pull up the plug. I then check to see if the signal in in the hole or in the plug. Wherever it is I use a t shirt to put the dirt on and find the target. I them spill the dirt in the hole and place the plug back in the way it came out. It does look a bit brown after I do it, but as time goes by you can’t even tell. I did it in my yard lasted year, and this year you can’t even tell. Is this a good way of digging, or is there a better way? Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks!!
    • By harivney
      Thinking ahead. Will be moving closer to Clearwater and St Pete Beach Florida later this year. What metal detector would you choose for wet sand and shallow wading - an Equinox or Impulse AQ (assuming its available)?. Based on what I have read, it seems Impulse is supposed to find gold rings that Equinox has missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...