Ok, have recently read an article in another forum about fine tuning the equinox in the field. It was basically listening while in different recovery and iron bias settings to hear the best sound and using that setting. Many times , if you go on site, you end up changing between modes and then have to retune again, and that can be intense . I believe that if you sense what your detector is telling you, and then you can make adjustments on the fly. I am wondering if you do the same, and utilize one particular program as a basis to work with? With all of the horsepower and knowledge on this forum, what land and beach program do you use as a good basis for testing your settings. The second subpart to the question is do you use a program that utilizes 50 tones or 5 and do you switch between the two?
I have read and watched over the years many different thoughts ( just like a you tube cure), however I find this forum is the one that addresses issues in a more technical and believable way.
Look forward to your answers. PROP
I see way too many new hunters who hope to find some gold but think it’s the first thing they are going to find..sorry bad news–its not In most conditions, random digging is not going to do much for you. While its good to dig a lot of targets, the key is to continually work on your selectivity. By all means the way to get used to the target sounds of your detector is to to dig but along with this learning over time it’s important to be able to recognize some various basic target types. In the picture we have a nice array: too big–(cigarette pack), elongated: (Allan keys, glasses arm and bobby pins). too small and weak: (some of the smaller foils at left),, alloys (caps). Not shown here are some iron targets–(bolts, that type of thing). With practice these are all recognizable targets–they have “problems” either on the meter or when checked on the cross sweep or in pinpoint. “There are also several “good” targets–a few coins, and some of the more solid foil pieces. While it might not be as exciting as getting out and digging–just getting a few of each target type and testing them on an upside down cardboard box can increase your accuracy a lot. While there are sites where “inclusive digging” is the way to go–remember–an exception does not make a rule. Learning how good targets respond is a more productive way to learn than “going begging” with weak, elongated or out-sized signals. The “iffy” ones can come later. clivesgoldpage.com
Morning all. It's been an interesting few years for me with a change of jobs and two new family additions. After "scratching the itch" HARD last year I realized that with two young kids it's best to cool off on spending days and weeks in the bush away from the family. I still go on trips and find gold, it's just become more special and less of an every month deal. Which makes research extra-important!
In reading up on specific gold districts in certain areas, there are two main categories:
High-producing, well-known districts that have been worked from about the 1850's to 1930's, with current claims for hobbyists or small-time mining operations. These are concentrated in areas with a larger area of interesting geology. Lower producing small districts that are scattered well-away from the above larger areas that were worked from the 1850's to late 1890's and are not popular today. These are spread out, sometimes 50+ miles away from well-known districts, and feature "anomalous geology" such as a narrow sliver of surface greenstone and quartz veins surrounded by newer volcanic formations. In the past I have concentrated on well-known districts (#1) as many old timers have told me "go where the gold is." It makes sense to me - if there was a lot of gold in an area and recovery was not good, there is a bigger chance of finding some small crumbs missed by others. However these areas are well-known to all and detected by many. So I try to focus on fringe areas in these districts that are harder for people to get to.
It's "low risk, low reward," and I realize now, potentially the wrong tactic in today's world where it's getting harder to find nice chunks.
My thinking on hitting some of the smaller, scattered areas (#2) is that with less modern attention, even if there was less gold recovered, there may be more overall gold left behind by old timers. Simple target depletion - work stopped over 100 years ago, and these areas have been left alone since then, leaving more potentially good targets to find.
I'm curious what you think about following the path less-travelled to some of the smaller, less-popular districts.
Lately I've been trying to figure out how to gain new permissions during these trying times were in. I don't want to knock on doors, but I would like to be ahead of the game once this problem passes. The other day I got lucky and noticed a truck pulled over to the side of the road and stopped to see if he needed assistance , turns out it was a local property owner who was out running his dog, due to being cooped up in the house. We started to talk and I realized he was from a particular 10 acre property I wanted to hunt. So I asked him if I could hunt his property and he said yes. I usually do not get this lucky. Other than stalking property owners Ha Ha Ha , Does anybody has any creative ways to get new permissions during this mess that were in, I would be HAPPY to listen and the funnier the better. I could use a good laugh at this point in time. And by the way, I do not want to use night vision goggles to hunt. Hope all are doing well and staying safe.
18/ Understanding “Below-Zero” Accepts
I take this term from the language used with the first programmable, digital machines that came onto the market in the 1980’s. These set a benchmark for all others since. Part of the reason for this was because although they balanced out mineralization in the ground, they also examined the iron in the ground to see if there were targets mixed in with it. If you can imagine a scale of minus 100 to plus 100 with “0” being the line between non-ferrous and ferrous, these machines used “below zero accepts”. By this I mean that they were pre-set to examine part of this iron range (usually the first “30”increments) instead of just knocking it out. This created much better depth (by the standards of the day). These machines also had the ability to pick targets from amongst this iron--by hearing it too rather than just suppressing it. This is also the Anfibio’s strength--but with much more overall sensitivity. So what you have with the Anfibio is a very sophisticated level of filtering and processing that:
• -first, gathers a full and very detailed picture of what is under the coil.
• -then filters this diverse signal down to sort the (quick-responding) consistent parts from the (slow-responding) less consistent ones.
This broad, detailed initial “look” at the ground means that the detector can separate out small, deep objects as well as those that are in very close to iron very effectively. In effect the Anfibio is “reaching” down into the iron range to give the machine more detecting power. This also means that desirable targets that are coming in partly within this range are more readily detectable. Things like stainless watches, corroded targets such as long buried brass also respond better than with other machines. The “trade-off “here is that the line between ferrous and non-ferrous is blurred. This is true of all high Gain detectors. Things like round bolts and some of the more solid iron objects can jump up to overwhelm the discriminate circuit. So you have a “two edged sword.”
Where you want to get better responses from low conductors such as gold chains and earrings--you can run a lower discriminate and / or first Tone Break. However, when you do this--more iron, steel (such as bobby-pins), and other weak conductors will respond. Rather than an actual ferrous / non-ferrous line, what you have is more like a “firewall”--and as you bring the Discriminate and first Tone Break up--this “firewall” is made thicker. Learning to manage this “rust line” is a very important skill that will let you select targets with more accuracy and stabilize the unit at high Gain settings.
A low Discriminate / Tone Break setting opens the machine up to more of this “below zero” range. This comes through in the form of “crackle” and other falses. A higher setting creates a bigger reject block between the two (plus and minus) “sides.” Understanding this--and being able to choose a correct setting is the essence of running a balanced signal--distributing the unit’s power evenly and—by standard, quietly. It’s important to recognize the fact that what a detector does is not to just punch down into the ground and alert on metal. Instead--as described above--it acts to separate ground from metal. What this means is that the iron and ground’s responses form part of the signal. A good way to understand this is to think of all metal signals as being a “peak” in the larger ground’s signal.
The more of this low range you want to inhibit (block off)--the fewer targets will be available. (For hunters interested in re-working “hunted out” type sites--opening up this low discriminate range is another option that can be combined with a slow recovery speed (Deep mode) or a faster one (3 Tone) or targeted hunt methods using one of the three Frequency options).
Remember--it’s not depth that obscures targets--it’s the surrounding “noise.” The more of this “noise” you are prepared to learn to “hear though,” the more you will find.
Alternately--creating a wider, more solid bottom reject block can also reduce noise--allowing targets to “jump” though as with the Beach mode’s high Discriminate setting of “15.” This type of setting can be used either to bring the machine’s processing up above the noise level of difficult ground or salt sand, or to reduce the noise of dense iron and bring up masked signals.
From: "Successful Treasure Hunting with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi Metal Detector" by Clive James Clynick (Prestige Publishing, 2020
2/ The Anfibio’s Strengths: Audio
Every Nokta / Makro detector I try seems to have better, cleaner, more informative audio than the last. The Anfibio is also what would be termed a “high bias” detector in that when you learn to listen for extension in the response--you can become very accurate. This sharp, clean audio lets you hear a real lot of detail about what is under the coil. There are several U.K. “YouTube” videos out of hunters placing nails right on top of coins and still being able to detect the coin with the Anfibio. This is a great demo of just what this machine’s fast processing speed and high-bias performance can do for your find count at old sites.
I credit the operating characteristics of Nokta /Makro detectors with teaching me how to effectively use coil control target testing. This has found me a lot of deep gold and silver. With the speed and “clean” metal bias of a machine like the Anfibio this testing is much more effective--that is, when you use the coil to check a signal by going to the “cross-sweep”--iron and other corroded targets don’t “stay in.” Misshapen objects like scrap lead or “can slaw” are also more likely to give a broken tone. Again, good, non-ferrous responses have “extension.” What I learned was that there’s a whole other level of skill building, accuracy and effectiveness available to you with this clean audio and super-fast signal processing.
Other strengths of this detector include a great display that lets you make fast adjustments for more exact tuning or “ID-ing” This also lets you jump from mode to mode instantly to cross check responses. You can move between different frequencies (5, 14 and 20 kHz), audio modes, and recovery speeds in an instant. There’s also a versatile Discriminate package that lets you manage your target selection with accuracy.
This also a very deep and powerful detector with great small object sensitivity. The reason for this is because the Anfibio features high Gain circuitry. Gain acts to sample a tiny part of the returning signal and amplify it. This small sample is easier to manage in software and more of the distortion can be removed. So you have a cleaner, deeper signal. This means that small targets are amplified (or boosted) as they are received. Like many detector features--this is a “two-edged sword.” While small and deep responses are brought up to where there can be heard, other non-so good signals that are just across the “line” into the iron range are also amplified and may be “pulled up” to mimic good signals. For the beginner, this can be confusing as iron targets and even a few foils and crown caps are “hopped up” and may indicate as coins. However, the good news is that once you learn a few simple basic “fixes,” the downside of this tradeoff about disappears and this extra deep object punch becomes your best weapon. This takes practice, bench testing and time in the field. You could call the Anfibio a “Gain heavy” detector in that even at the presets-there will be good sounding false signals--from spikes, deep iron and some bottlecaps. As will be detailed further on--a good beginner strategy is just to “turn it down” and do some familiarization in 2 Tone audio mode. Even running at a Gain setting of “55” or “60” is a not a bad idea. This simplified less “amped up” audio will respond to these falses in more recognizable ways. An intermediate stage is to have one search mode with preset or higher Gain and a second weaker setting--to see how signals respond with less Gain. Going between the two is a great way to really get a feel for how Gain goes deeper--but at the same time brings with it considerable distortion. Targets sound fuller and better at high Gain settings. Where you see a response disappearing completely --or becoming broken in the low “checker” mode--suspect iron. Where a target just becomes weaker--this has a better chance of being a good, non-ferrous target.
Gain also acts to “fill out” small responses--making them sound bigger, fuller and better. This makes for what I’ve heard termed a “steep learning curve” for the novice as there is the urge to go after a lot of sounds that are too small to be good targets. What helps is to gather more information than just “meter and tone” using the coil and the Pinpoint control. This lets you place your signals in context--to focus on the size, shape and location in the strata of each signal. When you learn to do this--each signal feature acts to confirm the others--giving your accuracy and conclusiveness a huge boost. For example there is nothing better than hearing a high silver tone, seeing a “92” on the meter and then getting the confirming narrow Pinpoint response that indicates a non-ferrous object. I call this the “In Keeping” method. (More on this later).
Another effect of high Gain circuitry is that the detector is more likely to sound off on unusual variations in the ground. These can be patches of black sand or anything that represents a big change. So the ends of spikes, twisted wire or aluminum shards can all “sound off” on your first coil pass. This is where
Another great thing about the Anfibio is its stability. Where there is not much interference from electrical sources it’s possible to run this detector at almost coil control comes in in that these are not consistent targets and will change or disappear on the cross-sweep or with varied coil passes. Where there is not much interference from electrical sources it’s possible to run this detector at almost full Gain.full Gain. However this type of setting has a downside too in terms of the false signals that it brings up. This is where learning some of the basic skills covered in this book can be of help--letting you mediate this high power with accurate signal type recognition and checking methods. Even where you do have a lot of interference--it’s possible to run a “balanced” signal so as to be able to hear good targets though the noise. From:"Successful Treasure Hunting with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi Metal Detector. by Clive James Clynick
Reviews at: clivesgoldpage.com