Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I've been using the machine for a couple of months now with some good results. 

I've been mainly hunting in Park 2 and Field 2 modes, even though under certain conditions they produce  additional noise. 

For now, I would not like to modify any of the factory presets in any mode.

I've been staying away from park 1 because of the high iron bias setup as it can truly mask some good targets in trashy conditions. However, the detector is really quiet in Park 1 and if you have a signal, it is usually something decent. 

Field 1 on the other hand has 2 tones and 0 iron bias. I've been wondering if anyone here has any experience using Field 1 in the field ? Is it still quiet, even though the iron bias is set to 0?

Would be great if anyone could share an opinion on Field 1 mode. 

 

Regards, 

Igor

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use field 1 but I changed the tones to 50. I see you don't want to change the factory presets but changing the tones from 2 to 50 isn't a big deal and its easy to change it right back. That's the only mode I use to hunt in parks and fields and it's treated me very well. If it's noisy turn down the sensitivity, that'll calm it down and you can still get good depth at 15 sensitivity

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's also easy to dial the iron bias back in Park 1.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you own the Nox 600 or 800? If you own the 800, simply save the profile you want to have a play with as user profile. You can then compare it to the desired factory profile with a press of a button..

If you feel like you‘ve messed something up, you can reset that single profile, or save a fresh factory profile as user profile again.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I run the Nox800 in Field1 since I got it. I run 2 tone, Iron bias 4, recovery speed 6. I have some +100 hours with the machine and really like this setup. Coins pop out nicely. Just foil fools me here and there. I have a 6" coil waiting for me in California. When I go over in Septemper I want to try it on nuggets planning on Gold 1 or 2. When I bring it back to Germany I want to try out Park1 + 2 with the 6" hitting some real trashy places. Regarding your question: Is it still quiet, even though the iron bias is set to 0?  IMHO the iron bias does not have much to do with "how quite" the machine acts. First thing I do when firing the unit up is a frequency scan. Then I look for a spot I do not find a signal and perform a manual ground balance (pumping the coil) - I stay away from auto ground tracking as I experienced additional noise when the machine tries to track into pieces of trash. So in average trashy areas I use manual (pumping) GB. This is what caused me most of additional noise. A good way to quieten down the machine is reducing the sensitivity. A sensitivity of 18 will still get you good depth even though I try to run as high as possible. If in really, really high mineralized grounds you may want to use single frequencies depending on what you are searching for.....small nuggets real shallow try 40 or 20 khz if you are going after artefacts deep try 5 or 10 khz. In general you can't beat multi frequency and Iron Bias only works in multi. The higher the Iron Bias setting the higher the probability the machine will identify a piece of metal under the coil as Iron. You might consider purchasing the book(s) written by Clive James Clynick about the Equinox MD. They helped me a lot understanding the machine better and swing, swing, swing practice makes perfect.........good luck to you

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you all for the tips. I've been amazed with the kindness of the people on the forum. I've been here for a while, and I've never seen any hate?

On the upcoming Saturday I am going with my brother for a hunt. I am going to stick to field 1 factory preset, maybe  I will increase iron bias a bit and save it in a user profile. 

13 hours ago, Sinclair said:

Do you own the Nox 600 or 800? If you own the 800, simply save the profile you want to have a play with as user profile. You can then compare it to the desired factory profile with a press of a button..

If you feel like you‘ve messed something up, you can reset that single profile, or save a fresh factory profile as user profile again.

I own 800 version. 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes that is probably the right way to go. Set Iron Bias to 3 or 4 and listen for quality signals. Try to run the coil over at a target at different angle and speed. If the numbers don't change much that's a good indicator. I also have a user mode set to 10 khz. If i'm not sure I will switch over to the user mode and check my target again. A coin for example will not change much. If it is some kind of trashy target the numbers will get weired...means I have a solid let's say 20-21 target but using the user mode I will get a 30 reading popping in or a -3 or so....usually it will be trash. Another good thing to do is narrowing your sweeps where you get the best signal. Then hit the horeshoe - all metal mode - and pump the coil right on the target. If you get lots of iron sound - dig it and you will find trash in 99%..... I am still diggin a lot of trash but I am trying to prove the machine to be wrong......I have to admit that the machine is hard to beat.....dig trash but dig trash when you already have the idea that it will be trash.....take some coins with you - different ones....once you dug a hole throw your coin in and cover the hole...try again and learn the sound you will hear....I like running 2 tone...scratchy non consistent tones, good signals you hear just from one direction or short clipped sounds are usually not worth diggin' but the more experience you gather the better but you should have an idea first of what you are doing or expecting to find...all metal is very good learning the machine and pumping the coil over your target is a good way to open your eyes...please let me know how things work out for you as I am learning my machine a well - sorry for all the corrections I had to make as I am faster writing than my mind follows---sometimes

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and one additional note from my side....here on this forum you will find a whole bunch of very nice people....and I am very thankful for that...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

running 2 tones - for me - is somehow easier to concentrate on the "quality" of the sound than running 50 tons where you hear a lot of different sounds. That scratchy sound or broken up sound - for me - is hard to hear when I am using 50 tones - I run a Nox 800 as well

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

aygore,

I've been using my 800 for a little over a year now and have spent most of my time hunting some hard hit OLD parks, some private yards and a few ghost towns / mining towns for good measure.

For the parks and yards, I mostly hunt with the 11" coil, for the Ghost towns I use the 6" coil. 

I've spent most of my time experimenting with Park 1 & 2, Field 1 & 2. For the type of hunting I do in the Parks, I've settled on Park 1 using 5 tones. I don't care for the Field modes in the areas I typically hunt.  I still roll from Park 1 to Park 2 , Field 1 and Field 2 and check signals and keep coming back to Park 1 & Park 2 for my hunting, with my minor adjustments.

My minor adjustments for Park 1?  I have my iron bias at 2 and my recovery at 6. If I go lower with the iron bias, I start digging A LOT more rusty iron nails. When set at 2, I dig rusty, deep, bent nails occasionally.  I could set Iron Bias higher, and put some distance between me and the rusty nails, BUT it impacts my ability to unmask targets close to the rusty nails.

My other adjustment is setting the Recovery at 6, which still gives me impressive depth AND separates close targets better than lower settings. If the trash level is LOW, I can adjust this lower. However, a lower setting also lengthens the audio response and I don't care for the target response with really LOW settings. It does buy me some extra depth but it reminds me of the LONG audio response setting on the old Explorers and Etracs. AND, one of the big selling points of the Equinox 600/800 is the ability to separate and unmask good targets from bad.  When I'm hunting areas already hunted by decades of other detectorists, why would I want to essentially turn this off by turning the recovery level WAAAY down? 

Again, I typically start with these settings and can tweak a little this way or that IF the area I'm hunting allows.

For hunting Private yards, since I will be recovering MOST conductive targets, I will typically use Park 2 with the 50 tones (factory setting). Again, I stick with the iron bias of 2 and recovery of 6. Again, I can adjust if needed. 

Another thing I am doing while hunting is using the 'U' horseshoe all-metal button so that I can hear the iron audio. I have the Iron volume set very low.  This gives me much more information as to what I'm sweeping the coil over and helps me when deciding if I'm getting an iron false or a possible co-located good target hiding adjacent to iron.  I am a fan of 'iron audio'.

Also, I leave my ground balance on 0. 

Hope that gives you some additional information to ponder over as you're getting to know your 800.  I've been detecting for a rather long time and am impressed by my 800 and its' ability to find tough targets where others have been many times before.  It isn't a magic wand, but it is a very good tool. Be smart. Learn how to use it and be patient.  Start experimenting with your settings when you find a possible target and see how the changes impact the audio and visual ID's and remember the audio ID trumps. 

Good luck - Rich (Utah)

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By phrunt
      My new T2 arrived this week so I decided I'd take it out for a test run today, I haven't bothered detecting football fields before, it never really crossed my mind to do so especially small town football fields that barely ever get used.  I think the last time I even saw people on this thing was about a year ago and they were riding a horse 🙂
      I guess back in time it was probably a popular place and my results today show this.  This is going to be more of a picture story as the pictures tell 1000 words! 
      I started using the T2 with Mars Tiger coil and within two minutes of arriving I had my first coin, then another, then another..... it was nuts, coins everywhere and very little junk, I was finding nice old coins, possibly one of my oldest in a while too

      Silver 🙂

      1938 British Penny

      The T2 was getting good depth, easily hitting on coins with good ID's, another silver!


      1948 Penny -  Now NZ currency, not British like the older Pennies, we used some British currency until 1967. 
      Prior to 1933 United Kingdom currency was the official legal tender of New Zealand, although Australian coins and notes were also generally accepted.
      The first New Zealand penny was minted in 1940. The penny ran until 1965, when New Zealand stopped minting pre-decimal coins in preparation for decimilisation in 1967.


      I have no idea what this thing is

      This is the football field I was detecting, under the goal posts and along the end of the field had a good collection of coins,  I guess from all the diving with the ball and coins in the players pockets, I don't know much about football, probably the only NZ male who has no clue about the game 🙂

      My oldest find of the day, a British 1912 One Penny

      It was quite deep down but the T2 banged on it real hard with a solid ID.  At this point I decided I'd go home and gear up better as this place obviously has a lot of good old coins.  I was only using my T2 with Carrot and Lesche digging tool which was hard work with all the coins being so deep.    I wanted a bigger coil to cover more ground but there was no way I was going to strap on the 15" Teknetics coil to continue using the T2 as it weighs a tonne.  I opted for the Equinox with it's 15" coil  and almost straight away after turning it on, another coin

      1950 NZ One Penny.  I left the bit of dirt on the coil up the top it came out of, I love when you get the impression of the coin in the soil.

      Another silver, 1934 Shilling

      This is the hole it came from, I always recheck my holes and I'm glad I did, another target in the hole, then another... this was crazy


      3 Silvers in the hole so far, 1934 Shilling, 1934 Shilling and a 1946 Sixpence, I was sure this was it but I did another check and off to the side of the hole, ANOTHER SILVER

      Another 1934 Shilling, 4 silvers in one hole, incredible!   Someone had a bad day.

      1964 Sixpence... the coins just kept coming, all old ones.  No longer are they made of silver in 1964...

      Nice and deep though
      +++++
      My first modern coin, a $2

      But look how deep it was, it was deeper than a lot of far older coins.... weird!

      Another two in one hole, just one cent coins from back when NZ had one cent coins.

      Another coin leaving a cool impression of itself in the soil, just a one cent I think

      It sure a lot of ground to cover, I'll be at this place for weeks... plenty more coins to find I'm sure.  Time to head back to the car, with my coil to the soil.

      Another for the road 🙂 Double sided impression on the soil with this one.  I couldn't possibly put up a photo of every coin find as there were just too many, all in about 3 hours detecting.

      The good stuff

      The bad stuff... not a bad ratio, good stuff far outweighed bad stuff, unusual for me.... I'll be back there tomorrow.... and the next day.... and the next day 🙂
       
    • By PUHH
      Hello all. 
      I found this picture: 
       
      Does anyone have more info?
    • By Tnsharpshooter
      https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/339677/EQUINOX SOFTWARE UPDATE A4 EN
      How To Rollback Equinox To Previous Software Version
      Minimum System requirements:
      USB 2.0 port
      EQUINOX USB Charging Cable with Magnetic Connector
      Windows 7, 8, 10
      50 MB of hard drive space
      20 MB of RAM
      MAC OS
      Greater than 10.10 Yosemite
      50 MB of hard drive space
      30 MB of RAM
      Note:
      Only one EQUINOX can be connected to the computer during an update operation. The EQUINOX must be ON during the software update. Any custom detector settings will be preserved while performing the update. An internet connection is required to download the Minelab Update Utility to the computer, however, an internet connection is not required to update the EQUINOX and this can be done offline. The EQUINOX coil must be connected to perform the update. Important: Do not turn off or disconnect the EQUINOX during the update process.
      Download the MINELAB Update Utility here.
      Click for larger images....

    • By Againstmywill
      On the advice of others on this forum, I called Minelab today to inquire about the play I've had in the shaft on my Equinox since day one. When I called back in 2018, they wanted me to send the whole detector in to get looked at. This time they said they would send the three pieces my way, and I just need to send the originals back to them. Has that been your experience for those in the same situation? 
    • By Ridge Runner
      As said I like both the Sport and the Nox face . The great thing about them as you hunt you can really look at the face of each and know what you have notched out . What makes the Nox even better over the Sport is you can notch out one number at a time .
       Oh I know the Nox has so many fine qualities over the Sport it will never have but like the Nox it has a pretty face .
       I don’t know why but a pretty face always tugs at my heart strings and a detector is no different.
       Chuck

      White's MX Sport Display and Controls

      Minelab Equinox Display & Controls
    • By Luv863
      I replaced the end plug on my Nox and thought others might like the idea. I don't know if anyone else has done this before but I replaced the plug with a bicycle handle bar plug. This was done purely for cosmetic purposes as the plastic end plug it had did its job just fine. These are the ones I went with https://www.amazon.com/PRO-Bicycle-Handlebar-Plugs-Black/dp/B00JATNUGS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pro+bar+end+plugs&qid=1567359452&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Just a simple plastic compression plug with a nice aluminum cap. They came with black coated steel screws though so I'll replace them with stainless ones when I get the chance.
      There are other brands, styles, and colors of these types of plugs but just make sure to get the right dimensions to fit inside the shaft and not interfere with the arm cuff screw. Many of the listings don't specify the dimensions of the plug. The ones I got have an OD of 23.5mm (the smallest I could find) and my shaft OD is 22.2mm so there's a tiny bit of overhang but my arm cuff is all the way to the rear so it didn't bother me. The only thing I had to do to make them fit was trim about 1/2 in. off the end of the screw to keep it from hitting the arm cuff inside the shaft and I also used some blue loctite to ensure the screw doesn't back out.




×
×
  • Create New...