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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I wonder if anything will come of all this? A new detector, basically marketed via one thread on one metal detector forum. Not much interest here obviously despite David trying hard to keep people informed. To me the holy grail and promise of the so-called hybrid detectors is the idea of full discrimination to full PI depths. Effort is being made to note that the Tarsacci does not offer that level of performance, so what we have is a new VLF with a fairly stiff price tag. I find it hard to believe that any non-waterproof VLF selling for over a grand is going to get much traction these days. So while it’s all sort of interesting I am missing whatever it is that is supposed to be compelling here. The lack of response here makes me think I am not the only one scratching my head on this one.
  2. 2 points
    Most of us moved on from flogging that ridiculous marketing catch line about a year ago. Thanks for the nostalgia. If you have a real question, we're all ears.
  3. 2 points
    The engineers were smart enough to include single frequencies for those rare situations that may occur. They also may have considered the fact that there are detectorists that will want single frequency control as an option, for better or worse. I don't know if you posted your question in humor or not and I'm wondering if you have an Equinox? I am one of those seasoned detectorists that is happy to dive into the machines I use and appreciate the ability to control my own destiny with a new machine. I think Minelab got the electronics correct, but not so much on the cosmetics (stand, cuff, shaft locks) As far as marketing goes, it has been discussed here before and most detectorists decide for themselves how good a machine is, with no thought given to the marketing hype.
  4. 2 points
    The site in that video is going to be a subdivision soon. All of it will be gone. I have been back twice since that video. In the video I found 41 civil war bullets. My next trip, we were mainly marking bullets to test the new MDT 8000 detector and did not hunt hard for bullets. I think I found 12 that day. The last trip resulted in 21 bullets. My buddy that hunts with me has got about the same...so all in all, 3 trips have produced around 100 or little over that, bullets. Still plenty more of em in there. I always used this spot as a testing area for new detectors. Gonna be sad to see it gone. Other relic hunters in the area have recently found it and have been hunting it some. The Nox does fairly well there for a VLF. It is not a pulse machine but does better in disc mode than any other VLF on the market that I've used.
  5. 2 points
    Like Gerry I am a little late to the party as I boarded a tug about the time Strick posted his coin. Although I basically found NOTHING the entire weekend but 1 button and a couple common relics this was still one of the best hunts I have ever been on. Just being there as my partner was making these fabulous finds was one of the highlights of my detecting career. Even though Strick mopped the floor with me the entire weekend I still had so much fun, only once in a while feeling the sting of humiliation. LOL Just basking in the glow coming off my friend I needed shades. I like going to the heaviest iron a site has to offer and bearing down on it. So I had been going over a small area of heavy iron with my Deus with the HF elliptical most of the day for nothing. When he first called me over I could not believe how beautiful that dime was. Then when he called again I could tell by the look on his face he had a big find. That gold coin looked so awesome laying there. I must ruefully admit my friend taught me a lesson that day I won't soon forget. He taught me that maybe if the iron isn't producing you may be better off casting around. Don't focus so intensely on the nail beds, something better may be right over yonder. Like Strick I had not been hunting much lately but his finds have renewed my desire to find my own bucket list items. I feel new vigor and excitement for relic hunting and can't wait to get back out there again.
  6. 1 point
    I am an avid metal detector user and I like always being at it. Just because there is no gold prospecting for me in a given time frame is no reason to not go metal detecting for gold. There are a lot more ways to find gold than prospecting, and so jewelry detecting is very high on my list. If you like finding a gold nugget, I do not see how you could not also be excited about digging up a gold ring. Jewelry detecting and nugget detecting share many common traits, not least being the hunt for gold. Both also require a high tolerance for digging trash items, and both are best done with detectors made for the purpose. It just so happens that the detectors best used for nugget detecting are often the best to use for jewelry detecting. In other words, a lot of you guys are already outfitted for this! There are two general ways to hunt for jewelry - on dry land, or in and around water. Let's leave the dry land for another article and focus on the water detecting for now, since I am gearing up for a water hunt myself right now. Almost any detector, with the remarkable exception of the most expensive one you can buy, comes with waterproof coils and can be submerged to the control box. Minelab PI stock coils are not warranted waterproof but only water resistant so it takes aftermarket coils to get them up to speed. But they are a poor choice for wading as there is probably no machine I would like dropping in the water less than a Minelab GPX 5000 with high amp battery attached. Detectors that can be hip or chest mounted offer even more flexibility for wading applications. Few nugget detectors are fully submersible, but there are some, most notably the Garrett AT Gold, Infinium and ATX, all waterproof models. Jan 2019 note: see also Makro Gold Kruzer and Equinox 800. Water detecting can be broken down into fresh water and salt water detecting. Fresh water detecting is pretty straight forward since fresh water is invisible to your detector. The tuning and operation of the detector is similar to what you do on dry land. All you have to worry about is keeping the electronics dry, and recovering targets underwater. Fresh water swimming holes are great for jewelry detecting, and there are many fresh water stream and river opportunities for gold prospectors. Any good gold prospecting detector also works well for freshwater beach hunting. The Garrett AT Gold has an obvious edge for being waterproof. The Tesoro Lobo gets special mention for being convertible to hip or chest mount. In fresh water VLF detectors usually have an edge due to large amounts of trash often being present but PI detectors do have their place in fresh water detecting. The only way to know is to just give it a go and see how much trash there is. The nice thing about beaches though is the digging is easy compared to what nugget hunters often face. Salt water adds a whole new dimension. Salt water is conductive, and therefore a hot metal detector can actually get a signal from salt water or wet salt sand. Many prospectors already know the issues surrounding salt and alkali flats. Detectors that are used in salt water need some way to tune out the salt signal. The problem is even worse on beaches that have mineral content, classic black sand beaches. A white beach composed of broken down coral and shells is no problem at all, but add volcanic material and the issues compound. Most prospectors would not be surprised to hear that pulse induction (PI) detectors have an edge in dealing with salt water scenarios. There is an unsolvable conundrum however. The signal for salt water and small gold items, like post earrings or thin gold chains, actually overlaps. When you tune out the salt water, you tune out these items also. There is no solution to this problem with existing metal detectors because of the way they work. It is possible to find these items at the beach using a hot detector, like a White’s Goldmaster or Fisher Gold Bug 2, but you must be on bone dry sand. Any attempt to get near wet salt sand with these units will result in the sand acting like one giant target. Most mid-frequency gold machines handle salt water beaches to varying degrees. They will generally have no problem until you get on sand currently seeing wave action or actually in the water. The higher the frequency, the less able to handle wet salt sand. The Fisher Gold Bug Pro at 19 kHz and Garrett AT Gold at 18 kHz are not happy on wet salt sand. They can be made to function but only by losing a lot of depth. The Tesoro Lobo has an alkali setting and White’s MX Sport a salt setting specifically designed to handle wet salt sand. In general though these detectors will all work better higher on the beach and have an edge on small rings, earrings, and chains that other beach hunting machines tend to miss. The Minelab Eureka Gold and X-Terra 705 have low frequency options that make them well suited for beach hunting. The Eureka can be hip or chest mounted, but be aware the stock coil is another that Minelab does not warranty as waterproof. The PI detectors fare better, the Garrett Infinium and new ATX having an edge again for being waterproof designs. The White’s TDI and Minelab series do well but must be kept dry. The TDI models except the TDI SL have an advantage in being convertible to hip or chest mount. Be aware that turning off or not using a ground balance system can often add extra depth with a PI on white sand beaches. The TDI and GPX 5000 can turn off the ground balance setting, and the factory default on the ATX before ground balancing offer possibilities on low mineral beaches. For 2019 see the new White's TDI BeachHunter. For serious salt water beach detecting hunters turn to detectors not normally used for prospecting. Ironically, this is because the general lack of sensitivity that makes prospectors eschew these models makes them ideal for salt water. Multi-frequency VLF detectors are not very good prospecting machines but they excel in salt water. Two detectors that vie neck and neck in the salt water VLF market are the Fisher CZ-21 and Minelab Excalibur. On the PI side the Garrett Sea Hunter, Tesoro Sand Shark and White’s Surf PI are the three popular models. Minelab Excalibur II waterproof metal detector There are lots of options but if you ever want a specialized waterproof detector for both fresh and salt water and want to make a safe choice, get a Minelab Excalibur. It is probably the most popular water detector made and for good reason. It gets the job done with minimum fuss and will work well anywhere. I am a PI guy myself however. I have used the Garrett Infinium extensively trying to deal with salt water and volcanic sand and hot rock conditions in Hawaii. I have had success with the model but it is difficult to deal with, suffering from an inability to ground balance into the salt range and susceptibility to EMI interference. Huge numbers of posts exist on how to try and get an Infinium to behave in salt water. The new ATX has taken steps to address these issues but the jury is out there yet. I will be giving the ATX a good go in Hawaii soon. My latest water detector is a White's Surf PI Dual Field to back up the ATX. I have had good luck in the past with the White's Surf PI models and recommend them for people interested in a waterproof beach PI. Again, a simple unit that gets the job done, and at a bargain price. Where to hunt can fill a book, but really boils down to two things. The first is that the best finds will be made where people who wear quality jewelry congregate and engage in some kind of physical activity. On fresh water beaches where items get dropped is generally where they stay. The second item comes into play more often on salt water beaches. The waves and seasons concentrate items on layers, much like placer deposits. They sometimes bury the items too deep to find, and at other times expose them for easy recovery. Beach watching can teach you a lot. There is the towel line, where people set up shop for the day. Lots of items get lost here. Then there are the places where people tend to play beach sports, like Frisbee or volleyball. Best of all, are areas in the water where people congregate, with areas where people can actually stand on the bottom being best. Items dropped in sand obviously sink over time, but hard sand will resist this longest and keep the targets close to the surface longer. Extremely soft sand swallows items quickly and is not a good place to hunt. Areas where the sand tapers into a hard rock or coral bottom can be very good when the overlying sand is shallow enough to reach that hard layer with a detector. Beach detecting is very popular, but beach hunters have on tremendous advantage over prospectors. The finds are being constantly replenished. There is no beach, no matter how heavily hunted, that does not have the potential for finds. The more activity there is the more items are lost in a given period of time. The finds made by beach hunters can rival the best made by prospectors, as not many gold nuggets come with diamonds attached. I know for many prospectors it is about getting out into the middle of nowhere and away from the crowds. Beach hunting is not for everyone. But you can hunt early in the morning or even on rainy days, when people are few and far between. As more and more areas accessible to prospectors get hunted out, it is possible other places are near to you where gold may be easier to find. If you have a detector already you certainly have nothing to lose by giving it a go. Hopefully this post has at least made you consider the possibility. As always, volumes more information can be found just by Googling “beach detecting forum”. Here is an example of a hunt at White's Surf PI Pro and Platinum Rings in Hawaii I got four platinum and three gold rings over a couple week period. One of the gold rings is white gold so it looks like only two gold. All fairly plain men's bands reflecting the rough surf area I was hunting. There is a picture of everything I dug at the link including the junk. All the platinum I have ever found was rings, and when platinum peaked at over $2000 an ounce I cashed in over two ounces of platinum. Another very successful hunt was Detecting Gold in Hawaii with the Garrett Infinium Please note that unlike my prospecting outings I do not spend every hour of every day in Hawaii detecting. These finds are being made hunting on an average of two or three hours a day. I am not one to just sit around so detecting keeps me busy. And a good vacation can be paid for in finds or at least subsidized with some hard work and a little bit of luck. Waterproof VLF Detector Comparison Guide Some gold and platinum finds made by Steve in Hawaii
  7. 1 point
    It is gold mode i have been using. I am also in the uk. Recovery speed at 5. Tracking off. Iron bias is 1. I think my threshold is at 3. I dig everything above an id of 2. These settings were recommended to me and seem to work very well.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I'd rather go crazy than miss targets which makes me crazy. No iron bias for me.
  10. 1 point
    The 15” x 12” Commander mono is a solid performer. I never took to the Goldstalkers personally. There seems to be more housing than needed in the Goldstalker models.
  11. 1 point
    That's a once in a life time find.
  12. 1 point
    Please don't take any of the following the wrong way.. I'm merely replying to what you ask the best I know: It's hard enough trying to dispense non-destructive coin cleaning advice when all variables are known; impossible to do when none are known.. What does "pre-decimal" even mean..? You say NZ coins, but does that mean also found in NZ..? If so or otherwise, where found (meaning geographical location, not 'on the beach' or 'on land' -- I will assume land because you said 'washing off the dirt', but that doesn't tell me an actual where..)? What type of soil (meaning acidic / alkaline, not hot / mild..)? Of what are the coins made (percentage of each metal is helpful..)? Since NZ coins, are they double metal..? More than one denomination..? I could go on.. Almost never if not absolutely never do I consider much less describe substance or discoloration on the surface of any coin coming out of the ground as "patina.." Absolute best case one might get away with using 'toning'.. More than likely it's chemical / mineral coloration or damage.. I can't tell you how to present but pretty much fair trade value comes down to a question of rarity.. As far as anyone else appreciating your respect for the coin and its condition by leaving it alone goes the answer is neutral-at-best, but you'll definitely hear about even the most passive failed cleaning attempt -- soon to be followed with a much lower price offer, if indeed an offer at all.. When it comes to cleaning dug coins specifically, intent being numismatic sale, my advice is a distilled water soak, perhaps some gentle agitation to float away loosened dirts, clean cloth pat dry and that's it.. If you absolutely cannot leave a coin alone, my recommendation is sonic clean in distilled water, then pat dry.. However, do not be surprised if sonic cleaning removes some but not all of the debris / buildup / toning -- in which case you end up with a partially 'shiny' coin with a distinct line of demarcation between that and the non-removed substance(s).. What does one do then..? Does the coin look better or worse that way..? It is for the most part a combination of uncharted territory and a buyer's market when offering "found" / "dug" coinage in a numismatic environment, possible exception rarest-of-the-rare items.. Entrance, with coins of alteration, is at one's own risk.. Swamp
  13. 1 point
    Sounds like similar conditions to a civil war camp I hunt too. A high tension powerline runs right thru it. I have not found a magic setting on the GPX to allow one to hunt there. I have tried small coils, AI coil (11"), Cancel mode, and various other tricks. I tried hunting thru the warbling and motorboating and did pull some bullets and burnside casings out of my camp but nothing deep. I hunted it with a TDI and could get closer to the lines but not under them. I hunted the edges really well though. In my case I haven't had a VLF that ran smooth there either but the DST mode F75 in all metal seemed to work decent and was deeper than the GPX running throttled back. Have not had an Equinox on that camp yet but have ran into emi with mine in other areas so I figure it will be hard to hunt there with it too. Gonna give it a whirl though this week.
  14. 1 point
    Do you think something like an Equinox or other HF VLF will perform better than a GPX when in Cancel with a DD under power lines? The VLF can handle power lines much better but would it be comparable in depth to the PI in that scenario? I can run my Gold Bug Pro and Gold Monster 1000 maxed out under power lines no problems at all. I still haven't found a working viable solution for me to use my GPX under power lines that I'm happy with, the DD didn't solve the problem for me, Cancel was OK but I felt the detector was gutless when in Cancel and thought perhaps I'd be better off swinging something else instead but didn't want to have to walk back to the car to get it 🙂 The GM isn't scared of power lines even in manual 10. The Nox copes pretty well with high voltage too, but you have to adjust the settings accordingly, usually just disabling multi IQ and going to 40khz is all it takes. I'd love to find a solution to my GPX and high voltage power lines but so far I've had no luck, the DD did improve things but not as much as I'd like, my smallest DD is 11", so perhaps I need smaller?
  15. 1 point
    If using a DD coil in Cancel, you can often tweak up the machine to get back some of the depth loss. Depending on ground conditions of course. For coin/button sized targets, I'd use Normal timing, and possibly even Sharp depending on the ground.
  16. 1 point
    If you are using this out of the water 23 could be ok if you have a sifting pouch. With the Equinox line, if you want to discriminate against small objects you will need to dial back your sensitivity. I do not do much saltwater hunting, but when I do go in the water I dial it back to 16-18 depending on target density. On dry land in an old park I am almost always at 16 to avoid things the size of 22 lead have me chasing a target with my pinpointer 6-8" deep for 15 minutes. GL and HH!
  17. 1 point
    Hi Chris… that’s an attractive specimen you have there. It certainly looks like native silver. Have a look around the house for an unglazed white or beige porcelain type of surface. The unfinished bottoms of some types of soup bowls or coffee cups will suffice nicely for a simple streak test. Silver is soft, it reacts to metal detectors similar to native gold, and it produces a silvery streak. Galena with sufficiently solid structure will certainly react to VLF metal detectors and pinpointers such as my Garrett Propointer. But none of my large galena samples will react to a PI unit. Galena produces a soft wide black streak that cannot be misidentified as silver. The black mineralization adjacent to the silvery metal on your sample could also be comprised mostly of native silver with a black silver sulfide coating. That would help to explain the strong signal produced in the field. However, it could very well be a silver sulfide such as acanthite or perhaps even a dark silver sulfosalt. I can’t be more specific from a photo, although I'd put my money down on it being native silver embedded in acanthite. In any practical sense, related silver minerals such as acanthite do not react to metal detectors in the field.
  18. 1 point
    Rusty, Glad you are having success with the Safari. With your bad shoulders, you should trade in the Safari for an Equinox 600. It can do more than the Safari, weighs less and is newer technology at a cheaper price too. See if you dealer is willing to work with you and if not, give me a jingle. I accept many detector trades towards the 7 different brands I sell.
  19. 1 point
    Since I keep records of all my hunts I've gotten into the habit of summarizing the years' finds. First the raw numbers (with 2017 numbers in parentheses): Hours in the field: 263.5 (228). Number of hunts: 80 (65). Common coin (clad, Memorial) face value: $78.68 ($20.65). Different sites searched: 15 (11). [Note: 6 of this years' sites were permissions compared to just 2 last year.] Pulltabs (all types): 382 (524). "Old" US coins (see photo): 22 (8). Wheat cents: 90 (61). By "old US coins" I mean any silver coin, Buffalo nickels or earlier, Indian Head cents or earlier. About 2/3 of my old coin finds have already been reported on this website. The photo (below) shows six silver dimes and six silver nickels ("Warnicks") for a total of 12 silvers. Also shown is one V-nickel (next to the dimes), seven Buffies, and two Indian Heads (bottom row). Also shown on the bottom row are a 1917 Canadian large cent, my first ever (and only, to date) dollar (modern 😢) and half dollar (clad 😢). The nickels are the big surprise since I hadn't found a Warnick since 1972(!) and back in the spring when a thread was begun (paraphrased) "what are you hoping to find first with your Equinox" I responded "my first ever Buffalo nickel". As you can see I found seven, the first two without dates and then a run of five with dates. None of the coins shown has any value over metal content (silver) or face (the rest) since they are all common dates. My best Wheatie find of the year was a 1924-D which I reported on in detail earlier this year. Although I don't hunt jewelry as many do, I sometimes find some anyway. My second photo shows my better jewelry finds and my best relic of the year, a Civil War cartridge box plate size and front face are quite similar to belt buckels but the backside is different. (I wrote this up earlier in the year -- found on 4th of July!) Just found the pocket watch on my last hunt of the year (Sunday 30 Dec). It's in very bad shape as you can see. I think it's gold plated -- you can see one very shiny spot. Probably never was a valuable piece.... The only piece of jewerly which has more than a few dollars value is the amethyst crystal in the gold bezel. Interestingly that is the only jewelry find my wife has ever wanted -- I happily gave it to her after I photo'ed it. 🙂 So why the change in production (both clad coins and old coins)? There are several small reasons but I think the big one is the use of an 11 inch coil (on the Equinox). Another thing I wrote up previously is that I was 'forced' to use a coil larger than my previous habit of 5 inch to 6 inch diameter and I was able to cover a lot more ground as a result.
  20. 1 point
    I know most hunters might argue the point, but I've always wanted a true, motion all metal mode like gold 1 and gold 2 with one small addition, 2 tone option, one for iron and the other for non-ferrous. Even better would be an adjustable tone break. Years ago I hunted with the Fisher F75, in motion all metal mode and found a lot of super deep targets that the other discrimination modes could not pick up.
  21. 1 point
    I have the Minelab Safari and it's a great machine. I don't get to use it as much as I like because I have arthritis really bad in my shoulders and it's hard for me to swing anything for more than a few minutes at a time, but the safari is a lot lighter than the Excalibur I had which I really loved. Anyway, when I go to the beach, my Safari loves Silver. I have dug dimes at 14 inches and even found a small Silver necklace at 12 inches. I was really surprised on that one. Of course I get my share of bottle caps, nails and screws but when I search, I don't discriminate and dig everything. Haven't found any gold yet but probably because I don't get to hunt much. Been wanting to go hunting somewhere besides the beach and plan on doing it soon. Well, was just wanting to comment that the Safari loves Silver and hits a really hard tone when you swing over it. Thanks and hope everyone has a blessed New Year.
  22. 1 point
    Yes,.... the 15X12 "equinox coil is deeper than the 11" standard coil, it's like more + 2 sensibility, and it's most visible at high recovery speeds ... where the 11 "coil does not even increase the sensitivity ...Today I tested all 3 Equinox coils on the Equinox 800, plus other coils on the Whites Spectra V3 ..
  23. 1 point
    I mostly mean walking very slowly. The swing rate depends on the recovery speed, etc. Usually quite slow but there is such a thing as too slow. You have to experiment with a target to find the sweep speed that works best. But I mean being far slower and far more methodical than what you are doing. It just depends on what you are doing because ground coverage does count. For that I am walking at a normal rate and swinging at a normal rate. But for "killing" a small patch of ground, sanitizing it of all targets, you have to really slow down and work hard on the whispers. From Equinox Manual page 16: Sweeping the Coil EQUINOX Series detectors are motion detectors, meaning that the coil must be moving across the ground in order to detect a target. If the coil is held stationary over a target, it will not be detected. The side-to-side detecting motion is called 'sweeping' or 'swinging', and with practice will become a comfortable and fast way to cover ground. Sweeping the coil incorrectly can cause you to miss targets or can generate false signals. Though the coil assembly is rigid and durable, sudden jolts or bangs may cause random signals and inaccurate Target IDs, as well as excessive wear and tear. Careful sweeping will ensure the coil performs to an optimum level at all times. Sweep Parallel to the Ground You will obtain the best performance when the coil is swept close and parallel to the ground at all times. This will maximise detection depth and improve the response to small objects. Avoid excessive brushing of the coil on the ground. Overlap Your Sweep Practice sweeping the coil over the ground in a side-to-side motion while slowly walking forward at the end of each sweep. Slightly overlap the previous sweep to ensure full ground coverage. An average sweep speed is 2 to 3 seconds from right-to-left-to-right. More on the above. Classic patch vacuuming techniques also call for hitting a location from multiple different directions. Nuggets can easily signal when swept from one direction and not another. Best practice involves hunting from four different directions. The fact is that the smaller the gold nuggets get, the more plentiful they are. That means I have places where I know there is small gold, and I can almost 100% of the time go back to them and find more gold by employing ever tighter control and patience. It is a game of inches or fractions of inches, such that simply removing any rubble or sticks etc. will usually reveal more gold. Most of my detector nugget testing involves going back to an old patch and just working harder than the last time. Not working harder physically, just concentrating harder and being tuned to the hilt and practicing the best coil control I can manage. And being willing to run hot and dig lots of little hot rocks or borderline wire bits if that is what it takes.
  24. 1 point
    OnX Hunt is the phone app that has overlays for state, forest service, blm, private properties and gives land ownership information. The company is based in Missoula MT and I spoke with them last week. They said it lists patented claims but not registered claims. I told her it would be a huge market boost for her company it they included registered claims. She typed in some info on her computer and they can access the info of LR2000 and upload claim info for each state. She will have a meeting with the other owners of this company and she feels it will be beneficial to add it to the app and it is not a difficult problem for them to include it. I will keep everyone posted.
  25. 1 point
    Since leaving Alaska I have to admit my solution to getting cold is to quit and wait for it to get warmer!
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