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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/04/2020 in all areas

  1. Out with the AQ Thursday 3 hours....... Skipping shallows and digging faints only at this location seems to be the best way to control the amount of trash. The one big piece of iron I did dig was shallow... The Buffalo, (191?) was as deep as I've dug in the place for anything, I would say in the 20 inch range.... It sure likes Nickels...And remember I hunt in All metal only..never switched over to mute this time..straight PI hunt only........... Gold ring is small, just under 2 grams 14k , 3 scoops deep..maybe in the 13 /14 inch range.. Ring never really gave a good solid hit so maybe it was on it's side? 10 gold with the AQ, 9 rings and 1 misc..Can't wait till fall hits and the NW winds kick in...☠️ Side note, This is the beach I'm so confident about the AQ being the best I had invited anyone that want to meet, over on the other forum. So far no local takers but did get a few from a distant that wanted to give it a go. Anyone is welcome.......... A very tough spot, Been hammered for years by just about ever machine made. Been dredged, mined, and Has High Power lines about 100 yards away. And if you noticed in the video I'm wearing a drysuit with dry gloves, during the summer. Water quality is not the best either so playing it safe..Still waiting for the Cygnus invite challenge also...nothing yet. Let me know, the door is open.. ' Second set of pictures are from the batteries I'm working on..should have something working mid July, still waiting on a few detail things. The main thing is battery life and fix the connector issues. I really could do a much better battery setup if I were to change the shaft to a carbon fiber then mold a carbon fiber battery pack into the rear like the MDT...
    16 points
  2. Managed a couple keepers at a new site last week including an 1863 CW Patriotic token with "Army and Navy" on one side and an engraving of the Capitol building on the reverse. A little crusty but I'll take it. A fishing weight carved from a lead minie ball, another lead fragment, and a large flat button. Enjoyed the hunt though it was a balmy 95F out there. Snagged the token and lead with my GPX and the flat button with my Deus. Cheers.
    9 points
  3. So here it is, my maiden voyage with the AQ. I was able to get in a 2½ hour hunt at the beach today. My goal was to dig every signal that sounded good and some that did not but piqued my interest. For the most part I stayed in tone mode, sensitivity almost full, and the rest in the preset settings. I did try all metal and mute modes as a check occasionally. I hunted the dry sand mostly since it was high tide but did venture on the saturated sand a bit. Results>>>>Humans are slobs LOL. I dug a ton of garbage just to get a feel for the machine. I like the quick, loud response it gives when you get close to a target. I also like how easy it is to pinpoint with it. Batteries lasted the hunt plus about an hour more for the land hunt I did later. The second battery lasted about the same. Way longer that I expected them to last. About 3½ hours each. Coins sounded terrible as to be expected, aluminum screamed as did the bottle caps. No gold this hunt but a cool looking Amethyst pendant, a nice (fake) stud, a nice chain that I was hoping was silver but was stamped Italy 14K …yeah right, China special - copper showing through. The land hunt later was to hopefully find Iron canister shot for an 1812 war project I visit occasionally. It definitely found a lot of big iron at very good depth, but none of them would be round shot. My first impression of the machine? I like it and will probably do better when I have the beach for the day and the seasons change. If you are after coins and little junk, this is not the machine for you. If you are an experienced PI guy, you will probably appreciate this machine. I will use it for gold as it was intended, but still hunt for silver with the GPX. On the beach it handled the EMI well. On the land hunt and about 40 feet from the train tracks, it got a bit jumpy at times but still better that the GPX. Not sure how much depth I loose during that though. It will be about 2 weeks until I can get to another beach to hunt. Work always gets in the way!
    7 points
  4. Hey guys, I've been using my Nox 800 underwater (salt water) for some days now (7 underwater hunts total, about 2 hours each), and thought I could share some first results, plus give a nice and cheap alternative to the minelab yellow headphones for underwater use if anyone interested. My first ever snorkel-dive with Nox in my usual pebble beach was by using just the speaker (no headphones) with my head submerged, and as expected, I soon realized that this wasn't enough...even with my head underwater was very difficult to hear through the speaker due to extremely low volume even in calm sea...(however, as already posted in my first topic in the forum, I was still able to get my first whote gold ring with Nox using just the speaker 🙂). Anyway, in my second hunt I bought the Minelab's yellows, but to my experience with them, again I wasn't able to hear the signals good enough underwater due to their low vol especially after some minutes underwater when the soft earpads and the space between was geting full of water. Furthermore, the yellows are huge headphones and I need to be more descret in my beaches this time of year. In my last hunts however, I tried something different and wanted to share my experience...I bought a pair of 100% waterproof and submersible swimming in-ear headphones especially designed for swimming and watersports that had some quite good reviews from athletes around... the product is the "H2O Surge+ waterpoof headphones" (company is "H2O") and bought them for $40 through Amazon...(arrived from amazon UK). Well guys, in my last underwater hunts with them, my experience is tremendously good....their sound quality underwater and their volume is honestly out of this world, and I'm not kidding...especially when comparing to Minelab's yellows. Volume is high enough to hear even the tinniest faint signal and you feel the tone inside your ear like hell... their earplugs completelly seal the external sounds also, and their sound-tones & bass quality is very immpresive for such a small pair of headphones. These small earbuds come with a 3.6ft straight cord so at least for me were comfortable enough while snorkelling and still able to leave the Nox in the bottom (chest depth max) while relaxing in the surface with my mask waiting for the "recovery fog" to leave. Their speakers are 100% waterpoof (IPX8 rating) and can be submerged to 3.5m depth no prob. The company states that maybe sometimes they need equalization (blowing air inside them) but sinnce now I didn't need it. However the cord is thin so you mast be carefull not to stretch it, and if you feel to you can make an easy mod to seal the hole-plug of the Nox where they are inserted (I made a simple yet effective mod by drilling a small hall to the original plastic protective threaded plug of the nox, and used 2 perfect fit o-rings inside to seal the 3.5mm jack connection while screwing the plastic plug...you already know that the nox is waterproof in that point also, but better safe than sorry and made the extra mile to seal it better). As already stated, the H2O earbuds are designed for athletes (especially designed for swimming and watersports) and come 5 sets of earplugs to fit perfectly in every ear...in my ears they fit so nice and they completely seal external sounds and water from my ear canal. Don't wanna say much more about them, and waiting to see how they handle overtime, but as for now I'm totally impressed with them and their volume and sound quality, and my finds went immediatelly up. Furthermore, In fear of flooding the Nox in the future as many other members experienced, and in order to make it more usable underwater while snorkelling, I made some extra mods. I totally water-sealed the machine by: a) using silicon paste inside the battery compartment inside the handle (removable if needed but should be a pain to remove)...b) used marine epoxy paste to seal the control box and screen perimeter where the plastic parts join together, and also sealed the point that the control pad meets the handle (critical point there).... c) completelly sealed and eliminated the external speaker (will never use it anyway)...d) made a custom shaft by modifying the original lower shaft to shorten it and also drilled a small drain hole near the bottom...I know I may void the warranty with my mods, but took the risk and now I'm using the machine underwater with piece of mind. Results: As already said, I have used my Nox underwater for 7 hunts till now...about 2 hours each. Attached some photos of the finds. In these +/- 14 hours I have: - 4 gold rings: All are solid gold (14k & 9k the smallest one), except the large and heavy one wich is bi-metal silver with 14k gold piece on top. (ps. the top white 14k gold ring with small diamonds is the one I posted some days ago) - 1 crusifix (silver with gold Christ) - Almost €22 in change - 82(!) old clad coins (all are pre-euro drachmas..no worth unfortunatelly, but yeap 82 of them in these 14 hours) - Good amount of lead sinkers (including some huge ones) - 2 spoons, 3 keys, a jank pin jewel piece, a junk watch, and a live HXP-95 military cartridge (strange to find it underwater though..!) - Aluminum junk: MINIMUM!..we're talking almost no junk comparing to dry hunt!!! I think I gonna love this underwater thing!!!!! 😄 Ps. My Nox settings if someone's interested are: Beach 2, Recovery @5, Iron Bias F2@0 , 2 tones only (pitch 1 for iron / pitch 23 for non-fe), notch only -9 to -7 to avoid ground/ceramic rocks underwater (all other is open and able to hear iron from -6 to 0 in low vol pitch 1), tone break @0, sensitivity @17, GB manual by pumping sideways (have uneven bottom), no threshold. That's all 🙂 Happy hunting everyone! Argyris
    6 points
  5. I swear that the Corona bottling plant is just down the road from me and not in Mexico.
    6 points
  6. I was really looking forward to hitting the beaches hard this weekend with the holiday crowds, great tides and new swell coming in but a couple of days ago the news reported that my local beaches were going to be re-closed just for the 4th of July weekend. I thought I would sneak in a hunt before the closure went into effect so I took the TDI BeachHunter and headed down to one of my favorite locations to detect a couple hours after high tide. There was a decent slope going down to the water and in the light of the nearly full moon I could see several patches of black sand- both pretty good indicators that there were going to be some targets. Even though the tide was still fairly high I was able to work in the wet sand and shallow surf and I started to find an encouraging number of clad coins with a surprising amount of quarters in the mix. This was shaping up to be an excellent hunt. That's when the local police SUV came by and told me that the beach was closed and that I needed to start making my way off the beach. Now, I have hunted this beach dozens of times at all hours of the night and day and the local lifeguards have always let me be when they saw me. The only other time I was asked to leave was also by local law enforcement. I was disappointed since I had just found a productive patch of sand but I said "Yes Sir" and went back to my car to change batteries and put on some different clothes. I thought the officer was actually giving me a little wiggle room when he said, "start making your way off the beach'" instead of "leave the beach" so I went back to hunting and never saw another patrol over the next 6 hours. But I did see many more people including 3 or 4 other hunters. I detected some other nearby spots before heading back at low tide to hunt the site I started at. To my surprise and indignation there was a claimjumper detecting on my claim! I decided to give him plenty of space and started to work the fringes of the "paydirt" where I was still digging targets. However, to my surprise, the other hunter left shortly after I arrived and I think I know why. I couldn't make out what detector he was using but judging from the number of good targets that I continued to find, some even in his scooped out holes, he was either a beginner or had a detector that couldn't handle the modest amount of black sand- maybe both. This area was not that big- perhaps 20' wide by 100' long but I found enough targets to keep me busy for the next couple of hours. I found a couple of rings and a couple of bracelets and I was certain that one of those bracelets was silver. I really like the TDI BeachHunter. It is the most recent addition to my "arsenal" and one that I have the fewest amount of hours on due to overall beach conditions this past year and the pandemic impact. It's been compared to the Fisher Impulse AQ Limited but from what I've seen I believe that the AQ is deeper. The BeachHunter is deep and is really sensitive to both small and gold targets but its pulse delay is 10us compared to 7.5us on the AQ so I'd like to compare "all metal" performance of both detectors when I am able to land an AQ. I drove all the way home wishing I had found gold but happy to have found a big silver bracelet. Unfortunately, when I took a closer look at it I saw what you can see on the the bottom right of the photo- the silver plating wearing through. Arghhhh! Well, at least, I found enough clad to pay for gas this time! GL&HH!
    6 points
  7. Here is a tiny part of a long and complicated story. As I've mentioned, I was a White's dealer. White's had a few very powerful distributors. They also had an old contract with Kellyco they came to regret but could not get out of, leading to some strange shenanigans, but that is another story. Enter the Internet. White's basically feared the internet, and prohibited most dealers initially from even mentioning they were dealers for White's on the internet. The excuse was that they were trying to protect the dealers from undercutting each other. But what they were doing was favoring the distributors, who also just happened to be dealers. They could sell via the internet, but the lowly dealers could not. Dealers were in effect having to compete with their own suppliers. People tend to revere Jimmy Sierra, but he had a huge chunk of the White's pie, and did everything he could to protect his slice, at the expense of everyone else. A big part of what took White's down was having distributors way past the day when they were still needed, but old relationships and contracts had them over a barrel to some extent. Eventually White's listed dealers on their website, and the most you could do as a dealer was place a White's logo on your website, which linked to the White's dealer info page on the White's website. You still could not do direct sales on your own website. In theory you were allowed to sell a small number of detectors outside your immediate local area, but you could also be sure somebody would complain if you did. White's wasted a huge amount of time chasing down and chastising dealers for the crime of selling their detectors on the wrong side of some line. Then White's tried selling machines on their own website, and gave a kickback to the dealer into whose area they were selling. Having local dealers but then getting between the dealer and the local customer. How weird is that? It was insanity. I was a multiline dealer at the time, and a very large White's dealer based purely on the numbers I moved locally. I was also early in seeing the potential of the internet, and drove many more sales via our website. Of Fisher, Garrett, Minelab, Tesoro, and eventually XP. But White's was basically invisible on our website as I simply went with what I could sell online without getting hassled... at the expense of possible White's sales, since they were not even represented. By the time White's lightened up on dealers it was too late. I'm sure it was Jimmy fighting all this to the bitter end that had a lot to do with White's finally cutting ties with him. The net effect of all this distributor control and full scale suppression of dealership selling via the internet was predictable. Dealers switched to emphasizing other brands. Any casual consumer Googling for metal detectors would hardly know White's existed. It was just not benign neglect of the internet, it was active suppression of the greatest marketing tool ever invented. This was one reason why newer people getting into being dealers ignored White's in favor of other companies that allowed internet sales. Many newer dealers were only becoming dealers to take advantage of the internet, and were not interested in regular storefront sales. White's cut themselves out of the loop.
    5 points
  8. I explained on another thread that I was interested in giving the MDT 8000 a spin looking for gold nuggets in trashy locations. All mining camps are places where supplies were hauled in, and none of it left the site, but is scattered everywhere. Miners were not into wasting time, and if possible built their shack, or cabin, or small town, right in the middle of where they were mining. It is not uncommon therefore that there is good gold right in and around some of the trashiest locations in old mining camps. Time has passed and often the wood is gone, rotted away, or left behind when the structures burned to the ground. Old nails and remnants of rusted cans are the most common items, but every manner of metal item that might be needed to survive and mine in the wilderness might be found. There are detectors that might do better on the tiniest gold nuggets than the Tarsacci MDT 18000, but the MDT has a hot 18 kHz mode that is more than sufficient for common VLF nugget hunting tasks. I knew without even trying it that the MDT 8000 would have the sensitivity I was looking for. My main question was whether it offered anything I could not live without for finding gold nuggets in locations littered with ferrous trash. It is also very common in mining areas that the ground is quite mineralized, though that is not something that is universal. I gave the MDT a go at a location where there used to be a shack built on some gold bearing ground out in the Nevada desert. The shack is gone, but there are plenty of cans, remnants of cans, nails, door hinges, bed springs, stove parts, etc. All the metal stuff that was ever brought there, but was not valuable enough to be scavenged as the years passed. The bottom line is the MDT 8000 did not disappoint, and I did manage to find a gold nugget in the limited amount of time I had. The nugget is interesting to me in that after cleaning it weighs exactly 1 gram, as weighed on my very accurate digital powder scales. I find a lot of nuggets that weigh about a gram, but I don't really recall ever finding one that was 100% spot on before. It's probably happened and I did not take notice of it, but this time I did. Gold nugget fresh out of the ground Exactly 1.00 gram! The good news is I did not find anything particularly difficult about using the MDT 8000 on this short test run. I bounced back and forth between mixed mode and disc mode a bit, and far preferred mixed mode. I am big on audio information, usually running detectors in full tones and preferring modulated audio. I also prefer having visual target id information available, I'll take all the tools I can get, but in general I hunt by ear and prefer complex audio. Many people would find the way I run my detectors to be too noisy or busy but with nearly 50 years of detecting under my belt my detectors talk to me and I want to hear everything they have to say. So mostly mixed mode, black sand and salinity off, sensitivity to max, and ground balance manual 668 on this ground. This is admittedly a very preliminary report based on limited use. However, It does not take me long to come to general conclusions about metal detectors. The Tarsacci MDT 8000 is more than capable for the task of VLF nugget detecting, with gold sensitivity as good or better than popular prospecting models running in the 18 - 20 kHz range. While the machine is very capable, there are a couple things that left me shrugging my shoulders a little bit. First, the audio. The tones chosen for revealing non-ferrous targets are extremely high, with the high tone being almost out of my discernible frequency range. Imagine a "tink" sound like tapping a glass bottle with a knife handle. I have some definite high frequency hearing loss, and while the MDT is usable for me, I'd be lying if I said I loved the audio. There are no tone adjustments I am aware of on the MDT, so it falls into the realm of something I just have to live with. There is some ability to modify the response by perhaps trying different headphones looking for those that deliver the tones as they are in the best fashion possible, but that's about it. The other thing is that many discriminating detectors have a common enemy, the flat remnants of steel cans. Think steel cans, thin wall wood stoves, thin steel roofing... bits and pieces of flat steel anything. Coin and jewelry hunters are quite familiar with the challenges presented by bottle caps. If anything the problem is worse in old mining camps due to the volume and variety of this type of trash item. And unfortunately the MDT 8000 is as prone to calling these ferrous targets non-ferrous as are multitudes of other detectors. That's not a knock on the MDT, but it's a bit of magic that if present would make it or any machine stand out in these types of situations. Some problem items, and a small brass item One of the first non-ferrous targets I found with the MDT 8000 is some kind of very small brass.... something. A little pin-like object. I was impressed by this find before I found the gold nugget, and it alone told me the MDT had the hots needed for the job. I can only speculate how the MDT would do with a small coil... no doubt extremely well on very small targets. For now however the coil that comes with the MDT 8000 is the only one available, and since this machine is aimed at the beach market, all the push from other people seems to be for a larger coil. I'd be surprised therefore if a smaller coil is ever made for the machine. The existing coil is very good, though for nugget detecting it would benefit from a solid bottom scuff cover/skid plate, to make it less prone to hanging up on sticks or sharp edged rocks. What about the target id on the gold nugget? I have to admit I was paying no attention to target id at all so do not know. I was just listening for any medium and high non-ferrous tones and digging those. To sum up, I am not here to promote the Tarsacci MDT 8000 as a gold nugget detector and am not saying anyone should go out and get one just for that purpose. I would say however that if anyone has this detector, it is as capable, if not more so, of performing the task as many detectors made specifically for gold nugget prospecting. I plan on giving the detector another and more lengthy workout at another location in the future, though it may be a few weeks before I report back. In the meantime, for anyone with an interest, I recommend watching this video below by Keith Southern. Pay particular attention to the sounds the detectors makes to get an idea of what I mentioned above as regards the tones. And let's close with one more look at that first gold nugget with the Tarsacci MDT 8000. One gram gold nugget found by Steve at trashy site using Tarsacci MDT 8000
    4 points
  9. I would rather have a root canal than hunt dry sand. Been there done that, but that's just me. (BTW... never had a root canal, but I've heard stories!!!) I prefer the water and with that at least waist deep. It seems the further you are submerged the less trash and as Joe B has done... if trashy, dig the deep faint targets. It really is all about location. I intend to hunt the East coast of Florida if the AQ ever appears at my door and that will be only the long wet sand slopes. On the Gulf side... the water.
    4 points
  10. Well, I took the plunge and bought my first Nokta-Makro product. I went to my nearest dealer and he had one left. Just the base pinpointer without coil. This actually worked out better for me because I was primarily interested in the 8" coil and didn't want to have to purchase the 5.5" which I doubt I'll ever use. So I paid just $99 for the base unit and he ordered me a coil for $84. This way I pay $183 and get the coil I want, rather than $160 and $84 = $244. Doing it this way, you would not get the nifty carry case however. You'd have to order that separate if you want it. In a few days when the coil comes in I'll leave some thoughts on that. For now, I'll say this and rather begrudgingly...I think this pinpointer is the best deal going right now, even if you don't want the full setup and just want a pinpointer. Like every other NM product released particularly over the last couple years it's very well built, and it is built with the future and innovation in mind. I didn't want to like this company, for a lot of reasons, but they have more to do with my own sentimentality for American and even Western products. Particularly here in the US I didn't want to see companies like Whites boxed into a no win, no profit situation. So, it's never been about performance. I watch the forums and social media enough to know the performance and build quality was there. I needed a product I just couldn't resist. At first I thought that might be an Anfibio or a Simplex, but even they haven't broken down that wall. The original full Pulsedive was already almost too good to resist on its own. Then when Dilek quietly announced the 8" coil and I saw the evidence that it was boosting depth by 30% and coverage too obviously, that set me over the finish line. We know what an underwater metal detector costs in this hobby. Their are competing products that don't offer this much, at a far greater price. Many people seem to do quiet well with just straight forward Pulse induction, and you can't beat 60m (200 feet). Let's face it, if you're looking for lost jewels or a ship wreck, disc is probably mostly out of the question anyway. It would be for me. So not only will this be a pinpointer for me, it will likely be my anything past 10ft primary diver for a while. The base unit is rather large for a pinpointer, but that's to be expected with something that converts to another form, and I don't mind that at all. There's also a possibly unintended advantage here where if any part of this machine fails, it's so compartmentalized you can replace it rather cheaply and easily. The unit feels good in the hand and to me is easy to program/adjust. So far, I have done limited depth comparison, but it seems to be on par with some of the more powerful pinpointers, like my TRX and Tek-Point. If straight up pinpointer depth is all that matters you still seem better off with a TRX, but not by much at all now. That gap is closing and could probably be filled via software at some point. Like the TRX, you can replace any wearable external part on it, including shell. Unlike the TRX you can add on to this (probably in more ways than coil in the future), possibly update its software?, recharge its built in lithium ion battery, pair it with existing and future products, and clearly see it's flashlight. $99 vs $160 bear in mind as you process that. With the base pinpointer I got two caps, several gasket seals, a lanyard, charging/update facility cord, and a well constructed holster. I have no complaints about field performance. Like the TRX and Tek-Point, The power is there to pinpojnt objects above the ground before you ever begin to dig. If you're one of those that thinks that's too much power for a pinpointer, you can dial it back as much as you like too. I do prefer a tip only pinpointer, but I'm not much bothered by those that detect along the entire shaft either. These are my initial impressions. They may be better classified as a value comparison, but I'll leave that up to Steve. I'll share more of the smaller details and coil info when it comes in and I gain more experience with it. At this point though, if I were just starting out, or needed 1 good pinpointer, I think I'd be foolish not to consider this the best deal out there and a no brainer If it could be my only unit. I don't see myself parting with the TRX because it still is the flat out depth demon and I admire it just as a pedal to the floor piece of technology. I do think I will be parting with my Tek-Point however if all else goes well here. This is what any future Tek-Point needs to compete with though, and that's not about depth either. Tek has the punch. It's the innovation and features that set it apart. Update: initially I assumed updateable software thinking I'd read that somewhere. I'm not sure this is the case, and may have mixed up descriptions in my head. I haven't been able to corroborate that yet.
    3 points
  11. My first metal detector in 1972 was a White's Coinmaster 4. I became a White's dealer in 1976. Over the years I owned the following: White's Beachhunter ID, White's Coinmaster IV, White's Coinmaster V Supreme, White's DFX, White's Goldmaster, White's Goldmaster II, White's Goldmaster V/SAT, White's Goldmaster 3, White's Goldmaster 4/B, White's Goldmaster 24K, White's GMT, White's M6, White's MXT, White's MX Sport, White's Surfmaster II, White's Surf PI, White's Surf PI Pro, White's Surf PI Dual Field, White's Sierra Pulse Pro, White's TDI, White's TDI SL, White's Vision, White's V3i And as a dealer I "borrowed" and played with countless more models. Right as of this moment I still have a DFX, V3i, and Goldmaster 24K I got in the fall of 2018. It's just now sinking in that after 48 years of using White's metal detectors, I have probably officially purchased my last new White's. I guess it is not impossible yet somebody could purchase the company and somehow take things on to new and improved models. Unfortunately, I just do not see that as being very likely. The name may continue, but White's as an industry leader is probably nothing more now than a memory. It's hard to believe that a company that produced something as sophisticated as the V3i in 2009 is now done.... I was still harboring a hope that somehow a V4 would see the light of day. In fact I figured they either pull a rabbit out of their hat, or it was over. Unfortunately it proved to be the latter. I do know one thing. My V3i is in pristine condition, and I am going to treat it with kid gloves now. If there was ever a detector that might become a collectors item, the V3i is it. I do not think we will see anything remotely like it ever again. The Goldmaster 24k is a very good detector, and thanks to Tom Boykin I got to use it early on and write my last big review of a White's detector. I always felt a little bad about the MX Sport debacle, so it was nice to end things on an upbeat note. A picture of my last detector from White's Electronics, quite a difference from my first "big box" Goldmaster in 1973.
    3 points
  12. Oh MY! A few weeks ago I pocketed 50 bottle caps from surface and Equinox. I was digging all signals. Thank you for cleaning up whatever area you hunted! After seeing this, I agree with Joe that the water and early winter is the spot for the AQ
    3 points
  13. I was on my way back from a detecting trip near Winnemucca. I stopped in at Armadillo in Grants Pass, Oregon and saw this hanging on the wall. Apparently, there are only three in existence. This one belongs to Sam. From what I understand, she received this for being the top salesperson in the company with this model. I think this would have been a way better color than the original black!
    3 points
  14. SGD 4 x 18650 cells gets about 7 hours of decent voltage on the TDIBH 👍
    3 points
  15. PPP, is a really simple mod... First, you have to pierce the original plastic screw cap in the same diameter as the 3.5mm earphones jack elastic body. The smoothness of the hole itself is not critical (I know I could do much better drilling), but the "face" of the screw piece has to be smooth and even in order to have good complete contact with the o-ring when you connect them. (see below) Next and most important, you must find an o-ring that fits perfectly to the earphones 3.5mm jack elastic body, and is wide enough to be almost the same diameter as the plastic plugs "face". When you insert the earphones 3.5mm jack in the Nox jack with the above o-ring in it's body, you then screw the modified plastic plug until it's face comes flash with the o-ring and that's it. The screw will move forward the 0-ring against the jack and it will watertight it. Now the water and-or sand can only insert between the plastic screw's hole margin and the o-ring, but cannot insert the jack hole itself. *Joe D above gave a much better alternative (bungee wire extension that has a ML waterproof end and a 1/8 plug end) that I may try also, but as you know, the Nox jack itslef is waterproof inside the tiny hole and the extra o-ring I used is already a step up. Don't forget to rinse after every use and it should be fine! **Another option would be to use the cord and jack of the minelab's yellows that I already have (that would be a perfect solution regarding sealing and strenghtening of the earphones thin cord also, but don't wanna mess with the yellows since they are brand new and nice to have a back-up in my backpack)
    3 points
  16. Yes Tony, We have sure been taken to the cleaners in OZ with there rip off prices. But you know me well and to me the WHITES V3I is the ants pants of detectors even though its 10 years old. Every time a set up a new program it always has the advantages of working its way around to create mind blowing capabilities. Once you learn how to program the v it will reward you with some outstanding results. I have had many many detectors since 1977 and the v3i will stay with me to the end. Thanks WHITES. I hope the name can continue on with a little bit of luck.
    3 points
  17. The thread is over two years old. It was a ton of work making the conversion, but very necessary to “future proof” the website. The main thing I don’t have to worry about is keeping up with the never ending parade of new devices and browser changes. I’ve been very pleased with the result and glad I made the leap.
    3 points
  18. A lot of bottle caps will have a ferrous “edge” to the signal if using tones. But some just sound good so you have to dig them. My deepest signal so far was a quiet little tone in sand. Over ten scoops later there was the bottle cap. I started getting the ferrous edge when I got close, but by then I was determined to see it with my eyeballs.
    3 points
  19. The only thing I caution since you water sealed it up so tight is to avoid using it in direct sun and high temps on the beach out of the water. I think you might suffer some overtemperature effects under those conditions. Since you are detecting in the water for the most part should not be a problem. Also, rinse out that Nox headphone jack with fresh water after each use, even though you will probably not get a lot of water intrusion with you setup, any salt water whatsoever in that jack will eventually corrode the metallic h/p jack components. Good luck looks like you are well on your way to cleaning up on your local beaches. Hopefully tourism will pick up again to refresh your beaches.
    3 points
  20. See the link phrunt provides above. The owner is misrepresenting or does not know what he is selling. Bad sign. It is not a Gold Bug 2, but earlier model. Runs at low gain 19 kHz Nowhere close to the Gold Bug 2, which replaced it. But decent on larger nuggets in bad ground. I would have to argue that not even a CZ3D is desirable/better than newer options. There is an analog nostalgia crowd that might argue such. I think my wired rotary phone made more reliable phone calls than my cell phone. But I’m still not going back to a rotary phone.
    3 points
  21. I just happened across this video and thought I'd post it. I still find any of these simple videos to not include 'off the coil' sensing of a target. They show field restricted to just the edges of the coil. We all know the field is larger than the coil. I say I'm drawn to some of my targets like a moth to a flame. Some days I am better at this than others. It's the FRINGE that can make a difference.
    2 points
  22. To this point, I wish that ML had provided the option to select the gold mode modulated audio as an option on the other modes and had provided the option to select tone ID audio with the gold modes. My solution is to just switch between gold mode and the preferred non-gold search mode profile suitable for the my target objectives and site conditions, as necessary, using the user profile slot. The ability to quickly switch to the user profile slot is an underappreciated bonus feature of the 800 (though I wish the button resided on the face of the control panel) as well as the common misunderstanding that gold mode is primarily only useful for prospecting.
    2 points
  23. In a previous post few years ago, I read where a forum member I think it was REG was stating he had given Whites the information on how to do several modifications to improve performance. I think this was about Dec. 11, 2016 1. build battery pack using Panasonic 3400mah. 2. modify filters to allow for faster swing speed. (reduce value of c20 and c21 from 0.47uf to 0.22uf). and a few other changes. After that said, the TDI SL I just purchased shows it is a 2015 model. Am I correct in thinking these mods. were not done at factory? I am going to open up my unit and check c20 and c21. Also I purchased a Minelab Commander 15"x12" mono coil to try on my TDI SL. for Saltwater beach moderate mineralization. Will this improve performance better than stock coils or should I look at better options for the coil choice. I was hoping to also use for relic hunting at some old camp sites. After speaking with Jim, I have ordered the Panasonic 3400mah batteries to build my upgrade pack, and if need be will try to mod myself. I am new to this forum, have been hunting since 1994 or 1995. got away from detecting for a while then came back to my senses, forgot the motto you work to live not live to work lol. I have learned more from reading the forums that I have ever learned by my mistakes. I hope I can contribute something to this forum and pay forward for all of the ones that have helped me!
    2 points
  24. The price on White’s detectors in Australia was absolutely outrageous and I emailed the company letting them know exactly that. I managed to buy all of my White’s detectors from US dealers who were not supposed to do so but they were good to me. The number of Aussies looking to buy White’s products generally didn’t have this luxury and when they saw the local prices couldn’t run to Minelab fast enough. White’s would have made some significant inroads into the Australian market by either selling directly from the USA or asking for a please explain from Aussie dealers for the exorbitant markups. I know we don’t have the volume of sales when compared to the US but that doesn’t account for the price differences. I got my TDIBH from the US for about $1500 Australian dollars.....local dealers here wanted about $2300. I saved $800 !!!
    2 points
  25. He isn't.......his real name is Marion Morrison. 😀
    2 points
  26. Thank you all! I have miles and miles of virgin shorelines here to keep me busy for a looong time (all the finds above where recovered from just a short 100m of beach...and with same target intensity every day..will return next week there to find more staff), and also can't wait for some trips to our "hot" Greek islands (mykonos, santorini etc) in the end of the tourist session to see if I can get any "international" gold there! The main thing that gets me so excited, is the luck of aluminum junk underwater...I mean, almost every signal is a coin or lead (ooor something even better..gold..silver..even relics) and not aluminum at all...obviously, people dont use/through aluminum junk underwater, and even the minimum amount of aluminum is so light that the waves take care of it....And of course not to mention the easy recovery underwater also (just some fanning) witch helps with time efficiency! If you remember my older comments, I had a really hard time in the dry part of my pebble beaches with all these aluminum junk and difficult recovery diging through the pebbles...the underwater conditions are completelly different and remains for me to see if other alike old beaches will behave the same. ps. Chase thanks, indeed..the temperature issue was my only real concern before sealing everything and I was already alerted by a post of yours in another thread regarding the temperature issue..however, when underwater temp is not a problem indeed due to water-cooling effect as you say, and I really don't hunt in the daylight (dry beach or inland) in summer days..only night hunts in dry beach in summer so I will be fine I guess. Furthermore, when I reach to the beach, I try to submerge the machine asap and not leave it in sunlight in order to not have expansion/contruction issues due to extreme temp differences..And of course, same as everything that's used in salt water, a full water rinse after every hunt and some silicon sprey where needed is a total must. However only time will tell if the mods I did will give any side effects, I believe not but will see. Best to all, Argyris
    2 points
  27. Thanks. No really small pieces of foil. Most of the foil was decent size and maybe if I played with the pulse rate or or combination of other settings I may be able to rid some more. But I would like to find that point where the smallest ring and the foil meet. I don't want to shift that range away from small rings... if that is even possible? And yes, I dig a lot 😄 always have and always will (until something on me breaks) 🤕
    2 points
  28. It's like a soap opera, but real. Maybe there should be a tell all book written I used whites for many years exclusively from Coinmaster V Supreme until DFX. Then Minelab.... Now? Anyone who produces something I need and like. I hope White's re-invents itself. I look at things differently that I used to. I'm not really sad if a business dies, I just let it go and move on. If Whites makes a detector I like, I will invest my money with them. If they choose to rehash old designs or create new ones that don't do what I need, then I give my money to someone else. It really boils down to leadership in the end.
    2 points
  29. Got out to my test garden finally (weather is bad and I'm sensitive/allergic to chiggers but finally toughed it out -- I may pay for that in a couple days). I'm going to give an intro and if you're not going to read it (and heed it) then you probably shouldn't read the rest, either. Introduction to and Fundamentals of Metal Detector Depth Measurements One of the most often asked questions about detectors, new and old, is "how deep will it detect?" That's an easy question, too easy. The only appropriate answer is "that depends...". Let's take a look at what this depends upon, in not necessarily the order of importance: 1) Target goal -- coins, large jewelry, small jewelry, gold, platinum, or silver jewelry, natural gold nuggets (and what size), non-ferrous relics, ferrous relics, large caches, small caches...? (I'm sure you can think of more.) 2) Natural ground conditions -- wet, dry, how mineralized (i.e. Fe3O4 content), salt content, ground phase, surface rubble, hot rocks, cold stones? 3) Site conditions -- ferrous & iron trash, aluminum trash, lead shot and/or bullets and fishing sinkers, gun casings? 4) Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) -- too many to mention; you've just got to figure out a way to work around it by adjusting your detector, etc. 5) Detector options -- what coil(s) do you have or plan to use? 6) How do you determine if a target signals or not? Other factors also exist, such as the skill and (very important) objectivity of the detectorist doing the test. These are impossible to quantify but should not be ignored. Now that we've defined parameters, let's get on to the test I actually performed. Obviously I didn't cover all possible situations! Conditions of this test 1) Target -- (two different) -- 5 inch deep USA Memorial Cent (95% Copper, 5% Zinc) and 6 inch deep USA Jefferson 5 cent piece (25% Nickel, 75% Copper). 2) Natural ground conditions -- pretty dry (but not like late summer desert). We've only had about an inch of rain in the past 4 weeks. Fe3O4 reading of 2 to 3 bars on both the Fisher F75 and Fisher Gold Bug Pro. This could roughly be characterized as 'moderate mineralization'. Grass covered smooth ground with no rocks that my detectors are sensitive to, and no known salt content. 3) Site conditions -- Around these two buried targets I've removed all background metal that any of my detectors are sensitive to. 4) EMI -- now we're getting to the painful part. Residential neighborhood and close to my house, so I have to deal with various sources of EMI. I'll discuss more below when I talk about the settings I used. 5) Detector options -- Since I'm doing a comparison test I chose coils which are roughly equivalent -- for the F75 I used the Detech Ultimate 13 inch round; for the Equinox 800 I used the Minelab 12" x 15" (largest of the three available coils). As mentioned, using square root of height X width for an eliptical, that gives 13.4" as the equivalent round coil in the case of the Equinox elliptical. I consider that close enough, and the best I think I can do finding coils that match these two detectors. 6) How do you determine if a target signals or not? This has to be subjective. I used a threshold technique in all cases, listening for a clear signal above threshold (similar to how native gold detectorists typically hunt). In most cases I could squeeze out another half inch, maybe hearing a warble, but when that happened I backed off that half inch and confirmed I was getting a clear signal -- then recorded the clear signal depth. For the Equinox I had the added feature that I could look at the digital target ID and see if I was getting something close to expected there, although in the end my ears were just as good of an indicator, and maybe more objective. My depth resolution was 1/2 inch, meaning that was the smallest increment I used. That's also my estimate of the measurement uncertainty. My method was to stack up wood 'shims' next to the target (not covering the target sweetspot, if that even matters) -- slightly off to the side. Thus the coil rode the top of the shim pile. Note that each coin was only a certain depth in the ground (5" for the 1 cent, 6" for the 5 cent) and thus this is a kind of hybrid ground+air test. The values below are the total target-to-coil distance, so the sum of depth in ground plus coil height above ground = shim stack height. Detector Setups (modes & settings). Fisher F75 Ltd ("black") Motion All Metal mode, Ground Balanced, Gain = 99 (max), threshold just above silent (a bit wobbly), internal speaker. (This was the only mode and settings used. I'll comment later on why.) Minelab Equinox 800 -- 3 setups (all ground balanced separately): a) Field 2, multi-frequency, recovery speed = 5, iron bias FE=0, no discrcrimination (all 50 channels open), 2 tones, gain = 22 (highest I could operate and not be swamped by EMI). b) Gold 2, 20 kHz single frequency, recovery speed = 5, gain = 25 (max). (Note: EMI was terrible in multi-frequency, even with lower gain.) c) Gold 2, 40 kHz single frequency, other settings same as b) above. Results. For the 5" depth-in-ground 1 cent (high conductor) the F75 picked it up 1/2" deeper than the 800's a) and b) settings above (I didn't measure for c) settings). That is, total target --> coil distance 11 inches for the F75 and 10.5 inches for the Equinox. So slight edge to F75, but right at the (estimated) uncertainty limit. For the 6" depth-in-ground 5 cent (low conductor) the order of performance (worst to best were as follows): Eqx setting a) -- 11 inch total target --> coil distance. F75 & Eqx setting b) -- 13.5 inch total ------------------- these two tied in depth. Eqx setting c) -- 15.5 inch total -------------------- clear winner for these conditions! Summary, Conclusions, and final comments. I emphasize that these kinds of tests depend strongly upon conditions. I've tried my best to define what conditions and settings I was dealing with / using. In particular I had to conform to the EMI environment present. The F75 was slightly better (but at the limit of uncertainty) for the high conductor. Half an inch, at least in my book, isn't much and other factors (e.g. target ID accuracy) could easily outweigh this small increment. But the F75 did outperform, slightly. For the low conductor, the Eqx 800 in Gold 2 mode and operating at 40 kHz was the clear depth winner by 2 inches. The most surprising thing to me is that Gold 2, 40 kHz clobbered Field 2 Multi by 4 inches! Previous testing has shown that the discriminate processes of the F75 are noticeably inferior depthwise for my test garden. I did try the F75 in non-motion all-metal, a mode that today is almost unheard of (but it was standard back in the late 1970's), although many detectors use this mode for their pinpoint function. In some air tests I've done with large objects (Weber Kettle charcoal grill where you measure not in inches but in feet!) this mode is super sensitive but because of its instability with time and other quirks it's not a commonly used mode and I was unable to get it to stabilize (it may have been picking up on nearby iron trash in the ground which the other modes and detectors were insensitive to). The Equinox in particular has hundreds to even into the thousands of setting combinations. I chose the ones I thought were both most appropriate and also most sensitive to the targets, within the EMI limits of my site. I'm not interested in investigating further unless there is a big gap (oversight) in my tests. One final point about the Equinox vs. F75: as pointed out in the initial post in this thread the F75-plus model sells for $650, which turns out to be the same price as the Equinox 600 (and $250 less than the Eqx 800). But the 600 model doesn't have a gold mode, so it looks like if you lock the dollar cost to being equal (ignoring the cost difference when buying larger coils for both F75 and Eqx 600 where the Ultimate coil in USA is about $50 cheaper than the ML 12"x15"), the F75 has a bit of a depth edge in my test garden, and particularly my EMI environment. Of course depth isn't everything, to most of us anyway. And as always YMMV!
    2 points
  30. OK, I have been involved in a two month makeover and upgrade process for this website. The main goal is to get rid of all the old portions of the website so everything is a common format, look and feel throughout the site. This will insure all pages render properly on any device from a small phone to a large screen PC. This put additional load on the existing hardware resources, and the website has bogged down considerably in the last month. I could count the seconds waiting for a page to load, and error messages were too common. This morning the site was upgraded to a new server with both upgraded software and hardware. For my part I am seeing massively better performance now, pages loading almost instantly and everything just much snappier. How does it seem to you? Better? No difference? Worse? Let me know if you see any glitches starting this morning - anything before today does not matter any more. The process is not quite done. I have about 50 more old pages to convert, and my goal is to have this done before the end of next week. There are more performance tweaks I can undertake but with if the site stays as fast as it is now the benefits will probably not be as noticeable if at all. The most visible upgrade I will do soon will be to convert everything to SSL secure communications to bring the site up to current recommended standards. That may cause a little turmoil with images served from outside sources but I expect any disruption there to be minimal Been a fair bit of work and I always stress a little before server moves, etc. However, the benefits should be considerable moving forward both for me as admin and for all you as members. Thanks again for your patience during this process!
    1 point
  31. Nice hunt .One day you may bump into a gold coin in spots like those.I don't think to many people can claim a gold coin and a nugget in the same day.
    1 point
  32. This is a demonstration of the Gold SPOT™ being used as a portable gold pan. It's extremely effective. Don't worry about the first few minutes where I am out of frame. Leo Aranza, my buddy, takes over and the rest of the video is well framed. -Doc
    1 point
  33. Should be good!! We will see!! I can always add more length! The bungee was a "must have" though!! Thanks for "making" me look!!🤣👍👍
    1 point
  34. I think you'll be very impressed with their sound quality and volume underwater Joe....! Mine also came with some behind the ear additional earplugs to stay put but don't seem to need it....if you use the right size in-ear plug they won't come out at all...at least in my experience so far! ps. Make sure you bought the ones with the normal lenght 1m cord (cause I remember there is a short cord version also) Can't wait for your opinion when you try them underwater mate! Other than that, only time will tell if they last..so best of luck to both of us with our purchase!
    1 point
  35. I see it was recovered in great shape, not exposed to the 157 years of farm field fertilizer and soil corrosive effects mine experienced. Attached is what a pristine version of my token would look like.
    1 point
  36. Nice relic finds, especially the 1863 CW Patriotic token with "Army and Navy". Found one here in Colorado at a Civil War era fort and the back reads " The Federal Union It Must and Shall Be Preserved".
    1 point
  37. This is not about money (frankly I wouldn't even know how to price it) it is about the find, what it took to recover it and the historical context of the item itself and where I found it, especially if it a unique "personal" item like that fashioned by some soldier on a battlefield/campsite or a native American's kettle point. Those all outweigh any financial considerations and is the same logic I use in reverse and is the reason I also seldom purchase relics. The historical context may be partially there, but the lack of an interesting story about how it came to be in my possession makes a bought artifact less attractive to me. In other words, it is less about what the object is, but the complete picture of how it found its way into the ground and back out and in my hands. It serves as a permanent record of the experience and I enjoy looking back on that experience in my displays just as someone likes to pour through their photograph album. Just the way I roll. It is also why I am a million miles away from the "detector has paid for itself" mind set. I don't mind finding gold and silver jewelry and modern coins, but I get a lot more satisfaction from finding items of historic value versus intrinsic value. I have never detected for natural gold, however. There I would likely be conflicted between cashing it in for its intrinsic value and admiring its natural beauty. Naw...I would cash it in.
    1 point
  38. I'll try to explain my point of view like a child. If I'd have to describe with a word the entire White's brand's impact today, I would say "Old". Four ancestral basic questions for an easy marketing plan are: Who are You?+What do You Do?+What do You sell?+How can I buy it? Well, I see over 70years factory's background, doing nothing new right now, closing production and sales and no way to buy stuff from them. Please rewind the process back in the years with me: Was the factory doing new plans on future's brand new projects? Was the production line updated with new technologies and trained workers? Was the dealer's + distributor's system improved? Was the factory doing advertising bombing way before a newborn project was in the way to appear? Hard to shrink everything in few steps, but here is the trick! Nothing today is easy unless you MAKE it easy for me and the entire world! Competition is out there ready to push you continuously with videos, mails, promises and believe me, it works. People want to know what's in your boiler soon as You have first gunpowder to burn! I close with one last word: Equinox. Come on!!!!!!
    1 point
  39. I got a piece of wire stuck up in the area inside the Minelab scoop where the handle is molded into the bowl of the scoop, and spent 10 minutes trying to figure out why a scoop that looked empty was giving me a target sound. I have also had rocks get stuck up in therre. I would like it better if they had molded the handle on the outside of the scoop. You may like it because of the pointed tip, it is similar to many gardening trowels. Of course that was before I had Glaucoma surgery and Cataract surgery so maybe I could see a piece of wire now. 😀 Doc
    1 point
  40. I just finished the next iteration of my 9V to AAA battery adapter for my Pro-Pointer AT (Carrot). You can read about it in my blog post that will be uploaded soon (see my profile for the link, if you're that curious), but most of the "juice" is in the pictures. In case you're wondering (or you don't recall my prior blog posts about this building process😞 1. Yes, waterproof integrity is maintained.2. Yes, the performance when using this adapter is identical to using a regular 9V battery.3. Yes, this can still use a regular 9V battery.4. Yes, runtime is less than with a regular 9V battery, but should be enough to get you at least a full day (8+ hours) of run time. I estimate this will get you about 1/3 of whatever an alkaline 9V battery will get you.5. Yes, this can run on other types of AAA cells, including NiCd, NiMH, lithium (primary; think Energizer Ultimate Lithiums) and alkaline.6. I did this modification because I like tinkering and because I really hate 9V batteries. Background info of prior builds:
    1 point
  41. Excellent report Argyris, You can buy a bungee wire extension that has a ML waterproof end, and a 1/8 plug end! Or make one up yourself! Just a little soldering, and the ends needed! I like the earbuds!, i may have to try those out! Great finds!👍👍
    1 point
  42. Good report, You kicked butt for 2 plus hours...WOW! Lotta targets......No doubt from the pictures drysand is Nox territory, or VLF ...I think the "AQ" will shine for you this winter when the tides are low and you can slip out into the wetsand...Those are the hunts I'm excited to see for you. ..☠️
    1 point
  43. 😁 ...........LINK............
    1 point
  44. I know many have been waiting to see just how much depth is lost in the reject mods. I ran short on time this morning but was able to get in one good video test...I figured what better then a 22k gold ring for my buddy Dew... And let me say I'm still not the best at the settings, sweep speed, the machine itself.....and all of the other details that go into getting the best results with the machine that is going to take months for me to learn...... (Just a Disclaimer for those who feel different about (my testing) on the "AQ" ........over on the other forums-😁) Also I had some interesting Messages from a few that felt I did not clean out the area of the PVC pipe before doing the testing..well this video is for those..on the other forums again.. Everyone here on Steves forum have been very thankful and kind..So thank You!
    1 point
  45. It's Ok......I said Sad......,. 🙂 I was sad it drained down..It was a trick getting the hole deep enough then filling the tube from the incoming water...and trying to get the pvc back in the hole before in caved in.. I had hot glued the bottom of the tube...the reason it was still about hafe full i was less then 10 foot from the water.. As it sets right now I'll be cutting back on all testing and getting back on track hunting. hope get some digs of gold on video...After this evenings hunt..I am very proud of my AQ...It's freaking deep...and loves gold..video coming..
    1 point
  46. 😲😲 Don't wait too long! My age is creeping up.
    1 point
  47. Steve,will look forward to your review and hopefully not just on wet beaches but also general use if that is your gameplan,do they ship these detectors to the UK or just mainly the US ?? as the ability to be used on sites littered with iron does seem to be the main thing that is grabbing my attention,some of my sites are really iron infested roman sites. Very tempting i must admit,will await your review.
    1 point
  48. This image is from of a test report carried out on volcanic sand do not confuse the volcanic sand with the other white or black sands It's not the same thing at all on the volcanic sand setting you lose the multi tone it automatically switches off (mute mode) then you set the rejection of iron by the rejection knob you have the choice push the rejection = you will lose big gold rings and lose deep (we're talking about volcanic sand) cut only the volcanic sand and dig out the tester of this report who knows well / his beach prefer to cut only volcanic sand and dig everything I would've done the same thing on its beaches / never prospect the report (in gold) is going to be huge the test hunter plans to make more than 500gr per monthwhen he has the right beach conditions here, the test was carried out at one season or normally it does not chase ..... and you see the result !!!!!!!!!! saw this first test over 6 days I think , It's possible.. but in this case, you have to dig a lot and clean everything again, once / the volcanic beaches are virgin // they have never been prospected no detector works on this sand tried vlf / multi frequency / TR or other pi so I think on this type of sand there is interest in making a little effort but it is not compulsory you can push the rejection all the way you will still find gold (but you will have less ...) you can also use volcanic sand mode on normal white or black sand the iron cut will be even stronger than in Ton & Mute modes you will still find gold (but you will have less ...) It is a choice to make the thing to remember is that AQ can find gold / there or nobody can do it ... it's up to you to find the right settings according to the sand conditions and depending on the efforts you are ready to make to always find more gold
    1 point
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