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I read on another forum that a member there had spoken with him and it sounds like he is going to be okay (survived). Best wishes for a speedy and full recovery Joe!

I got out twice last week to hit the negatives. All were found with a TDI BH waist to chest deep in a drysuit. Both golds are 14k. The Eagle is silver. Water was cold but with this many targets it keeps you warm digging plus yellow warms you up also. 2 silver rings are missing as my Grandkids got them. It used to be just my wife who would claim my treasures.

Prayers are being sent your way Joe.

Just to be clear- based on this comment from another forum: "Talked to Joe tonight , he sounded a bit rough , however he said he will be able to go home this weekend" It SOUNDS like he is going to be okay (survived) but he could face a tough recovery after all that he went through. There was also a mention of a possible shoulder injury while being pulled from the sea.

After discussions about Joe with my other water hunters, it was suggested to carry a whistle just in case there is an emergency. I went to amazon and bought 2, one for me and another for one of my hunting partners.

Look at your beach reports and find a beach that faces the incoming waves. If the waves are from the SE then you want a beach that faces the SE for example. Look at the wave height and energy. If the waves are 'big' compared to normal then there is a chance that energy will help you with moving up some buried trinkets. You need waves that will move things around and sort them like a gold pan. You are in great luck if these big waves are coming in near a high tide/out going. It is kinda like your fishing tides. Some are better than others. Another thing you want to look at is the wave intervals. If you have waves coming in at less than 10 seconds here that is a good sign. That can be a depositing wave and you use that information in combination with the wind speed and direction. Sometimes you have good everything except the wind is in the wrong direction and the waves don't get pushed over just right so the rocks, weights and GOLD stays in the trough rather than make it up the slope of the beach. You have some things that are pushed up and some things that are 'cut away' from the beach that are too deep. A series of waves hitting a cut stops the energy and at the base of the cut can be your best beach of the year but it doesn't stay that way for long. You have to be there. That can be in the storm. Most beaches get waves from storms hundreds of miles away or from a storm coming onshore. Just a couple of times I've been out in rain gear and there can be good targets in the surf. You can stand there and stuff comes to you. 😍

Information is starting to filter through the dealer network here in Australia now. Exciting times, its been a while since we had a new gold machine. 😇

For those in doubt it was Joe. He's recovering and should be home soon. I let him tell the rest. Mike

Regarding the video in which the Minelab 6000 detector appeared, he speaks Arabic and everyone talks about what he says well Are the Arabs getting the technology before other peoples? Haha, it's a joke, my friends! This person is Hussain Al-Bayati, the exclusive and official agent of the Main Lab in the Middle East, specifically Dubai. He spoke about broad lines around the GPX 6000 detector. The headphone works with bluetooth And also there is a cable entrance to the headphone He mentioned that the device works on any bluetooth headphone It was mentioned that there is an external amplifier for the coils, they are two Carousel size 11 And an oval size 17 by 12 and I think it's mono He also said that there are numbers that are automatic between sensitivity and the ground balance, as in the gold monster He said that he personally found a gold nugget in the GPX 6000 detector, and this can only be found using the gold monster, but the new detector was able to find it and it was not deep And I have tried exploration, no matter how powerful the device will not make the earth produce gold Also, digging for gold nuggets and carrying a gold detector between valleys and mountains to search for money It will not achieve what you want because those who preceded you took what was available, which was attended by minerals And not always I remember 3 years ago that my friend told me that he extracted nuggets totaling 3000 grams and sent me a picture of it, but it is rare cases. I have come to that place that carries gold I found deep pits with a coil size of Z7000 And I found a friend of Abu Laila among them But what I got was 420 grams, and it was the only deal that was useful And then a year passed I only found a few grams of gold Then I retired from this field Which occupied my thinking and dominated my mind.

Even though your question appears as a “general” coil question, since this is a GPX thread, I will answer your question in the context of a GPX PI detector. We are talking primarily the GPX 4500/4800/5000 models. We haven't seen iron rejection advertised as a feature on the GPX 6000 and although it appears the GPX 6000 can utilize DD coils based on the menu settings, we haven't yet seen any DD coils announced or pictured that are compatible with the GPX 6000. PI detectors typically use a single Monoloop winding that acts as both the transmit and receive coil. Pulsed Induction as the name implies, uses pulses instead of a continuous wave like the more common VLF induction balance (IB) detectors to transmit the magnetic field into the ground. A brief pulse is transmitted and then the delayed receive signal is analyzed before a new pulse is transmitted into the ground. The process is so fast that the rapidly repeated pulse/receive cycles appear to be continuous to the user. DD coils on a PI enable the use of separate transmit (left “D”) and receive (right “D”) coils to be used analogous to the IB detectors. The DD enables use of the iron rejection feature on the GPX 4500/4800/5000 model detectors released before the GPX 6000 (GPX iron rejection cannot be used with monoloop coils). But because of the pulsed nature of the transmit signal, the coil can also be re-wired on the fly (on GPX detectors) using a switch to make the DD emulate a Mono coil by making use of both “D’s” to comprise a “bigger” receive coil that can enhance sensitivity (at the expense of iron rejection accuracy) or wire the two “D’s” in opposite polarity to enable EMI noise cancellation (also at the expense of iron rejection accuracy and overall target sensitivity). So in effect I have heard of using two receive coils (as described above) but not two transmit coils. I don’t think there would be any advantage to doing it that I could see. Using two transmit coils would seem to be inefficient from a power usage standpoint due to the resistive power losses in the copper and the whole point of the transmit pulse is to pump as much power as possible into the ground to maximize penetration depth, while the objective of the receive coil is to maximize sensitivity and that is actually enhanced by more copper.

I had been detecting for over the 25 years with many good finds and good times. Went to many organized hunts, meetings and belonged to 2 clubs. Caught an autoimmune as well as a neck/head injury which has made me make some huge changes. Was a fishing guide for 22 years, gave that up, sold the boat, sold the truck, played in a band etc etc. Finally after 6 years the Drs all keep telling me "you need to get out and move around if only for a little while". I tried with my DFX 300 which was just bought prior to this, but it was to heavy to swing for me. Tried my regular DFX, the CZ20 with the belt and nope, nothing worked (they both for sale now). My wife talked to a friend of mine who I used to hunt with and he recommended the Minelab 800. Well, it is much lighter for me and I was able to get out for 1 hour the other day. She also bought me a Lesche digger that was the exact height as my walking sticks to which I use that as my walking stick now. Worked out well. Hopefully little by little I can add some time but for now even a little is great for me. Here is a pic after my first time out in 6 years with the new 800. Take care everyone. There is always someone else worse off somewhere and never give up!

Wishing for a speedy recovery for Joe. As you can see, water hunting at any level from diving on wrecks to swinging ankle deep in the surf and everything in between has an element of risk, regardless of your experience and Joe is one of the most experienced water detectorists I know and he doesn't appear to be someone who is cavalier about safety. Once Joe has recovered and able, I hope he shares the experience online so that we can learn about the circumstances and lessons here. These things can sneak up on you, and the unexpected can happen quickly, and you can be in trouble before you recognize you are in trouble. I read a story of a fatality in the same region just the day after Joe's incident regarding a boater who was ultimately found by the same rescue crew involved in Joe's incident. Be careful out there folks. Very thankful that Joe will be able to ultimately tell the tale, himself.

Thanks geof, Mitchel and Joe. I agree Mitchel, only about 15% is detecting time on this holiday. This morning was early am when everyone else was still asleep. Cold and showery here today so the girls have made the most of it - manicure, pedicure and now they’re off getting a massage. Another beach jaunt this evening for an hour if the weather holds out. And we had the jewellery checked. The diamonds in the bracelet are not real. The pearl in the other bracelet is real but it is a freshwater one. Still happy though 😀

Joe,My prayers go out to you and a special thanks to those who helped our friend.

I have found a large number of gold jewellery but have only found a small number of non 9 & 18K ones plus a few 22K rings. So if you get the same ratio as me you will be more than happy when you get the 9,18 & 22K rings, best of luck. Gold Hallmarks • .999 or 999 - 99.9% gold - 24 karat • .916 or 916 - 91.6% gold - 22 karat (917 is used too for 22 karat gold) • .833 or 833 - 83.3% gold – 20 karat • .750 or 750 - 75.0% gold - 18 karat (18ct 18kt 18k) European market. • .585 or 585 - 58.5% gold - 14 karat (14kt 14k) European market. • .417 or 417 - 41.7% gold - 10 karat (10kt 10k) United States market. • .375 or 375 - 37.5% gold - 9 karat (9ct 9kt 9k) Australian market term is 9ct for 9 carat. • .333 or 333 - 33.3% gold - 8 karat (minimum standard for Germany after 1884) The marking V20 14k means that the article is made with 14 karat rolled gold. The V20 mark specifically refers to the volume of total weight of the article that is comprised of 14k gold. In this case 1/20 of the total weight is 14 karat gold. Rolled gold is a very similar process to gold filled.

100 % Yep, it is so easy digging at the beach it is just easier to dig everything. One of my last targets today was a rough 15 and there was a little iron grunt too. Thought it would probably be a bottle top but dug it anyway. Glad I did... V20 14k so it’s rolled gold and doesn’t weigh much but it’s gold! Patchy signal as was bloody deep. Some costume jewellery as well... and a special little bracelet that is either a $70 replica or a 10k genuine article. Considering where we are the genuine article is a real possibilty 😳 Day 3, session 1 was a cracker.

Just saw couple of Turkish resellers on Facebook saying that it has iron reject 🤔

Got out for a little while today before the bad weather coming. This 800 is a button monster! 10 buttons.

I hope you're up a detecting soon Joe. Knowing you, you'll probably invent a new wet suit with a heater for your next hunt!

I talked with Dilek about six months ago and she told me “ the name has been chosen, but announcing it would give the impression it was near release and it is not” end of quote.

I'm glad you are easing back into it. Metal detecting can be a struggle as one gets older, especially the getting down and up when retrieving finds. But it is what a lot of people need to do. Lots of slow walking, and that getting up and down will help hold or build critical strength there. Slow but sustained activity like this is what it is all about as one ages, and the prime directive becomes "keep moving!"

The problem is that the sites are well known. The trick is finding sites that are unknown

Still finding gold in Australia, Rasheed. Not as common as it once was, but it's a big place. Still much new ground to explore - -

I think it will not provide anything because the stains and gold-producing lands have been cleaned by the giant pocket X-series gold detectors. As well as the Gold Monster 1000, as well as the legendary device GBZ 7000, if the Minelab 6000 detector does not exceed the previous one in terms of depth and sensitivity, it will not offer anything new Question: Are there people still finding gold in the spots produced in the United States or in Australia? We in Saudi Arabia go to well-known gold sites and we find only a few grams.

Well done so far. More to come Adam. If the family can live without you keep detecting but some of the memories at the beach with family are more precious than the detector finds. Mitchel

Great finds! Good on you! I knew the gold would eventually turn up for you! Third day's the charm! Literally! And you already have a lovely hand model to show off, and keep, all your finds!🤣 👍👍

Prayers to you Joe, relieved to hear you were rescued and are recovering. May you heal quickly and are able to get back to the hunt soon.

Finally, my dream tray. I hope it's compatible with my old plates.

The word is around 6k US. I will be on the preorder list next week then I will be able to tell for sure.

Thanks. Felt good but next day was all couch! Little by little.

Thanks everyone. I will be trying my best to get out. I just sat on the ground quite a few times taking the middle of a farm field all in again. Been too long.

It looks to me (definitely not sure) that the third digit is a 3. According to the Red Book there was a change in diameter starting in 1837. It's a small change -- from 38-39 mm (apparent poor quality assurance of dies for the early years??) to 37.5 mm. There was a change in the bust design at the same time but that also was subtle. Some here who have done more research may be able to give more clues. A coin from the first half of the 19th Century is a nice checkmark in anyone's finds ledger, even in this condition. The site where you found this could be hiding some silver coins, too. Hope you get a chance to get back there.

Thanks. Felt good to get out a little bit. I cannot see the date but here is a closer look.

If your using the 800, most caps should give a slight iron grunt that you can discern and skip! Although they can mask a good target! Beer caps and lost items naturally go together, especially at the beach! Aluminum screw caps are near impossible to eliminate, without a chance of missing a good target! Pull tabs can be discerned to some extent, but they usually fall right next to nickels 13-14, and also some gold rings! And there are many miscellaneous targets that are hard to eliminate, without the chance of missing something good! I've found that, by the the time you spend minutes trying to decipher a target, you could have dug two or three more targets, and know for sure! I usually only get picky when my knee's and/or back can't take the "dig everything" mode! Keep at it! There's gold waiting for you somewhere! Enjoy!👍👍

One of the main problems with the Equinox is the grip, more to the point your hand wanting to slip up the grip to the screen all the time. Hence you tend to hold the grip quite tightly trying to prevent this from happening which can be tiring after a while. In comparison the Simplex grip is more ergonomically correct with the notch below the screen preventing hand slippage resulting in a much more relaxed hand grip. I do see a lot of people with lower shafts near fully extended when it is maybe not so necessary (depending on how tall you are), personally I prefer a shortened shaft closer to my feet vs being extended out a fair way from my body. If I can get a detector to effectively hang off my arm using the cuff strap and with the grip loosely held, then I know it can be swung comfortably - essentially an extension of my arm. Same for the Deus S-stem, the balance and lack of weight is so good that I never need to run with a cuff strap - in fact it being a bit nose heavy tends to work in its favour. The pivot point transfers the weight to the forearm via the cuff, and the grip only needs a moderately tight hand to keep it in check. I guess that is why I still prefer s-bend shafts that have the main shaft in-line with your arm - most the detector weight/swing is controlled through the stronger muscles in your upper arm and shoulder vs relying on the hand/wrist. As for counter-balances, the jury is still out for me on adding extra weight for balance vs total swung weight. Much like some saying that the CTX is perfectly balanced, though there is still a fair chunk of weight to swing/control for extended periods. What Minelab should have offered is a universal control box with either an optional straight or S-stem shaft, similar to that provided with the Vanquish. Though it is pretty hard to please all involved with so many personal preferences, having such options available should appeal to a wider user base.

Day 2. Same back beach. Got there for a real low tide. A good slope to the beach with a gutter at the bottom and then flat for 30 or so metres before sloping, deeper and the low tide waves. The gutter = not a single target. There may be quite a depth of sand, I’m not sure. There are rocks either side of the life guard flags and tried around quite a few of them to see if anything had got hung up but nope, nothin’! Back to the dry sand right at the top of the beach and at least there were targets but not as many as yesterday. 20 cent piece, ring pulls, random crap and then 😳 925 means gold plated silver I think. Wife thinks it’s a real pearl as it is rough between the teeth. Fake is smooth apparently 🤷‍♂️ Daughter claimed it pretty quick! Happy with day 2 😀

First out for the year, found a spot that has cuts that are over my head. I know how they got there but best I hold on that for now. One thing for sure targets are every where, on the top shelf, down the slope, and in the bottom. Just have to wait for a better tide so I can hunt the whole bottom and not worry about sliding down the slope. Most targets are shallow. First gold was maybe 12 inch's? Going to be interesting to see how long this spots stays intact-ed. I knew something was up and one reason I took the Excalibur for I had no clue on what I would be walking into. I am debating on taking the 8 inch on the "AQ" next trip. Seems to be no trash at all.... Three hour hunt, 1916 Class Ring and 1929 Class ring. 4 Silvers, which are eaten bad by the brackish waters of the Chesapeake Bay. Water is just dipping into the high 30's, full hunt I was toasty but Need to make some adjustments to my gloves, left glove is like wearing a sock.. No mobility.

I know there's a long and old thread discussing this topic and other Equinox ergonomics but I decided not to bury this post there. In the last few months I've had some minor issues with the elbow on my swing arm ("tennis elbow" according to my doctor) but worse, recently I've been having wrist pain on the same arm. I don't know if the latter is related to detecting but it reminded me of the above linked discussion (and others) about S- vs. straight-shafts. I don't know if the mod I now describe is new. (After 2 years in the users' hands I would have thought not, but don't recall it on this site, anyway.) Here's a picture of the almost finished garage mod: In a nutshell, I've replaced the two lower sections of the Equinox shaft with the two lower sections of the Minelab X-Terra shaft. Now I'll start at the bottom and work my way up, describing the differences. Coil to shaft attachment: Surprisingly (because it seems like Minelab changes dimensions, etc. on every new detector) the gap between the ears is almost a perfect fit. It seems to be slightly looser with this mod, but that may be simply due to wear on the gaskets. I measured the shaft's widths and they are very close, possibly about 0.005 inches (~0.1 mm) different. Different gaskets or just a metal or plastic shim could tighten things up, but for now I'm not going to do that. Next is the screw/bolt and nut. The X-Terra had a nominal 1/4 inch diamter bolt while the Eqx is larger, (I think it's 8 mm, slightly larger than the SAE 5/16 inch). Again, until I find out otherwise I'm not going to be concerned about this as the smaller bolt goes through both parts just fine. Lower shaft section composition: The Eqx has a carbon fiber lower shaft section whereas the X-Terra has an aluminum shaft with a plastic extension/insert for the coil attachment section. I did a quick test-garden check and the mod didn't appear to give any deterioration in performance. 5 in. deep penny and 6 in. deep US nickel, in moderately mineralized soil, I could turn gain down to 5 and still (barely) hear both in Park 1, recovery speed = 5, Iron Bias F2 = 5. Again, at this point good enough for me. Middle shaft section: This is the S-section. The smaller diameter of this part is why you can't use the Equinox's lower section -- its diameter is too large to mate with the X-Terra S-section. Middle shaft section (X-Terra) to upper shaft section (Equinox) mating: This is where things get a bit more complicated. The O.D. of the X-Terra shafts is right at 3/4 (0.75) inch whereas the Equinox is ~0.78 in. This 0.03 (~3/4 mm) difference is not acceptable as is. I used 0.0015 in thick copper tape to build up the X-Terra shaft. The tape's adhesive adds some thickness as well. I needed 15 inch length of tape for a complete wrap to make up the difference. (Note: I'm going to add another equivalent wrap above the alignment pin as well, but as of now -- shown in the photo -- I only have the one wrap.) Next, note that the X-Terra has two alignment pins compared to the single one for the Equinox. Turns out they are 90 degrees out-of-phase. In addition, the pin size (and thus hole diameter required) is different, this time slightly larger on the X-Terra. I'm going to drill two opposing holes in the upper Equinox shaft. Again it appears that the X-Terra was made to SAE dimensions and a 1/4 inch hole is the right size. To make sure I don't get more hole than I need, and to avoid the sloppy 'triangular' hole that standard jobber drill bits tend to make in thin sheet metal, I've ordered a 1/4 inch reamer from Amazon for the job. Weight difference: The X-Terra lower sections and the attachement bolts & nuts are 80 g. (~2 2/3 oz. or ~0.2 lb) heavier than the equivalent Equinox pieces. I assume this is due at least in part to the carbon fiber composition but the tubing (and other pieces) may also be contributing. Potential concerns: I start by pointing out that I'm not a beach/water hunter. Apparently the drag, etc. in that form of detecting puts more mechanical stress on the connections and parts in general. In particular, drilling two more holes for the alignment pins in the upper section shaft (which unfortunately are located right at the same location as the already present hole) will result in a weakening of the shaft there. I don't think that will be an issue for me, but water hunters (who apparently prefer straight shafts anyway) could be scared away from this mod. I suppose one might be able to buy a replacement upper section from Minelab.... Those holes are the only thing that keeps this mod from being purely 100% reversible and assuming they don't result in future breakage, I have the best of both worlds. (Of course it helps to have an X-Terra sitting around collecting dust!)

Welcome back......baby steps for now. You'll work your way up to running later!

I can probably let you know by the weekend, need his ok first. But several dealers should get it in soon (my own guess)

Hello DB, Great finds!! I think half the battle is just getting over the depression factor, and forcing yourself to get out there to do something you enjoy! Once you have done that (and you have), it gets easier! The mind can have fantastic power over the body's limitations! It's also a great help to read about, and talk to, people with the same desire to detect! I know it helps to motivate me to get out the door!😁 Keep up the good work! We are all interested in seeing some more goodies! 👍👍

Per Steve’s GPX 6000 info page, the controls and settings support a menu option for: Double-D Modes - EMI Cancel (Default) / Conductive Ground Cancel So I suspect ML will offer DD coils as well, perhaps having different form factors from the Mono coils offered in this particular bundle.

S shaft puts the center of gravity towards the upper part of your hand and not on the lower part of your wrist. Balance is the next issue where a nose heavy detector will put the forces towards your elbow. Last is the angle of the grip where your hand should be in a relaxed position and still have control. Be nice if someone made a universal adjustable shaft system.

Steve, the weight is an axle socket that weighs about a pound. I can probably get away with a little less at the end of shaft as the coil “floated” a little too much there as compared to the same socket attached further forward under the cuff. Either way, the weight needed at point A to offset the coil increase weight at B is roughly double. All of that extra weight is felt at C. Which is all then felt through the arm at each joint as more weight. Intuitively I feel the counterbalance may help someone suffering from wrist, forearm, and maybe elbow pain trying to use those muscles to force the coil to be level at an unbalanced state. I feel this is were your counterbalance concept would help most. I wish it worked for me. I feel that pain or discomfort further up the arm or shoulder may be more related to the angle the detector is being held. Shortening the shaft helped bring my arm closer. I think the s-bend will allow My arm to be closer to vertical while the S-bend effectively moves the coil forward again(and so perhaps would offset coil ears like the F75). I feel more weight hanging off an aching shoulder joint with a closer to vertical arm would certainly not help regardless of balance. That’s my theory anyway so wanting to try other solutions. It may also prove ineffective for my issue. I certainly don’t want to be tethered to a harness with a less than 3lb detector and wireless headphones.

Everyone has pretty much covered the basics here! That should be plenty to keep you busy that week! Hopefully you will have some eroded areas to get past the softer building beach sand! I generally run 5 tones, beach 1 on dry sand, and beach 2 in wet sand and water! But try different programs like the gold 1 or 2! Alot depends on sand composition! I run the highest sensitivity i can, with no interference! And dig it all! Look and feel for firmer sand in the wet, and shell or rocks lines! Lead and gold are obviously good bedfellows! Generally if you are finding can slaw, and pull tabs, (light items), that will be the high tide line! The good targets will be more toward the water line, and may be sorted by a combination of weight and shape, on the ocean side! Any combination of items can be found in dry sand! Very little to no sorting happens there! The bay side with no real tidal and/or current action, can find targets almost anywhere that they were dropped! They will move very little, just get covered! (Sort of like dry sand)! Very different than the active tidal/current side! Good Luck! And enjoy the trip!!👍👍

If the number of controls had anything to do with how well a detector works, the Whites V3i would be the worlds most powerful metal detector.

In the thread about possible design improvements for the Equinox series, I said the breakdown of the three-piece shaft could be improved. It currently has two reasonably short upper parts, and one excessively long lower rod. To improve packing, the upper rods need to be a bit longer, and the lower rod shortened. Having done this exercise on my Fisher F75 shaft, I turned my design ideas to the Eqx. The upper rod obviously has the 'height', due to the control pod and lower stand, and this limits the compactness to 28cm / 11" in that direction. This is slightly larger than the coil, which measures 10.5" on its shortest diameter. The middle rod will pack diagonally, meaning it can be about 7cm / 2.5" longer than the upper rod. I also decided that the insertion overlaps of the lower rod, and the middle rod, could be reduced by a total of about 2.5cm / 1". So my design ended up with the upper shaft 2.5cm / 1" longer; the middle rod 2.5cm / 1" longer with 12mm / 0.5" less insertion; and the lower rod shortened by 80mm / 3.1" , with 12mm less insertion. Practically speaking, the upper rod was extended at the rear end with a bit of lathe work, with two new holes for the elbow-cup. The handgrip was moved back 2.5cm / 1", needing one new hole drilling. The middle rod was a bit more complex. I machined an extender piece that adds 33mm to the top end of the rod, trimmed 8mm off the insertion section, and moved the pip location hole 5mm towards the rod end. This makes the rod effectively 38mm longer, but only physically 25mm longer. Trimming 80mm off the carbon rod and making the new pip-hole 12mm closer to the end completes that job. The end result is the detector will pack in a 47cm x 28cm ( 18.5" x 11" ) space, see pic below. Individual rod lengths are: Upper = 47cm ; Lower & middle = 53.5cm ( 18.5" & 21" ) I ultimately intend making a new upper rod, with a bend below the handgrip, offsetting the coil and lower rod sections, which will deal with the twisting issue that's been previously discussed here and elsewhere.

Welcome Steveo, That's the way to do it! I wish you lots of luck with the new detector! And much peace in the great outdoors! Be safe! And keep us posted!👍👍

BTW!!! I'll be headed South from the Chico, CA area in a few days and I'm up for some detecting pretty much anywhere in the state south of here if any other honest detectorists are interested in a meet up! Was thinking about checking out this Ruck a Chucky place on the way down, but I am always up for a sufferfest to explore somewhere new. PROSPECTING is the name of the game I play. So please drop me a pm, I've my detector and batteries charged 😉

I think this is an ancient snorkel used by shamans to travel to distant lands, circa 1978AD. Legend has it that these travelers often suffered extreme hunger, paranoia, and appreciation for a local musical troupe called Los Muertos Agradecidos.