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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/2021 in all areas

  1. It’s exciting when a new detector emerges, none more so than a new top notch gold getting machine from Minelab and the new GPX 6000 is as exciting as it gets. Just a little reminder about the virtues of the GPZ/14” an older brother he may be a little thick in the middle but this heavyweight can still sniff out a few crumbs in the pounded terrain in the desert of Gold Basin Arizona, from a few recent hunts.
    10 points
  2. Nothing special today but still productive. I'm thinking the steamboat unloaded passengers on one side (the high pilings), and cargo on the other (ramp). Hacked around the "passenger" side but didn't go too far out. The sand got kinda loose, and once gave way. There was a 26 ID object in the pilings, dug out out with my pinpointer and trusty composite shovel, when I got it out it ID'd a 31, it's on the left in the trash photo: It's just some sort of aggregate rock, haven't done anything with it yet. The license plate was a 36, again I thought I'd hit the jackpot. 😵 Even the Comet can lid was a solid 22 😀 The finds: Odd brass object, some kinda strainer or lamp thing? Here's the back: 1892 IHP, it was totally encrusted, but carefully peeling away the black brought forth what was left. Unidentifiable wheat penny, no date. Came out as is. IHP was a 19/20, wheat was a 21/22. There is a small area all these coins are all coming from, I'll keep hitting it. I think it may be where people were swimming. Might rake or dig it down a bit to see if there are any silvers there.
    8 points
  3. Got out this morning for a 3+ hour all water hunt. Targets were few and far between but the 14K, 9.4 gram gold ring couldn't hide from the AQ. All settings were at preset except the delay which I ran around 10. I hunt in all metal and some of the iron was questionable with double blips but I dig it all anyway. The ring was down a couple of deep scoops but was very loud and repeatable. The open .925 silver earring gave a broken signal. Thanks for looking. Bob K
    7 points
  4. Glad you like the little blue beastie Norvic. 😃 Couple of things about the 6000, one is it is a little more prone to EMI especially if you tilt the coil out of level plane, this is because the timings are a really wide bandwidth. Obviously in the terrain your working titling the coil is the go-to mode so like the 5000 up in your country you just need to learn to live with it. Secondly I am not a fan of the inbuilt speaker so advise serious operators to look into a low latency Bluetooth receiver arrangement and go wireless. Avantree low latency APTX receiver I have tested the Avantree unit and it performs extremely well on the 6000, you can then go from the receiver to a booster like the B&Z or Steelphase then out to a single or dual speaker or just plug in your favourite headphones like the wired Bose Noise Cancelling buds (most Bose BT buds are not APTX BTW). Basically you treat the Receiver unit like the WM12 for the GPZ. The 6000 also takes a little while to settle down after turn-on and performing its noise cancel so be patient as the threshold starts to settle, you will notice the threshold sounds extremely dominant after first turning on and there will be a fair few spurious false signals as you sweep the coil. After a noise cancel the threshold will also sound very dominant then slowly settle down. My usual method is to turn the unit on with the coil 100mm up and held flat and let the detector stabilise then I go and lean it against a tree as I get my gear organised this way it’s slowly settling down/warming up as you prepare. When I’m ready to go detecting I’ll check the threshold with the coil held flat and maybe perform another noise cancel if its a little unstable then walk off as it settles down. Hope this helps JP
    7 points
  5. Personally, I am not a fan of cross-talk and arguing publicly on this forum. However, the original poster seems to prefer this form of communication. Several of us have taken time out of our day and tried to offer suggestions to the original poster and have given him sound tips like just starting with the default Beach settings and gradually adjusting from there to fit his situation. Basically, I don't see this process going any further as the original poster is going to do whatever he likes eventually, blame his equipment and us or anyone else that tries to help him after he has asked for help to address his problems. I have yet to read two simple words at any point in any of his posts for the help that has been offered during this topic or from ones he started or joined in the past, which are................Thank you. So, I'm done.
    5 points
  6. I can assure all forum readers it is much more stable to use the GPX6000 with the headphones wired or wireless or use a wireless speaker arrangement rather than use the inbuilt speaker. JP
    4 points
  7. While I wait for availability of the 10x5 Coiltek, I decided to make myself feel better by constructing an interim solution. Good ergonomics, runs quiet and stable, great depth and separation. Almost like it was designed in cooperation with the Equinox for optimal operation. 😉 ~Tim
    4 points
  8. That odd thing is part a lantern where the wick comes out. My reasoning for calling it a lantern is I don’t see the metal arms that come up to hold a glass that a lamp has . Chuck
    4 points
  9. Ok have spent 12 hours behind the 6000, on old patches (our wet will not let me go further) Like all ML detectors the 6000 is Magic, but then I say that about any detector or coil that puts weight in my pocket, thus I give my review because history is in the past and we are looking forward if you don`t agree stop reading and bug off. At this early stage I list the great features, tis light, no menu just a simple matter to press a button say go from normal to difficult, to change sensitivity, to switch from no threshold to threshold, to change operation channel etc top time saving features. Does it get gold? You bet it does, remarkable sensitivity/depth on "micrograms" and stability and it has found its first patch, in amongst the high grass on a 45deg slope on the bank of a small wash. Am I impressed..... you bet but that is normal for each ML new detector for me since year dot. Only thing at this early stage I miss is no manual GB to give the final cleanup of patches. Does it compete with my ZX combos...... no way it complements it.
    3 points
  10. (Raphis, I've singled out your post as a good jumping off point, not as something I disagree with.) I see these more complicated detectors -- lots of settings available -- as multiple detectors. Many detectors, especially those from the past, have few settings to change (and potentially confuse). Asking someone else for their settings has the advantage of a good starting point. Andy Sabisch's book has several example settings which he got from experienced (at the time) ML Equinox users from multiple continents. Those are helpful starting points. Yes, some people take such things too literally and fail to realize they are suggestions of things to try, not to lock onto. I know an extremely successful detectorist (I base that on his old coin finds collection) who let me try out his White's V3i. He was giving me all kinds of dos and don'ts which I didn't really appreciate/need but tolerated. I asked him about different settings and he said "oh, I just leave them in the defaults -- I don't need all that fancy adjustment". Then he said something else telling: "I probably should have just stayed with my White's DFX." No argument from me that detecting can be complicated, particularly in some sites and with certain goals. Not everyone wants to go that deeply into the endeavor. As long as everyone (super experienced user included) understands that everyone has different expectations, pain tolerance levels, time to invest, etc. then things flow more smoothly. I'm one of those in-between detectorists, not deeply experienced but wanting to "be like Mike". The 'Mikes' on this site seem to almost exclusively use 50 tones when dry land detecting for coins and relics. I tried it once -- went back to 5 tones. I tried it again later -- went back to 5 tones. I tried it a 3rd time -- back to 5 tones. Finally I realized I wasn't getting anywhere and was effectively (after the first couple attempts) wasting my time. I emphasize I, me, my. It's OK not to emulate the Mikes. (I also find some of the arguments of why 50 tones is 'better' misleading. But if a person's brain can handle it then it certainly makes sense. The more useful data available, the better the chances of identifying what is worth spending time digging.) I don't write this to counter the advice others have generously given in this thread, but rather to attempt to bring things to a middle ground (so to speak). I'm one of those who appreciates the advice of others and seek it often. I'm also one of those who realizes that the advice may not be for me. And when I give advice/suggestions and it seems to go in one ear and out the other, I can accept it and move on. I'm no worse having attempted to help one person and for whatever reason, not having accomplished that. The advantage of a forum is that maybe it helped someone else, including the advisor.
    3 points
  11. Today we went picking strawberries but yesterday I went back to the same general area where I found the Franklin and two quarters. I wet sand hunted one direction and then went back to dry sand with the 11" coil because there are some areas with impossible EMI because of ground cable. Very little in the wet and tide sands as I expected. Just some deep pennies. I worked the area completely where I found the half with a grid pattern and found the wheat. Somewhere within my scooping I got the 1957 dime and I got the little .925 silver ring. This actually sets up many, many one hour hunt boxes for when there is not much on the wet beaches. These are the total finds. These are the best. This us the dime before and after.
    3 points
  12. That soft mud is a problem, reminds me of the river I hit here and unless there is some recent erosion from a heavy rain the stuff sits deep. Couple issues I have here is the soft mud often has a ton of new debris layers like leaves and more often than not has aluminum mixed it. If there are any bends to the river try poking around the lead side of the inside of the bank. You should see some stones and even hit gravel at some point. The gravel bed is probably where stuff will settle down to. Much of the low lying areas on the river here have bog iron so your depth from the machine will go from easy 10-12 to 2-4. If you see bog iron which usually looks like a rusty algae looking layer, switch to all metal mode and just listen for anything then give the area a scrape or light scoop and the target should start to reveal itself. Good to have iron audio on in those parts to keep track what is going on.
    3 points
  13. A place on the river like that will have a little of everything from years of use, including some nice surprises . One you will not like is quicksand. Be mindful of soft ground underfoot. I know from experience. Check for targets a bit down stream also.
    3 points
  14. I found this coin years ago in an old park in NY. It is just a bit larger than a dime and just a bit smaller than a penny. It is silver... any ideas? Thanks Bob
    2 points
  15. I agree wholeheartedly, and thanks (sincerely) for this advice and others you've given. We all have prejudices (not necessarily a negative word, as it's typically portrayed), some positive and others not so. We are all products of our past as well as limited by our raw capabilities. Site, detectorist, detector -- in that order. Most important (for everyone, IMO): find good/better sites. Next in importance, improve your detecting skills. The right detector is important, too, but how one defines 'right' is as varied and the sites and detectorists.
    2 points
  16. Hi GB......Yes, a successful hunter’s settings could be a good starting point for other th’ers who have the same machine and are willing to try any suggestions that are offered to them....likewise, there’s always a multitude of forumites willing to help another th’er out with detector issues....That’s what a moderately high % of detecting forums’ content is about...trying to minimize the learning curve of a machine.....Yet, no matter how much online help is given to some th’ers, for various reasons, the help given doesn’t “sink in” with the th’er.....it’s like the old adage, “A picture is worth 1000 words”.....it’s the time out in the field; comparing signals with other hunters who have the same machine as you; it’s the trial and error of settings at sites in your own hunt area....it’s breaking old/bad habits from previous machine experience....these are the most important prerequisites a th’er will need to acquire to be more confident/successful. These traits take time to acquire...there’s no quick fix....some (“naturally gifted” ??) are able to acquire these traits much quicker (days/weeks) while others take much longer, (weeks/months)....Then there are some that need more time to acquire the necessary skills (beyond detector settings), but unfortunately give up too soon (too difficult), while others persist on (never say die attitude). A th’ers emotion/passion for the hobby, along with a willingness to never give up will lead them to a more productive/confident experience with whatever machine(s) has brought them “repeated” success during a multitude of hunts.
    2 points
  17. Hey GB, Truthfully I post my ID's because I know you are interested in them 🙂 and while I'm a prolific poster, I hope it benefits. If not y'all let me know. At low tide there's some beach, at high tide nothing. Everything I find is wet daily. Both Chase and I have searched the high ground, he was lucky enough to find a silver quarter. I think the heavier coins may be deeper than I can detect, this area flooded a couple of years ago and it really messed things up.
    2 points
  18. I found them with a 4000 but have had my current 4500 and monster over the spot to no avail.
    2 points
  19. You have a great spot to hunt. Unfortunate for the soft sand. Don't step in any quick sand. A scoop can come in very helpful. I was hunting in a lake and one spot had a big hole. One time I stepped into it by mistake. I used my scoop to help pull me across it and I didn't go under.
    2 points
  20. I've been thinking of asking about just that, thanks. I want to get the most depth I can as I know heavier coins are out there. I always run the detector in all metal, I had sensitivity at 22, Beach 2 for the salt and black muck that makes my carrot unusable, although it does work in some places. Should I go higher? Beach 2 is totally quiet, no interference or stray tones as high as 24 sensitivity. I almost wish there was some gravel, there are virtually no stones anywhere in the river here. It would make for more stable footing.
    2 points
  21. It's not a falsing issue. The black sand is being detected and giving you a signal due to its iron content. The ID that the detector is giving for the black sand is correct. You can't make those signals go away without drastically losing depth. The only settings available to work with for black sand seem to be Ground Balance, Sensitivity, Recovery Speed, and Iron Bias. I would bury some targets and see what combination of those settings gets the best depth. You can choose to hear the low tones or to not hear them. It's up to you. I prefer to hear them so that I know when iron or black sand is present. I have the tone volume turned way down so that they are just in the background and not bothersome, and make adjustments depending on the amount of low tones that I hear. I don't try to make the low tones disappear. I simply adjust the settings to get the best depth for each situation. Target size and conductivity may also play a role in the choice of settings.
    2 points
  22. With Equinox on Allmetal in a heavily mineralized terrain you see too much signal from the field / -VDI/, which is also transferred to the calculation of the VDI target. -Setting Discrimination to 0,, and even better to + 1, + 2- eliminates this problem. . The setting of the recovery speed to the value 6-7 .., and also the setting of Iron bias F2, to 0 best... or F2 to 3max/eq 800/ .. is clearly important.
    2 points
  23. Rick and Lunk, thanks very much I try my best to emulate what you guys do, Rick we were just talking about you and your good deeds... your generosity and how you conduct yourself is an example for everyone to strive for.
    2 points
  24. I remember the OP of this thread (he used the same username years ago on our local California forum (Kinzlis CA forum). He was just learning his new CTX for beach hunting back then, and made similar quirky posts on that forum, trying to gain knowledge...I’m not mentioning this as a negative to the OP, but I believe this is his way of trying to learn a new machine....don’t think it’s the best way though, but he has been consistent/persistent all these years (in his own way). Along these same lines of “proper detector settings” for a particular site, I can’t even estimate how many times over the years I would receive a private msg from various forumites after I made an old coin post about what my settings on my machine were.....Someone else’s Detector settings may not be the correct settings for your ground/hunting environment. Many just want an “easier way“ or a path of least resistance in becoming successful in their endeavor to be a highly confident/successful treasure hunter ...it’s a typical human trait....we can’t knock anyone for wanting an easier way to success, but in reality, not many endeavors in life come that easy......In order to find elusive targets (or sometimes any diggable/keeper target), especially in trash (Ferrous/non-ferrous), heavily mineralized ground conditions, or areas with moderate, varying EMI, will take more than “proper” machine settings....in other words, machine settings are only one part of the equation for success. So many times, I would share my machine’s settings with various members across the country, but that typically wouldn’t lead to an increase in their keeper finds. Coil control/speed, a very good ear for actual targets in noisy environments (noise tolerance), along with spending many hrs out in the field trialing/erring various settings along with other acquired detecting skills for most challenging sites is the only way to become a better hunter who’s brimming with the confidence of finding keeper targets, even before arriving at their hunting site. I’ve seen many hunters never able to become comfortable with a new machine for various reasons they cannot fathom, and go back to their trusty machine they’ve grown used to for many years. Sometimes a new machine will just click with a new user, other times it won’t.
    2 points
  25. AFN, the headphones have their own two button volume control. MN that Al Xter is a bit alright but I`ve found manual GB is a feature that helps especially in benign river and creek sand for depth, also another option for patch clean up along with Bogenes. Which reminds me the no audible threshold (Bogenes) on the 6000 is pretty good, on all of the positive undisturbed signals I switched to it registered, audio was a little clipped but definite, I used the speaker not the H/ph so I expect on those very slight threshold changes it will not register. Those Aventrees that Lunk found are starting to sound like the go, initially I thought you needed to put the ear buds in the ear but not necessarily so apparently MN are they the Avantrees you use with the Equinox?
    2 points
  26. Norvic, This reminds me of the Bose Sunglasses I saw. I wonder if Avantree makes sunglasses. I have some Avantree's I use with my Equinox. I'm glad you like the 6000. I'm certain that any detector that automatically adjust to the ground will find its place in the nugget world. A GB2 needs constant manual adjustment. That becomes automatic to some people. Some people can't master it. I've never used a GB2 but I have a GB Pro. If you take the human out of it and make a computer determine the settings (a little bit of AI) for smoothness to ignore the ground it will do a better job than most of us could ever do. Mitchel
    2 points
  27. Here are some more pictures of the break. From what I see, there was salt water intrusion around the pins that were supposed to be sealed in epoxy. I hope that this was an isolated case and not the norm. The broken shaft was received by FT today (April 29) at 10:23 AM. I have yet to receive my replacement, nor have I heard anything more from FT about it. I would have thought that the replacement would have been sent out on Monday also. I was in contact with Russ, Felix and Alexandre all on Monday and nothing since. On a good note, I got gold ring #7 with my Equinox yesterday.
    2 points
  28. I have found very small pin head size gold with the Z but wondering with the introduction of the 6000 what I have missed. Have read about the successes of the 10 Inch x-coil by Simon (phrunt) and Dave ( davsgold) and positive x-coil comments from jr (beatty)and AraratGold on this and other forums along with comments on the X-coil Facebook site. Was also influenced by the test comparisons between the standard Z coil and the NF 12 ( have one) and the potential wait time for a 10 Inch NF coil, so have purchased a 10 Inch X-coil, its in the mail (DHL). X-Coils give a detailed DIY on how to make a patch lead and in a past life working in Computers/Telecommunications, I could make up one myself but prefer to get a pro to do the job for $150Aud.
    2 points
  29. I just weighed it...3.1 grams. Doesn't sound too authentic if all those shown are only 1.3 to 1.4g.
    2 points
  30. Reverse image search. Sometimes it's great, sometimes it produces bupkus. 🤪 You posted a great photo so you got great results! I've used it a few times to identify stuff. Google Lens. Runs out of the Google app on my phone.
    2 points
  31. Looks like a membership drive. Gotta be a member to get the secret instructions. I've followed PLP since they were founded and contributed for many years. They have several dedicated members who I'm sure have recreational miners interest at heart. I've just got to ask though - does anyone know of a single court case they have won? I support Mountain States Legal Foundation now. They have pursued and won several major mining cases for small miners.
    2 points
  32. Tis some help there I have an Avantree receiver/transmitter combo and I `ll try the receiver but wires hanging around turn out to be a hindrance rather than a bonus around foliage, so basically I`m on the hunt or will construct a clip on shoulder rechargeable speaker with a BT module enclosed.. The EMI I speak of is natural from the sun I suspect as we are going through some pretty heavy current sun atmospheric layer ionization and its effect is similar to distant thunderstorms on both detectors and transceivers, I have found as a HAM/detectorist but I don`t wish to complicate a simple to use detector but very capable detector going any further there.
    2 points
  33. X rated love it, aye there`s a new kid on the block, but that thick in the middle brother only leaves it scraps it seems.
    2 points
  34. I’ve been told a Zsearch order is headed its way UpYonder 😊 which means not much stock to be had in Aussieland for a while. 😞 Pretty frustrating being a dealer in Australia at the moment, it’s the start of our detecting season and the two main hot items of choice, GPX 6000 and Nugget Finder Zsearch, are in constant backorder with a few dribbling through here and there, losing sales is the order of the day as customers scramble all over the country doing the ring around trying to get their hands on product before they head off on their prospecting adventures. It makes it hard to plan your advertising and maintain or develop relationships with your customers to have it all thrown away due to an inability to supply, customers just will not wait if they can source the thing they want clear across the other-side of the country. 😣 The only saving grace is every dealer has exactly the same problem so we all suffer together 😆
    2 points
  35. Sheppo that lightweight mono allows easy scanning of the immediate rugged banks of those creeks and gullies. GC you`ve nailed it, something is different in the way the 6000 handles variable ground, maybe Geosense is more than just a marketing word. I know as I was working grassed wet ground and the sun was rising I had to hit that noise cancel button often to keep that coil working. Beatup, tis easy to like. Gerry`s training has been shortened up but he`ll have plenty of users to offset and keep him busy.
    2 points
  36. Sweign Thanks, I love the 7000 it’s all I really ever use I’ve swung it since the release in 2015 and it is hard to imagine it misses much, guess I’m watching intently on reports for the 6000 (not 600, lol) and waiting on the new nugget finder coil although as the days tic by I’m inching ever closer to just going x-rated... starting to look like the logical choice.
    2 points
  37. This thread reads like a broken record. Some high level advice should you choose to heed it Bklein: Your stubbornness on insisting on using F2=0 due to an overblown fear of target masking on the beach is hindering you. Just saying... If you are going to ask for advice you also need to be honest with yourself and realize you just may have misconceptions, mistaken notions, and are latching on to previously provided bad advice. Once you overcome those hurdles there will be a lot less wasted time on these exchanges. Use of high/max sensitivity, no iron bias, and other mode settings that exacerbate detector instability under challenging conditions such as high trash, EMI, and black sand demonstrate a lack of user finesse in detector setup where less is actually more in terms of performance. They key to knowing your detector is knowing how to appropriately balance the trade off between max detector performance settings and the environmental conditions at the site including ground conditions, EMI, and dealing with trash targets. You really need to simply listen to what these experienced detectorists are telling you and apply the principles rather than constantly questioning their validity and motives. Best of luck to you...
    2 points
  38. Pins are no different on the old Minelab sovereign and Excalibur shafts (set low). I've broke a few of them over a 12 year period but never a Whites. I broke them because of me leaning on them when digging which will cause stress cracks then a eventual fail. Where is my Buddy Dew, that's his number one thing to break.
    2 points
  39. That's a pretty ring. Nice job getting it! Lucky for you - you only found the tooth and not the shark 😄
    1 point
  40. This may have been answered already, but does the 6000 work with any Bluetooth headset? Let’s say I have a Bose or Sony noise canceling headphones, or even AirPods, would those work with this machine? I rigged up my GM24K with a Garrett MS-3 Z-Lynk headphones/transmitter and it worked pretty well, just a bit kludgy. I’d prefer not to have to install a transmitter, or use specialized headphones if I don’t have to.
    1 point
  41. I’m not as stubborn and hardheaded as you think. I’ll for sure try it. All along I’m trying what you guys have said. We good?
    1 point
  42. If there’s gold in the area and you take it slow you’ll find it, good luck.
    1 point
  43. A loooong time ago I worked for an electronics company one of my jobs was making and soldiering wiring harnesses for this small at the time hand held marine radio. I’m fairly decent at soldering, but you are right it’s easy to overheat those fine tiny wires without a real quality solder station and I don’t want to take the chance if I can hire someone who does it everyday. When I need it I’m having your guy do it👍.
    1 point
  44. Looks like the holes for the pins are pretty deep and drilled. Lets see what they come up with, but I would think pinning (and only drilling) on one side would be enough and leave less of a chance of failure at the pin location than there is with holes coming from both sides. Or just epoxy the fitting in the shaft. I have had two Excal coil mounts come loose from the shaft (fell out). I epoxied them back in and neither one has had a repeat.
    1 point
  45. Thanks. Some places I stand I start to sink in, and yes others immediately go down to about 6" when I test them with one foot. Glad I have the long scoop handle, and I keep moving. This is much more difficult than farm or beach hunting. I think I should always wear waders or some kind of steel shank boot. There is a lot of glass and metal in the area.
    1 point
  46. My guess is a Saint Benedict medal. Maybe an older one. They were made in and around 1740
    1 point
  47. Welcome AUG, Well if gold is what your after, you found the right forum. The gold people here will fill you in on anything your missing or want to know. Check out the DP database for a lot of great info, You will be surprised at how much cool stuff is awaiting your discovery. So glad to have you!!!!
    1 point
  48. Welcome PH69, You made it this far, Don't be shy. Tell us a little more about yourself and what you use and detect for most of the time. DP is a great site and full of some awesome people. I'm sure all of us want to see your tag name more than just once or twice. Pretty sure you made a great choice with the forum and certainly I'm looking forward to your questions and posts.
    1 point
  49. That's an amazingly close match F350! Same feather count on the wing edges! Unique find kac!👍👍
    1 point
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